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Revised Horus Schematic (Ed, Chris, etc)


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I'm going to be at home tomorrow, and will take a little time to redraw an updated version of the Horus.

If you would like a copy, please email me your home address so I can send it. I have neither a digital camera nor any kind of scanner. I can have a copy made a Kinkos, and I'll make one for you.

There will be some flip-flopping in terms of the presentation, but the circuit will be intact accept for a little of relabeling of certain parts and voltages, as well as the few additions and omissions.

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Erik, I love you man, but huh?

If you can draw the schematic, fax it to me from any fax machine, it will be digitized into a tagged image file (TIF), and I'll just upload it to the site. Of course, the easiest route would be to scan it at home/school/office and upload the file, but I thought it would be easiest for you this way.

I sense I'm frustrating you today :)

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Chris:

Everything is cool here -- you are not frustrating me in the least. Honestly, that is the truth. I am just sort of learning disabled, challenged, or maybe just inexperienced with certain forms of communication that for most people is as common as paper and pencil. My wife sends FAXes via our computer all the time, but I have no freaking idea about how to do it. So, the easiest thing for me would be a hand-srawled schematic on a piece of paper that I plop into an envelope and place into the trusting hands of the USPS.

I can say without qualification that Jeff's selling those amps for the quoted price is a bargain, to say the least. The complicating factor is the fact that we know his work; have heard examples of what his amps sound like; we know him as a person; he is a friend on this Klipsch forum despite the fact that he doesn't use speaker designed by the family, Klipsch.

Describe an amp as a DIY product in a place like Audiogon -- or worse -- ebay, and lots of people are going to jump ahead to the next possibility. He is basically selling those amplifiers for the cost of the parts, which is what I'm going to do when I sell my Horus amps. The fact that they are, hands down, the best amplifiers I have ever built or used is beside the point; and I'm sure I will run into the type of inexperienced mindset that might infer something like, "If they're so great, how come ya wanna sell 'em, huh?!" Totally beside the point. I have literally been soldering since I was 5 years old, and learned to gas and arc weld when I was in 6th grade -- that was when I built a bike frame with motorcycle shocks! Pretty crazy looking thing, but for being in 6th grade and doing all the sawing and welding myself, not too bad of an effort. The point is, that building is a joy and an important process for me. Once a project is done, I'm already thinking about the next one. I didn't just have a "what the hell, maybe I'll build the damn thing" attitude with the Horus. I have found that if one starts out with rather low expectations of something, less than fine quality can sometimes be inadvertantly built into whatever that thing is -- sort of the self-fulfilling-prophecy syndrome. I had studied the Horus for a long time before I ever decided to build it; and that Jeff asked me if I would consider carrying on the tradition for others was the perfect opportunity. That it is an extremely simple amplifier is only in its favor, in this instance.

There was another 2A3 amplifier that someone asked about on this forum recently -- one built using aluminum picture frame stock as the chassis. The builder was unknown; the wiring was described as really good (I didn't think it was); and although the transformers were of good quality, the other parts were really very mediocre. Moveover, to have any kind of warranty on the amp or make repairs would have been expensive as hell. It also had some sort of really strange dampening device on it, which enabled the seller to call it a "non resonant chassis." Bull poop! There is no reason someone should have to do that in order to make a good single ended amp, or any amp for that matter, quiet. Makes me think transformer laminations might have been making lots of noise, and that rubber damping material (which would also act like insulation and possibly cause heat build up)was used to keep the chattering and vibration down.

I would rather Jeff's 300B amplifier didn't have a volume control on it, although the control itself is a good one. I have put attenuators on amplfiers before, and I don't like what they do (for me). I would take it out and put a 100K ohm on the grid to ground and be done with it. But some might really want the advantage of having some control over the gain of the amp, and this one would be good to use with a digital source going straight into the amps.

By the way, Chris, removing the variable resistor (see schematic) on the Horus diagram is one of the changes I will make today when I redraw it. Jeff doesn't use it on this amp any more, either.

Erik

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Thanks for that Ed!

Ok, why don't we do that. I'll make a copy of what I've just finished and send it to you. There are just some minor changes, as I have said; and are really just sort of 'academic'. I have not touched the actual design, accept in the case of the W.E. (or Ultrapath) connection between the top of the 2A3 cathode resistor and bottom of the OPT primary. Leok's name is next to that revision. A couple of values in capacitors were very slightly changed in order to keep my voltages within a close % of the original. I also added a dropping resistor in series (with an additional filter capacitor in parallel)with the 5687 heater supply in order to lower the voltage by approx. 1 volt, which on heaters is lots more important than B+ voltages.

And that's about it.

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