Raptor22

or, to help a Klipsch brother out I am sending the OP a PM, check your inbox.

I use the Niles Spk -1 ( http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/products/niles/spk-1.html ) because it is 12 vdc triggered and have it plumbed so that when I turn on my pre-amp it switches and then I turn on the amp. This gives me peace of mind that the delay time allows it to switch before the amp comes up. When pre-amp is powered down, the 12 vdc is removed and the mains switch back to the AVR. With no triggering available on older preamps simply plug a suitable 12 vdc power wart into the switched outlet of the controlling unit. When time allows I will connect it to my AVR on trigger 2 and with an activity programmed via the Harmony 880 I can leave TV on or off (muted) as I like while listening to the stereo. I just got a IPC-6 that I will try out as well for current sensing switching. I also like the Niles AC-3 for cheap reliable triggered power turn ons.

Dean, when you get to it shoot me a PM (or open, board rules withstanding) on what you can do for me, if you want to. If interested please see my post regarding looking for McIntosh advice. May not be applicable but I want to have my system understood as well as possible as I want help from the folks that have been there to avoid repeat mistakes. Thanks, Mike

Last minute I got into auctions and then learned the remove knobs/faceplate, ask the sellers both said "I'm not touching, let's get insurance" so I did. My fingers are crossed. Really my question to mc folks is, given model what's the limit on refurb vs. get another pair...staying ss, not tube. It would dribve me crazy thinking roll tube, rolll tube. See it all happened this weekend when I heard my amps on a set of JBL 250s of a new friend when I went WOW, how efficient are my speakers and I really don't need 400 watts of Mc (unaffordable) to power them. I only get to hear mine and a neighbor's cars stereo in a basement.

Note: Only listing items here to give you a sense of what I have beeen using, NOT FOR SELLING Been around a little while. Collecting and selling to my buddies thru out my military career, back in the day..buy in Japan Y300 yen to the buck, sell to your bud while on leave and then buy another one next year. Always on the buy of mid-fi because I couldn't afford it the "upper crust" and partied the rest. Oh, then it was Crown, McIntosh and Phase Liner but I don't remember the order that I picked for amp/pre-amp/tuner, each was different brand. Never wanted tubes.Oh, but if I had all the bucks now or not spent foolishly then, what a system I've have. In my 50's now, married with a 3 and 6 year old!! My system today consists of: Denon AVR-4306 9/10 (used as pre/pro now, hate the preamp section for music) 2 Onkyo M-508s 9/10 1 Onkyo M-504 9/10 (have additional 504, is inop) 1 Onkyo M-5060R 8/10 1 Onkyo P-304 8/10 1 Onkyo P-308 9/10 Klipsch Chorus IIs 9/10 (used as mains on HT as well, switched w/either Niles speaker selector or manually, rest of HT is Academy, Quartets and RS-7s) Arriving this week: Pro_Ject RM 5SE turntable McIntosh MC2505 ( seen in the past auction http://search-completed.ebay.com/sea...&fsop=1&fsoo=1 McIntosh C-28 (seen here http://search-completed.ebay.com/sea...&fsop=1&fsoo=1 I can not buy another thing period unless I were to sell off some of the Onkyo stuff. I don't know what the condition of the amp and pre-amp is. My question (s): 1) Simply looking at the auctions and using you knowledge of Mc, is this something worth fixing if it turns out bad (throw good money after bad). 2) If all is well, should I immediately forward to a refurb shop and have blueprinted (sorry, I'm a motor head and that's my term) 3) Any thoughts on how much $ not to exceed on either of the above?

I bought a set of caps for my Chorus IIs and Quartets from Bob C. a year or more ago and with the family duties have yet to get them assembled and installed. I went out to the garage today to get back to work on them and found a mangled mess of components, I can not even imagine what happened but none the less I need new [8o|]. Here's what I have: Speaker selection: Chorus II front mains for HT and additional duty as 2 channel, Academy center, Either Quartets or RS-7s serving as rear/side surround (I swap back and forth sometimes using both). Home theater powered by Denon AVR 4306 as pre/pro using Denon M-508s x 2 (200 wpc) and 504s x 2 (165 wpc). Spare Onkyo M-5060R if needed. Pre-amps available now: Onkyo P-304 and P-308 Amp in the mail for 2 channel: McIntosh MC2505 (matching pre-amp is being sought) Turntable arriving this week: Pro_Ject RM 5SE Here's what I want: One set of plug and play entire xover networks for the Chorus IIs and the Acdemy that is complete and ready to install, will play well together in the HT mode (integrate academy a little better if possible, nothing wrong but if changing things why not ask). If I had my wish it would be that the mains were a little less bright in my environment. 14 x 26 x 8 basement room with laminate wood over concrete with large area rug. My room acoustics are in work waiting on fabric. When do I want the xovers, well today of course []

I'm working a deal on craigslist and wondered if we have anyone in this area that I could buy dinner for a inspection of goods.. I would have to find out what specific area. I am looking at an amp, preamp and tuner.

I am working a deal for 7 Outlaw M200 amps off audiogon.and for now will continue using the Denon AVR-4306 for a pre/pro.

I find that calibrated by Ratshack meter and SMS 1 (using SVS PB-12/Plus2) I read about 3-5 watts at 85 db, suggested Denon cal number. I started buying stereo gear while serving Uncle Sam and seemed to buy a new one every year while selling off the last one to friends. Never got to the "pinancle" but sounded better than anyone else's in my circle. Somehow back then I grew up believing that an amp with more wattage with all other advertised specs being equal would sound better. I have also been listening to my Klipsch driven by the Onkyo amps for a LONG time, 20 years or so. I wouldn't even dream of trying to replace the Klipsch, heck, just for the practical reason of I wouldn't know where to start! With that being said I would like to have a little more mellow sound and lose just a little of the harshness. I am slowly building the new xovers for the Chorus and Quarts with new caps from a forum member (Bob) and I am led to believe that any new caps will make the curve be a little more bright. I do get a little crazy late at night and crank up the wattage a wee bit hot, by that time I am not looking at the meters [6]. During a recent amplifier quick fix for a friend I had the opportunity to hear my front mains off a different amp. It was a Pioneer M-90 and it was smooooth. So now I find myself in a quandry, what amp setup do I get. I fiqure that if the auction site prices hold up until I decide I can get about 1500 - 1700 resale for what I have now. I need to feed 5 channels minimum. Sources are Directv HD-DVR, XBox 360 w/HD DVD, PS3 Blu-ray, Samsund DVD with 7.1 analog out to the Denon. Green meters ARE cool to look at though.

I currently drive Chorus IIs, Academy, Quartets and occasionally RS-7s with Onkyo M-508, M-504 amd M-5060R. I have issues with one of my 504s and have been been "looking around". I have found 7 Outlaw M-200s for sell and was wondering what the thoughts of the board are. I am using a Denon 4306 as the pre/pro and mostly (95%) listen to HT movies and concerts. Per chance anyone ever had an opportunity to hear this combo?

I just sent a "sure let's do it now" email. Wonder what's next?

I got the same reply to the inquiry I sent from my home email address. I am going to play along for a little while with this. I have used I Sold It before as there is one right down the street from my house. I looked at an amp there that was listed on ebay, glad I could see it cause it was rough. This has "BACK AWAY" written all over it but I'm gonna have some fun first and if this amp for $1100 is legit I'll buy it. I like the none American way of capitalization and such in the email and the "agent changing id's is classic".

This was the reply I received regarding a McIntosh MC2600 in the Atlanta edition: Thank you for your email. Before i answer you to your questions i have to let you know that i am out of the country for the moment in a business trip. You don`t have to freak out because i can handle the sale anyway and i am aware of the Craigslist warnings " DEAL LOCALLY WITH FOLKS YOU CAN MEET IN PERSON", this is not a scam, i`m just out of the country and i have to sell this before i get back because i need the money right away, and i`m sure you noticed the low price i`m offering so there`s no crime here. I will tell you from the begining that if you decide to move forward with the transaction, i will use I SOLD IT to complete the sale. They offer a very good service, a 10 day money back guarantee starting the day you receive the item and they guarantee that you receive the item exactly as described. So, if you are still interested let me know and i will explain the complete process. The main problem is that i can`t call you or be called because i only have my company phone with me and i am not allowed to use it for personal reasons, so i hope that will not be a big problem because we can comunicate by email. I use my laptop most of the time so you will be sure you will receive a fast answer. Thanks My response: Hello, Sure we can work this, all you have to do is let me know in what I Sold It store the amp is located and I will go there and complete the deal.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Back from them: As i said in my first email i will explain how I SOLD IT works. I SOLD IT is a third party service used for Internet transactions to make them safer and to protect both parties, the buyer and the seller. You will have a 10 day return policy too so you will be sure that you receive the item exactly as described. I am using their services because i had to leave with business and i couldn`t find somebody else to take care of the transaction for me. If you haven`t used I SOLD IT before I will explain how they work: They already have the item in their custody packed, insured and ready for shipping. They will contact you with all the details of this sale (they will send you an invoice ) and with the payment instructions. You will send the payment to one of their agents that is handling our transaction and after that you will send them the payment information so they can verify It. I will have to make you aware of the fact that i don`t know the agent name because they change it in every transaction for security reasons.As soon as they do that the shipping process will start. After you receive the item you will have a 10 day return policy, in this time you will have to decide if you accept it or not. If you do then you will notify them that you accept it so they can send me the payment. If not, they will give you a complete refund and return the item on my expense. If you have other questions please ask, if you don`t then i will need your full name and shipping address so i can have them contact you with your invoice and payment instructions. Regards

Thanks for your interest and help. College is a choice that has been discussed with the wife and she agrees (she supported me thru my aerospace engineering and business degrees) and older/vintage audio repair is something that could be fascinating to me following my second retirement. I want to ensure that I don't eroneously maticulate in an improper curriculum so please follow link and point me in the right direction http://www.chattcollege.com/ . Sorry this is my only choice of institutions at the moment. I AM serious! Really. Now to the amp, if I can beg indulgence. I have the service manual, including schematic, hence the attachment. I will certainly send the complete manual via .pdf arttachment to any one here on the board that would like a copy. Both rails of both transformers are measured to be +/- 0.5 VDC within spec. The supplemental transformer for the meter board is good as well. I do have a hard short between + rails in one polarization and 5kOhms with capacitance increase with opposite polarity. This is measured as meter red to B1- and black meter to B1+ producing the hard short. I state it this way because I am using a DMM and I have read that some DMM revesre the polarity in the resistance mode. Research tells me I could have a transistor or bias servo failure. Close? Regarding amplifier output, are you asking for a voltage measurement at the point that the 1VDC fault is detected? My research has not led me to that circuit so that I can check it. It is not included on the one page I attached. Guess I'll muddle along...

Amp took a lighning hit and now stays in protection. Visual inspection shows 5 of the 8 LEDs no longer illuminate. Checked around in circuit with a DMM set to diode and found the following in regard to the LEDs: All have near rail voltage with good drop across (this brings up next question below) D409 - 412 check good at .5 vdc fwd but when checked in rev meter builds up like capacitance to 1 vdc and then opens (possible in circuit effect?). of this group only 411 illuminates. D417 - 420 check good fwd and open in rev, 412 & 418 illuminate. Regarding voltages, I assumed that the flag note call out on the schematic indicated potential to the associated rail. Everywhere I have check, I get near rail voltage except for Q441 and 442. These two are very near the schematic callouts. Only other info I have is that the right channel idle current was 17 mV and was correctable via pot adjustment. Left channel idle current is 9 mV and the pot does not effect reading. Any place for a layman to start determining fault? M-504 main borad.pdf

No problem Bob, I just put it back together for the Daytona 500 as I wasn't prepared for your quick response. I'll get that info for you. Anyone needing photos/info on the Chorus IIs or Quartets let me know and I'll get them.

Thanks Bob, I'll go ahead with the surgery. The 2s and 1 match up. Her's a shot of the terminal cup removed and the board.

I accessed the quartet by removing the speaker terminal cup. There are three screws holding the crossover pc board to the assy. The one under the transformer is not removable by screwdriver, I used a pair of angled needle nose pliers. Bob, the kit I received from you has a 50 cap whereas the factory cap is rated at 80. need clarification prior to unsoldering. Disassembly photos available but gotta fiqure out how to post. Edit: testing attachment

Thanks for the pointers. Now, one more if you please. Perhaps too many adult beverages tonight but I can't seem to find the photos referenced. Could I bother you for a link?

Glad to meet you, come on by. Live in Dallas, work in Marietta. Mike

I am going to ask this even if I get flak for a seemingly obvious question but maybe it's better to ask the 'been there done that' folks so I know for sure the first time. I have virgin Chorus IIs and Quartets that I am installing a set of Bob's caps in and I just wanted to know if the access is thru the passive radiator (chorus) /woofer alone, more dis-assembly required or thru another method all together?

There is a pair local Atlanta on Ebay and the seller has provided opportunity to look (maybe listen). I'm looking for ideas on what my inspection should include. My guess is that I would not be able to open them up as the address looks like a suite in a strip mall. I currently use Chorus II mains, Academy front and rear centers, Quartet rears and RS-7 sides. I am used to the Chorus and Quartets as I bought them new around '90 or so. Thanks, guys & gals adding link, any thoughts? http://cgi.ebay.com/KLIPSCH-LA-SCALA-PAIR-SPEAKERS_W0QQitemZ120043487850QQihZ002QQcategoryZ61378QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I owned an NAD T-762 AVR that I "blew up" by inadvertently dropping a 12vdc trigger wire onto the back panel. The local dealer & authorized repair center took it in severral months ago to fix. After some time I called to check on status and nothing had been done and they agreed to send it back to NAD for repair since their guy wasn't getting it done (this thing was outside the 1 year warranty). Today I get a call from them that NAD, for whatever reason, had authorized them to replace the 762 with a brand new T-763 V2 with full factory warranty!!!! Come pick it up at any time, it's waiting with my name on it! Be there tomorrow to get it I say. Now, I had already purchased a new Denon AVR4306 and so I am going to put this up for trade/sell to get a new subwoofer. I see new 763s going for $900-1100 on those auction places so I figure that since the dealer has agreed to put anyone's name as buyer for warranty purposes, I can get at least the going rate. What do I buy? I am a Klipsch guy but have never owned one of their subs. My system info is before, anyone care to help? I use this system for about 90% movies and some weekend music. The room is approx. 14x 23 with an average ceiling height of 8' as it is astaggered from 9 to 8 to 7. Laminate hardwood over cement basement floor, no opening from main room that I cannot close off, drywall over cement walls on front and back, drywall sides and ceiling. My system: Chorus II..........Academy..........Chorus II RS-7................................................RS-7 ....Quartet.......Academy.........Quartet.... I am using a M&K V125 next to right front at this time. Since I am getting close to finally dialing in the speakers, room and system I am beginning to think I need more, aahh...UMMPH on the far bottom end. Seems if I crank up the sub channel to fill in that it's not "clean". For the life of me I cannot make heads or tails what sub would work here. I will say that HSU suggest there STF-2 but that was when I stated that my budget was $600, now I can spend whatever I gety for the AVR.