Deang
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Posts posted by Deang
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Vertical mounting is a bit of a double edged sword. If you squirt the hot melt under the cap and press down - when you solder, the glue melts and gets pulled through the hole. If you leave the cap somewhat lifted off the board, then it's not as secure - but the soldering looks better. After you solder, go back and squirt the hot melt under the cap. I started by gluing the electrolytic to the low pass coil to stabilize it while I soldered.
Gorilla glue hot melt is the best I've ever used. I also use the small version of the gun and sticks for better control. I normally hit areas where parts are up against each other for reasons I can't remember.
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These are kind of self explanatory. I chose wire this time around instead of extending the lead with more lead material. I wanted to see if the flexibility of the wire would help with the vertical mounting. I'm still undecided.
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This first picture shows a common way of getting the cap in. It's okay I suppose, but I prefer to radius the leads to the front or rear of the cap and adjust the leads so the capacitor makes contact with the board.
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I remove all solder from the pads, and clean the pads.
Some people just heat up and add solder (reflow). Don't do this.
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I sent @ampedsome basic shipping instructions.
Use large bubble wrap for the networks, and pack them in such a way that they do not shift in the box.
He scored a solid A+
Jim from JEM now has 6uF and 7uF values. I bought some, and asked Jim to include the instructions he sends people. I thought maybe I could add something, but they are perfectly fine the way they are.
The kit presumes that the person buying the kit has the necessary skills to install the kit. So, you need to know how to desolder, solder, and think out of the box a little. Parts do not just "drop in".
You need decent tools. Soldering iron should be at least 40 watts with a quality tip. I use 750 degrees, heat sink my parts, and get in and get out. If you can't get your solder to flow, you either have an underpowered iron, a dirty tip, or need more practice. i really don't want to talk much about soldering because you are already supposed to know how to do this before buying the kit.
Jim sent me my first BS button for Christmas!
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Sealed and acoustic suspension aren’t the same. The Heresy doesn’t require an airtight seal.
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They are what they are. The smaller caps should drop right in. It’s only the spot for the electrolytic that creates an issue. The easy and acceptable fix is just to use what was originally in there - another electrolytic. Thousands upon thousands of vintage loudspeakers used them with no complaint until people’s ears started being tickled with nonsense. The complaint is ironic considering what people are stuffing in there these days. I used to build them a mile high, lol.
I do get what you’re saying, but what I’m beginning to find out is many don’t know how to get their networks out much less know how to work on them. Providing drop in parts won’t help those folks. Some want them worked on, but think Klipsch just wants to lock them into old technology, and prefer faux “upgrades” from another vendor.
I’m going to move the resistor to the bottom of the board and use hi temp silicone. This should create plenty of room for the polyester. I may have to use spacers and slightly longer screws.
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17 minutes ago, OO1 said:
except for the Network
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6 hours ago, John Warren said:
The data sheet doesn’t say, but I think those might be polarized. OTOH, I haven’t had my sixth cup of coffee yet.-
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8 hours ago, Jhakobe said:
25uf and 20uf, 10% tolerance.
I probably would have cheated and used a 22uF and a 27uF - both within 10%.
The problem you have there is if you didn’t glue them down, then they are largely only being supported by their leads, and the inside of a loudspeaker is a pretty hostile environment.
I’m surprised you didn’t update the blue mylars while you had them out.
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7 hours ago, geoff. said:
What I can’t find is a thread on here from a decade ago where one of the esteemed members backed up his assertion that replacing electrolytics with a different dielectric has a similar effect as replacing a mylar with a polypropylene. Reactances are different so the resultant sound is altered.
ESR @1kHz is about the same as a Mylar.
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-2 with 50 mph gusts here in Dayton. Most things are closed with widespread power outages. No mail today and probably won’t get anything tomorrow either. I actually don’t expect anything to show up from USPS until Tuesday, since Monday is a Federal holiday.
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@geodr I stopped responding to your emails because of your email spam blocker. I’m sorry, but I will not be filling out an online form request to send email to you. You either want to communicate or you don’t.
40 years is a long time. Since the speakers are still operating, the capacitors aren’t “bad”, but they are aging out. You also need to be able to test ESR/DF to know whether or not you should change them. By the time you go through the trouble of doing that, you might as well change them out.
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What were the values?
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8 hours ago, henry4841 said:
A properly made capacitor should not do this and anyone that favors rolled off highs should consider doing so electronically and adjustable, tone controls and not at the speaker using a capacitor in the crossover.
That mindset is what someone else used and it ultimately resulted in a lot of confusion, which still persists. So, I don’t agree.
The specifications and resultant behavior of the parts are used in the voicing process. If that causes a slightly tipped down response, then it is by design, and the prerogative of the manufacturer.
As for tube amps, many prefer a minimalist approach to audio and don’t want or use equalizers and tone controls. Many don’t even use preamps.
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@chuckears I believe if the capacitors are having issues, ANY new set of capacitors will net a noticeable change. So, why not use parts that put them to factory spec first to see where you’re really at. It sure leaves a lot of money left over for other things.
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1 hour ago, richieb said:
— I remember when a statement of “upgrading” a Klipsch speaker was becoming verboten to be replaced with the “modifying” of a Klipsch speaker. That seemed the more palatable reference - And either way could no longer be known as Klipsch -
When you start replacing tweeters, horns, and networks - then I would agree that it’s not Klipsch anymore. It wasn’t done by Klipsch and it doesn’t sound like Klipsch, so how can it be Klipsch?
Making a change and calling it a mod, that one happens to like, is not the same as making a change and calling it an “upgrade”, which often carries with it unsubstantiated claims of technical improvement. In some cases, the change is a technical degradation that one just happens to like the sound of.
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Ever notice how anything that sounds different is an “upgrade”?
What constitutes an upgrade?
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Zero feedback design? The amp’s frequency response is tracking the impedance of the loudspeaker.
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Here you go.
Chorus II JEM Capacitor Kit Installation
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
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