Speaker gasketing

[Kriton]

OK, after researching this here, I chose (was really forced) to replace the paper thin old speaker gasketing that came on my Cornwall II's when rebuilding them. I chose to go with 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide foam rubber weatherstripping. The stuff goes on well, and I am sure it will last a long time, but it is just too darn thick...Yes, the screws pull the speakers down and squish the gasket in place, but without cracking the plastic horn enclosures, the horns and woofer stick out a good 1/16 from the surface of the speaker face, which will interfere with the grills when I finally get them back on...I am concerned about sonic effect (which I can't see that there could be any?) and the relative soldity of the speaker mounting (will there be more vibration with the speakers off the face this much, searate by a rubber piece of weatherstripping?)

Also the speaker surrounds are misshapen by the uneven placement of the screws around the enclosre (especially the tweeter, whose screws in each corner, and none in the centers, have pulled the crners of the horn in and the middles are left bulging outward).

ANy suggestions on a thinner but airtight material to do this gasketing?

Thanks!

K

[ZAKO]

Cardboard?

[michael hurd]

Good suggestion Maron! You could use thin cardboard, like the stuff used to make cereal boxes, use a pair of scissors and an exacto / utlity knife. As an alternate, you could use the rope caulking that is used for weatherstripping, and people here recommend for damping horn resonance.

[DrWho]

I wouldn't worry too much about the gasket being air tight. More air is going through the pleated paper surround than would ever "leak" through under the driver. I'm curious though what other reasons for using a gasket might be. I can see it reducing cabinet vibrations, but I can also see it slightly reducing output as well (I'm picturing the woofer basket getting pushed back when the diaphragm moves forward).

[ZAKO]

Its more to give a even seat all the way around the steaker basket with out warping.

[mungkiman]

You could use plumbers putty. Just roll it onto a thin "snake" and place it between the horn lens and motorboard. Airtight, watertight , thin as you want, and it will never adhere permanently to either surface.

Chris

[D-MAN]

This is going to cause some consternation...

Back in the 70's a speaker manufacturer of DIY stuff recommended that in lieu of using screws to mount the driver, silicone sealant was used instead. Instant air-tight seal and the driver wasn't going anywhere, either.

This was because all of the problems associated with nimnuls getting a steel screw driver (this was the good ol' days) close to a strong magnet and ZOOP - right through the paper cone...

They would remove drivers mounted with silicone with a knife...

Works great. Harms nothing and screw holes NEVER wear out.

DM

[DrWho]

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...Harms nothing and screw holes NEVER wear out.

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That's what T-Nuts are for