rtomas Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 I'm stripping some antique white paint off of a pair of walnut Forte's. The front and back are the original black color but I'll need to at least touch up around the edges of the front and back. So I need to know what paint (brand, color, finish/sheen) to use or to try to approximate depending on what I can get in the small quantity I'll likely need. TIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Welcome to the Forum!! Let's assume that you may also try match the black in the event that trying to resurrect the walnut is unsuccessful. The factory uses Valspar at the moment. and I believe they used Valspar when the Forte's were made. Valspar #40 sheen black laquer primer (or a semi gloss laquer primer); Valspar #40 sheen black laquer; and the #40 clear. It may be difficult (it is very difficult...) to get the Valspar because the laquer is a commercial "production" product with a part number that is not normally found in Valspar outlets. What that means is Klipsch has contracted with Valspar to make these laquers for them and thus the part number relates to 55 gallon drums delivered to Hope. That being said, "semi-gloss" is the key. Most of the Valspar commercial/ consumer laquers available in their stores are #40/#41 sheen and the difference is not noticeable. Note that there are an increasing number of states where the sale of laquer is now prohibited (powerful fumes can make you see dancing Klipschorns....) You can also use other manufacturers, or also use polyurethane (which many forum members believe is a better, more reliable and easier to apply). Laquer application requires a spray gun, very, very good ventilation in a "paint booth" (to keep dust off the sprayed surfaces), the proper nozzles, thinner, etc. It's tricky and if you go the laquer route, make sure you have a good "gun", very good air, and practice!!! Rear panel, insets, and motor boards are primer with a clear coat only. The laquer and the clear are used on the sides and tops (after laquer priming) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtomas Posted October 2, 2007 Author Share Posted October 2, 2007 Welcome to the Forum!! Thanks! Let's assume that you may also try match the black in the event that trying to resurrect the walnut is unsuccessful. The factory uses Valspar at the moment. and I believe they used Valspar when the Forte's were made. Valspar #40 sheen black laquer primer (or a semi gloss laquer primer); Valspar #40 sheen black laquer; and the #40 clear. It may be difficult (it is very difficult...) to get the Valspar because the laquer is a commercial "production" product with a part number that is not normally found in Valspar outlets. What that means is Klipsch has contracted with Valspar to make these laquers for them and thus the part number relates to 55 gallon drums delivered to Hope. That being said, "semi-gloss" is the key. Most of the Valspar commercial/ consumer laquers available in their stores are #40/#41 sheen and the difference is not noticeable. Note that there are an increasing number of states where the sale of laquer is now prohibited (powerful fumes can make you see dancing Klipschorns....) You mean seeing dancing Klipschorns isn't normal? [] You can also use other manufacturers, or also use polyurethane (which many forum members believe is a better, more reliable and easier to apply). Laquer application requires a spray gun, very, very good ventilation in a "paint booth" (to keep dust off the sprayed surfaces), the proper nozzles, thinner, etc. It's tricky and if you go the laquer route, make sure you have a good "gun", very good air, and practice!!! Rear panel, insets, and motor boards are primer with a clear coat only. The laquer and the clear are used on the sides and tops (after laquer priming) Primer with a clear coat - that's what I was after. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 After all that!!! and all you really need is the primer and the clear!!! [] Hold on a second, the left Klipschorn is dancing off to the BeeGees Staying Alive.... The sound has the moving colors, wow!!!.... [:|] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtomas Posted October 3, 2007 Author Share Posted October 3, 2007 Yeah, I really just needed to know what to use to touch up around the edges of the front and back panels. They're masked off but there will be some touch up needed. Otherwise, I fully intend to "resurrect" the walnut. Using a chemical stripper, scraper, stripping pads, mineral spirits, and steel wool, I'm able to get about 99.9% of the paint off. It's just those tiny specs of paint down in the grain that are tough. I may resort to applying a walnut stain to color the remaining specs of paint. I definitely don't plan on painting the cabinets after working so hard to remove the existing paint. But I appeciate your explanation of the black finish for the tops and sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 dang GLA51, you've got this stuff down pat! I bet you know what glue and sanding discs we use at the Hope factory as well! M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 dang GLA51, you've got this stuff down pat! I bet you know what glue and sanding discs we use at the Hope factory as well! M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 dang GLA51, you've got this stuff down pat! I bet you know what glue and sanding discs we use at the Hope factory as well! M Yup, 5" PSA disks (no holes), and the glue, well..., it's yellow and comes in big barrels...[H] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtomas Posted February 13, 2008 Author Share Posted February 13, 2008 Ok, so I'm finally at the point where I need the paint for my Forte project. The Valspar website told me that I could find Valspar paint at my local Frazee and Dunn Edwards stores. After going to both, I've learned that the black lacquer isn't carried locally, it's pretty pricey and possibly only available in gallons, and lacquer must be sprayed - not brushed. I really just need to do some touch up. Before I stripped the paint off the Fortes, I masked off the fronts and backs so the only areas I need to touch up are a 3/16" strip around the outer edge of the backs, the inside edge of the front inset (where the side of the grills touch), and the inset on the bases. I'm thinking for what I need that I might be able to use a black semi-gloss from Home Depot as opposed to ordering #40 sheen black lacquer primer and #40 sheen clear in quantities larger than I need. Anyone have any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Oh yes... The dreaded "we only carry it in gallons and special order....." syndrome. Ok... A gallon is enough to do several pairs of Heresy's, Forte's, etc. and unless you are going to laquer everything in your house..... that would be too much. So another solution is is to use some semi-gloss automotive polyurethane/ or a household alkyd enamel in a spray can. And, since the areas are very "narrow", and the enamels will bind with the original laquer, it will work. First, wipe the surfaces off with a clean rag with some mineral spirits (very little, just barely damp). You need to do a very fast light coat, let it dry tacky, then a second quick coat. Let that dry for at least 4-6 hours, then a final quick coat. let that dry for 24 hours before pulling off the tape. As likely as not, you will not really be able to tell the difference. The enamels/urethanes, after they dry, should hold up just fine and if you wipe the surfaces down with a damp cloth every once in a while to remove any dust, etc., they will be fine. Key is let everything dry properly. Good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popbumper Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 The "dreaded" statement is real, but for better reasons than stated. Since the EPA has cracked down on VOC's (volatile organic carbons(s)), and lacquer is, well, pretty nasty stuff (includes toluene, acetone, and other goodies), lacquers in general have been "discontinued" as standard shelf items in most paint outlets. Supply and demand then dictates a price differential, which is substantial. Case in point - I bought a 5 gallon can of semi-gloss "industrial" black lacquer from Sherman-Williams last week. When the salesman quoted me $339 for the five gallons (that's ~ $68/gallon for those keeping score), I balked. He finally drove the price down to $137, MUCH more reasonable, but still pricey when compared to enamels, latexes and the like. Sadly, lacquer is one of the BEST paints to work with - I am using this black to paint some pinball cabinets, and after four coats with some sanding in between, the results are outstanding. Lacquers dry quickly, flow beautifully, sand easily, and reveal flaws - which is good, if you are concerned about finish quality, because you can't hide anything. Given the cost and limitations, it's really not practical for use here. A spray can enamel works great in a pinch, just do some simple surface prep as Groomlake suggested. A much easier prep method would be to wipe the surface down with a clean rag lightly soaked in Naphtha, which will remove all traces of grease, oil and fingerprints. Follow this with a tack rag to remove any dust (available at automotive supply stores), tape off, and you are ready to paint. Good luck! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtomas Posted February 15, 2008 Author Share Posted February 15, 2008 Thanks for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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