Scp53

go to avsforum.com and get the conversion charts there. they have a big thread going on it. the thread is called Note:Radio Shack SPL Meter Correction Tables its in "audio area" under "Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers" area

Chad told me over the phone that this sub i am makeing can pump out 110db at 1m in 1/2 space(he did it in a field on a slab or something). he said that was maz so distortion is in there. im guessing if i halved the power twice the sub should put out 104db in 1/2 space at 20hz at 1m cleanly. that is pretty impressive imo. what would in room gain be like? isnt it roughly 6db gain for 1/8 space? how many more db is room gain over 1/2 space for bass frequencies(i know that rooms are all different so i guess its a very hard question)? scp53

my closest ref dealer is FS appliance. they seem to be a decent dealer- they have a dedicated sound room, good sales people, everything is neat and in order,etc. to bad there not all good dealers because customers im sure have been turned off from klipsch by poor representation. scp53

i would say the titanic hands down(although the others are ok for the $ too). i have the titanic 10in mk3 and even though the kit is under powered(needs a bigger amp), it does sound very nice when the amp doesnt clip it at lower levels. the 15in kit is not under powered at all so no worries there. im sure the other 3-4 owners of the dayton 15in kit will talk soon. good luck with which ever one you go with. scp53

ok, ive deceide(this is final!!) to build this sub ported. I talked to Chad and im really excited to build it and power it up(havent had time yet to get mdf). it will be a 6ft3 box with two 4in ports with a little polyfill on the sides(to kill internal reflections). basically told me ill get HUGE output down low. it'll be tuned to 20hz or so.

Well i just got the driver today and its NICE!!! have to get that box built now!

Welcome to the forum, I'd STRONGLY consider the ref products. considerably better performance for very little more money(although synergy is good for the money too). actually refs can often be cheaper than similar synergy. ref dealers will deal more than best buy will with synergy. scp53

not quite sure about that. it "cuts" through so i think its outside the freq range but im not sure. could you please re-state that better scp53

sorry, double post read below...

I listen just as much whether someone is home or not. The only thing that changes is the volume when someone comes home(and sometimes the type of music). scp53

could you answer about "flatness" please. if i did go with a qts setting of .37 in a 3.7-4ft3 box would the bass be flat? that graph shows it slopeing down starting at 70hz or so. and if i do consider a 6.7ft3 cab ported, does port placment make a big difference? i mean on the side on the front baffle,etc? and i see that power handling goes down when its not ported vs ported in the same size cab and same qts setting. did i read the charts right? maybe ill have to call Chad up again and talk to him about the cab. scp53

Rob, could you look at the frequency vs spl for the atlas 15 on their webpage. http://ascendantaudio.com/Atlas%2015%20recommended%20enclosures.htm what q should i wire it for? i want to keep box size small so its either the low or mid q. seems like the low q in a 4cu.ft box would roll off quite early compared to mid q in the same box. will room gain make up for this? can i count on room gain giving the real low freq a boost? what im really asking is what enclosure size should i use? that "sharp" roll off listed on that graph(low q one) on their site bothers me a little. i do plan on using poly fill so will that boost the low end spl wise? or is that just for extension more so? the main goal is to have a tight musical sub(from what ive heard sealed or ported are both musical and tight) that has enough depth to be decent at ht. thanks for any help scp53

im NOT bottoming the woofer. in HT i drive it farther and have NO sounds of any kind.

i think im gonna stay cheap and use rubber feet(go to local hardware store). as far as finish, i think ill leave it mdf for a week or two till i decide for sure what i want it to be. on second thought, i could use the spikes on the titanic i have right now. those are silver and look pretty nice. the titanic will be sitting for a while till i get the 240 watt plate amp(or by a car amp and put it in my car). and for power, i looked on the website and talked to Chad(the designer and owner) and he said it was made SPECIFICALLY for 250-300 watt amps. so mine fits in that area, no problem. scp53

heres a diagram that i made of the enclousure im going to make. by the way, this isnt the final model, i might go with a tube still. i think ill need to find out more info though so i make the tube correctly. scp53 edit- cant seem to get pic to come up on thread?

the voice coil is completely fine as far as i can tell.

the levels it usually clips at are lower so the clack is light. does that answer your question? if i really turn it up the clack will "cut" through the music(where at light clipping the main speakers can mask it). scp53

my sound seems to be a clack. it ONLY happens with peaks in the music. its not constantly clipping. my equipment is sb3,rb25,yamaha rxv420, pioneer sx550, toshiba sd4900 dvd player. most of the time i just use analog rca connection for music. what other questions do you have? scp53 ps- i just picked up a Ascendant Atlas 15 driver to put in a 4cu. ft box sealed. however, im still interested in talking about this titanic. im thinking that ill use it for a car sub down the road or in a small music system(in a different cab config).

nice post lol. very funny. that bose wire is nothing different than what you get with a cheap walmart stereo. wonder if people are more likely to buy the speaker because of the wire? could a klipsch fan(hopefully the winner would be) also beleive in the bose wire? scp53

I just talked to Chad and went off what i heard on the avsforum and decided i could deal with a larger cab. right now im thinking of making a 4cu. ft. box sealed but i may consider the tube idea. i plan to use 3/4in mdf for all walls and double thinkness on the front baffle. i need to go to PE's site and order some mounting screws and hurican nuts or something(the screws or bolts will need to be quite long because the baffle is thick). then i'll brace it internally with some mdf and stuff 4lbs of poly fill in it. while im at PE's site, what should i cover the cab with? should i buy a paint or something(needs to be cheap though)? i asked Chad about using spikes or feet of some kind and he said it wont help. He said as long as it stays put and doent move around the cab can sit right on the floor. I think i still may get some cheap spikes or something. and at the moment i dont plan for getting a grill. what do you guys think? i have no animals or kids around that could damage it. scp53

yea, Chad is the man i talked to. VERY nice person and VERY VERY VERY smart imo(at least with speakers). he answered EVERY question i had and then some. i can hardly wait to get this sub and put it togather. i suppose ill have to get a digital camera to take some pics because everyone will want to see it. ill say right now its not going to be pretty at first. ill build the cab and such and put a nice paint job or something on it later. its going look like mdf for a week or so for sure. i wont be able to see it anyways when im in the dark watching lotr . ill update the thread when i get the driver and then put it togather. scp53

ill be sure to tell you how it turns out. its gonna be sealed ina ~4cu. ft box with 4lbs of poly fill and powered by my 250watt plate amp. I should be hitting 20hz in room easily(hopefully if the room has decent acousitics). right now im a little worried though, i didnt get my confirmation email. i think he got the wrong email address or something. i guess ill call him tomorrow. either that or the email just hasnt been sent out yet(he was working 1.5hrs past when they closed). scp53

i just talked to the MAKER of these subs(i read numerous post on boards too, so im not buying off talking to the sales/designer person). i m 99.9% sure im gonna get the atlas 15in in a 3-3.5 cu. ft box. has a 3year warrenty and has BOTTOMLESS suspension. wow. plus a VERY light cone and excellent motor(xbl). i think my titanic is gonna get schooled by it. and just to show how light the cone is, my titanics cone is heavier than the atlas 15in cone. anyone on here have a ascendant sub yet? and Olorin, i found out that 250watts is what the sub was designed for. so power wont be a problem. id go for a avalanche but that cost more and i dont have the power for it right now. any one got any comments about this sub ill build? scp53

i completely understand all that

ive have decided to build a diy sub. i have a 250watt plate amp from PE and think im going to get the atlas 12 or 15. has anyone on here used one before? it looks like a pretty nice driver for the money but i havent modeled it yet. i have decided that i want a cleaner sound than my titanic(not that the titanic isnt) with out stressing the driver(works too hard for my use). im hopeing to build this and put an end to the "sub hunt". my other option is the adire tempest. my budget for the driver and cab togather is $200 and the cab cant be bigger than the 6cu.ft. ill be using it for music and movies and want to hit 16hz in room with decent spl(i was told i could but havent modeled it my self yet). the TOP goal is VERY clean sound. the cab is going to be made of mdf and braced and will be painted as a temperary thing(want to put all $ in performance not looks). thanks for any input. scp53