wjfranke

1

Very interesting - I've had the exact same problem with my custom 2's. Just curious - who did you contact that agreed to replace them? I would simply like to know if they could be repaired. It's frustrating to have to listen to them with only one side working.

Well, I need to clarify. I like the oppo outputting bitstream via HDMI. You'll have to have a receiver/pre-amp that can receive this. I had the 2900 running of a silver digital coax and then KingCats interconnects for PCM. It was definitely good on the 2900. I changed several pieces at the same time, so difficult to say it is only the oppo. I will say that the oppo at it's price point outputting DSD and PCM via HDMI is nothing short of outstanding. It's not as sturdy as the 2900, but I have a hard time seeing that sturdy construction and a high quality transport will impact DSD.

Ok, I've recently set up some new gear. Am now running the Integra DTC-9.8, a Sherbourn 7/2100A, and acquired an Oppo 980 to replace my denon-2900. Have KLF-20's for front LR and surround LR and a converted KLF-30 for center. After setup, was getting a very audible buzz from the tweeters, particularly on the surrounds. Ok, so start reading up on the internet to learn a bit more. Apparently was picking up some EMI from somewhere. So, started moving around my interconnects to see if it made a difference. OMG, a huge difference to my great surprise. I had been using Tara Labs RSC prime interconnects. They advertise that the RSC eliminates EMI and RF distortion almost entirely, and thus they employ no shielding for it. Perhaps they didn't take 102 dB sensitivity speakers into account when they made that statement. At any rate, bundled up the interconnects and moved them as far from all other wires as possible. My SP meter doesn't measure this low, but simply in terms of distance, the buzz prior to moving the itnerconnects was probably close to the same dB at ~7-8' versus post movement same dB at maybe .5'. I have read about EMI previously, but was quite amazed that simply moving the interconnects could make such a huge difference. I always took the slight buzz (audible at 3-4') for granted due to the high sensitivity. I'm sure there are other posts on this, but did not see anything in my search and figured I would share with everyone. I do have to comment that the combo of the Integra with the Oppo is the most satisfying musical experience that I've had with my setup yet. I've gone through 4 different variations of pre-amp/amp and receiver with these speakers. SACD's are the most detailed I've heard yet without a doubt. Listened to Willie Nelson's stardust album and was amazed at the improvement in soundstage and clarity. I would not normally listen to this album, but I equate it to my experience with HDTV. I will watch a program on HD that I would not normally watch in SD. Of course, Pink Floyd DSOTM is my favorite, and have been VERY pleased to say the least. I'm waiting on the blu-ray/ HD-DVD, but it appears blu-ray is the winner. Perhaps will pick one up in 6 months or so. Anywho, just some notes for others to peruse.

Wood thickness is definitely 23/32". I'm not sure about the grill. I don't think it's 5/8", probably closer to 3/8".

I sold it last night. Measured the ports, and they were 3" ID and 2.5" depth.

The center has been sold.

Yup, prices on copper and many other metals have increased substantially in the last 3-4 years. It's wreaking havoc on my work....

Good idea colter. Didn't think about that, but agree that it is a concern. Will definitely package seperately if I end up shipping to someone. Bill

Easy, sent you a pm.

Sorry, I had already packed it when I wrote this note. Was also at work, and could not have measured it anyways. It looks like I will be unpacking it though to let someone sample it. If so, I'll measure then. Bill

Actually, it's been put together now for ~5 months. I'll be going from memory (which is shady), but I remember that wood being 23/32" (or essentially 3/4"). As for the ports, they are about 2" long each, and the ID on them is ~3.5" or so. Keep in mind that the ports are slightly different depending on what year the KLF's were manufactured. I have an older pair of KLF-20's, and the ID on the ports is slightly larger (likely over 4") AND the length is shorter (again, going from memory). The converted KLF-30 was manufactured in 2001. Again, this is going from memory, but hopefully it helps. Unfortunately, I can not get the exact dimensions of the ports. I'm sure there is a guru on here who can provide the specifics.

Ok, one more pic to show the grill on. I glued the Klipsch emblem in the center at the bottom.

Ok, So I posted a thread over on the updates/mods forum about the "Horn-Ed" center mod to the KLF-30. I was able to use in my system as a back surround - 6.1 setup, but have decided to sell the speaker anyways. We could use the extra cash and my significant other does not approve of my new speaker as adding more ambience to our living room. So, it's for sale for $550 plus shipping. First, I live in New Orleans and would absolutely love for someone to pick it up. I'm in Houston frequently, and would be willing to drive some to meet up with someone (maybe 100 miles or so). Will be in Gulf Shores at end of August as well. I have the original box, and will also double box & extra duct tape it for some additional protection. So, I would be willing to ship through DHL to continental US as long as the buyer pays for shipping. I would imagine that it will be ~$100 to most places. Here's a link to the DIY thread: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/848523.aspx As you can see, it includes the upgraded network from PopBumper. The $550 essentially covers my cost for the speaker and upgraded network. So, I feel like it is a more than fair price given the number of hours I put into converting it. There is some small paint wear on one side of the speaker. I put the mid-range on that side, and thus it should be the bottom and hidden. Here's a couple of pics:

And last and definitely the most enjoyable was doing an A-B test with my front left KLF-20. I listened to several SACD's to confirm that it was working properly. Again, I love the sound of the KLF series, and a converted KLF-30 center definitely completes the system. Last pic:

Ok, make sure that all of the foam is properly spaced in the box, and put the remaining drivers in. See pic:

Next step was to install the network. I skipped a few pictures, but the basics are that I painted the motorboard. Then used the grill to make a small indentation on the motorboard to rout holes for thefeet on the grill. I believe I used a 5/8" router bit. You'll also need to drill holes for the speakers in the new motorboard. Be careful as there may not be a lot of space, and you may need to drill at an angle. Ok, so I attached a pic with the network installed and nothing left but the speakers to put in. You'll need to make sure that everything fits properly (mostly the woofers). If not, then hopefully a little touch up with sand paper or slight routing will resolve.

Ok, It's been a while since I've posted. I managed to add the KLF-30 to the rear for a 6.1 system, but we're in a pinch on cash, and the wife has commented multiple times that we just don't need the 6th speaker. So, despite not agreeing with her, I have agreed to sell the speaker. A new HDMI 1.3A pre-amp is in my future plans, and as most know.......pick your battles. So, I'll post the remaining pics and give an explanation of the last few steps. I'll then post over in the home theater forum and hopefully somebody is interested. So, with that said, I swapped the standard network with one of Popbumper's networks. I swapped them on my first converted KLF-30, and was very pleased. As you can see, it's significantly upgraded over the stock network. I've attached a pic:

In basic terms, a KLF-30 is similar to a KLF-C7 (I've owned both), but the KLF-30 has dual 12" sub drivers in place of the smaller mid-range drivers on the C7. Most on here will tell you that another LaScala is the match as a center (as opposed to an Academy), but it can be difficult from a space standpoint. here's a quick link to the KLF-30 http://www.klipsch.com/products/discontinued/details/klf-30.aspx It has similar sensitivity to the LaScala, but will not be a timbre match like another LaScala would be. The Academy might be slightly closer, but will lack some bass, and they can be quite difficult to find.

I should have a KLF-30 converted center soon. I'm having some problems with the network that need to be fixed. Let me know if you're interested. It more be slightly more $$$ than the C7.

Yes Ron, this is the 2ndone of your old pair. I'm extremely pleased with the first one that I converted. Listening to SACD's with good vocals is as close to Heaven as I could imagine. I also upgraded the x-over with one of popbumper's for the KLF's. I have KLF-20's for front's and rear's (front's have upgraded crossover from DeanG), but decided on the KLF-30 for center as it fit perfectly under my TV (50" LCD). I suppose one day I'll make the jump to K-horns, but I'm extremely happy as is. Besides, I think the wife would blow a gasket once she saw how big the K-horns are. She lost it when I brought in the SVS PB-12+/2 sub. I suppose I'll need to update my auto-sig with the current setup.

Oppo just released the 981 version. It's supposedly an upgrade over the 971, but does NOT include component video outs. It does have HDMI, and also plays SACD and DVD-a.

Now you're ready to glue the motor board in. Again, a healthy bead of liquid nails all the way around. I kept the chisel close by to position the motor board so that the clearance on edges was pretty even. Then add some weight on top (paint cans work well), and give it 24 hours. I'll finish posting everything tomorrow or Wednesday. I'm sure this is "old hat" to most of you, but I was pretty tentative the first time around, so a thread like this would have been gold to me. Of course, if anyone has a better way for doing something, please feel free to post it. One more pic:

Once everything was routed, the first thing to do is test fit the drivers. Just make sure that everything fits. Next, I used a piece of sand paper to smooth out rough edges by hand. I didn't want to take off much material (I worked so hard to rout it carefully), hence not using the orbital sander. Now, we're on to glueing it into the case. The KLF speakers are known for having poor glue (rattling), so I reinforced all of the edges where the factory glue was not visible. I used liquid nails for this. Another pic:

The next part is to rout through the motor board so the speakers will fit in. Oddly, it's close to the line of the 5/8" router bit that I used for the countersink. So, I simply follow the line that I previously routed. You'll need to measure the diameter of the lip that is needed, but you want as much as you can get as you'll have to screw the speakers in later on. The drivers had about 3/4" of lip, and the mid/HF horn had slightly less (maybe 5/8"). Ok, another pic: