djk

Heritage Members
  • Content count

    6214
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

385 Excellent

1 Follower

About djk

  • Rank
    Klipsch Fanatic
  1. The early Cornwall had the drivers soldered to the internal speaker wire, the later models did not. Even when new the later Cornwall had a problem with the image drifting. Soldering the wire to the drivers will fix this, but Bob Crites says a lot of people ruin the tweeter while doing this, and thanks me for the replacement diaphragm business he gets from these people. If the ESR is high on the original caps (over 0.5Ω), they will benefit from being replaced.
  2. Two things damage speakers: Mechanical damage (from too much excursion). Too much average power. (notice that clipping is not one of those two things?) Compression raises average power, and thus burns out drivers. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Clipping blows out drivers, not because of the clipping, but because of the increased average power in the program material during the time when the amplifier is not clipped.
  3. I remember the FT101 tuner, it used a $20 Alps tuner can (like a car stereo).
  4. The PD4V has no phase plug, and just looks like a big hill at 2.5Khz, rolling off above and below there.
  5. Put up a link to your schematic.
  6. Joined on 09-01-2000 Posts 1,891 Re: Using 4 ohm tap or 8 ohm tap "So are you saying that you can get better sound on the 4 ohm tap with Klipsch speakers and tube amps?" At low volumes a speaker always plays loudest on the 8 and 16 ohm taps. As you turn up the volume and 'thump' it a bit you will find the speaker sounds the best on the tap that closest matches its impedance, and plays the loudest too. Always try the 4 ohm tap. Leave it on whatever sounds the best. Hint: it sounds 'thin' when you turn it up if you have it hooked to too high of a tap.
  7. " I used by router and dug our 1/8" to clearance for k55. " Klipsch did that on some of the pro versions of the LaScala.
  8. Those early Nak receivers were built under license to Nelson Pass, a patented Stasis design.
  9. They shut off the power to my room when I would play my 30W Sansu too loud (on my Altec A7's).
  10. +1 on the Thorens.
  11. Check for a dirty speaker relay contacts.
  12. Measure the ESR, if it is over about 0.5Ω, replace.
  13. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-La-Scala-Factory-K-77-F-Tweeter-Horn-Diaphragm-Faceplate-Assembly-127126-/151254367672?hash=item2337767db8:g:jcMAAOxy3HJTI3ez The only one I have seen that is OK, the cheaper ones are junk.
  14. " I have a question about my Carver M1.0T amps. I have used them in the mono bridged mode pushing some Infiniti Kappa 7's. " Do you drive your car into brick walls too? The M1.0 will run in mono into 4Ω for a very, very, very short period of time. It will rip your face off with a single stereo M1.0 driving a pair of RF7's. The M1.0 only has ONE output pair that must provide all the current to drive the load, all the other outputs are in series. That pair of outputs is only rated at 15A, and the gain drops like a rock above 8A or so. 8A is 5.6A RMS, or 32A^2 * 8Ω =256W/8Ω (in stereo).