peshewah Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Too cool Mustang Guy. Thats what I was thinking. Your a good man. I have the PL, wood clamps, screws, scrap MDF for bracing. Now I need the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peshewah Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 this is the front with out the lid on. I need some bracing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peshewah Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 inside of box. Sorry pictures are up side down. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Another build thread, awesome! Keep the pictures coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) That's looking mighty good. Leaving the top off till last is a good idea. You can get that bracing in a lot easier. I hope it sounds good. On paper, it kicks butt... Edited December 11, 2014 by mustang guy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) If you want, you could make a speaker grille for the front. I would select it depending on the color or veneer you choose. If you go a dark wood, cane looks nice. For a nice, and indestructible finish, you can paint with Duratex. With that, a black fabric grille would look cool. If you want it to look like a piece of furniture, then you might try your hand at veneering. A walnut veneer and a cane grille would look beautiful. Keep in mind that the excursion is about 1/2" on that driver. I allowed a full inch on the motorboard offset, so you have plenty of room for a grille that the driver can't hit. Edited December 11, 2014 by mustang guy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peshewah Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 I too hope it sounds good Mustang Guy. I went with the Dayton amp. I can't cut braces until weekend. I will post questions tonight when I have more time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) FROM YOUR PM: Did you figure the box for a 12w1 or 12w3? I have the 12w1. If you figured it for a 12w3 I can call the store I bought if from and try to return it and buy the 12w3. I thought about getting the 12w3 anyway. Those drivers will perform almost identically in this enclosure. The main difference is the V3 will handle 275 watts before reaching excursion limits at 31Hz, where the V1 will reach excursion limit at 155 watts before reaching excursion limits at about 31 Hz. Here are the response and excursion graphs for your project. Edited December 13, 2014 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 FROM YOUR PM: Sorry if I am bugging you. Do I need to brace the motor board? Do I need to brace the vent slot? I don't mean to offend you but do you build a lot of sub? Thank you for your time I would put a couple 1/2"x 1/2"x 4" little blocks of wood in the center of the underside of the slot. Just use glue. Here is a nice bracing example. I would use your MDF in about 3-4" widths. If you can get your hands on some polyfill or fiberglass insulation, you can put that in the box to make the response a bit better. About 1/2 full would do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) One thing to think about is mounting the driver. If you plan on using regular wood screws, you should glue little blocks of wood behind each screw point so you have 1-1/2" thickness. MDF is not too strong for screws, and if you don't do this, you should use T-Nuts. Also, make sure the seal between the driver frame and the motorboard is air tight. See speaker gasket tape if the driver does not already have it attached: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540 Here are pictures... These are T-Nuts. Available at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. If you use wood screws, the mount blocks are glued under where the driver screws are. Edited December 13, 2014 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peshewah Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) does this take up too much volume? Need to add alitte more. Dry fit Edited December 13, 2014 by peshewah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hardly any volume at all. Do consider polyfill or fiberglass stuffing about 1/2 way though. It will help the sub sound bigger, and deaden some of the resonance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Update. I used the wrong port length in the measurement above. The port I designed in Sketchup is 12" long instead of 11". Here is the new TFM. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peshewah Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 The sub sounds great. Thanks Mustang Guy. My boy loves it. At first it was rather weak, but after an hour or so it got louder. Then we turned the sub towards the corner and it sounds great. I tried to apply a primer but it turned out poorly, just too cold. I sanded it off. I am going to have to wait until Spring weather. Thanks to all who gave me some input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Sub drivers have to break in a while. This is important because the VAS and CMS parameters which this enclosure is tuned for is based on the driver being broken in. I have seen figures from 40 hours to 100 hours for a good break in. BFM mentioned 400 hours for some drivers! I think that's a bit over the top, but suffice to say, it will sound better as it is used. Also, the corner loading will most definitely give the fullest bass sound, but it's not necessary. It only gives you more loudness. I figure your son wanted more bass, didn't he? I have 3 sons, so I get it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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