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Quick technical question on IR repeater's coverage...


formica

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I'm finishing up the prewiring for my Audio room... and I've foreseen

for a (hardwired) IR repeater system. I'd like to place an

emitter close to my remote controlled light dimmer, so it too can be

activated through the same repeater.

I have not been able to find a technical drawing showing the angle of

coverage for these little LED emitters. Before I install the

gypsum, I'd like to know where on the ceiling or walls I should leave

wires for it?

I was figuring of installing it on the ceiling, about 1 foot directly

in front of the light switch. Anyone have experience with these... and

how well this may work?

Thanks...

ROb

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Rob,

You would need a IR 'blaster' for that to hit the light switch. *But* you could run into a problem with the blaster also hitting the receiver....

Do you have your dimmer(s) already? If not get PCS 'SceneMaster' dimmers. They run off X10 (signals on the power lines) and you use an IR-X10 converter box to send signals to the dimmers.

What is great about the PCS dimmers is you can program multiple scenes in the dimmers such that you send one command and the lights will automatically go to the lighting level set in that scene at whatever ramp rate you programmed. Numerous dimmers can response to the same command so you can have various lights in different zones moving to different levels at different rates very very easily. They can move fluidly to whatever the scene lighting calls for no matter where their current lighting level is.

Much nicer then attempting to do the same thing through IR with macros.

Shawn

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My limited experience with the repeaters is they have a rather narrow

coverage pattern, but I'm sure it's different for every brand. In one

situation we had to literally tape the repeater to the reciever (good

thing we were only trying to control one source).

I bet if you gave these companies a phone call they would be able to tell you.

I think you should also have the option of having multiple emitters

connected to the same repeater...at least all the units I've worked

with have had connections for this.

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Two positive points are:

1) my light switch is located at the rear of my room, about 30' behind

my screen wall, and 20' behind my equipment rack. An IR blaster

would have very little effect on my other components

2) I have not yet purchased any dimmer or IR equipment.

I realised I was going to need some sort of IR repeater system when I

started looking at projectors. Given I was going to have an IR

system in place, I though why not throw in a single IR dimmer so that

we can get comfortable and turn the lights off from our seat. My

girlfriend thought I was being "fussy" ... but I was already sold on

the convenience versus the low cost (one emitter + one dimmer).

When I did a little research on IR repeaters and had come across X10

tech as well... started thinking of the possibilities, very neat

stuff. If I understood correctly though, I would

still need a IR repeater system for the AV equipment as well as an

additional X10 system. Given that it's so simple to retro fit, I

kinda figured that I'd keep it simple to start with and add it later if

I want.

I'm trying to spread out my costs, as I'd like to upgrade several of my

AV components (projector, pre-pro, 2chn amp, power cond., etc...) in

the very near future just to get my system up to par.

ROb

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Rob,

"I would still need a IR repeater system for the AV equipment as well as an additional X10 system. Given that it's so simple to retro fit, I kinda figured that I'd keep it simple to start with and add it later if I want. "

Yes, you will need the IR repeater equipment anyway.

As far as the dimmer goes though go with X10 off the bat, it might be cheaper then the IR dimmer solution and it certainly can do a lot more.

Literally all you need is the PCS dimmer ($80ish), an IR-X10 bridge ($20ish) and for initial programming of the dimmer you either need a 'Maxi' controller ($20ish) or a device to plug into your computer to allow you to program the dimmer through PCS's software.

I haven't looked at the IR dimmers in awhile but the Lutron IR dimmer used to cost about $150 and it couldn't do scenes or any of the cool functions that the PCS can do. Once you have the PCS setup you can program your remote to send a scene command when you hit play that will dim down your lights to movie level.... will bring them up somewhat on pause and will bring them up to full house lighting when you hit stop. Trust me... when you see it in action it is very slick and really makes the atmosphere more like a theater.

You can't automate lighting like that with the IR based controllers.

Shawn

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an IR-X10 bridge ($20ish)

I must have looked at the wrong bridge units as I had figured they were $120ish after my quick search.

I haven't looked at the IR dimmers in awhile but

the Lutron IR dimmer used to cost about $150 and it couldn't do scenes

or any of the cool functions that the PCS can do

I can get a basic Lutron model for about 50$cnd, but it won't do ANY of

the fancy scene things... which require the "master controller".

I've wired for an emitter next to the switch, and for two receivers up

front... I guess that'll leave me time to choose when I'm into the

finishing.

ROb

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And speaking of just checking... everything you need for $99....

http://www.homeautomationnet.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=446

That is mighty attractive... I may have to re-look into it, esp

if I find a Canadian or x-border friendly retailer (like

www.smarthome.com) with something similar to offer.

BTW, I wanted to thank you for all your help so far in building my

room. Even though you are going to get me into all kinds of

trouble... you've saved me a ton of time in getting there.[;)]

ROb

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Rob,

Smarthome sells are the parts you would need too. I think they are

slightly more expensive though. IMO the extra cost for the Scene based

dimmer over the IR is well worth it. The lighting effects in the room

are a huge 'wow' factor and really do add to the theatrical experience.

The house lights dimming down over 30 seconds at the start of a movie

is great and I have them take 60 seconds to come full up when the movie

is over. You can even set *long* times.. up to 30 minutes I think. I

have one in our bedroom with a 30 minute dim up to half brightness on

our main lights in there. Great alarm clock in the middle of winter.

"BTW, I wanted to thank you for all your help so far in building my room."

You are very welcome, glad I could help.

" Even though you are going to get me into all kinds of trouble... you've saved me a ton of time in getting there.""

It has been said before that I am a bad influence....... ;)

Shawn

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