jstanton8

Hey Dustin I got ahold of Kyle at Acoustic Visions, told him what I could afford and asked him what he could set me up with as far as an unfinished home theater sub kit, without amplifier, able to handle 700 watts, and capable of doing as much structural damage as possible for $400 to $500. This is what he advised: "Not a problem Jeffrey. Using the new Stryke AV15 15" woofer with 23mm xmax, either 2ea 15" passive radiators or 1ea 18" passive radiator and a 5 cu ft unassembled kit you are looking at: $400 (or $410 with the 18" PR) plus shipping of around $65 for all of it. This will blow away anything in its price range. The AV15 is on preorder until 10/21 and delivery will be about 7-8 weeks after. The price I quoted was for an unassembled enclosure without an amplifier." "An assembled/unfinished enclosure would raise the quoted price by $25. For your price range this is exactly what I would build myself Hope that helps, Kyle Richardson Acoustic Visions Anyhows Dustin, thanks for the advice on who to contact to build subs. I think it may be a very good alternative to jumping on the SVS bandwagon... Jeff S.

Excellent. That might very well work for me. Getting someone to build one had occurred to me, I just didn't know who to ask about such a thing. Am going to check out the URLs you sent and see what it could be done for. I know there's not much in the $400-$500 price range for unpowered subs, with the exception of the SVS CS series or maybe some used JBL theater stuff (maybe)...

Hey Dustin: I have looked into various plans for DIY subs. I'm afraid that the cost of tooling up for building my own subwoofer would probably be prohibitive, plus I'm not widely known for my carpentry abilities. Was hoping to find a cheap alternative to that option, i.e., buying my own amp and getting some cheap or used unpowered speakers to go with...I think I'm halfway there, I just need some input as to what subs might rattle windows best in the $400-500 range... Thanks for the advice,

I need some expert advice as to how proceed with adding some serious low end to my system. First and foremost, the subwoofer(s) have to be able to "keep up" with K-horns at elevated volumes. Secondly, they have to be unpowered subs. To power the as yet un-named subs, I recently purchased a 275 watt/channel (into 8 ohms, 350 watts into 4 ohms, & 700 watts mono bridged) pro amplifier on E-bay, along with a Pioneer Elite pre-amp. So I guess I could either go 2 subs (@275 watts each) or 1 sub @ 700 watts... Lastly, the price restrictions: probably don't want to spend more than $400-500 per unpowered sub. Have been considering a couple SVS or maybe USED JBL 15-18" theater subwoofers (e.g., 4648, 3635, 4638, 4641, 4645C, etc.) Does anyone have any comments as to what would have the most BOOM for the buck or have any better suggestions than the above? Thanks

I have had a KSW-15 for several years and it has been quite sufficient for me as a "beginner's" sub, and probably would meet most people's needs. However, I think it probably strains a little trying to keep up with my K-horns at elevated volumes, so I'm looking to augment my low bass output some. In any case, for its price, the KSW-15 is one of the better deals out there.

Hey Lynn: I didn't mention it, but ths pro amp won't be running Klipsches (my Yamaha DSP-A1 is handling all 7 of those quite nicely, thank you...). I'm bought it with the intent of running either a couple of SVS subs (unpowered) or an 18" or 15" JBL theater-type subwoofer(s)(also unpowered), which will eat up from 600 to 1200 watts each. Hence my question about bridging this pro amp to a "supposed" 700 watts. Those JBLs will need ALL those watts... PS Kenrat, if you're out there, I might take that JBL 4648A-8 off your hands if I can figure out how to bridge this thing... Later,

I got this pro amp on e-bay and it came without a manual. The guy I bought it from listed it as "700 watts bridged" but I did not see any indication on the back of the amp that it is capable of running bridged, much less any switch for bridging. It is a very hefty amp (over 40 lbs.)and has a monster fan in it & two 16 sq. inch air intakes (4"x4") on the front panel. I presume it has adequate heat sinks based on the weight of the amp & its fan cooling system. (One interesting thing I noticed is that when the amplifier power is turned OFF the speakers attached to it keep playing for about 20-30 seconds! Never seen that before. In any case, when I get home tonight I will take a real good look at the back panel and see if I can glean any other info from it. Like I said, the guy I bought it from advertised it as "bridgeable", maybe I can get ahold of him and see what he based that on... Later,

To anyone knowledgable about amplifier bridging: I've got a pro amp I'm planning on using to drive an unpowered subwoofer with. The subwoofer I get will depend on whether or not I can easily bridge this thing and run one big subwoofer off it or alternately have to run two smaller units. The amp is rated at 250 watts/channel (8 ohms), 325 watts (4 ohms), and has no "bridged mode", per sec. What do I have to do to bridge this thing? Is is as simple as connecting both A & B output terminals of the amp to a single pair of subwoofer terminals? Or do I need some sort of external bridging "device"? Thanks

Thanks Al, I'm heading home to try it... Jeff S.

What's an FMOD?

I will try to clarify what I've got going here: I'm sending the LFE signal from my Yamaha to a Pioneer pre-amp which is connected to a 250 watt/channel pro amp. Last night I tried it again and found that there IS a slight bit of sound produced with the pre-amp volume turned ALL the way up. It sounds similar to the level of sound I got when I tried to run a full range signal to the pro amp with no pre-amp involved (VERY little amplification). This outboard amp/preamp works fine with a full-range signal sent to it: I get plenty of sound. However when I input the LFE instead of the full range signal, I get almost nothing. Does the LFE output of the Yamaha DSP-A1 and the signal from the full range output of the DVD player require different amounts of pre-amplification? I thought you could just run the LFE to a simple "outboard amp" and that'd work. Does the LFE need more gain than my pre-amp/amp is capable of? What do I need to get that LFE signal from the Yamaha amplified to usable levels for an unpowered sub/speaker???

I am unfamiliar with how to hook up an equalizer to an amp/preamp. Can anyone tell me where the inputs/outputs of the EQ go to on a pre-amp? I'm trying to hook up a Technics equalizer to a Pioneer pre-amp...the Technics amp I took the EQ from had a "Tape 2/Equalizer" input/output, but I have no corresponding input/output on the Pioneer pre-amp. How can I hook this thing up?

I need some help with running an external amp/speakers off the LFE of my Yamaha DSP-A1 in anticipation of getting some unpowered subwoofers. Here's the deal: I cannot get any sort of amplification going from my LFE channel unless it's hooked up to my Klipsch KSW-15. I'm running my Yamaha LFE on "full" and have tried several different amps (an integrated and an amp/pre-amp combo). Since I do not have an unpowered sub as of yet, I've been substituting both a Clark TST and a full range Technics speaker in place of the subwoofer-to-be, hoping to get some sort of response. However, after repeated tries, I cannot get any sort of sound out of the LFE using the external amplifiers/speaker combos. I can get them to work, however, running a full range(non-LFE)signal into them, so I know that the amps/speakers/connections I am using are good. What in the world is going on here? According to SVS all I have to do is run the Yamaha LFE to an external amp which is connected to the unpowered subwoofer and I should be off to the races, but evidently such is not the case. I know I do not have a subwoofer hooked up, but I believe I should still be getting something with the Clark TST hooked up to the LFE...am I missing something here? Thanks, Jeffrey Stanton

Accidentally posted this twice, see post immediately after this one please...

Hey any of you K-horn owners out there...can anyone give me the proper distance (or an acceptable range) by which my K-horns should be separated? We are shopping for a new house and would like to base our selection on a room which has some dimensions adequate or amenable for our K-horns. Right now they're in a room with a wall that has only 12 feet (total distance) for them and that's a bit too tight in my opinion.... Thanks, J Stanton