ross Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 need specs for building custom enclosure for my truck. port dimensions would be very helpful. thankyou. i can come close on internal space off the web but cannot find anything on the port dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scp53 Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 the rw 12 isnt designed for cars or trucks. its a home sub. besides, where are you going to get the driver from? scp53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 putting an rw12 in your truck is bad idea, while in theory they do the same, a car sub is designed a lot differntly, an rw12 requires a great deal more of resonating space than a traditional car sub, not to mention that the rw 12 uses its own amp which pretty much makes most of the sound quality, those amps were designed in conjunction with that driver, the rw line uses bash amps, go to bashaudio.com and maybe you could buy an amp from there, but i would not reccomend doing this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 well if he already has the driver, then why not? One thing to be aware of is the insane cabin gain in a car, versus a normal room for which the driver was built. How will this affect you? Probably not at all because the klipsch subs use an EQ to help them get their good frequency response...so in a sense your car will almost be acting like the new EQ. Granted, this isn't exactly a good scientific method of design, but how accurate do you want this to be? I would suggest just building a cabinet to a similar volume as the specs on the site and then just throw in a port tuned near 20Hz, but make the port adjustable in length (PVC works good for this). A quick websearch should find you lots of information on how to decide port diameter and size. http://www.diysubwoofers.org/ comes to mind. Once you get a starting point, I would then experiment with different tunings that gets you the best response possible in your car. A CD with test tones and an SPL meter would be a good cheap place to start. If you don't already have the RW-12, then I might suggest looking over at http://www.adireaudio.com as they have some very killer sounding subs (and they're not that expensive). Perhaps you could use the funds from selling the RW-12 to fund a new sub. They also have suggested designs on their site for all their drivers as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross Posted February 26, 2005 Author Share Posted February 26, 2005 what is the differance between a car sub and a home sub. the perameters on all car subs are different from one another.you get them from klipsch parts.they are cool looking. i have jl in there now ,like to try different things. i am going to try it tomorrow. let you know how it sounds. i am using a jl mono block amp. have you seen the amp inside of a klipsch sub? not a lot of engineering in there. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 In a vehicle, low frequencies are boosted by close to 12 db/ octave below 50-60 hz, depending on the interior size and dimentions. Most car subwoofers actually will roll off fairly high, leaving the boost of the interior to provide reinforcement of the lowest frequencies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 ---------------- On 2/27/2005 2:34:54 AM michael hurd wrote: In a vehicle, low frequencies are boosted by close to 12 db/ octave below 50-60 hz, depending on the interior size and dimentions. Most car subwoofers actually will roll off fairly high, leaving the boost of the interior to provide reinforcement of the lowest frequencies. ---------------- exactly! thats better than i could have ever explained it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 It depends on what you are trying to accomplish really. If you are looking for a maximally flat frequency response, then try to avoid an alignment that will create a large hump in the response in the vehicle. A vented enclosure has little control over the cone below it's tuning frequency. A sealed enclosure will have better control over the cone at low frequencies. A vented enclosure will be more efficient, requiring less amplifier power vs. a sealed enclosure with the same subwoofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross Posted February 27, 2005 Author Share Posted February 27, 2005 but is it not the tuned frequency of the enclosure that creates your curve you desire and the cabin gain. so it should not matter what sub i am using. if i had the Thiel-Small parameters i could design a box better suited for a car enviroment. most manufactures provide these except i am having a hard time getting them from klipsch. i use car subs in my home setup. but the box is built for the house and not my car. best bass i have heard. i have 2 jl 15w3's in sono tube with a divider in the center. one chamber tuned higher for impact and the other chamber tuned lower for the bottom end. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross Posted February 27, 2005 Author Share Posted February 27, 2005 i tryed it out today and listened to it for an hour. it kickes butt. hits hard, goes deep. no overhang, not muddy. can hear a little vent noise. but should be able to take care of that with some lining on the walls. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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