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Crisis! Exigency! Locusts! Pestilence! Massive Bummer! Trauma! CRAP!


oldmako

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Did I get your attention?

Well I finally did it. I blew one of my tweets. In my grief and self loathing, I am about to cap my own self.

I was chillin with a fat spliff (and a caucasian) this evening when it occurred to me that things weren't right in my universe. In fact they were horribly askew in the auditory department. I crept up to the right one with trepidation, angst, a cocked ear and a tight sphincter.....toast!

Is there a replacement tweeter readily available for an old CF3?? Absent the original equipment, is there something else I can install which will mimic what was installed by the folks in Hope? This really sucks!

I've fallen and I can't get up.

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Specifications

FREQUENCY RESPONSE 35Hz-20kHz(+-)3dB

POWER HANDLING 250 watts maximum continuous (1000 watts peak)

SENSITIVITY 100dB @ 1watt/1meter

NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 8 ohms

TWEETER K-63-KN 2" (5.08cm) Aluminum diaphragm compression driver******

HIGH FREQUENCY HORN 90(o)x60(o) Tractrix® Horn

WOOFER Two K-1030-KN 10" (25.4cm) Poly carbon graphite cones

ENCLOSURE MATERIAL Medium density fiberboard construction (MDF)

ENCLOSURE TYPE Bass reflex via dual front-mounted ports

DIMENSIONS 41" (104.14cm) x 17" (43.18cm) x 17" (43.18cm)

WEIGHT 102 lbs. (46.27cm)

FINISHES Whitewash, Lt. Oak, Med. Oak, Cherry, Walnut, Black Satin

BUILT FROM 1994

BUILT UNTIL 1996

part # for the cf3s is k-63-kn 2" compression driver kit $304.18 each and they do have them in stock . I hope this helps, go to contact on this forum and they will lead you in the right direction 1-800-274-5547

post-37861-13819488294982_thumb.jpg

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Wow....your reply came in about two minutes. I sure do love this site. Thanks a ton.

The price is a bit of a surprise as I replaced a Forte tweet for about 35 bucks, but if that's what it takes to resurrect the boomers than I'll gladly pay it. Hell I only paid $240 for the pair of CFs! Truly a craigslist steal.

Thanks for the help!

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I was hoping that Bob might be able to help. I'll try and contact him. Thanks for the tip.

As far as checking the continuity, is that as simple as using a digital VM to check the wires to the driver? I do plenty of electrical stuff on my boat, but know next to nothing about audio gear. What specifically should I check?? Is there a value or a value range I need to see or just current flow?

Thanks again for you advice. It would be great if I could repair this without dropping 300 bucks, but if that's what it takes I'll bite the bullet.

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