ngen33r Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 I would recommend removing parts from board. Clean good, put tape on back of the board and fill hole with epoxy. I will send the pictures in a message. Failure of BASH board causes the resistors to burn like that and damage the board. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alhim Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 On 4/28/2020 at 7:20 AM, ngen33r said: I would recommend removing parts from board. Clean good, put tape on back of the board and fill hole with epoxy. I will send the pictures in a message. Failure of BASH board causes the resistors to burn like that and damage the board. thank you bro! Now I can try to restore it! I'm not sure I can do it fast, but I will write here about the results after... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaare Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 I have a Klipsch "SSUB10+05360296" (per the sticker) plate amp assy that is not working, not burnt, no visible damage, that I will give to someone who is willing to pay shipping from Seattle area. It does get a rumbling sound to the speaker but I am unwilling to spend the hours and $$ to fix it. Picture upon request. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudaindc Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) 23 hours ago, Kaare said: I have a Klipsch "SSUB10+05360296" (per the sticker) plate amp assy that is not working, not burnt, no visible damage, that I will give to someone who is willing to pay shipping from Seattle area. It does get a rumbling sound to the speaker but I am unwilling to spend the hours and $$ to fix it. Picture upon request. I will take you up on the offer - thanks! Please send me payment details. 🙂 Edited May 21, 2020 by dudaindc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alhim Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 As I said, all the power transistors in the sound amplifier and power supply turned out to be working! The only thing I could find fault with - you can see in the photos... Thank you again for your help! The owner of this device called me a magician and left very pleased(But it’s not about money). P.S. I have a bunch of exclusive stuff in the repair archives, therefore, I will be happy to help you with any information available. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 12 hours ago, alhim said: As I said, all the power transistors in the sound amplifier and power supply turned out to be working! The only thing I could find fault with - you can see in the photos... Thank you again for your help! The owner of this device called me a magician and left very pleased(But it’s not about money). P.S. I have a bunch of exclusive stuff in the repair archives, therefore, I will be happy to help you with any information available. I have to say, nice repair. I would not have thought to go old school and do point to point. For personal use, why not as long as it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 RPW-10 PLATE SI-00129 This plate is a trade in repair. I am trying to clean up my parts box that is overflowing, so I am going to start punching these out so I can get more organized. Typical repairs on this one. TH3 exploded, fets were shorted, PDC failed. Full recap and Q5 upgrade completes this one. The thru holes for the fets had damage from an attempted repair, so I had to freaking fix those. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A VACUUM DESOLDERING TOOL CUT THE DAMN LEADS AND SAVE THE THRU HOLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 RPW-10 PLATE A506220506 FINALLY, something different. This failure was not one I have seen before. C31 appears to have prematurely evacuated and caused all sorts of issues. Z2 was toasted, Q5 evaporated and R51 failed. The BASH board was taken out as well with a blown diode, transistor and the IC. The IC's are a pain in the *** to replace because of the glue or epoxy used to try and hide the UC3842 chip. The board did have some damage to the copper plane under the cap, probably from the electrolyte. This is a fairly easy spot to repair. Best guess, Q5 failed and took out the bash board and caused Z2 to fail. R51 then failed from heat due to the current draw. When the bash board stops working the voltage on C31 goes over 100V, which it is only rated for and that would cause the leakage. Normal voltage is around 90V. This is why on later revisions this cap was upgraded to a 160V version. It is still OK to use a 100V cap here, as long as the amp is working properly. Go 160V if you want to play it safe. As usual, glue removal and Q5 upgrade with a full recap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 SUB-12 PLATE Y9103700738 This was a pretty typical repair. The glue cancer took this one out. Fets, NTC, PDC and caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebighat99 Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hi, I have Klipsch sub 10, I replaced the IRF740 moSfet that was bad, took off most of the glue but in doing so I ripped off one of the capacitors C32, and I can no longer tell what the value is. So If someone here could kindly tell me witch cap I need it would be appreciated. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzionassi Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Greetings, I have AS-500 subwoofer amp with dead power supply, no visible damage on PCB any thoughts how much it would be to fix it? PCB 640038 rev5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 On 6/7/2020 at 2:03 PM, thebighat99 said: Hi, I have Klipsch sub 10, I replaced the IRF740 moSfet that was bad, took off most of the glue but in doing so I ripped off one of the capacitors C32, and I can no longer tell what the value is. So If someone here could kindly tell me witch cap I need it would be appreciated. Thank you I cannot see the pictures, but I will look that up when I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebighat99 Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 On 6/22/2020 at 4:14 PM, ngen33r said: I cannot see the pictures, but I will look that up when I can. I posted pictures did i do something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 On 7/5/2020 at 8:04 PM, thebighat99 said: I posted pictures did i do something wrong? Not showing, but C32 is 0.1uF 100V ceramic https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kemet/C430C104K1R5TA7200/399-4503-1-ND/818360 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Vince Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 Thanks ngen33r! Your info helped me repair my Sub-12 and it sounds great. It was blowing fuses; I rebuilt the PDC board, recapped it, replaced the FETs and TH3. I also found the input diode bridge was shorted, so after replacing that, it's back in business. I could not have fixed it without this thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wetdog Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 (edited) On 7/10/2020 at 3:27 PM, ngen33r said: Not showing, but C32 is 0.1uF 100V ceramic https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kemet/C430C104K1R5TA7200/399-4503-1-ND/818360 Edited July 14, 2020 by Wetdog Duplicate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wetdog Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 On 7/10/2020 at 3:27 PM, ngen33r said: Not showing, but C32 is 0.1uF 100V ceramic https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kemet/C430C104K1R5TA7200/399-4503-1-ND/818360 Could we get a parts list. I am having issues finding the correct items. Digikey item numbers would be great. TH3 and other common items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miro19 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hello, I have a Klipsch RPW-10 in repair. Defective equipment - swollen PSU capacitors, damaged Q5, Z2. I applied all the recommended changes, but I do not know the type or zener voltage of the Z2 diode (it works with the Q5 transistor). The diode is burnt and the code cannot be read. Please help identify Z2 (zener type or voltage). Thank you very much in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 On 7/13/2020 at 9:33 PM, Wetdog said: Could we get a parts list. I am having issues finding the correct items. Digikey item numbers would be great. TH3 and other common items. There is no parts list. TH3 is a DSP104 10ohm 4A inrush limiter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miro19 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 On 28.07.2020 at 16:01, Miro19 said: Witam, mam w naprawie Klipsch RPW-10. Wadliwy sprzęt - spuchnięte kondensatory zasilacza, uszkodzone Q5, Z2. Zastosowałem wszystkie zalecane zmiany, ale nie znam typu ani napięcia Zenera diody Z2 (współpracuje z tranzystorem Q5). Dioda jest spalona i nie można odczytać kodu. Proszę o pomoc w identyfikacji Z2 (typ Zenera lub napięcie). Z góry bardzo dziękuję... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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