gsgleason

I want to replace the two broken binding posts on a set of RF25s. I'd like it all to match and be OEM klipsch. Does anyone have any they can sell? It seems many use the same ones.

I just picked up some excellent condition RF25s, with the exception that someone broke one of the binding posts on each speaker. Both the bottom left, actually. It appears that the post goes through the black plastic mounting plate and could possibly be replaced on its own. I tried removing the next nut on the inside, but the little nut on the inside doesn't seem to want to loosen all the way. Does anyone know for sure?

But does anyone know if it's a significant upgrade?

Rear corners are dented, not too bad. The worst one is one of the towers:

I have the chance to get a new damaged pair of RP800F with the RP600C for $500. I currently have the RF5 and RC35 that I paid $600 for last year. Is this a significant upgrade? This will be the main living area setup for 2.0 music and 3.1 movies (SVS SB1000 sub).

Those are passive speakers. You can't have a turntable connected directly to them without an amp.

I'd rather have a lively discussion than have the thread be ignored. Anyway, here's the current status: I'm confident the connections are all sound. I've removed, checked, and re-connected everything on the terminal block and re-flowed all solder joints except the two wires that go underneath the paper wrapped 2.5 mH inductor, but according to the schematic that is only for the woofer, so I'm not worried about it. I couldn't find the Dayton 4uF PMPCs in stock (only the DMPC), nor the polyester Kemet version, so I ordered some Jantzen crosscaps in 3.9 and 2.2 uf to replace all 4 caps in both crossovers. I ordered from partsconnexion.com. Once that's done I'll let you know the outcome.

The discussion about the crossovers is in the technical forum. As for the cabinet, if I can get the things working and if I like them, I'm going to start with a stripper, then sand and fill, and see if I can get the filled parts to look good enough. If not the next step will be to veneer over the whole thing. Currently waiting on some caps, so it will be a bit.

@Travis In Austin I updated my profile to show. Denver metro area (Colorado, US).

@Crankysoldermeister That is beyond kind of you. Since these are 42 year old speakers, my plan in troubleshooting the crossovers is to just replace all 4 capacitors since it needs to be done anyway to get them sounding the same.

@Travis In Austin There shouldn't be a thread by any seller. I got them through FB marketplace. I'm pretty sure the seller doesn't participate in these forums. I did post on whether or not I should consider them given their bad condition. I ended up getting them for $450 for the pair knowing the tweeters needed to be replaced and that replacement diaphragms aren't too expensive. The only thing I intend is to (hopefully) get them into working order, and based on that, decide on if I want to invest the time and money into making them look nice.

@KT88There isn't anything close to 4uF from Nichicon at mouser with a polyester dialectric. They have 3.3 and 4.7. They have 4.0 in Polypropylene but not polyester, unless I went with the KemetA50EQ4390AA60J, which they don't stock and I'd have to buy at least 2000 of them. Which 4uf cap would you suggest to go with the Nichicon 2.2 uf polyester?

Holy hell, people. Anyway, I loosened and tightened all the screws and re-flowed all the solder joints. It made no difference. What is this JEM stuff I'm hearing about? What do they offer, and how much?

The 10% ones are 2.86 USD each if I get 10. That would be $29 for 10 of them, which is kind of a lot as I would end up spending as much as getting expensive caps in the first place. I assume matching is pretty important?

I don't see any oxidation or corrosion, so I shouldn't have to remove the old. I can certainly try this as it's very quick and easy. I was also concerned with the negative bridge wire going across the terminals. It's not shiny any more. I'm wondering if I should try to polish it up or something.

Okay, I needed to go to 'film' capacitors, then I can filter for polyester dielectric.

That sounds fine, especially on the cheap. I'm not finding them on mouser, however.

I can't say I know what the original sonics would be like as my only experience is with this busted up pair. I don't even know if the speaker that I deem 'good' is even good; it's just better than the other. Since capacitors deteriorate with age, wouldn't these old stock potentially be bad as well?

Yes indeed. I'm now researching capacitors that won't break the bank. Jantzen, for example, doesn't make a 2 uf. They have 1.8 and 2.2. Which should be considered?

Yes. My concern is that the treble just suddenly cut out, and it's my understanding that capacitors don't just *poof* stop working.

No. I didn't say that. I said the problem followed the crossover, which is how I know the problem is related to the crossover. I tested all the drivers independently first and they all seemed fine, so I swapped the crossovers between the speakers, and the problem followed the crossover, meaning the speaker that was sounding bad now sounds good after the swap, and the speaker that sounded good now sounds bad.

I'm just trying to avoid the $175 investment if I can avoid it. Do you find it odd that the treble just suddenly crapped out like a switch?

That is what I already did. I swapped the crossover the the problem followed it.

All the ones on the speaker side, yes, when I swapped the crossovers.

Well, both tweeters were blown. I replaced the diaphragms, but now there is another odd issue. One of the crossovers is borked and I'm getting very low treble out of one of them. I posted about it in the technical forum. I listened to them when I got them and aside from the bad tweeters they sounded great. I have no idea what caused the sudden drop in treble on one of them.