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CANT

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Kansas City
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    Music/Sound
  • My System
    ~DEN~
    Technics SL1800 w/M5G arm & wires
    Nakamichi MR2
    Marantz CD5005
    Marantz NA7004
    McIntosh MX117 *Phono Only
    McIntosh C27
    McIntosh MC502
    Technics SU9070 *backup
    Technics SH9010 *backup
    Nikko EQ 20 *backup
    Nikko CO 23 *backup
    Nikko Alpha 220 *backup
    Klipsch KPT-325

    ~LIVING ROOM~
    Technics SL1301
    Marantz 1070
    Klipsch Heresy Inspired 2-way (K703/D202Ti & K28E)

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  1. Nevermind, I found my notes on the back of the KPT-325-N2 outboard network mounting instructions… it was 2ohm before I selected the 3.3ohm replacement. I must have just been remembering selecting that value over 3ohm. As yet another side note… I would suggest anyone with a newer Klipsch network approach capacitor replacement with extreme caution! I did my share of this on the 335’s and a few other models with VERY mixed results! Different is not always better and these networks work and sound good as is.
  2. Oh and for whatever else it is worth... I generally power my 325's with a McIntosh MA230. Obviously not a ton of power but I tend to like low power simple amps... I also couldn't imagine needing more than what I have?
  3. So, it looks like your 325 networks are an older gen/rev than what I have? They basically appear to be the same other than the build/layout and maybe that 2ohm padding resistor... I tried to find a picture to double check but I swear mine was 3ohm prior to me swapping it out for 3.3ohm? Similar to the the 335's I played around with that value to see if I could pad the HF bit more to my liking/application. If I remember correctly I went all the way to 4ohm on the 335's but I tried several rather small steps when adjusting both. If I can find my original notes, I will confirm whether it was 2 or 3 ohms.
  4. I’m kind of curious about the differences between the 396 & 325 networks? I’m guessing it’s either just voicing or cabinet tuning? Or a bit of both? In any case, the 325 is definitely bit simpler. I downgraded my 335’s to 325’s a while back and have been generally happier with the 2way format… I just wished they looked a bit nicer? What I remember of the 335’s, the MF and HF output was noticeably higher than the LF though the HF was really hot (could be read as very detailed). I tried to fix the HF by switching out the 2ohm resistor in its circuit which helped but I ultimately ended up with other issues as well, which is when I started looking into the 325 conversion. My final impression was that the 335 top was really meant to be used with the 904 LF cab if you don’t want to eq the living hell out of it…
  5. 1740 & 1742 are both bolt on, you'd need 1-3/8"-18??? In any case, I forgot to mention the K702 driver out of my H4 measure 8ohm and is physically identical to the 1748's I also have lying around... though it does look like newer 1748's have changed the cover molding and maybe aren't serialized any more? I don't know, the ones I have are old(er) stock, maybe just try a CDV1-1757 if you can find one?
  6. If you are trying to retrofit an older model, you essentially want a CDX1-1748 with 16ohm diaphragm (you'll have to buy it separately) You can look at the spec sheet for the CDV1-1757 to get an idea of the specs.
  7. Maybe I missed it in here somewhere but the HF driver is the Celestion Axi2050 correct?
  8. I would probably at least use a small Chicago screw per hole? but for the money being discussed here I would think they could fill the holes properly before paint.
  9. 50/50 now on whether or not to go through with the copper gilding or just give them a slightly better paint job? Also, kind of wish I could veneer the motorboard of the cabs... probably won't ever get around to it though
  10. The wood frame on the 402 looks a bit heavy handed to me, design wise... I'd probably just vote to fill in the unused mounting holes and give it a good quality paint? Maybe a copper gild? It's hard because that horn is so large anything you do is going to feel a bit imposing.
  11. “K691 is bnc 75 with a slight mod to the diap.” -Chief bonehead The mod is that it is hardened. The only thing to note about the phase plug is that the P in DE 75-P stands for plastic phase plug. The DE 75-P was used with no K designation prior to the K691 which also has a plastic plug. “K69 was a paudio driver. The k69a has a slightly decreased phaseplug diap spacing” -Chief bonehead I would take this to mean the K69A phase plug shape is largely unmodified from the BM-D750 production model and that the K69 is actually identical.
  12. The K28 in whatever iteration it is on should still be the current drop in replacement per Klipsch... I am unsure of what “mixed reviews” the op was referring to? The K28 is a great driver. Klipsch also sells the current KD-15 as a replacement for the original as well.
  13. Unfortunately, the number of revisions made to the CF line complicates this line of questioning... Obviously changes were made to nearly EVERY aspect of this line over it's brief existence but what was the difference from one rev to another and what was the purposeful/functional difference between a 63 and a 64, only a Klipsch employee/engineer can/could say. Until something is said, I stand by all of my previous statements... It makes ZERO sense to me, from a production/manufacturing stand point to have 2 different drivers and most of what I see in Klipsch pattern of parts usage says it likely wouldn't make sense to them either. Klipsch likes reusing parts and that's generally a good business practice. Example: The K52 is the same K52 used in a slew of Heresy's, Cornwall's, Quartet's, Forte's, Chorus', KI/KP?KPT Models... over MANY years.
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