DrWho Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 For what it's worth....there is nothing inherantly wrong about a "car audio subwoofer" for use in the home - provided the T/S params indicate good performance without requiring room gain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 And how can you tell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 model it? I would start by looking at high Xmax and an Fs below 26Hz. For a 12" driver, you'd want VAS to be above 90L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Oh, makes sense... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 most car subwoofers (the ones made exclusive to cars) don't have anything below 32 hertz The adire tumult was a car subwoofer that was at one point a great home sub..... now its pretty anemic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Yeah, on some other thread, you explained that Jay...you had pics and everything.... http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/10/810456/ShowThread.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennyE Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 My old man has planted the idea in my head that I get the FUSION subwoofer reconed and replace the voice coil (apparently this only costs about 1/3 of the value of the sub) becasue when it was working it hammered really well......just had some reliability isues! If I do get it reconed I think I might put it back in a sealed box or port the box I have now to a lower frequency to protect the cone more. Then I could wire it in series (8ohm load) and put the 30hz filter back in place. With all these safty measures I reckon the sub might just hold out. (especially if I go abit easier on the volume) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 BAH!! What's the fun in that??? Besides, an I'm sure you know this, Fusion stuff isn't exactly that great....I mean yeah, sure it works, but even a square Kicker sub is better for sure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 The alignment you have right now looks pretty good - with your 30Hz filter, tuning lower actually won't protect the driver more (because of the excursion peak above the tuning frequency). If anything, tune it a bit higher - and keep off that volume control. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennyE Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 lol yeh the volume control is probably the part i really gotta look out for! And cheapo fusion or not, when this things was in a box tuned to 28hz (quite high!) and getting that much power, it hammered very hard. No matter what brand name, big surface area and excursion capabilities = more bass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Meh, I gots a Kicker sub in a box tuned to 60hz. It kicks butt too, especially in a small car like a Ford Mustang....But yeah, I'm sure you could pull the cone out yourself and have a repair shop put a new one in without anything else, or you could try and keep the old VC/cone/spider assembly if whoever repairs the thing will let you....pics would be fun. Besides, its enjoyable to pull apart a speaker. I pulled a blown Infinity 8" IMG woofer apart (out of a Sterling SS2004) and was intrigued to find dampening under the spider, I guess to reduce backwaves off the spider itself. Very surprising. You never know what might be found.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennyE Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 Lol damping under the spider eh? lol it's always good to know that your money goes towards quality [] 60hz in a car is pretty much ideal for a car as under around 60hz in most cars you get a 12db each octave you drop in frequency. In a room on the other hand a 60hz cut off sub would sound very very nasty (even for someone like me that isn't very picky) the 28hz tune for the FUSION was pretty high for my room! I defiantly believe that the kicker would destroy in a car tuned like that! Car audio is very, very fun because alot of people get into it, spend lots of money but don't have any know how at all (except for brands) like how my friend has 2 10" subs in his car in a properly tuned enclosure, that crushes other peoples bass systems that cost a lot more and use a lot more surface area. There is even a cr with 2 15" subs that drives around town (Holden wagon) that cannot stand up to his 2 10"s......namely because the 2 15"s are mounted in huge leaky sealed box. I also want ahead and emailed the car audio company that sold me the sub. I may yet get a refund/replacement. Any one got any technical issues that I can bring up in an email to help fight my case against mis guiding power handling figures? I'm sure im not the only one sick of subwoofers using 2.5" to 3" VC's and claiming mind numbing power figures that are just not possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 You could always crank up the volume to where you had it and then record the voltage going into the amp - then workout some math to show what the voltage on the output was and calculate the power draw at that level. Mention that you should have been able to put X volts into the amp when you only put in Y volts. X volts corresponds to 600W output where Y volts only corresponds to Z watts output. Then you can mention the enclosure side, the filter you were using, and demonstrate that it shouldn't have exceed Xmax. However, if in your research you discover that you actually overdrove the system *cough cough*, then I would just take it as an expensive lesson. Btw, you typically want to go with 4th order bandpass and sealed enclosure in the car, that way the natural rolloff of the sub matches the room gain of the cabin. Ported subs drop off at 18-24dB octave depending on the alignment. You probably also want to put a notch filter in front of the amp to take 6dB or so out at the cabin resonance of the vehicle - nothing more annoying than a one-note wonder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 brenny: Is destroy a good thing? Doc: I have a friend who hasthe kicker built dual 12 comp box, but from what I've heard, it is aone note wonder. Not so with my kicker. I'll look into putting thenotch filter on it, except i don't know the cabin resonance of themsutang.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennyE Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 in this context......yes..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 ok, that's nice to hear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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