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JoeG83

Diagram of Wire Connections of Input Plug to Subwoofer?

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I was wondering if anyone had a diagram or knew the wire/color setup of the input plug from the main right speaker to the subwoofer. What happened was the wires somehow broke off from the input plug into the subwoofer and the only way access the wires to connect them again to the metal input was to cut the wires and solder them back to the input but I forgot to look out how the wires were setup/connected to it, can anyone please help?

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http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/87492/1030331.aspx#1030331

Remember this is a diagram of the male plug.

The female is reverse order, #1 being to the right of alignment plug going clockwise.

Not to say your a rookie, but too many people put the male and female out in front of them and number both the same way.

If you follow the male number one pin into the female, see where it goes and you get the idea.

I suggest anybody take a digital multimeter/volt meter and test female outs 2 and 6 for 15 volts.. One to test you have power and two, to understand if these go anywhere but to their intended destinations you just fried some electronics.

This in a non standard application that one can only surmise is to increase parts sales when the do it yourself-er fries his circuits, mush like Dell did with their power supplies.

Green is never a positive volt rail

I have just bought these speakers discounted because of the missing din plug. I have yet to validate for myself and of the info presented in the link. Let you know tomorrow.

7.1

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DIN Plug replacement 101
Tools Needed:
Helping Hands Hobby Tool holder, you know, the things with the magnifying glass and alligator clips.
Soldering Iron and Solder (.022 Diameter Recommended)
Hot Glue Stick and Hot Glue Gun.
Electrical Tape
Wire Cutters and Strippers
Needlenose pliers
Voltage Meter
Rubber Cement or some flexible glue
Step by Step Replacement of how I do it.
1: Cut off old Plug
2: take apart DIN plug and place the outer plastic part of the plug over the cable with large end facing cut off plug
3: Strip 5/8" off the cable exposing the internal wiring
4: pull back the metal shielding and tape it to the cable to keep it out of the way
5: Strip only about a 1/32" off of each wire.
6: Using the soldering iron and solder, Solder a little bit of solder into each of the 6 pins (be careful that no lead touches a neighboring pin)
7: Start Soldering the Color Coded wires to there Corrisponding Pins. on the side that that you are soldering the pins go clockwise from the space.
(pin1=Green) (pin2=orange) (pin3=Brown) (pin 4=red) (pin5=yellow) (pin6=black)
8: Test each pin with a voltage meter to make sure that no pins have contact with a neighboring pin, and also take apart the Control Pod carefully and test with a voltage meter from the pins on the plug to the connectors on the opposite side of the plug that is inside the pod to make sure you have a good connection all the way up.
9: put the Metal portion of the plug together and wrap some tape around it to hold it in place and insulate from heat.
10: Fill the metal section and wiring with Hot Glue to the top of the metal and let set for a few minutes.
11: untape the Metal Shielding and evenly spread it around the metal housing
12: put one section of the inner plastic plug casing in place matching it with the grooved edge to the side of the plug with the bump, then place a little hot glue inside of that piece to hold the cable, then put hot glue in the other side of the plastic inner shielding and put that on as well.
13: use Rubber Cememnt or Flexable glue and place a good ammount all around the cable up to about an inch away from the inner plastic plug and then slide the outer portion of the plug over it, lining up the bump on the plug to the groove on the inner plug (do not slide it all the way down "flush" slide it till it is about 3/32" away from the end of the plug) that way it will make better contact and hold in the plug better.
with all these steps followed properly you should now have a fully functional control pod again, Congratulations!!!

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Wiring done! I failed to notice the missing fuse cap. Could not locate one locally, so I will need to call Klipsch and have them send one out. Mister_Clean has written good instructions that should make for a clean looking job.

I bought a 6' , 6 pin din (not a ps/2 not a keyboard or mouse cable) cable for 4 dollars,( the klipsch din input is narrow, buy a cable with the narrowest head or you may need to shave down the outer plastic just a bit) cut and stripped the wires, ohm tested the new cable for pin to color assignments and came out with one of the examples in the link I mentioned above. Soldered and insulated with heat shrinking tubes. Don't forget the shielding wires as it carries all speakers negative lines.

No soldering gun? I have used a method taught to me that has not failed. Strip about four inches of the outer jacket and two inches from each wire. Twist tightly the matching wires and fold and twist and fold and twist again. Tightly wrap with electrical tape. Take half the wires fold back and half the wires fold up and wrap the whole enchilada. Better than wire nuts, which you could use but its kind of bulky.

I'm sure the cable you buy will be standard, and pin 1 looking into the male plug (first one to the left of the alignment pin will be black wiring. to tie to klipsch's green wire. You can buy a suitable DMM for 4 dollars at Harbor Freight/Tools, among elseware. See M. Clean's #8 instruction. A DMM is the best insurance you can buy.

7.1

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Are you sure your in the right forum, My 2.1 is hard wired into the control pod. With the din plug using 5 of 6 pins and the sheilding/grounding wire for a total of 6 connections, along with a hard wired 1/8 inch stereo mini plug. I,m not saying your wrong, but I just have not heard of that configuration on a 2.1

7.1

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Your post is a real lifesaver!

I stripped the wire, then soldered connections as you indicated, starting with the green to the first left pin above the ground connection.

It works!

I didn't do the voltage meter test or the hot glue. I just put a little electrical tape around the connection. If I ever yanked the connection loose again, I figured all that glue would get in the way, although I guess I could melt it away with a soldering iron or glue gun.

Anyway, thanks for your really valuable information.

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I'm 100% sure. I've attached a picture. There are 9 pins, but only 7 are visible, here because of the white key.

IMAGE_285.jpg

Do you still need this information? i can help you out if needed.

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Can someone tell me if I can replace a 6 pin DIN with a DB9 connector? 

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