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RickD

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Posts posted by RickD

  1. 7 hours ago, Peter P. said:

    Yeah; surge protectors can fail and I know of no way to test them for reliability. Also, a surge protector is not necessarily a SPIKE protector as well. A quick response time, the ability to handle a high number of Joules (energy) and the ability to clamp the incoming voltage to a safe level, are  other specs to look for on the package. Could be whatever fried his speakers exceeded the capabilities of his surge protector even though the surge protector was within spec.

    Could be the fact that I have a 200 watt per channel McIntosh connected to speakers rated for 100 watts. I don't think the speakers are 'Fried', maybe a capacitor or two on the board that feeds the woofers. ALK suggested 5 amp fuses and I just received them but I can't see that solving the problem. I'll give them a try but if that doesn't work I'll replace the capacitors next.

  2. On 8/29/2023 at 5:48 PM, rmlowz said:

    Furman Elite for the surge protector. It has been great. We have a lot of power outages-surges here in this part of TN.

    I live in North Ga, at Lake Lanier and  thunder storms are common in the late afternoon early evening. I kind of figured I was covered with using a APC ups.  When I get my woofers working again, I'll double up on protection. Maybe a Furman Elite DM plugged into a Tripp Lite ISO Bar. Later in this thread someone mentioned using an ac/ac transformer to block spikes. I'd like to know more about that.

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  3. 1 hour ago, OO1 said:

      joking aside      these ALK's  were connected to  a surge protector and they still failed    ,    buy new crossovers from klipsch , they  can handle transients    

    New crossovers from Klipsch won't work in my modified Khorns. The only thing Klipsch is the cabinets and woofers, I have BMS mid-range drivers, B&C DE-120 tweeter drivers and ALK's Extreme Slope cross overs. I'll be replacing the APC ups with something more substantial and work with Al on getting the situation resolved. No more listening to music during a thunderstorm.

  4. 15 minutes ago, Peter P. said:

    With such small amperage fuses being used, it's a wonder there's a market for all those heavy duty, oversized speaker cables.

     

    Have I just exposed a conspiracy? 😃

    I would have thought that it would be the other way around. With such sensitive speakers, cables only need to be 22 awg. I have a spool of telephone wire around, I'll have to try that some day. That is if I ever get the Khorns working again. Otherwise, I'll just set them down by the curb with a "free" sign on them.

  5. 4 hours ago, Khornukopia said:

     

    I have some AA network Klipschorns with no fuses and I have some AK network Klipschorns with 4 amp woofer fuses. I am curious which K-horns came with 1.25 amp woofer fuses?

     

    I bought my Khorns new in 1987. Original fuses are 1.25a and 2.5a. When I converted to Al's Extreme Slopes, the 2.5a fuses where removed from the circuit path

  6. Al said he quit using fuses on the woofer board, which is why I couldn't find it. I tested the woofers for continuity (good), but not for shorts. All the point to point wiring tests good, so the coils are ok.

    On 8/31/2023 at 7:02 PM, babadono said:

    If it's not there somebody took it out. Mine definitely has one.

     

  7. On 8/29/2023 at 4:02 PM, Khornukopia said:

    Auto parts store should have suitable fuses. They don't need to be exact, considering that most loudspeakers don't even have fuses. 

    Found them on Amazon, auto parts store didn't have 1.25 amp fuses. New fuses didn't get the woofers working. I'll need to fix the cross-overs. They are Al Ks Extreme Slope cross overs.

  8. Auto Parts didn't have them. And foil, that would probably go up in smoke.

     

    I got them on Amazon. Next day delivery. Unfortunately the fuse replacement didn't work. Woofers are still not barking. I think I have a cross over malfunction.

     

    I've got ALK's Extreme Slope cross-over networks and in his documentation he mentioned a socket mounted fuse rated at 1.5 amps. I don't see a fuse on any of the three boards. The only fuse is the 1.25 amp fuse on the back of the cabinet.

    I sent Al Klappenberger an email, hope he replies, because I don't know how to troubleshoot his cross-overs. My amp and dac work.

     

     

  9. Last night I had a power surge that was too much for my APC uninterruptable power supply/ surge protector. As a result my 1.25  amp 1.25" glass fuse was blown on both woofers. Since Radio Shack no longer exists does anyone know where I can buy these fuses? Also I'll be looking for better protection for my system and am open for suggestions. 

     

    Thank-you all.

    • Like 1
  10. On 3/24/2023 at 5:13 PM, Bubo said:

    DAC = Digital to Analog Converter

     

    3 basis designs: DS chip sets, Resistor, and FPGA

    DS Delta Sigma  is the most common and lowest cost to implement

    DS is what most manufacturers use

    DS chip sets are on at least 5th gen, so relatively bug free

    Resistor is considered to be better, I would have to read up on it to see if there is a coherent tech argument for it, then see if I could hear any difference.

    FPGA field programmable gate arrays are programmable chips, they are typically found in industrial controls and weapons systems where speed is everything. They basically replaced custom ASICS application specific integrated circuits.

     

    Does a $1,000 DAC sound better than a $200 one ?

    maybe or maybe not.

     

    For your application, I would go over to the Headfi boards and search your devices for comment threads

    DACs are very competitive, there are probably lots of good choices in the $250 range, probably the current sweet spot for price and performance. Likely all DS chip set based from 3-5 chip manufacturers competing for the business.

    You can buy both  on Amazon $200 and $1000. Buy both and compare, return the one that is lacking.

    • Like 1
  11. On 3/23/2023 at 7:07 AM, Bubo said:

     

     

    Have DACs hit the point where any competent design is pretty good

    given that we are on the 4th or 5th gen of DAC chip sets ?

    The "best sounding DAC" may be only $100 today.

    Can anyone who has been comparison shopping lately tell the difference ?

     

    It pains me to say it, but the SONY $35 DVD player I purchased a few years ago

    sounds pretty good powering my excellent quality Yamaha MX 600 amp and matching pre amp

    running through the same vintage Yamaha EQ with the nice florescent bouncing bars and good SN numbers.

    My comment to myself was and is "SONY does it again".

     

    I'm guessing that the SONY has a $5 Delta Sigma (guess) mass produced chip set. Does TI make these these?

     

    A few years ago, on the Headfi Boards, a group did a DAC bake-off

    Maybe 2 generations ago

    and found that any $500 DAC sounded pretty good, $250 if it was an EMO (Emotiva). They couldn't discern any noticeable difference. These might be today's $100 DACs with most of the cost in the housing and power supply, not to mention the cardboard box which may cost more than the DAC chip set.

     

    Engineering usually makes some improvements, and hundreds of little fixes with each generation. The mass production chip sets usually move in once the kinks are worked out; and, the custom ASICs fade away with the next set of designs.

     

    The DAC guys in Boulder Colorado use FPGA for their DAC processors so they can modify and change the software on the fly with their next set of little fixes and improvements. Might be a little faster processing than the chip sets, how fast is fast enough.

     

    Likewise, each amp represents a series of design choices and trade offs.

    Science, engineering, physics and art aka audio equipment.

    Sounds good on paper is different than sounds good.

     

    Years ago, I read a Motorcycle Bake Off article on the Superbikes

    All current (at the time) road-racing bike riders

    There were all of the technical metrics criteria; acceleration, braking, max speed, quarter mile, turns etc etc etc

    Japanese bikes took the top 6 or 7 slots.

    Ducati (F1 ? ) took I recall #7 slot.

    All riders were asked if they could take one bike home for free, which one would they choose    ?

    Every rider chose the Ducati, because it was a better bike from the users point of view.

    The 1,2,3 finishes at many races bore this out.

    At 160 mph in a turn, you are betting your life on the bike in every turn.

     

    Last fall, I took a friend shopping for a pistol, his first

    He had a finite budget.

    The country store salesman in his late 20s was unusually knowledgeable.

    There was also the more seasoned and knowledgeable 50 something country guy.

    My friend and I had settled on a name brand 2nd tier import in the $500 range.

    I asked the 20 something salesman which one "he would bet his life on",

    he put the import back in the case

    and pulled out a slightly less expensive US made model, "this one"

     

    Any version of the Heresy, is another example of this phenomenon

    they sound good compared to anything for home use volumes.

    Every time I turn on my 1s, I remark to myself they sound great !

    Trust your ears, bring your amp  to an audio store and compare DACs. You can spend a couple of hundred or many thousands. I am currently shopping for a new DAC  and the best I've heard so far is the Pro-ject DAC box RS2 at $3000 with optional external PS. This week I am going to listen to LINN's Selekt DSM at over $4k.

     

    As a final test I'll whip out the credit card and borrow each unit for a test on my system and see how well it integrates. The RS2 sounds good, but it's been on the market for a few years and I suspect that a new version may be coming. Nice feature of the Linn is that it's upgradeable without replacement.

     

    There is a lot to consider when purchasing a DAC. How well is the DAC chip implemented, quality of components used in the construction and the power supply. I've heard good things about the Chinese brands Topping and Gustard. RME DAC-2 has good reviews and does a great job of reproducing quality recordings but it is a bit complicated to learn and I find myself having to compensate with the built in EQ for older recordings which are not of great quality. It has 20 EQ presets but I find that a bit cumbersome. The next best DAC is Chord's Qutest which really doesn't sound much different and it's a thousand more.  Until someone comes up with a Quantum DAC, I think there will always be improvement in design and sound.

     

    • Like 1
  12. This may be a bit off topic but I'll see if I can get away with it. My system consists of modified Khorns with ALK extreme slope x-over networks, Volti's wooden mid-range horn with BMS drivers and DE-120 w/SMAHL lenses. I have a McIntosh MA-352 integrated amp and an RME DAC 2 FS. Streaming is done via mini PC.  I am about to upgrade my DAC and I am wondering if I should upgrade my XLR cables? I am currently using a $17 set bought on amazon. Audioquest cables start at $300 and go up from there.

     

    Is that money well spent?

  13. 2 hours ago, JohnJ said:

    Wow.  Dave nailed it though!

    Didn't hear the first bifrost, upgraded from what was their sub $100 one. Great with my pc and tubes.

    The fella I got mine from did not like it and got a $$$ Aqua La Voce he did!

    I got a month old unit for a steal.

    I bought the Schiit Bifrost after my McIntosh MCD7000 CD player played it's last CD. Too expensive to repair due to parts availability so I ripped all my CDs to a hard drive and streamed from a computer. Before I sold the Bifrost I talked to someone at the company and told them my experience with it, his comment was it was their first dac and not perfect. It's true not everyone hears the same but that one was out in left field.

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  14. My first Dac was a Schiit Bifrost. It hurt to listen to it.

    I had my RME ADI-2 DAC FS which I bought on Amazon (so I could return it if needed) in the audio shop to do a listening comparison and the RS2 sounded much better.

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  15. Stopped by the local audio shop and listened to a few DACs. I was awestruck by the Dac Box  RS2. I can see myself parting with some money soon. Approx $2200 plus another $700 for the optional power supply. Big step up from my RME ADI-2 DAC FS, and I thought that it was pretty good.

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