arj

Well lets look at this positively...Now we know for sure as to how much to trust reviews !

http://www.audaud.com/audaud/MAR04/component/comp1.html Do inform me of the time and place for nthe public Flogging

Hi Folks, I did happen to see this in another Forum and felt it might be a good Idea to have One thread where a everyone could post their setup with a brief about what they get from it. I would help Nebwies/Cases of "Upgraditis" as well as a general check on ones system. I would definitely love to have one place to refer to as to what folks are using ! Preferable that questions and Comments be kept out of this thread..just System Setups for ALL ? What Say ?

Adding on to the above..If you go for used gear, Speakers are the safest, then the AMP and preferably always buy the CDP new as it is very dificult to find out wear and tear in a CDP as they can go Kaput due to Mechanical wear and tear..especially the transport and the lens A DVD player is usually not very recommended for CD's as they usually tend to sound a bit shrill..but for the time being you could go ahead with that too if it sounds right a that gives you more Playing around space with the budget !

Hi Knight, my $.02 What you need for a simple stereo are the following 1. CD player (A good One) 2. Integerated Amp 3. Speakers 4. Interconnects to connect your CDP to the Amp 5. Speaker wire to connect your Amp to the speakers I am assuming that your budget is fixed.. If your room is small, go for the RB35, NAD 521BEE & NAD320BEE Integerated AMP + Monster cables and Monster entry level Interconnects..also get some cheap but good stands from Ebay for placing the pseakers and you are ready to Rock. when you have more budget you could either upgrade to Floorstanders or invers in a sub Since Klipsch speakers have high sensitivity they do not need Lots of power and at50W per channelyou will NEver use more than 50% (And that might make you go deaf too!) Additionally the 320BEE is a slightly Warm and smooth Amp that matcher the Klipsch Very well. you can always keep upgrading with time..but it makes sense to get used to the sound so you can decide as to what you really want. The NAD CDP/Amp combo should cost you around 400-450 New and much less old (Try ebay or Audiogon!) Cheers!

Thanks guys. Did some research on this. I would not want to opne the speaker and do anything inside as that affects the volume and that affects sound quality and That i do not want.. One way around , apparently is removing the external Vinyl and then pasting maybe 1/4inch MDF or treated real wood. the glue used would need to be carefully chosed as it should dampen the sound as well... Anyway love these too much and would not want to end up with a changed sound as I have just finished tweaking and cabling the system around these !! Thanks again

Hi Michael, YOu know, I had tried something similiar..I had draped a felt blanket,,like a hood around one of the speakers and then tied three Leather Belts very tightly, jst below each of the speaker cones. then I put my Int Amp to Mono and kept playing around with the balance knob to shift dfrom left to right and always found the high frequencies to be smoother on the test speaker (Now I am nt sure if it was Psycho-acoustics as my wife simply refuses to cooprate on any of these experiments these days !) On the other hand the RF5 has better bracing and I personally feel the High frequency response is much better on that.

When I knock on the sides of my RF3 there is a hollow sound...I tried the same on some of the much Higher end speakers and it felt very rigid. Do you folks have any Ideas on strengthening the box of a n RF3 ? I would not like to mess around with the Internal Volumes which would definitely change the sound which I love. hence would prefer any tips on external changes Like -Any extrernal Bracings you know of - getting it re-veneered or pasting thicker finished wood like Birch/Oat/Mahogany on top of the existing Veneer etc ? cheers.

---------------- On 2/10/2004 10:21:47 PM mtber101 wrote: arj...would say the left speaker only run from the sub and the right would come right from the amp? ---------------- No NO..that would cause a problem with the stereo imaging/Soundstage as the R/L speakers would be fed different freq.! Connect both the outputs , ie the R/L of the Amps to the Subs Speaker Input connector. Now connect the Speaker Out Of the Right and Left from the Sub to each speaker I have made a rough (& pretty bad) pic of the same..

Arent those Cain & Cain Speakers.. You must hear them with a SE tube amp to believe them...Amazing for Vocals and decent for Jazz . The Bass is there BUT not the chest thumping kind ie you can hear the musinc but not feel the SPL!!. I do not believe this was even designed with a Rock Music Fan in mind !! Only other speaker range I have heard with the same quality for vocals is the LothX range...another speaker with a Lowther Driver !!!

It really does appear so..phenomenal control& grip on the music even at very low levels. Am really impressed...only problem is No remote

If you are primarily into 2 Channel, you need not Mod in a subwoofer output..a Speaker level connection from the Amp to the Sub speaker in and then from the sub speaker out to the Speaker would IMHO give you better integeratiopn between the two. This is because you would be using the Subwoofers filters and anything not fed to the sub would be directly fed to the speakers. Else you will have to spend a lot of time adjusting the sub !! Er..and you Do not need a Pre amp with the Jolida's as although Passive (Some people say that is Better!) it has a very good pre-amp unlike the NorH 9's !! Just my $$.02

My latest investment, A beautiful Sugden A21 Class A 25 W Amp. Sounds Heavenly and very musical and built live a proverbial Brick ! Also gets so hot that I can actually fry an egg on it...But the sound is heavenly..Something like a Jolida202 A With a thumping Bass !!!! I have not stopped listening to this for the past couple of hours !!!

In pure looks the The RF-35 is better..with the magnet grills. Sadly those plastic feet are still around ! I own an RF-3 and when i recently auditioned a RF-35 could not find too much of a difference in the lower freq. (It was a Broken in Pair), although the high frequencies appeared a bit better..I could not put a finger on the exact difference. But since the Audiotion room was heavily carpeted it may be due to that.. If price is a Factor, then you will get the best deal on an RF3.. if available

The PM7200 has a great feature to switch to Class A which is the Ideal way to run the Klipsch. A 5 X 5 m room and an interest in Rock Hmm..not sure if th RB series would give out enough Bass ..especially at low volumes.. the RB75's would be the best, Better to try to put them closer to the backwall & Corner than usual. YOu should be able to experiment to get the position right. Ideally try to get in a Broken in pair of Demo pieces to test this out.. Hope this helps.. Cheers

All my statements are when comparing Budget SS to Budget tube systems. Of coarse you can slap down a ton of cheese on SS and get great sound. Craig ---------------- Hmm Craig, for all you know Cheese on an Amp might actuially be the discovery of a new tweak.... I can almost hear reviewers statements "increased Soundstage" " I fell out of my seat" "Tight Kicking Bass" "I could swear she was right there singing for me" etc etc Blah Blah..

Ganja, My friend, In case it is a NAD you are going for. go for the C320BEE. The C350 and C370 are only bigger bro's with more power which you will never ever use. (this is a 98db speaker that you have !!) Even with the C320BEE (50W) you will not be going above 20 % of the power without being deaf for life !!!! IMHO for that price range NAD matches very well with Klipsch as they are warm by nature and once they break in sound very smooth yet punchy. One tip..Remove the metal connector between the Pream/Power amp section in the Int Amp and put in any decent interconnect...also Biwire the RF-35's you will notice a definite improvement...

Thanks Folks ! I did get a used one for around $150, Funnily between my CDP & AMP it does not seem to be doing much .. But when i place it between the "pre out" and "power amp in" in my Int amp it IS pretty good and does smoothen out the highs without affecting the lows (The bass is bloomy when this is just switched on but after around 15-20 min of warming it tightens up well) I believe this currently uses Philip 6DJ8's which are not all that great. I've heard a Mullard 6DJ8 would make it sound sweeter..bit i am a tube novice hence not very sure.. I am sure this will not make the $400 CDP sound like a $1200 one..but it sure sounds very very good for a $150 tweak !!! I guess the difference is much more remarkable with Klipsch due to the Horn Loading as well as High Sensitivity.

This is supposed to be a tube buffer and if placed between a CDP & Pre is supposed to Enhance the quality of the analogue signal as well as make it more Tube Like . Was wondering if anyone of you has owned/tried/heard of it before. Stereophile does have a review of this but I would really appreciate any firsthand info from you folks ! (I use a NAD 521BEE CDP with a NAD C320BEE Int Amp) Cheers!

I had tried that out...i For listening to this thru your speakers, in case anyone is critical of soundstaging then you need to rip MP3's at 256..or else 128 is ok (thats the bitrate you get at the iTunes store s well) With earphones (even AKG100's) the difference between the two is not noticeable ! but moment you start the ripping at 256 the size doubles hence 40gig would hold only Half the number of songs claimed by apple Best part of using a iPOD sourse is that isolation from ground does not seem very critical just placing it on the rack is good enough !

Breakin is a real thing with speakers. To test that out, the next time you buy speakers,put in your favourite cd listen to it and note down your comments Now to breakin do the following Keep the speakers face to face, and close to each other. Wire one of the speakers with reverse phase (ie red wire on black binding post ..) Stuff some cloth to cover the gap between the speakers Put in a Death Metal CD and play it loud for around 50-hrs and get out of the room (Even if you dont u will not hear much!) You will not hear a thing due to the sound cancellation as well as the cloth insulation. PLay the initial cd and check for the difference...believe me there would be some ..at least with Klipsch and the harsh trebles would have smoothened out and the bass would be really tight.. The theory of "ear getting used to the sound" apparently holds truer to cables and amps since breakin is more of a Mechanical phenomena and Speakerr to a large extent is Mechanical !!

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=530&page_number=1

Aparently a couple of High end manufacturers are coming out with Amp/Pre Amp designs that are based on DC hence has its own Battery source which gets recharged.... Apparently this greatly reduces distortion in the output.

UPS needs to be of very high quality if it is to produce distortion less current... Quality of current does not affect the computers so much, but can make a good HI fi reaaly squawk. A good UPS of that quality would anyway set you back by more than what you pay for a line conditioner.. Before you take the splurge, you may want to try out by experimenting with thicker power cables... cheers!

Hmm...15 watts would Shake the marrow out of your bones...come to think of it I doubt whether you are going to ever get past 8 watts in an average room !! A good SS Amp would sound you the violins as well as make the dinousaurs walk all over you as it should be able to both play the Midrange-High freq. As well as the Bass. While most tubes will make the violins sweeter they are not all that great at handling the Bass. (I said Most and not All ) Ideal way would be to Bi amp using the Tubes for the high frequencies and SS for the lower. your RF7 has a sesitivity of 100+ hence 1 watt will generate that much SPL in a decent room (At 1 M distance) IMHO, even in a heavily damped room (Unless it is a Hall) you will never need more that 20 W.. so you need to plan accordingly. The Class A amps although rated 20W or so would be the best of both worlds...