junaidot
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Posts posted by junaidot
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On 5/29/2020 at 5:22 PM, Carlosrs said:
I highly recommend it, its also a lot of fun. Here are pics of the new crossovers, and the old one for comparison, and the interior bracing. Even though it looks smallish, the bracing really made big audible difference, that extra support really tightened things up, I was surprised. Next step is to remove that foam and line all the interior walls, top and bottom with NoRez.
(Don't pay attention to the finish, once all upgrades are done there is some tiddying up and beautifying work to do!!)
Excellent Job, Could you please help me with the correct AWG for the coils. Im working on an upgrade of my RF-83 as well.
Great! -
14 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
Yes, I remember. Please be sure to use the blue ones.
Blue one, otherwise it will not Glue😃🙂😄
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15 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
I think you should stop.
Those small coils in the high pass are wound with small gauge wire, and the high DCR has a fairly significant effect on the circuit. There is also some mutual inductance, which is also part of the circuit. Bigger isn't always better, which I found out the hard way.
If that cap is on top of that resistor, you need to fix that.
Thanks, I think I will indeed stop; it already sound quite good. I will look at the resistor/Caps position again. What's the problem if caps overlaps resistor? Just curious
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3 minutes ago, MicroMara said:
sometimes I can´t follow your minds ...Do you mean the coils on the board themselves
Perdon me! I may be speaking in lay man's language.
Yes, indeed COILS -
Now gradually to the next stage:
What do I stand to gain changing the Core/Inductions?
Any personal experience/s? -
2 minutes ago, MicroMara said:
@junaidot well done , of course you´ll hear a difference between the origin and the modified immediatly, but the burn in period will take many more hours of continuse operation. Approx. 150 to 200 hours , they´ll open up .Be patience. As I alleady mentioned by the beginning in this thread , you can´t riddle a horse from behind so it´s not a suprise that you´re expected more. If you wanna more , go back to my advise I´ve allready given 🙂
Thx MicroMara.
I made little mistake during my ordering; ordered 2x "1ohm resistors) instead of 4😄 Now have to wait for the other 2 to arrive.
what do u think of my component combination?
Update will follow soon-
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I would like to try anything that will bring more wao experience.
Having said that I could hear quite clean music coming out.................
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Its done! At least I finished one speaker and able to compare:
Pleasant to listen to not harsh compared to the original one (I did put 2/10ohm Transistor in parallel). I used Jantzen Superes transistors all round.
photos say it all.
How long does it take for the Clarity "CSA" caps to burn in? I played it the night long and could hear it getting much better. However I expected a bit more than Im experiencing now. Thus any suggestion for improvement is very much welcome:
State now:
2x Clarity CSA (5/12uf) in serie HF
1 Clarity CSA 18uf in parallel with 16uf (Jantzen Cross Cap)-
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On 5/29/2020 at 5:22 PM, Carlosrs said:
I highly recommend it, its also a lot of fun. Here are pics of the new crossovers, and the old one for comparison, and the interior bracing. Even though it looks smallish, the bracing really made big audible difference, that extra support really tightened things up, I was surprised. Next step is to remove that foam and line all the interior walls, top and bottom with NoRez.
(Don't pay attention to the finish, once all upgrades are done there is some tiddying up and beautifying work to do!!)
Which components (brand) did u use?? Apart from SONICAP which is obvious🤔
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In case someone thinks GONE WITH THE WIND!😄 I've been busy with source of Income lately!
Now to push project to finalisation below are my choices:- I surely want to buy my items here in EU
- I want to stick more to JANTZEN and Clarity (CSA) products
- I understood Clarity (CSA) are one of the least critical and due to size thus I want to use them for my HF (5uf & 12uf), only that the 5uf have to now be 5.1uf due to availability, which I understood, the 0.1uf will not make much difference
- Where necessary I intend to Flip the PCB to make this possible
- for The Capacitors in Parallel 16uf and 18uf, I will use JANTZEN CROSS CAP
- However, The series on HF (5uf and 12uf) are Non-Polarised (NP) can this work. sorry this is a little bit beyond my knowledge. I read somewhere that it doesnt matter as long as you then make sure +/- are facing correct direction
- As regards resistor I will use (Jantzen Superes) 2x 1ohm 1x 2ohm and 1x 10ohm to achieve the "Deang" prescribed solution for Horn. -
- I would have loved to use Mundorf Mresist for the 2ohm/10ohm combi but due to non availability of 2ohms (which I find strange) and I do not want to use single 1.8 which gives higher ohms than suggested 1.66
- I will leave the coils and Core for now
I need your response PLEASE In the first place as regards item 6 NON POLARISED (NP) CAPS
ANY OTHER SUGGESTION IS ALSO VERY MUCH WELCOME.
Thanks in Advance -
20 hours ago, Deang said:
Should be 16uF on the low frequency board. I normally just leave it alone. Use a Solen if you really want to change it.
18uF on the high frequency board can be a Jantzen CrossCap or Solen.
The 5 and 12 are in series with the horn. Most will say it doesn't matter what you use here but I don't agree.
Parallel a 10 ohm resistor with the 2 ohm resistor next to the 18uF capacitor on the HF board.
I appreciate very much the explanations. I talked to a friend today who is Electrical engineer (not into Audio though) who explained nicely to me the reason why Deang's repeated advice to use 2ohms and 10ohms in parallel is of better advantage to using single 1.8ohms in an attempt to reduce the ohms. Not only will it reduce the ohms to 1.66 [10*2/ (10+2)]. But the reliability is much more robust (pls allow me to use a lay language here) and will handle what it has to handle with more easy and accuracy. Makes complete sense.
Now, I intend to use 2 highly rated resistors (mondurf mresist classic, 2 and 10 ohms) in parallel there. First reason is for the size/less space they occupy and 2nd reason is that if there is more reliability to attain I dont want to miss it, especially not for the little extra cost. Do I make sense?
@Deang,- Since SOLEN is not available here locally but Mondurf, Jantzen etc any other suggestion of COMPATIBLE Caps for the Low Frequency (LF) board?
- I will surely use Jantzen Crosscap on High frequency as suggested, That is settled!
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I will not touch the Coils but I surely want to also change the 5uf and 12uf (reason is that if there is more reliability to attain I dont want to miss it, especially not for the little extra cost), Any suggestion pls on most compatible for this area. I saw that Jantzen Crosscap is NP like the original caps
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38 minutes ago, junaidot said:
Thanks for the swift response.
Do you really mean that the added performance gotten from using Jantzen Superior which is like 8x more expensive than Jantzen Crosscap is not worth it, so I may therefore go with JANTZEN CROSSCAP?
I actually meant to use Jantzen Superior Z for the 18uf
but for the 12uf & 5uf, is it then ok to use Jantzen Crosscap? but there is challenges with getting exact 5uf, I can only get 5.1uf of the Jantzen Crosscap
Anybody else with experience using this combination?Does anybody have clue/experience in this combination:?
Jantzen Superior Z which is like 8x more expensive than Jantzen Crosscap to replace the 2x 18uf caps (one on LF the other on HF)
12uf & 5uf on LF to use Jantzen Crosscap? but there is challenges with getting exact 5uf, I can only get 5.1uf of the Jantzen Crosscap -
4 minutes ago, Dr_jitsu said:
Warning, incoming question from dumb guy!
OK...so the reference series is widely regarded as very "sharp" sounding. In fact I own 9 of them. That is why the general advice is they make great HT speakers, but for music, not so much.
Now the top of the line RF-7's are less tinny sounding, but still a bit sharp for pure music listening.
I take that this mod is to make the RF 7 a perfect music speaker, yes?Yes,
To make it alround, I understand using 1.8 resistor instead 2ohm will reduce sharpness somewhat.
Totally open to all advice from someone who owns 9 (waoo).
I am all ears................ -
1 hour ago, Deang said:
Unless you build on new boards, it's important you use parts that allow you to get things back together again. Some people flip the PCBs, putting the low pass board on the bottom and the high pass on the top, which allows for using larger capacitors.
Jantzen Crosscap for the 18uF is fine.
Anyone on your side of the planet carry AudioCap PPT Theta.
Thanks for the swift response.
Do you really mean that the added performance gotten from using Jantzen Superior which is like 8x more expensive than Jantzen Crosscap is not worth it, so I may therefore go with JANTZEN CROSSCAP?
I actually meant to use Jantzen Superior Z for the 18uf
but for the 12uf & 5uf, is it then ok to use Jantzen Crosscap? but there is challenges with getting exact 5uf, I can only get 5.1uf of the Jantzen Crosscap
Anybody else with experience using this combination? -
30 minutes ago, Southern said:
I did the mod over 10 years ago, but from what I remember is that the the mids and highs were more open and clear. Since I use my RF-7's in my home theater (RC-7 & RS-7's) I found that the imaging was also much improved. I drive my home theater with an older Pioneer Elite receiver (140W x7) and like to listen to blu-ray concerts at concert volume levels. The bass is nice and tight (chest thumping) and not distorted. The overall sound is very balanced and when watching a blu-ray concert I feel like I am in the concert hall. The more that I turn up the volume, I feel that I am moving closer to the stage. At +10 I feel like I am on stage with the performers.
My thought process for this build was to get the most improvement for the price (bang for the buck).
Of course whoever has the experience
I need your help please.
- From what I have read so far I conclude to use JANTZEN SUPERIOR for the 2 18uf
- Now for the 5uf and 12uf due to size and what combines best. Which caps do you suggest?
- I will keep all inductors for now (as earlier suggested by Deang and now confirmed by Southern)
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12 minutes ago, Southern said:
For my RF-7 I replaced the caps utilizing the Dean G mod (Auricap for the HF and Solon for the LF as well as replaced the resistor with Mills), I kept the original inductors.
I was able to shoehorn the new caps in place of the old caps, unlike my RC-7 which I had to relocate the HF section (2nd photo).
I can't comment on the best cap since I didn't do a comparison, but I am pleased with the combination that I used.@SouthernI appreciate the detailed photos (which is on its own is quite self explicit) and the description. Its indeed in a Nutshell!!
How will you describe the Result in terms of Bass and tweeters performance compared to old state?Now General Question to Others experiences:
How will you compare the performance achieved when much more expensive Caps like Jantzen Superior will be used. Is the extra cost worth it? -
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2 minutes ago, MicroMara said:
...and the Jantzen wax coil´s you want to use ..they are much much bigger , won´t fit on the board as well .
Unless Im not going to change the coils as suggested by Deang. What will I loss/gain changing coils
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2 minutes ago, MicroMara said:
All resisitor, with origin values for the LF as well as the Hi Pass LCR ..you can use the Mundorf Resistors without any problems . The Jantzen Caps with origin values won´t fit on the borad , they´re much bigger !
Talking about Jantzen Caps, I saw that the resistors are moved to under part of board, leaving more room for caps
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4 hours ago, MicroMara said:
@junaidot I wrote you clearly at the beginning that YOU must get a RF7 X-Over diagram from the community first , before you even start with the modification, first the theory, then the practice. I understand your enthusiasm, but such a project needs preparation. Just remove the x-over and then realize that it is more difficult, I expected. that, many make the mistake.
I havent started the practical:
Im indeed trying to understand the schematic and what each represent very well
so if someone can pls answer my question I will appreciate very much
Thx -
Started sorting out Materials needed:
This is my LF
I know highlighted material is Caps (16uf/100v) - I can only find (15uf/400v), at least from Jantzen
The White one left is Resistor -- Is that the one whereby you recommended Resistor of THIEL? That shop is closed Temporarily. I want to be sure to buy correct value, hence the intention to stick to known/tried VENDORWHAT IS MATERIAL TO RIGHT and Value pls?
Now to my "HF"
The 2 white Materials are Resistors (Are those supposed to be Thiel's or Mudorf?)
2nd from Left:
The Black Caps is clear, I found: "JANTZEN SUPERIOR Z-CAP" any idea max diameter?3rd from Left:
The Coils, What is exact Description because there are quite a few and what should be diameter?
4th from Left:
Are 2 Capacitors as well. Are these also supposed to be: "JANTZEN SUPERIOR Z-CAP" 5uf and 12uf and any idea max diameter?Sorry, may be elementary but from all I have read correct material is extremely important
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1 hour ago, MicroMara said:
Well... looks like a first class community service for you within less than 24 hours we enabled you to start up 😉 Hope we can see some pics once your project is finished .
@Micromara
The https://xtreme-24.de/ only have up to 15uf, no 16uf which I need for LF PCB. Did you experience the samething? -
35 minutes ago, Deang said:
On no, I'm no guru, I have made a lot of mistakes though. People who don't know filter design should keep things as simple as possible. A little goes a long way, especially with these.
I would leave the small coils on the high pass alone. Bigger wire isn't always better, and the high DCR of that wire is important for that part of the circuit. There is also some mutual inductance, which is measured and accounted for in the design.
"Im no guru", that's what most HUMBLE people will say, when they are actually PRO.
Thx so much for the contribution. I might not go into cabinet upgrade immediately but I will very much love to change the coil.
I will soon start designing. using the original board is no problem, from the examples Ive seen from InVenTor, Did he use another board for the Coils and connect with wires? The point is that I could still see the 2 small coils on the board?? @InVeNtOr pls. give clue (many thx).
Thx all so far!
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4 hours ago, MicroMara said:
@junaidot..think you have enough information at the moment and you´ll be busy to get a structure in your project . I will log out now , have many other things to do , gonna log in again later in the evening ..
Sure, thx I will start gradually
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Where to buy crossover for RF-83
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Anybody else who can help?
I need correct AWG and ohm for coils
Many thx in advance