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Limberpine

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Posts posted by Limberpine

  1. On 3/15/2021 at 5:03 PM, mikebse2a3 said:

     

    Are the lights on a dimmer ...?  If so some dimmers types are worse than others at generating rf noise and systems with high gain and high efficiency speakers can reveal the buzz/noise and you might notice it changes depending on where the dimmer level is set at.

     

    Fluorescent lights can also be a noise source as well which systems with high gain and high efficiency loudspeaker can expose as well.

     

    miketn 

    Ding ding ding we have a winner! 

     

    The other night, I was down there listening to the system with my GF and she got up to leave and turned the light off and the noise was drastically reduced. Not gone all together, but noticeable in reduction. We have one dimmer on that circuit and another on the other side of the room on another circuit. So, even if they're off, the system will still be about 12-14ft away from the switches. It would be easy enough to put in a outlet that is dedicated to the stereo, but how much do I need to consider the dimmers and the noise they would cause without even being on the same circuit? 

     

    No floursenct lights. Only leds down there now. 

     

    Too funny, I was JUST about to post what I found. 

  2. 4 hours ago, jjptkd said:

    The servo tech from what I remember was basically in the the amplifier itself, there was a small microchip looking thing glued to the middle of the cone with wires running to circuit on the amp board. My amp was toast so I just cut the wires off the chip and left the chip stuck to the cone.

     

    For testing purposes you would not need to disconnect the chip (assuming it's the same as what was in my sub) just disconnect the woofer inputs from the amp and run wire directly to a separate amp, probably have to be a different input than the stock inputs 

    Okay, so you just put a plate amp in the box and bypassed the servo to which you are happy with the sound with the original woofer? 

  3. 2 hours ago, Khornukopia said:

    I usually enjoy fixing things for the fun of it, but if the cost becomes more than the total value, I consider alternatives like this bargain, Klipsch R-12SW Sale - Page 2 - Subwoofers - The Klipsch Audio Community 

     

     

    Agreed. The box itself just fits into my room so well doubling as a table, so I may try to find a way to just have a new woofer and amp put into the box and go that route, which bet would be around $250-300, but I could also buy the Klipsch one from Costco this weekend and return it if I dont like it. 

     

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  4. Ahhhh! We did do that with the guy from the Speaker shop. He just ran alligator clips right to the speaker posts and played music through it without the Velodyne Amp attached and it played for 5 min with no popping. I will do the same, but for longer and see if there is any popping.

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  5. 37 minutes ago, Khornukopia said:

     

    Well then @Limberpine, if your popping noise is similar to the sound in the video on that other thread, I suspect that the voice coil is rubbing. I have heard that noise from woofers that are mis-aligned, or from woofers that have bottomed out and deformed or partly melted the voice coil. 

     

    I would still connect the sub driver to another amp and test it for diagnostic purposes, to isolate and verify the problem before buying any new parts.

     

    Be aware that the video clip used on that other thread has some deep bass that could drive some amps into clipping and cause severe distortion.

    So, could I connect it to another amp that has and XLR hookup? Or how does one connect it to another amp? It was my understanding that because of the servo you can't use other amps with it, without somehow bypassing the servo. 

     

    Thanks for all of your help so far! 

  6. 4 hours ago, jjptkd said:

    I had a Velodyne FSR-15? servo controlled sub but the amp was built in and went out, I installed a BASH 300 plate amp and it worked / sounded better (to me) than the original. Have to cut the servo wire lead off the cone but wasn't that difficult.

     

    https://www.parts-express.com/Bash-300S-300W-Digital-Subwoofer-Amplifier-300-750?utm_group={group}&msclkid=fd2577c1a5701cfb78bb178afd09eeec&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - All Products&utm_term=4583245519259239&utm_content=All Products

    In this case are you still using the servo? Or bypassing it all together? 

  7. 1 minute ago, Khornukopia said:

     

    Watch the subwoofer cone while playing some music and see if that is suspect. Any contact during play will usually make a popping noise. Next step in the process of elimination, you can bypass the built in amp and wire connect any other amp directly to the sub driver. 

    Will do.

     

    The amp isn't built in though and I'm told to bypass it on this sub, it takes some doing. 

  8. 8 hours ago, Khornukopia said:

    I would take a paper cup that fits over the dust cap where it joins the woofer cone, and gently press down and release, to feel if the voice coil rubs. Unplug the power cord, so the servo circuit doesn't resist you.

    Okay, so I did that and if you push it down fairly far, you can hear some rubbing. But it seems like I have to push it down to the point where it is almost fully stretching out the surround. Just lightly pushing it up and down I don't hear any rubbing.

  9. 1 hour ago, Khornukopia said:

     

    I presume you meant re-foamed. If the cone is off center and the voice coil rubs the magnet or pole piece during play, that can possibly cause a popping noise. I would first check for that.

    Yes, I did mean re-foamed. I will check that. 

     

    Thanks! 

  10. I picked up a used ULD-15 from an estate sale for a song, then had it reformed and it was working beautifully for 3 months, then it struck, the dreaded popping that indicates either the servo or the amp is bad, which from what I understand both are nearly impossible to fix due to the lack of parts to fix them. 

     

    I could put a plate amp in the side of the box and call it good or I could go with something else. Looking for recommendations. 

     

    I'm running this with Tube pre, phono and power amps on my 1978 Klipsch La Scalas.

     

    Thoughts and reccomendations are much appreciated. I'd like to not spend an arm and a leg and I think I'd like to stay with a 15" if I can. 

  11. 5 hours ago, C10 said:

    have you been able to make any progress on the issue?

    I have! I had the Vincent gone through twice and there is nothing wrong with it. I had the Preamp gone through and again nothing wrong with it.  

    There is something amiss with the new wiring in the room (probably not properly grounded somewhere...) because when I have the lights turned on you hear buzzing coming from the amp, regardless of if its the Vincent ST-70, St-35, or my Oliver Sayes 45. So, I leave the light off in the main room and just have lights on in the area behind me. Short of tearing apart the walls and redoing the wiring, that is where I am. 

     

     

  12. Welp sent the Vincent ST-70 back to Will he checked it out and couldn't find anything wrong with it.....then talked to Holger at Erhard, he asked that I send Aretha back and he's checking it out right now, but is not seeing anything wrong with it.

     

    I checked my DAC and don't see any bulging caps or anything that could be wrong with that, I checked my sub controller and dont see any bulging caps there either. Both just visual inspections. 

     

    So I'm at a loss as to what could be causing the weird noises when Aretha is hooked up, cause I dont get the same noises when I have the Schiit SYS hooked up. 

     

    Will wait to get Aretha back to see if the sound persists, if it does I will need to do some more troubleshooting. 

     

    The ST-70 with new tubes sounds rad though. I put new Tung Sol EL34's and a NOS rectifier in it and its sounds really nice. 

     

    Onward to the music! 😁

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