rjmusto Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Hi, Has anybody got a copy of the circuit diagram for one of these supplies? Mine has failed. It looks like a pretty straightforward design using the 3843 PWM chip, but a diagram would still be very helpful. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjmusto Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Just in case it is useful to someone: I have fixed the PSU. Never did find a circuit diagram, but it was a simple fault in the end. The smoothing electrolytic capacitor for the 3843 chip was dried out. Replacing this component brought the supply back to life. Fairly easy fix if your competent with a soldering iron. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjmusto Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 One follow-up pice of information that may be useful: This particular model of the iGroove is an early example and it would seem it relies solely on the Firewire port to charge the iPod. It is therefore not compatible with the newer iPods, as these only charge through the USB connection. It also concerns me a little that the iGroove puts out 18v on this Firewire connection, when the spec for it is 12v. Although I think the early forms of Firewire had a bigger tolerance, so maybe its ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danilo Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I just had a similar issues and just because you had posted an update to your issues, I checked the electrolytic capacitor and found it to be dried. I had completely overlooked it earlier, thinking that what could possibly happen to it. Replace it and my power supply is fully functional again. Thank you and keep up the good work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drueppel Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201 Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor) See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board. 100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JollyJohn Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Hot Damn!! My Bose SoundDock has been sitting around, broken, for a few years now. Saw this thread, popped open the power supply, replaced C4 with one I had sitting around and viola!! It lives to play on. Thanks for sharing this info. The picture was a big help - it made me realise this was the same PS used in the Bose unit. Thanks to all for the help! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain_Bluebeard Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 I have signed up to advise UK users that if you are not handy enough at electronics to follow all the instructions in this thread, then you can simply source a replacement for the Phihong power brick from UK eBay seller acadaptors_r_us http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400944088084?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Make sure you buy the UK Clover plug lead for the adaptor as well - the link above includes it (they have other listings which don't include this cable - i.e. just the power brick itself) I just received mine, and am now really glad that I didn't throw my iGroove away after the PhiHong power brick packed up. Great sound for my iPod again ! Disclaimer: I am not connected to the seller in any way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepi Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201 Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor) See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board. 100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck. Hi all, same problem here but having 0 experience or knowledge on how to even troubleshoot to see if my C4 capacitor is the fault I would like to ask you guys for help. I do have a multimeter at home and if I figure out what to fix I can definitely run out to grab a soldering iron and the required components. I popped the adapter open and that's where I'm sitting at right now. Thank you. Edited December 5, 2015 by Pepi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadoz28 Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Thank you very much guys! I was about to buy another power supply for my Bose RoomMate (1st gen, I guess), and I found out that it had the same Phihong circuit board and the very same problem! I fixed it with a few euros. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmjpac777 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201 Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor) See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board. 100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck. Great review of this issue and repair instructions were spot on. Thank you for making this an easy and inexpensive repair. God Bless! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stive Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 (edited) Klipsch iGroove HG model 1006519 power supply is a PHIHONG PSM36W-201 Can usually be repaired by replacing the small 100 uf 35 volt electrolytic capacitor C4 (next to the top of the large electrolytic capacitor) See the PSM36W-201.jpg file attached. Observe correct polarity. Negative is toward the more open area on the circuit board. 100uf, 50 volt is okay. $1.50 at Radio Shack. The connector pinout is two ground pins closest to cord. +18 V on left top, -18 V on right top (with cord aimed down) All you need is a small soldering iron, solder sucker, and a bit of solder. Good luck. I think the C4 is my problem also. However, when I opened up the ps, I could not see "C4" on the circuit board. Can someone use the picture posted above and circle which one it is? I am no techie, but willing to give it a try. It is not working, so why not. Mine is the Bose psm36w-201 which appears to be the same as the Klipsch. Update: I have found and replaced the C4 with the radio shack capacitor. I now have power to the sounddock and the ipod shows that it is getting power, but I have no sound. Thanks for the posts as at least I have a working ps. Edited June 11, 2016 by stive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepi Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Finally got around to fixing this. I can confirm that it is the C4 Capacitor, regardless if you see it visibly burst or leaking. Mine looked completely fine but I followed the instructions from this post and changed it. Purchased a soldering kit from amazon for $30 and a set of 10 x 100uf, 50 volt capacitors also from amazon for like $2. I have 0 experience with soldering and managed to fix it on the first attempt so pretty much anyone can do it. Everything works fine though I'm not sure how hot the power supply normally gets because I never cared to check before it stopped working. Perhaps someone can confirm that it's warm to the touch and even warmer when in use...but not too warm that I can't comfortably hold it with my entire hand for as long as I want. Thanks to drueppel and anyone else who contributed in helping others repair their power supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strapless Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 (edited) Hi, My search for a repair to my Bose sound dock power supply led me here. I can confirm that a working unit gets pretty warm to the touch if left with the power on. I think I'm up to the repair described above but... How do I open the ******* thing??? I tried peeling off the sticker to look for screws and even that was a challenge. (There are no screws btw) I'm ready for a d'oh moment here... Edited March 26, 2017 by strapless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strapless Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 OK, faced with the fact that not being able to open it was going to cost me about $40 anyway for a new power supply I decided to get a bit brutal with it. Hammer a flat blade screwdriver 'gently' into one end and virtually break the unit open. I dont think there is another way really. I will have to reglue/tape-up the casing though. So yes, the repair worked exactly as described. Nothing apparent wrong with the capacitor but replacing it fixed the problem. FWIW I used a 63V capacitor from Jaycar in australia that cost 95cents. Thankyou new forum buddies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roumel Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Thanks to this forum I was able to get my speaker working again after many years of it sitting around. The C4 capacitor which you can tell once you have cracked open the case can be easily found underneath/beside the capacitor as it is labled on the board in small font. If you still can't find it look for a small black/grey capacitor that reads 100uf, 25v on the side. Mine was slightly bent and bubbled on top, I also replaced mine with the 100uf, 63V listed above from jaycar in Australia. Big thanks to everyone. I was minutes away from buying the psu from eBay. Ps. Only had a basic to minimal knowledge in electronic. Just did a few google searches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pluke Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 works like wonder. after 4 years of idle, directly replace c4 with new one 100uF 25V and viola! back to listening my klipsch ipod speaker. thanks to these thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twqwctf Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 I confirm this solution worked for me too! Thanks very much for this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
messagebearer Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 (edited) On 3/26/2017 at 4:03 AM, strapless said: OK, faced with the fact that not being able to open it was going to cost me about $40 anyway for a new power supply I decided to get a bit brutal with it. Hammer a flat blade screwdriver 'gently' into one end and virtually break the unit open. I dont think there is another way really. I will have to reglue/tape-up the casing though. Hey, I know this is an old thread, but once you got your unit open do you still think it could not be opened without busting it? Edited March 4 by messagebearer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buschmon Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 Posted March 4 (edited) On 3/26/2017 at 3:03 AM, strapless said: OK, faced with the fact that not being able to open it was going to cost me about $40 anyway for a new power supply I decided to get a bit brutal with it. Hammer a flat blade screwdriver 'gently' into one end and virtually break the unit open. I dont think there is another way really. I will have to reglue/tape-up the casing though. messagebearer said: Hey, I know this is an old thread, but once you got your unit open do you still think it could not be opened without busting it? Edited March 4 by messagebearer I used a utility knife (drywall razor) to repeatedly score all around the seam to open the Power supply. To put it back together, after repair, I used e-tape around the perimeter. Many thanks to drueppel from 2015. Replacing the capacitor worked. I replaced with the same size as was on the original board. The Klipsch unit was purchased around 2000. I used DigiKey for supply of the needed, 100 uf 25V capacitor..... 0.75 cents. Also purchased a solder sucker for ~$8. The deciding factors were DigiKey had the correct specifications (many other suppliers were out of stock) delivered quickly and didn't require a minimum quantity or minimum $$ purchase. Two days latter, the groove is back in use and not in the landfill. Thanks again d. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.