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W4VCO

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  1. "IIRC, records/LPs are about the equivalent of an 8bit DAC." I wouldn't put all "records/LPs" into the same category. Many are vastly superior in dynamic range and impact than others. I've done some testing with a couple different DAC's at different sampling rates and bit depths. Everything I've tested prior to DSD has resulted in a dull, cold, lifeless reproduction of the tracks being recorded. Other than the large file size of the DSD file per track, I don't see any reason not to use it. It is an extremely accurate representation of the analog tracks being recorded due to the millions of thin slices representing each second of analog audio. "If you aren't using a pho preamp, your cartridge loading will be all whacked." The Korg has a very good built in phono preamp so no other equipment is needed prior to the ADC. The software equalization (RIAA and many others) can be disabled if one would rather complete that task later.
  2. I use a Korg DS-DAC-10R. It's a pretty nice box for its relatively cheap price tag. The software is, meh, but it works. I usually record to DSD 2.4 IIRC and the playback sound quality is every bit as good as the LP I recorded from. File size for one track is typically 250-300Mb. I have about 450 albums to run through the my home built Ultrasonic Bath, vacuum dry on the ProJect, record, split into individual tracks and add Meta Data. I better get busy. 😆
  3. I started with Heresy 1 then onto Forte II, Cornwall I, Chorus II and KHorn AK3. My latest setup is an active two-way with JBL 4648 LF cabs (think 4722) with giant BFI Bullfrog 15x30 inch horns using PRV D290-pyB drivers. The room has been tuned flat by the DBX PA2 RTA mic and wizard. Rest of the system is Pioneer SPEC. This is my first two way setup and it's absolutely incredible. Stage width is massive. Depth of the stage is better than anything I've ever owned. The system is dangerous in that it can get extremely loud but it's so clean your brain doesn't tell you to turn it down. My .02 worth.
  4. Parts and pieces showed up today. Hopefully I can start wiring it up this weekend. With the holidays here it seems like progress on projects slows down even more. I would've liked to have built the cables myself but there just isn't enough hours in the day anymore. I haven't found a good cabinet so I am going to go with the Motorola cabinet I have and just put some basic filtration in front of the fans on the QSC amps. The signal chain (on paper) looks like this, so far: Source (PC/Sound blaster Live) Crown Straight Line One Preamp DBX PA2 Driverack For the amps, I have options and more power than I truly need but there's nothing wrong with headroom. I'll be powering 2, 3002 mains (paralleled) on each channel (2 left and 2 right so 4 ohms per channel) and 2 of the 4000 LF cabinets (8 ohms per.) For amps I have 2 MX2000A's, 2 MX1500A's and 1 MX700A. The LF cabs need considerably more power to sound good, or so I've read. So what's the combo? A 2000A to each 4000 bridged? That'd be 1300w into 8ohms. Might be a tad much. Even a 1500A for each 4000 bridged would be 1000w into 8ohms. The 700A (stereo configuration) into 4ohms makes 225wpc which would be plenty I think for the 4 3002's. The system won't be cranked real loud at all so what combo makes the most sense? Thoughts?
  5. That sounds like a nice setup. I agree with the 80-100hz max xover for the LF cabs. Anything higher drones too much. I don't play it crazy loud as I like to be able to hear myself think when figuring out an engineering dilemma. 😆 It would be nice to bi-amp the 3002's but I don't want to run that much wire and honestly this isn't critical listening. They'll be just fine. Maybe I'll pull the cups and recap the passives one day. (Yeah right, when my project list gets down low enough.)
  6. Got the north/south 3002's hung. I'll probably angle them down a bit once I start some listening tests. I have 500' of jacketed #14 wire on hand. 1/4 TS 90 plugs and various interconnect cables are on the way. Still looking for a server cabinet that I can filter air before it blows into the cabinet to keep dust out. Piece by piece it'll get done.
  7. I was hoping to work on the project this weekend but Monoprice shipping put my label on a portable refrigerator instead of 500' spool of 14ga bundled speaker cable. I'm also hunting a good 19" rack to mount all the gear in. I thought I had one but the MX2000 amp is 19" deep so I couldn't close the doors on the Motorola cabinet I have. Always something.
  8. I really don't have the space to stack them on the floor. Back to crossover points, does anyone have first hand experience with running this stuff active?
  9. I didn't really plan to use all of it from the get go. Hmm. Four corners. That is a good option from an imaging standpoint. However the shop has lots of obstacles looking in from the corners. A two post and a four post lift, with the four post holding two vehicles in storage mode. A host of pallet racking along one wall. Floor space is absolute premium real estate and hard to come by. Unfortunately in this situation, music is secondary. I have to work around the many automotive and other metal projects going on. I will probably only use one pair of 1000 or 4000 if I can't make them play nice together. Most folks seem to prefer the 4000 over the 1000. The passive XO point in both the 1000 and 4000 is 150hz. I suppose I can start there and move it around a bit to see how it sounds. Julian
  10. The sensitivity of the 3002's seems pretty good. I'm mostly pleased with their sound. The HF driver could be a little cleaner but I'm not in critical listening mode in the shop. The 1000's and 4000's have a completely different sound between the two. As you say, I probably don't need one of each per side but if I can get them to integrate nicely, why not? "More is never enough." I already have them on hand. I have a 500' spool of speaker cable on the way. Maybe I can start piecing this system together this weekend. I was hoping someone had already tried to tuck a 1000 in between a main and a 4000 that could give me a starting point for the active crossover. If I come up with a suitable answer to this question I'll post it here.
  11. Hello all. First post here but have been browsing the community for quite a few years. I have been tinkering with Klipsch speakers for a number of years now as I currently own Heresey I, Forte II, Chorus II, Cornwall I and just recently sold my Black Klipschorn AK3's. I purchased a large lot (hence "wall") of KP Pro gear and I'm looking for some suggestions on what pieces to pair together. This will be setup in my 2400sq/ft hotrod shop and will be driven with various QSC MX series amps. What I have to work with is the following: 4 KP-3002C 4 KP-1000X 4 KP-4000X 2 KP-250 2 QSC MX1500 2 QSC MX2000 1 QSC MX700 The building is 40 feet wide (east to west) and 60 feet long (north to south.) What I have planned so far is to mount the (4) 3002 with wall mount brackets in a configuration where two of them are on the east wall columns about 20 feet apart and the other two, one on the north column and one on the south column. They'll be about 10 feet off the floor. The north and northeast 3002 would be driven with left channel info and the southeast and south 3002 driven with right channel info. I spend most of my time in the West center part of the shop so I would be pretty well surrounded. The big question is where to put the LF bins. As messy as an automotive shop usually is (and mine is) I don't have anywhere to put them on the floor so the only option may be to put them on some pallet racking six feet up or maybe even higher. Another question is if I were to use both the 1000's and 4000's what should the crossover points be? I will be controlling all of this with a DBX PA2 Driverack. I have lots of other fun projects to talk about and will start threads on those soon. See you all on the boards. Julian W4VCO
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