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Do you allow 24" from walls for your Klipsch?


TroyTN

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I have the RF-7's and the owners manual suggests the main speakers be a minimum of 24" from the front wall and 24" from the side walls. I have moved them 12" and 24" and I cannot tell much difference. Does anyone have theor Klipsch speakers less then the recommended 24" from both front and side walls?

I would think farther apart and pointed directly at the listening position would have better stereo imaging.

I think Klipch speakers are better facing directly at the listener..

Your thoughts on the distance from front and side walls and the towing in of the main speakers for stereo imaging..

My speakers are 9' apart and I sit 13 feet from them. If I move them 24" from the side walls per the recommendation They are only 7 feet apart.

Thanks.

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Troy...

This message has been edited by TroyTN on 08-11-2001 at 10:24 PM

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The primary listening seat should be twice as far away from the speakers as the speakers are from each other. The resulting triangle pattern forms a wide triangle.

If you sit 13 feet away from them, try your speakers about 6 ot 7 feet apart from each other ...

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big old Cornwalls, Bottlehead 2A3 Paramour tube amps, Dynaco series II tube pre-amp, Rotel CD player, KSW200 & LF10 subs

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Troy -

One of the reasons for the recommendation is that they have a rear port on the speakers. If you move them closer to the walls the bass will become more pronounced. The further away from walls the bass should be tighter because the speakers can breathe. I had my RF3's about 20" away from the walls and 9' apart with my listening postion about 11' away because that is where I thought they sounded best.

The manual offers suggestions but really the only opinion that matters is yours. I spent several days and many movies before I decided on the final resting spot for my RF3's and I am going through the same process with the Cornwall's. Hope this helps :-)

Laters,

------------------

Main System -

CORNWALLS (circa '79 yippe)

RC-3

RS-3's (white)

SVS 20-39CS

Harman Kardon AVR 510

Hafler P505 (running bridged 800W/4 ohms for sub)

ProMedia 4.2 v400 for PC

Bedroom -

KG4's or RF-3's (haven't decided yet)

Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

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my klf-30 are 7" from the back wall & i find it's fine for good & tight bass. can't move 'em out anymore due to space but did find moving them in closer from 7" did

begin muddying the bass some.

the cornwalls though are fine just a 3 in. from the backwall. on them the port's in the front.

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Klipsch KLF 30 (front), KLF C7, Cornwall I (rear)

Velodyne HGS-18 sub woofer

Monsterbass 400 sub interconnect & Monster CX-2 biwire & Z1 cable

Marantz SR-8000 receiver

Sony DVP-C650D 5-disk cd/dvd player

Sony Trinitron 27" stereo tv

Toshiba hi-fi stereo vcr

Technics dual cassette deck

Scientific Atlanta Explorer 2100 digital cable box

Boa's Listenin Lounge:

Klipsch RF-3, RC-3

Monster MCX Biwires

Sony STR-DE935 a/v receiver

Kenwood KR-9600 AM/FM stereo receiver (vintage 1975)

Russound AB-2 receiver switch to RF-3

Teac PD-D1200 5-disk cd changer

Technics SL-1950 turntable/AT LS500 cartridge

rock on!

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Generally the listening position should be slightly greater than the distance between the loudspeakers, However, every room is different, the manufacturers suggested placement is the best place to start but plenty of experimentation is a good idea including toeing them in, facing them directly forward, varying distances from the wall etc. I once had a situation where the speakers actually sounded best toed out. You have to find whats best for your individual room and tastes and this can only be done by experimentation. Sometimes whats best is not practical as when a speaker ends up in the way of a door. This is yet another reason why you should attempt to arrange with the dealer to try out different models in your room before you buy. With my Klipschorns I had to use the only available corners (actually I had to move a door!) and then apply acoustical treatments (diffusion panels placed where the loudspeakers reflected off the side walls were particularly effective) to the room until I got it right! Of course if you have money to burn you can also construct an addition to your house to produce a dedicated room according to certain formulas that are available. Ill have to wait for my Lottery win to do that.

HT-1

Klipschorns w/ ALK crossover upgrades

4 Klipsch LaScalas (surround & rears)

Heresy components in custom cabinet /monitor stand (center)

Panasonic 32 Monitor W/ component video input

3 Sony CX400 CD changers

Sony CX-200 CD Changer

Nirvis Slink-e computer interface (downloads cd track info, album covers, some notes and lyrics, programs & controls changers).

Nirvis DXS digital controller (auto selection of whatever source is playing)

Nirvis CDJ (CD Jukebox Software)

Sony Viao Laptop Computer

Sony S530D DVD Player

Sony 798HF VCR

Sony XA1ES CD player

Dynaco PAS4 stereo preamp W/ Tesla Tube upgrades (also outputs to HT2)

Technics SL3300 DD Turntable w/ Shure cartridges

Outlaw 1050 6.1 A/V Receiver

Perpetual Technologies P1A Digital Correction Engine (jitter reduction, 16 to 24 bit conversion, future speaker frequency correction, and room acoustic correction )

Perpetual Technologies P3A DAC ( plus 44.1k to 96k CD upsampling)

Klipsch KSW-15 sub (for DVD LFEs )

Klipsch LF-10 sub (rarely use with music)

Phillips Pronto TS2000 Programmable Remote

Scientific American Explorer 2000 Home Communications Terminal

X10 computerized lighting controls

Radio Shack Wireless Remote Control Extender

HT#2

4 Klipsch KT-LCR THX Speakers

4 Klipsch RS-3s (side & rear surround)

2 Klipsch KT-DS THX Surrounds

10 Linaem Tweeters

Outlaw 1050 6.1 A/V Receiver/Preamp

Outlaw 750 5 channel Amp

MSB Technology Digital Director w/ jitter reduction

Sony X111 ES CD Player

Sony 775HF VCR

Sony STR-G3 (supplemental amplification for extra speakers)

Toshiba 61 High Definition TV

Sony NS700 Progressive Scan DVD

Toshiba 4205 DVD Changer

Klipsch SW-12II Sub

Klipsch LF-10 sub

Sony AV2100 remote

Scientific American Explorer 2000 Home Communications Terminal

X10 Computerized Lighting

Vibrapods (vibration isolation for components)

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