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RC-7 binding post?


kelA

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Ok guys, I just picked up my new RC-7. So here's my dilemna, the black (-) binding post for the low frequency side does not tighten down, it just continues to turn. Do you guys think that it is broken completely off on the inside? Also, when connecting the speaker wire, is it best to connect the speaker wire to the two center posts (one post for HF, the other for LF) or just connect (+,-) to either the HF side or LF side. Does it really matter since the jumpers are in place?

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As long as the jumpers are in place, it doesn't matter if the speaker wire goes to HF or LF.

It sounds like your binding post is broken. I'll leave it to someone else to advise on the best way of getting it fixed.

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Guest Anonymous

Can't say if it is completely broken off or not? However, I had a similar problem on a Klipsch subwoofer where the thread was just stripped. (My only beef with the Klipsch Synergy and Reference series is the cheap binding posts!) Short term I used a few lock washers which gave me enough resistance to tighten the connection to make contact. Long term, I had to replace the termination/binding post block.

Your other question referes to bi-wiring. I beleive most here on the forum think bi-wiring is magic dust, while a few swear by it. Just DO NOT bi-wire and leave the jumper on!

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Guest Anonymous

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On 7/7/2005 6:58:32 PM Shade wrote:

As long as the jumpers are in place, it doesn't matter if the speaker wire goes to HF or LF.

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So there is no confusion, he is correct.

In my previous response, I failed to clearly address your original question. (Skip the bi-wire reference.)

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