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    St. Louis, MO
  • My System
    Panasonic TC-L58E60 LED HDTV
    Dish Network ViP 722 HD DVR
    Samsung BD-C5500C Blu-ray
    Onkyo HT-RC560 A/V Receiver
    Sony CDP-545 CD Player
    Sonance Sonamp-260 (for subwoofer)
    KG5.5s (mains)
    custom designed & built speaker using a K-85-K horn and four 6.5" K-1075-SV woofers (center)
    ACI DV-12 subwoofer in custom four cubic foot sealed enclosure
    KG3.5s converted to custom in-walls (rears)
    custom made grills for all my custom enclosures
    Klipsch/Cerwin Vega hybrid using CV HED H-15 enclosure and woofer mated with Cornwall horns

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  1. Anyone know the vent frequency of the KG-4? I have all the parts from a pair except the passive radiators. I plan to build some cabinets for those parts and was just going to do a port instead (since PRs and ports are both forms of venting enclosures) but I need to know the frequency.
  2. Then perhaps is a K-79-KP just a K-79-K with a titanium dome?
  3. Do you mean the K-792-KP? If so see:
  4. It might be helpful if we knew the make/model of the speaker you are talking about. Does the bi-amping setup also expect the output going to the mids & high will have all the lower frequencies removed? I am thinking it likely does, and just adding what you linked won't get that. Also, those crossovers you found appear to be woefully overpriced IMO.
  5. I have a couple 83s, three 72s, and one 84 (with broken leads) in a box in my basement. When I find the time perhaps I will take one diaphragm and try it in all three (different) motors taking a few measurements to see if there are differences. I have a DMM as well as a LCR meter.
  6. RandyH000, A couple more things that appear incorrect in your post above: 1) The pic you call K-83-Ks has dual cut-outs in the flange, but according to Klipsch it was used in the KG-1 (see https://f072605def1c9a5ef179-a0bc3fbf1884fc0965506ae2b946e1cd.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product-specsheets/KG-1-Spec-Sheet.pdf) and only has one cut-out. The K-72-Ks are used in the KG-2 and also has the single cut-out. So from the naked eye the 72 and 83 appear identical which makes me really wonder if the motors are somehow different -- or perhaps the 72 has ferrofluid and the 83 doesn't (as that difference would be enough to warrant a different part number). 2) I know the K-85-Ks are Tractrix because it says that right on the front of the horn in my KG-5.5s. The same horn in the 4.2 and 5.2 doesn't have it, but when they went to the 4.5 and 5.5 they added it.
  7. You sure about that K-84-K lens pic? It was used on the KG3/3.2/3.5 (among others) which has a 90°x40° exponential horn.
  8. Well that makes a little more sense than what I was told. After studying the 75s and 79s that I have closer, those two appear to be exactly the same physically -- but I thought perhaps I was not understanding what was meant by "a tighter top plate". Thanks for sharing and being helpful!
  9. Is the motor on the K-84-K the same as the motor on the K-83-K or K-72-K? I know those latter two have a different lens than the 84, but the motors on all three look the same physically. I am guessing in the 72 an 83 motors are indeed different despite looking the same (else there wouldn't be a reason for two distinct parts numbers).
  10. From what I have been told the difference between the 75 and 79 is in the motor. The top plate on the 75 is "tighter" than on the 79, and the magnet is 0.2 oz smaller on the 75. The tighter top plate and smaller magnet are supposed to offset each other -- making it so the 75 has about the same output as the 79. So I think the 75 is a cost savings to build over the 79 (without giving up any performance).
  11. I doubt it would be much of a match. The KI-102 has a freq. response of 75Hz-17kHz (+/-4dB) and uses one woofer per cabinet, while the KG 4 has a freq. response of 38Hz-20kHz (+/-3dB) and uses two woofers per cabinet. T-S specs for the K-8-K woofer used in the KG 4: Nomz= 4.00 Ohms Qms= 5.900 Fs= 27.99 Hz Cms= 1268.0000uM/N Revc= 7.00 Ohms Qes= 0.405 Fi=27.01 Hz Mms= 25.5000Grams Levc= 1.00mH Qts= 0.379 BL=8.80 TM Pmx= 100.0000Watts Splo= 88.62 db no= 0.40 % Sb= 0.0220sqM = 34.1000sqIn SPLi= 88.00db ni= 0.74 % Vas= 0.0870cuM =3.0724cuFT SPLi=88.58db @ Vg= 2.00V Xmax= 4.0000mm....= 0.1575 In These should help you locate a suitable woofer to use as a replacement.
  12. I would email Klipsch and see if they would give you the T-S specs for that woofer. Or if you have one good woofer, you could measure the specs using Dayton Audio DATS Dayton Audio Test System. Once you have some specs, then you can find a proper replacement. If you need help I -- or others here -- can assist. I once helped someone find some suitable replacement woofer for their KG 4s. And it's doubtful that you will find an exact match, so I recommend replacing both woofers (even if you have one good one). Also, be careful of eBay sellers claiming to to selling non-klipsch woofers that match. The ones I've seen won't provide the specs for the woofers they are selling and/or the specs they provide aren't remotely close the the OEM drivers (I was looking at KG 4 woofers BTW). Lastly, you might consider upgrading to some KG 4s for the rears for a better match.
  13. You don't understand. The length is not / 2. It is X 2! Correct. The same would be true if one wanted to replace the single 3" port in the KLF-10 with two 3" ports -- the port lengths on those two new ports would need to double (to maintain the same tuning frequency).
  14. Yes, in theory it doesn't depend if the venting is done with a tube port of a slot port. If the both have the same cross-sectional area, then they'll have the same length (to attain the same tuning frequency). That said, the area of a 2 1/8" circle is 3.54 inches squared -- so you'd really need a 1" x 3.5" slotted port (that is 5" deep). Remember the area of a circle is Pi times the square of the radius.
  15. The Klipsch parts department would likely sell you one. I don't know the number to call off-hand, but I bet you can find it on their website. You could check eBay to see if you getting lucky and find one cheaper there. That said, I bet it is just a cap that is blown. So if you can solder, it would be pretty easy (and much cheaper) to just fix it.
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