classybum Posted February 1, 2001 Share Posted February 1, 2001 Alright.. I know that this isn't technically a how too board.. but i need something to hold me over til I can put some money together for a real klipsch sub.. maybe one of those RSW-12s when they come out. So here's my question: What is the best box style? I'm pulling a 12" rockford fosgate out of my car and right now its sharing an enclosure with 2 5.25" 3 three way speakers. I want to build it a dedicated box for integration into my slowly building home theatre. I really just want to know if there are any great advantages to porting the box. I know that most (if not all) commercially purchased subs are ported.. but I really don't know if i care to put in the extra work of porting the box if i don't have to. So.. anyone know the plus/minuses of porting a box? thanks for any info.. oh yeah.. and my first chance to attempt a brag on my system: Technics SA-DX940 klipsch KSB 3.1 mains klipsch ksc-c1 center crap rears and soon i want KLIPSCH RP-5s for the mains!! few months maybe.. oh.. and oops.. i thought i was in teh powered subwoofer section.. ahhh well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Bob Posted February 2, 2001 Share Posted February 2, 2001 Try calling Rockford Fosgate at 800-669-9899, I'm not sure if this number is still good, haven't used it for a couple of years. Their techs will tell you exactally what sized box to build for a seald or ported system. All you need to know is your woofer model #. -Fat Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Phillips Posted February 3, 2001 Share Posted February 3, 2001 That would be the best thing to do. I have used 2 Kicker Comp.12"subs in 2 2.5 cu.ft.sealed boxes for 5 or 6 years now.They were ment to be sealed box subs. In my last home with a 12'X24'X 7.5' room they were only 2dB down at 20hz and powered with a 190 X 2 amp.I have thought of getting some "real"subs,but why?These never have let me down. Sealed subs to me are more musical than ported,ported better for HT,but not for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audio Flynn Posted February 3, 2001 Share Posted February 3, 2001 Like the 3.1s but prefer the grills of the Reference series. Klipsch should offer a retrofit to the metal grill. Consider an easy sub kit from partsexpress.com 1.0 inch thick MDF construction. HSU research has a good one for $ 599. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
classybum Posted February 3, 2001 Author Share Posted February 3, 2001 DAMN!!! thanks so much for that link to partsexpress.com. I think i might add two passive woofers like the new klipsch subs and forget the port entirely!! that will let me drop the box volume and kick up the output a bit too, right? also... a misc. question... i was probably going to use 3/4" mdf for whatnot.. or maybe particle board. i dont think that the home depot by me had the mdf when i built my car box. Is using a table saw to cut the box pieces a definite? Also.. how have you guys made the speaker hole? i just grabbed a sabre saw and used that because it was handy, and it seemed to work fine. Anyone have any luck flushmounting the sub? it hink that would be ideal, but i can't figure out a way to do it. hah.. maybe grab my chisel and groove out a lip to recess the speaker.. who knows. ahhhh.. either way.. thanks for the help, and i'm glad to hear that others have built their own subs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Phillips Posted February 4, 2001 Share Posted February 4, 2001 My boxes were already built and only $100 each.I'll have to get back to you on where they came from.They were flush mount w/grill and finished in light Oak,on a riser base.Just had to cut a small hole for the speaker terminal.Put it in the bottom and used speaker spikes. The cat.is at work. You will still have to use exact calculations on box size even when using a passive radiator.But you knew that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
classybum Posted February 4, 2001 Author Share Posted February 4, 2001 yeah, i knew about using exact calculations. The box volume will be as close as i can get to 1.75 cu. ft. And i will factor in the volume of the amp too. And steve, maybe i'll take your comments to heart and spring for a larger amp. But.. $100 for teh box isn't too bad, i think thats the cheapest i've found them. On the other hand, it will cost me about $25 for the materials and maybe 3 hours work.. plus i get the woodworking experience, so i'll probably just stick with building the box.. but thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Phillips Posted February 4, 2001 Share Posted February 4, 2001 One thing I forgot.You are using a passive radiator.That's very close to using a port.Point is you will not need as much power to drive a ported sub as you do a sealed sub.The amp size you said you were looking at might be enough. Make sure you check partexpress close out and sale section.I've seen their sub amps on sale at great prices.I got the one you are looking into to replace the dead amp in a ported 12"sub box I use through my surround outs behind my couch.Seems to work well for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
classybum Posted February 5, 2001 Author Share Posted February 5, 2001 about the amp size.. i think i will go ahead and get a bigger amp. UNLESS... hehe.. i found an amp with a remote!! but it only puts out 150watts..... grr it appeals to the lazy side of me way too much. I'll probably opt for more power though.. ultimately a better choice. thanks for all the help though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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