cdsang

I am not exactly sure if I said it all right or you didn't read all of it, but in either of my decions it seems the RF-7s are in there. The only real quesion is, should I get an RF-3II as a center and move my recent ones to back after I get the 7s. The set up would be. Mains as RF-7s, RF-3II Center and Surrounds, or Mains as RF-7s, RC-3II as a Center, and RF-3IIs as Sorrounds. CD

Ok, now that I have a good idea, should I get 1 more RF-3II and soon after RF-7s? Or should I stick with what I have and get RF-7s. The reason I ask is, RF-3IIs are now pretty rare. So the sooner I know, the better. The 3 i can get as soon as tommorow. The 7s, well, in a few months. I can get these speakers at The Sound of Tristate on RT 13 in Dover Delaware. Talk to a guy named Larry or Jay and they can useally get you a nice deal. CD

The 7s would cost me 675 each, and the RF-3s will cost me 300 each. So 1350 for 2 RF-7s or $900 for 3 RF-3IIs to complete my speaker set as a full 5 tower system. A projector will have to wait(darn it). Perhaps a new reciver for 1300 would be ok, but as anyone here knows, the better the speakers the better the system, and the speakers are the best bargin. I listen mostly to music, so the RF-7s seem a good way to go, but, the 5 3s would make movies sound better, or even better, if i used all 5 for music. What do you think I should do? Thank you in advance. CD

Well, I have asked already what to do with a grand or so, and it has been decided to go with some sort of big viewing change. What would you recomment for $1500-2000? I have been thinking of a projecter and have come up with a way to set up my room for it. My room is 13 by 11 or close to that. So, that was another reason to go FPTV. The screen I would just use a speacil paint. By the way, is a 10 foot screen to big for a projector? I would like the choice at least HDTV ready. I realize it is more expenve to run a projector, but it fixes flaws of a RPTV. First is, haveing to be directly infront of the TV, another is that uneven screen burn when changeing 16:9 to 4:3. The Pros on the HDTV is its cheaper to run, but has those little problems. I am asking for advice on which to get and which company to buy it from. It seems Mitsubishi TVs seem to be popular and I bet there good. I was thinking Infocus if I got a projector. Anyway, anything thoughts, suggections and so on would be great. Thank you in advance. CD

I had a few things on my mind on what to get. I was thinking either an RPTV HDTV or a projector,a reciver,an amp, or a sub. Right now, All I am very happy with my system, but would like a bigger TV. 14 inches just isn't cutting it anymore. I play videogames and listen to music and sometimes a movie. I say either an amp or reciver because I don't even have DTS. Of course, I could get an amp and later a preamp. A 2nd sub would smoothen out my bass. A bigger TV would be great for games and movies. I figure 1400 for a decent HDTV. Even with 45 inches I'll be happy, but with a projector, I can get a bigger screen, but also, in the long run, cost more to run(no pun intended). Sence alot of you have probly gone threw something simalier, it would be interesting to see what you would do. Thank you in advance. CD

Well I won't exatly be buying the already made ones, just the active and passive radiator. Do a DIY box for em, brace it and make some kind of finish on it. I would also use HDF mainly because thats what Earthquake uses. The 12 set would cost 300 plus shipping and handling. The 15 set would cost 365 plus shipping and handling. I found a pro amp rated at 500 watts for once channel at 4 ohms for 250 from Crown. I don't remember the model number, but its on partsexpress.com. Would you think any of this would make a good sub for both music and movies or just one of them and which one? I am trying for music mainly so maybe makeing the box smaller would help if needed. Thank you in advance. CD

Well I do understand that only some tweeters are ment for horns and some arn't. But I say 2 channel because I was talking about just 1 speaker but build 2 of those. I was hopeing people who would read this would understand this. Well, a friend of mine wanted a system to shut out her brother because he keeps screaming at his videogames, and she can easly hear it. So, I was thinking efficent speakers would help. Any thoughts? CD

I went to partsexpress.com to come up with the cheapest(to a point) way to get a hi efficent speaker system for as little money as possible. Well for about $650 US, this is what I came up with. 7 Dayton 8 inch woofers, about 17 bucks each, and 4 titinium shilded tweeters, all for one speaker cabinet. It would be in a 7 cubic food box( woofers only) with the tweeters haveing a horn. I think it would be 47(h) by 12(w) by 24(d) inches. From testing, it seems for each speaker added is 6 dB more. So at 50hz(sence its for music only) it plays at 85 dB at 1 watt 1 meter for each speaker. so 85+(6*6)=121 dB 1 watt 1 meter. Please correct me if I am wrong here. I did 6 times 6 instead of 7 times 6 because the 85 is the first speaker. But I am thinking of toneing it down to 4 woofers and 1 tweeter horned. This way would cost less then 350 dollers. So, what are your thoughs? By the way, this wasn't designed for sound quailty, just loud,decent, clean sound for a wimpy amp. Thank you in advance. CD

If you really want to know about the 1300 price on the RF-7s, well there is a small catch. I got a deal for my 3 series stuff because i bought it all at once, so now everything I buy there i get a discount on. I belive the price was 1365 about a year ago. The place is in Dover Delaware in the Sound of Tri-State and talk to Larry. The street is Route 13 or Dupont. I belive he works Tuesdays threw Saterday unless his boss changed it. The only way to get the deal from him I belive would be to buy the whole set, and you can get the 15 for 1400. Also, yes, this is from an Authorized dealer. CD

Well, do to saving up for a few things at once, it would take me 13 months to get a pair of RF-7s, or 6.5 months for each. Would it be worth the wait? I already have the Reference 3 II series set and a RSW-15. The only thing I would use the RF-7s for would be music, but I listen to music 90% of the time. Which is one reason I went with the RSW instead of SVS(Sorry Tom.) By the way, is $1300 US a pair good. I think so actually. The reason I ask is, I would like to have something a little better for music. For movies, I think my system is just fine. But its true I pay more attention to sounds in my music then small stuff in movies. I am to occupied with the story line, bass effects, and whats going on on screen. Would the RF-7s be a small or big jump as far as detial and number of sounds done at once.I was also wondering about waiting for RF-75s or whatevers next. From the looks of it, they may come up with something new in about a year or so due to the new stuff comeing out. They may be experimenting with the new stuff like they did changing the RF-3IIs to RF-35s. Any answers would be great. Thank you in advance(TYIA). CD

Hey Earle Nice set up. I dunno if my eyes are right, but is that 3 SVS subs in that right corner? Bet it rocks with all that. I hope the people next door don't hate you. CD

Hey folks, as I said, I like experimenting. I seem to of accidently made a new box design. Well, maybe its been around and I haven't seen it. Well, this design, its kinda hard to tell if its louder or not by just looking at the spl meter. The Spl meter might say 100 dB, while your ears say 105. Well, it seems the computer speaker woofer out of box the box design has a loud spot(directly in front of it) and a spots that are not so loud(sides and back). But in the design, it doesn't seem to matter where you are. So, it seems as if the SPL only does direct sounds. The box puts out sounds in all directions.I know this because I tested all this with the SPL meter. Any of you think this may have some advantages? I guess placement might be less of a big deal. Well, I guess back to the experimenting board. Makes me wonder if I should be a speaker disigner and start my own low cost, hi performace company like SVS did. You wanna know whats ironic? Some of the books I used to create my designs are books to teach you how to make stuff with wood and all that, and this last design, I used wood and a few of those books. CD

Ok, I realize 4.5 is pretty darn small. I got so sick of its weak bass. So, with lots of testing of bass horn designs, I fineally found one that really works. Ok, please remember, this is a very low x max(probly 2-3mm) and only 4.5 inches. For this, would you consider 87 dB cleanly for 50 Hz and 102 dB cleanly at 100 Hz? I could measured it wrong, its could be a 4 inch. For testing this, I used a Stryke testing disk and Rat Shack meter. I am not exactly sure of its crossover point, but I belive it tops out at about 200-300 Hz. But I really didn't do much testing on this to truely varafy. CD

Well, let me say this first, yes I think bose sucks. but I have tested the "woofers" down to 36 Hz and they play. My dad actually has that set and I have a test cd from Stryke. I got bored and thought, humm, I wonder how low they go, yep, they will play 36, but not great thou. What i mean is, you can't turn it up very high. I found a system better then bose that if they made that at the price, i would consider them a good company for people who just want a small cheap system. Its from Teac and you can get a 5.1 system for under $200. It has 4 sates each with a tweeter(got that bose) and a 3 inch midrange, and the woofer is an 8 inch driven by a 100 watt amp. If you want to see this, goto partsexpress.com and type Teac in the seach box and scroll down. Honestly, I think bose should do something close to that at least and price it about the same.

Ok, i am only kidding with this, but hows this, Better Off Shopping Elsewhere. Just for fun, lets see what you can come up with. CD

Moon I am not sure if you know this, but the back woofer is the active one and the front one is the PR. So, if you are going to take a sub off, take the one off that was on the same side as the amp or back one. Incase your still not sure, power up your 12 and see which one moves most. If you can play a 60-17 hz tone or something, that would help because the PR would have a less chance of moving. Hope this helps. CD

I was going around the site, and for some odd reason i went to the photo area and saw, Reference Satellites as a choice. I was thinking, what book shelfs? Nope. They are white sats. White outside, white cones, white huh, feet. Am I the first one to know this, or is this info really old?

Ok, honestly, I had the same problem. What you need is an Optical cable. Because Dolby Digital is Digital and not Analog. I hope HK has Optical cable inputs. That is the only way you can get Dolbly Digital to work useing your PS2. Hope this helps.

Ok, this question is mainly the basic of speakers. Most of us know that a 10 dB increase is about twice as loud. Now say you have speaker that has a 90 dB sensitivity. Then another one next to it has a 100 dB sensitivity. Is the 100 dB one twice as efficent, or would a 180 dB one be twice as efficent? Sounds kinda debateable doesn't it? Lets see what you think.

Ok, i bet alot of you remember my Boston horns from the Fake Horn threads. Well, as the title says, i do like experimenting. So useing the same speakers, a test cd useing different Hz levels and different dB levels. The biggest one that was used was 1 kHz. I put the sats side by side to see if adding a speaker really does at 6 dB. My test have shown that anywere from 6-7 dB can be increased by putting a speaker together. I did this useing useing one speaker, then 2 useing a balance in a program so i wouldn't have to touch the speakers. My next test is setting them 6 inches apart. My test have proven it works even wtih 6 inches. Next, 12 inches. Even 12 inches does 6 dB. Ok, sence were going with 6, lets try 18 inches. Yet again, a 6 dB. Ok, 24. I think I'll stop there. Ok, I got a 4 dB difference, but maybe my meter is to close. Ok, moved back a few inches and got 5. Humm, I wonder if this test can prove anything. By the way, I did use the meter in the middle of the 2, but about 10 -14 inches back. Anyone intereted in stuff like this? If so, I'll try to run more test and see what i get. This info may or may not be usefull to anyone, but sence I am doing a DIY project( someday) this may help me get an idea how to get a decently flat responce.

I got my test cd at stryke.com should be pretty easy to find from there.

honestly, i like this disk. Its clean, its powerfull. The bass on it can really make things shake. But I warn you about the high frequcyes, they are very high. They even hurt my ears. With Bose speakers, they actually played pretty low. If I remember right, it played down to 36 hz with the disk. And a normal sony reciver, less then horizontal on the volume knob, and my parents told me to turn it down. With the 20 hz, turn up the volume on an RSW-15 and things may rattle, in my house they did. Well, anyway, its fun to see what can handle what, and how low or how high a sound is. So, for just 11 or 12 bucks, can't remember exactly, its a good disk. If used right, it can be a good tool to have.

Stryke's BASSZONE TEST CD VOL 1. Thats off the cover anyway. You can see how i got my numbers that way. I also used the Radioshack SPL meter.

o right, i forgot, when i goto 16256 hz, I couldn't hear it anymore, nither could my dad. Are my ears bad, or is something not actually playing, or is over 16,000 hz that high? And another reason I did my chart was to see if there is anything wrong with what i have. As I said, I can somewhat locate my sub. So, is there anything wrong with my room and, if there is, what can i do to make it better, I have added a carpet and I do have curtins, my rooms is about 10 by 11.

Useing the stuff i have listed on the bottom, my numbers are 20 hz 73 dB, Couldn't really hear this by the way 22 hz 77 dB, I heard this a bit better 25 hz 88 dB, low but heard it just fine 28 hz 89 dB 32 hz 92 dB, Had some pretty good bass here 36 hz 93 dB 40 hz 97 db 45 hz 99 dB 50 hz 98 db 56 hz 93 dB, was amazed at the number drop actually 63 hz 91 dB 71 hz 81 dB, didn't even feel like hard bass anymore 80 hz 77 dB 89 hz 88 dB 100 hz 92 dB, amazed at the hump, but i think it was towers that gave some on that one. Just to let you know, this was useing my RSW-15 with my RF-3 II towers. This wasn't a test to see how loud i could go, just to get a graph and an idea where my peaks where.