Prana-Bindu Posted April 28, 2001 Share Posted April 28, 2001 That's right. The right channel of my aging Luxman LV-117 (no, it's not the one with the tubed pre-amp section) integrated amplifier is frugal with its participation with the RF-3's; at least the one in charge of the right channel. The right channel cuts in and out at odd, but predictable moments. It plays well for a good hour or so after powering, then it quickly, but not immediately, loses the signal. Thereafter, the more dynamic portions of the sound at hand (be it from the cd player or the television) cause the amp to be faithful to its duty during, and only during, those dynamic passages. For example, when watching one of those contemporary flicks on the tele (from a cable signal) that emphasize the soundtrack by peppering the movie with music videos -- the musicals of the current youth -- and one of the songs emphasized by the flick gains volume as the primary track of the scene, the song comes through in two channels without distortion or an erratic signal. Then, when the video simmers down and we are taken back to the laughable dialogue and absurd situations, the right channel retires and the left is holding the bag that was the soundstage. Increasing the volume does not solve or remedy the problem, but enabling "loudness" (emphasis of the lower and upper regions of the frequency range) seems to put off the inevitable for a half-hour or so when listening to the cd-player (guided by voices kicks sea-bass' ***). I know it's not the RF-3's, because I got the same crap from headphones out of the amp (and I got no problems with headphones out of the CD player, if you were worried about it...). So I was hopin' somebody could give me a start on how to diagnose the bastard LV-117, so I won't have to play the non-refundable-downpayment-slow-deduction-game with Custom Electronics. Point me to the tools and the disease, and I'll do the cutting (or soldering, as it were). Distant One suggested some time ago that the right channel might be subject to DC contamination arising from a dry connection somewhere, but I wouldn't be able to figure it out where to look more closely than the electronics accessible by merely removing the top of the case (which revealed nothing obviously wrong to my totally ignorant examination). Please, if you have such knowledge, share with an idiot who has commited to purchasing a vehicle prior to ordering the Wright 2A3 monoblocks and the Wright line stage. Save me from a summer of struggle! Thanks for your time. ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 30, 2001 Share Posted April 30, 2001 This does sound like a connection problem. At high volume levels, the signal breaks through the insulation or bad connection. I'd cycle all switches and volume controls and plug and unplug all connecting wires. You seem to have eliminated the speaker wires by monitoring with headphones. Excuse me if this is intuitively obvious. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prana-Bindu Posted May 1, 2001 Author Share Posted May 1, 2001 Will: Intuitively obvious indeed, if you're not hopelessly ignorant as I am. Thank you for the beta. I actually made the embarrassing mistake of posting my problem twice. The other thread lead to the same advice. BobG actually recommended taking each switch and knob through it's range of motion 100 times! As I described the matter there, I'll have to do this repetition in private to avoid being institutionalized.... Thanks again! ------------------ May the bridges we burn light our way.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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