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About djk

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    Klipsch Fanatic
  1. "Really... was material coming out the entire time?" No, I quit when it seems clean, re-assemble, then listen. Sometimes there is debris under the top plate (especially if someone used compressed air and blew it back away from the gap), and it works its way back to the gap. "I made a couple passes, didn't see any debris, and reassembled." That's what I do too.
  2. " what the difference be on swapping an 8ohm one " You would need to change the crossover parts for the 8Ω driver, and adjust the levels for the mids and HF (including some part value changes). Will need an extra gasket and a minor cabinet mod.
  3. The Hughes (Peavey) is a conical, with a Quadratic throat (and sound quite good, odd 1.6" throat though).
  4. I've had to spent hours cleaning just one driver (before they quit buzzing).
  5. Masking tape folded into a triangle, sticky-side-out.
  6. " They beat the crap out of all of the old units. Just no comparison in clarity and crispness. " Well spoken for someone that has never heard a 2120 with my cap mods. Typical price for a working 2120, non-working would go for half. The MC-252 has a lot of room for improvement, it used polarized electrolytics with no bypass in the direct signal path, and NE4558 opamps (gag me on both).
  7. Are you talking about the split in the Kapton former? Crap-in-the-gap makes noise, cleaning it quiets it down. Never use compressed air.
  8. Need someone full time for dusting!
  9. The LaScala will handle your huge Crown on program material above 100hz. Use a subwoofer with an electronic crossover and you should be fine.
  10. I would replace all the small electrolytics on both amps, and check the ripple voltage on the main filter caps at half power into a dummy load. There are some hard-to-find high-voltage multi-section caps in the 2100. If you do my simple capacitor upgrade in the 2120 (while replacing all the old electrolytics) it will sound better than 99% of all amps, period. Caps Posted by djk (M) on August 13, 2007 at 19:10:35 In Reply to: RE: Sell it to me ! posted by joeychitwood on August 13, 2007 at 16:38:07: MC2125 caps Add one 47µF across each ±42V rail at the main filter caps Add a 0.01µF~0.1µF film cap in parallel with C239, 240 (little board on the input jacks, very tight for space) Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C203, 204 (input coupling cap to impedance buffer) Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C207, 208 (output coupling cap from impedance buffer) Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C219, 220 (feedback cap) Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with Q215, 216 (bias transistor) Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C305, 306 (±15V regulator outputs) Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with D304, 305 (reference diodes for regulators) I cut off all the push on connectors in the power supply and speaker relay and soldered them direct. I soldered a pair of 0.1µF film across the speaker relay contacts and cleaned the relay contacts with a sheet of paper and applied De-oxit. I sprayed De-oxit on the RCA jacks, cleaned the input sensitivity selector switch (very important), and the edge connectors for the L and R amp boards. I removed the 10-32 screws on the main filter caps and used De-oxit before replacing. Do not move the chassis with the bottom off, the glass could crack. Put it on a small piece of carpet to help turn at different angles. The 47µF are under a lot of stress, I used 100V caps even though they only run at 42V. Even though this changes no measurable performance specification, it will change the sound more than you can believe. Jackhammer bass from an amp with a DF of only 14?
  11. Replace old foam with new foam gasket tape.
  12. You will need an electronic crossover, pre-outs, main inputs, and four channels of amplification.
  13. When not using an electronic crossover it is a good idea to use the same size amp on the top and the bottom.
  14. Four channels for HF, four for surounds. Need two of these for four bass cabinets.