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About djk

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  1. "rotate the woofers every ten years is a good idea also gets you inside for a visual. Suspension sag is not a reported problem with the K33 but it is still a good thing to practice rotation. Install fresh electrolytic capacitors some time after 25 years is a good plan and they will see you to the grave and entertain your grand children." +1
  2. Rob Gault Chairman Company Name Eminence Speaker Dates Employed Oct 2009 – Present Employment Duration 8 yrs Location Eminence, KY Compliance Officer Company Name Eminence Speaker Dates Employed Oct 2009 – Present Employment Duration 8 yrs Location Eminence, KY Oversee Compliance with Environmental Regulations at Eminence Speaker Owner Company Name Eminence Speaker, LLC Dates Employed May 1986 – Present Employment Duration 31 yrs 5 mos Research Scientist I Company Name Georgia Tech Research Institute Dates Employed Nov 1982 – May 1985 Employment Duration 2 yrs 7 mos Location Smyrna, GA Microwave antenna measurements Education Georgia Institute of Technology Degree Name MS Field Of Study Electrical Engineering Dates attended or expected graduation 1982 – 1985 Georgia Institute of Technology Degree Name BS Field Of Study Physics Dates attended or expected graduation 1977 – 1982
  3. bought some used la scalas

    The original LaScala was a top-loader design, you removed the top, the mid horn, the woofer hatch, and then you could access the woofer. On a top-loader you only need remove the hatch and add the ported board across the back. Two 4" diameter by 7" long ports seem to be the best. An EV Interface A EQ makes the vented LaScala flat to 32hz. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electro-Voice-Interface-A-Equalizer-/112563237144?hash=item1a354ab118:g:45gAAOSw1G1ZqMT7 Other versions can be made to work with a change to two resistors per channel. (also older AudioControl EQ's) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audio-Control-Equalizer-Model-520-Made-in-USA-/272846490615?hash=item3f86eb0bf7:g:0IkAAOSwlEdZry6e
  4. Phono Preamp? Tube or SS

    http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/bugle2schema.pdf Passive EQ (between stages) makes record tics and pops almost vanish. Board only $49, whole kit $239. https://www.haglabs.com/collections/phono-preamps
  5. Notes refer to building the bass section of a split LaScala, I built 24 in the late '70s. ***************************** Cut all 22-1/4" items without moving the fence, box will be square that way(rip oversize and re-saw if need be). Set the blade to 30*, take your time and get it right. If your blade heels (most do), set the fence to be parallel with the blade. The set on the teeth should just shave the aux fence. An auxillary fence is used to cut the 60* angle, the board will be fed vertically into the blade. Use the next chamber angle board as a push board, then the ramps, then an absolutely square push board will be needed for the last item. Cut all ramps in one piece at 60* and 30*, then re-saw to 3" (add for your saw kerf). A brad nailer is used on the 60* boards to attach to the chamber sides and (later) make the front angle. I use 8d galvanized casement nails for about everthing else. With skill they can be driven flush without a nailset and leave no mark on the wood. Lay the chamber sides into a groove on the saw top. Lay the chamber angle sides on top and square up with the table edge. Tack in with two wire brads, then carefully pull appart. Apply glue to the joint, re-assemble, tap the two brads in all the way, and check to see if it is still square. Nail the rest of the joint with brads. Check for square (easier to fix now than later). This is all much easier than it sounds. Set the T-nuts (I use a c-clamp), make sure they have threads!. Glue and nail the ramps onto the motorboard. Draw lines on the motorboard so your nails will actually hit the ramps. Blunt the point of the nails to avoid splitting. Dry fit. Drive two nails for each ramp, but only a fraction of an inch into the ramp. Mark the order of the ramps on the motor board. Knock apart. Glue. Drive the nails home, add a third nail to each ramp if you like. Use a Surform body file if you need to lose any wood that hangs out past 22-1/4", the points should hang over the 15-1/4" width. Line up the motorboard assembly with the back and draw nail lines for the ramps. Cut the deflector shorter than 13", it will save a lot of grief. Attach to the back. Are your nail lines going to be visable? Dry fit the side/angle assembly to the motorboard with a couple of blunted nails. Start all the nails you will use. Glue. Make sure its square. Drive home the nails. Repeat for the other side/angle assembley. Use a small spacer to keep the front angle open while you work. When the whole mess is square, remove spacer and use the brad nailer on the front angle. If the doghouse is not square at this point, stop and fix it. Dry fit the chamber bottom to the back with two or three nails, then dry fit the doghouse to the bottom with a couple of nails. Glue on the bottom. Glue on the back. Dry fit the chamber top. Glue on the top. I use a two-flute panel cutter with a guide bearing to cut the woofer mounting hole in the bottom, use the brad nailer to tack on a guide for the router to follow the front edge of the cut.
  6. " 20 solution. This looks to be the only option if you want to go that cheap. : Don't waste your money (like I did).
  7. Help to ID Klipschorns

    Paul W. Klipsch launched the Klipschorn loudspeaker in 1946. It (really) doesn't look much different today. Need a shot of the backside to guess the age.
  8. What has happened? I wan

    '87 would have an AL variant, did not have zeners. Check the solder joint where the 125µH runs into the lower 2µF and then runs to the tweeter + connection. When this connection has a cold joint the speaker will keep blowing tweeters like mad.
  9. Klipsch Sightings

    " Here's mine: Mr. Klipsch, your product failed the "Lion Test". You need more base response! LOL! " Here's mine: What part of "seldom roar during the day" didn't you understand?
  10. identify Klipsch speaker

  11. Use an electronic crossover and add a subwoofer, it will be smaller, and sound much better. At one time I used a set of four JBL 2231 pro 15's as a sub for HIP's, they laid waste (went lower, played louder, etc) to the Klipschorns they were on top of. These days a pair of modern 12's (with some power) would do the job. https://forum.speakerplans.com/cheap-driver-box-combination-to-get-low-and-loud_topic89375.html
  12. You need a steep filter to remove all the junk below 30hz from the phono. Something like this will do: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Audio-Control-Stereo-Octave-10-band-graphic-equalizer-subsonic-filter-/253104489715?hash=item3aee3404f3:g:Ro4AAOSwP0ZZjF8b http://www.ebay.com/itm/AudioControl-D-520-5-Band-Equalizer-with-Subsonic-Filter-and-Tape-Monitor-/322665374596?hash=item4b205ae384:g:HvcAAOSw~iRZmgN3
  13. Aside from being about 18dB down at 20Khz, how does the Dayton (actually) sound? https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/275-087s.pdf