analogkid Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 I posted some pics a while back of my Cornwalls, showing my home-made grills and the risers I built to 'II' them up a bit. I received a small package today from B&K Sound containing the crossover upgrade kit. My Cornies have the B3 networks, and the 30 year-old caps I'm sure need to be replaced. I'm very excited! I thought that at the same time I would go ahead and stain the backs (I held off because I wasn't prepared to work around the factory label) and perhaps do a mod on the backs. As I understand it, The Cornwall II and III's all have the backs sealed and access is basically through the woofer. I was thinking that I could 'seal' my backs on with a thin layer of weatherstripping which would tighten them up and dampen any vibration. I haven't had any rattle issues, but the change in the later models was amde with some forethought. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Use some partsexpress speaker gasket tape to make a good seal. If the serial number stickers are intact, it's difficult to stain or paint them. As you know, the stickers are glued and stapled. I've tried before to remove the stickers to do backs, but the stickers tend to disintegrate due to age. The nicest "look" (my opinion only....) for the backs is a textured black in either satin or semi-gloss. I like satin for the backs more so than semi-gloss. To get a textured appearance; paint, let dry tacky and then roll a dry paint roller over the paint and it will "lift" in a nice pattern. Then let that fully dry and shoot with satin. Just one method. Are you going to use the old terminal block? You could install a cup (partsexpress) with a fuse holder on the bottom of the panel. Makes it easier to connect/ disconnect to move around, etc. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
analogkid Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 My plan for working around the labels is to use a stain pen the same color as the stain, and just be very careful around them. We shall see. As for the terminal connector, I haven't given it that much thought - the connections are quite solid and I may leave them as is. I will check into that gasket tape today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 My plan for working around the labels is to use a stain pen the same color as the stain, and just be very careful around them. Use a metal straight edge as a guide to "cut" the stain in as close as possible. Sometimes it will bleed under and through the paper, but usually not that noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
analogkid Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 Another great idea groom - especially with those stain pens I can get real close the label without staining it (I hope). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
analogkid Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Well I went ahead and did the recap - holding off on the staining etc for now. I must say that the sound is much improved! I do have a question: What is the formula for calculating the crossover points? I don't want some online calculator was just wanting the actual formula(s) so I can do some figuring with this fantastic new computing device: pencil and paper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el34guy Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Hello, What year are your Cornwalls? So what parts did you use? Im looking to do a slmilar upgrade or do the Crites thing. Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
analogkid Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 My speakers were built in 1982 according to the serial numebrs. I oredered a kit directly from Bob Crites - link here: http://www.critesspeakers.com/ The kit included the schematic and all new caps. Took me about 30 minutes epr crossover to swap out the parts, but if soldering is not your cup of tea Bob can do the work for you, or you can get a pair of his replacement crossovers for less than $200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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