Forte modification advice

[Phr3d]

My Forte's have no risers, and since I think I have to have riser boxes built (oak, 2 x 4, or 6, or 8?) I wondered if anyone would like to comment or offer guidance. This experiment will probably be the basis for the other 4 Forte's when the time comes (15 x 18 x 10 HT cum uncontrollable family room).

Height is the first question, I am thinking that putting the mids at seated ear height might be an improvement (avoiding superlatives, heheh).

I'm thinking dove the joints, and read of someone filling with sand,
I just can't figure out how to have them removeable, to be -able- to move
them, but still have the speakers -solid- to the base.

Also, we have carpet about 1.5" deep on very strong/firm pad (supposedly best, who knows) - I'm wondering if spikes on the riser / base will help whatever occilation I might add or experience by moving the woofers higher. and will they work/help given over 2 inches of 'softness'?

Lastly, what is involved in removing the back panels, or should I remove the Passive for internal examination. Has anyone done the caps update on their Forte's and why - better than original or repair?

much thanx.

[SilverSport]

member Gil McDermott has written on risers for these many times (William McDermott?) and this may be helpful...sorry, can't remember his screen name exactly...DON'T remove the backs...go in through the passive...I have updated the crossovers on my Quartets (almost Forte' IIs) and I have a slightly newer pair without them yet to compare to...the newer crossovers (Bob Crites) sound clearer and more articulate...when comparing my Quartets to Heresys, I found my Heresys had a clearer top end...a change to Bob CritesTitanium tweeter diaphragms seemed to make my Quartet tweeter (replaced on both pair as well as a pair of KG 5.5s for similar results) clearer and more articulate...please excuse any similarity to audiophile words as I am not one but I do appreciate Klipsch speakers...good luck.

Bill

[colterphoto1]

do this too, prevents the kids and cats from tearing up your passives

[Phr3d]

Silversport, you might be referring to the mod with the sand in the bottom, if so I did find it in my searches. I've read a lot, but still not sure how far to go with the risers and / or spikes. Tweeter replacement if at all, will happen after the structure mods, mainly wondered if the xovers ever -failed- on the Forte. I know that the Crites mods are appreiated here, and very reasonably priced.

Toddlers and cats won't be a problem any time soon, though the grills do look nice.

[SilverSport]

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/77074/761213.aspx#761213

Found one...

Bill

[Phr3d]

Thanx! posted there as well..

[Phr3d]

It sounds like oak, 2 x 8 box, as 36" is near the cornwalls tweeter height? Not sure (anyone know the CW & KHorn tweeter height?).

Any advice about mounting the riser to the speaker? gasket, silicone, wood to wood with glue. Don't think I can bolt them on, much as I'd like them to be removeable.

[Paul]

Why do you want them removable?,Stick them to the bottom,Bull dog construction glue.You want the bottom to be as firm as it can be.Go around the inner with glue as well using your finger,If you want to know about more mods for forte let me know.any thing from solving air leaks to tweets.klipsch forgot many things when building these.

[Phr3d]

I -think- I'm going to seal the bottom of the riser (now 1 x 12 oak) and throw in a sandbag to minimize rocking/occilation from moving the woofer up so high. Given their starting weight, they will be near -immoveable- after the riser mod, so if the riser was removeable that would help. But I cannot think of a way to do it, so no joy on the removeable.

Money is an issue right now, but the final mods will be Crites the crossovers and tweets and replace the input with newer bi-amp terminal and bi-amp them.

The air leaks sound like a self-help, what do you recommend (as I'll have them in a woodsmith shop).Still debating spikes as well.

[Paul]

For your air leaks ,#1 Take one of your grills off,Now your grills are held on with pegs that go into rubber grommets in several locations,#2 Pull one rubber plug out with your fingers,most are just loose,#3 Place one hand to the rear, and push in and out on the passive rad,Place your big face in front of the little hole you see where you removed the grommet,BINGO-- see the air that you lost,Really the cabinet is not sealed properly because the air will just escape around the rubber plugs when you play the fortes.Klipsch should off thought about this for the passive to work better,The purpose of a passive is to have a good sealed box,Now this is a good fix so you really hear the low end from the passive ,remove the front 12" driver.get some silcone (clear) (or the yellow construction glue for the inside only),For each hole put a good amount on the end of your finger,go into the cabinet and cover each hole,make sure you look in the hole on the outside to make sure you did,Now, the plug will not go all the way to the end on the inside when you insert it,now for each plug put a little silicone around each one and push them in.take your time and you will do a nice job so you dont have silcone squeezing out,Let dry for 24 and you will have a properly sealed cabinet,that is if your seals are ok behind the tweeters and drivers.Now your passive will truly work better with the front woofer.After this is done you can hear a noticable difference in low end performance.