Jump to content

KP301-B-BR and QSC CX1202V


tensleep

Recommended Posts

I have had the Klipsch for awhile, but never had a good amplifier to really give them a spin. Hopefully, that is about to change! I am moving into a new place and will set up the Klipsch. The QSC is a recent find. I still have to check it out, but other than missing the main fuse, it looks new.

  1. What do you think about this match - what can I expect?
  2. What type of preamp/mixer/tuner would you use to control the amp?

I will listen to music in stereo initally. I may eventually incorporate the Klipsch into a home theater environment, but they are pretty big. Dunno if the wife will go for it, unless it really sounds good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have the KP301 in the new house. I haven't yet had a chance to drive them with the QSC, but should have an opportunity this weekend. However, I don't have the source input plug in blocks to connect the source cable to the back of the amplifier. I posted on the QSC forum as well, but I thought that some of you pros here could point me in the right direction for these small parts.

Thx

Bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I am auditioning the Klipsch and the QSC as I type this. I think I am in love! This match is amazing. I gotta get some kind of a preamp soon. I am using an old Realistic stereo mixer right now. Even so, the QSC is really working well with the Klipsch. I bought them used over a year ago, but never really had a place or the amplifier to do them justice - until now!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I am using the preamp section out of a Rotel integrated. The QSC is much easier to control and I can switch different sources with ease. I am currently running a very nice Denon DVD player. It has SACD capabilities, so I guess I need to get an SACD and see what all the fuss is about. I have a turntable at my cousins house that I need to reclaim as well.

The QSC and the Klipsch sound very good together. I can turn up the volume with ease. I cannot open these all the way up - the SPL gets ridiculous. At reasonable levels, they sound tremendous. The highs and mids are very detailed without any of the honkiness that I have heard described. When I turn up the volume, the highs do become uncomfortable quickly. The Rotel provides just enough tone control to help me take off some of the edge. I can also defeat all tone controls, as well as run direct from the CD. I am considering biamplification, using the amp section of the Rotel to drive the mid and high frequencies, leaving the QSC to handle the lows. Will I need an active external crossover or can the speaker crossover already installed be configured to acommodate biamplification?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am game! I have printed the schematic and at first glance, this schematic shows separate LF and HF inputs already. However, the Klipsch terminal panel is labeled biwire and the system is definitley running full range at the moment. The "-" post of the LF input must be bound to the "+" post of the HF input on the backside of the terminal block, interior of the cabinet?

Also, what is that device labeled RDE 050 in the tweeter circuit? I am sure that it is used to help block low frequency energy, but it looks like some kind of active device symbol.

Finally, with this crossover diagram, it looks like I could send full range to both inputs without worrying about an external crossover, correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Darned, I was sure I responded to this earlier today and don't see it here. Here we go again.

RDE 050 is the polyswitch, part of the KLIP tweeter protection circuit.THere are usually LF and HF fuses which protect against driver burnout for instaneous peaks (if the right fuses are installed- CHECK THESE). The polyswitch works as a circuit breaker on the tweeter circuit if long term damaging voltage is present. WHen it heats up it shunts the circuit, when it cools down it allows current to flow again (unless it totally gets blown apart, which I've seen).

Ok, on to the biamp part. On some Klipsch pro speakers, the schematic shows several red interconnect wires on the back of the input jack cup. The instructions are to CUT ALL RED WIRES to allow biamping of the speaker. Although this is not shown on your schematic, a quick inspection of your crossover will probably show this to be the case.

Michael

KP-362.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information Michael; you're a stellar fellar. I will pull out one of the input jack cups and get some pictures posted. I will also look at a way to make the modification for biamplification reversible, should I wish to return to full range at some point. I pulled the fuses when I first got the speakers, just to be sure they were present, but I will look more closely for type and value (20A AGC).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuses should be a fast-blow type for speaker protection against peaks (dropped mics, etc). Generally the Klipsch 15" woofers run a 3 amp and most HF sections are a 1 1/2 amp. I'll double check my chart in the shop.

Per the schematic, all pro speakers were shipped with 20 amp so they could be easily tested and used for installations (where changing fuses would be difficult). There was an info sheet that showed the correct value to use for protection, but in my experience most users did not make a change to the appropriate fuse value, hence a large number of pro speakers suffered needlessly.

Can you ask the moderator to move this thread to the Commercial forum? That's where most of the pro queries are. Thanks!

M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuses should be a fast-blow type for speaker protection against peaks (dropped mics, etc). Generally the Klipsch 15" woofers run a 3 amp and most HF sections are a 1 1/2 amp. I'll double check my chart in the shop.

Per the schematic, all pro speakers were shipped with 20 amp so they could be easily tested and used for installations (where changing fuses would be difficult). There was an info sheet that showed the correct value to use for protection, but in my experience most users did not make a change to the appropriate fuse value, hence a large number of pro speakers suffered needlessly.

Can you ask the moderator to move this thread to the Commercial forum? That's where most of the pro queries are. Thanks!

M

Well, let's not have any needless suffering! Thanks very much for that information!

I assume that I make the request to the moderator to move this thread to Commercial in the body of this message? If so, would the moderator please be so kind? If not, how do I contact the moderator? I'll look around some more, but it wasn't obvious to me at first glance. I see the "Report Abuse" link at the bottom of the post, but nothing else that may link me to a moderator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...