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PrestonTom

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  1. Coytee, I think you and I may be long lost brothers. My Mother used to say the same thing to me.
  2. This is an interesting topic(s), but several different things are being confounded. Standing waves inside the cabinet, standing waves in the room, baffle diffraction. BTW, it is good to see Dr Who has mysteriously returned. Good Luck, -Tom
  3. If you are worried about the volume displaced, then consider adding some pressed fiberglass. JBL does this with their cabinets. About 1 inch thick on 5 out of the 6 panels, is said to increase the "apparent volume" of the box by about 10%. Please remember I said "pressed fiberglass" and not something recommended by "someone on the internet" who makes wild claims. The closest thing you can easily get is probably the material that HVAC guys use when they fabricate the large plenums up in your attic. Alternatively, the "blanket" material used in the old Cornwalls is good also. Check the Lansing forum and do a search - plenty of good info. Good Luck, -Tom
  4. I am very skeptical of being able to make these out of wood. There might be stability problems and whether they were made to the "same" geometry is asking for quite a bit. Personally, I have not seen any measures (and compared to the real thing). However I have heard people give the usual testimonials .... "if they sound as good as they look ...". It is usually the nicely oiled hard wood horns that get the biggest raves. Is that a good source of evidence? (insert smiley face here). I would hold out for actual Klipsch horns becoming available. good luck, -Tom
  5. I fully agree that eliminating an extra A-D & D-A conversion is always a good idea. BTW, those plots showing 70 dB or 140 dB down points on distortion are both impressive (even -70 dB is quite a bit actually). However I am suspect of the -140 dB measure, since it is very difficult to measure that low of a noise floor. Even if it was true, it may not be terribly meaningful since the "true floor" will be determined by a host of other contributors in your audio chain (including the compressor on the refrigerator down the hallway etc). Good luck, -Tom
  6. I am sorry to see that you are giving up on the K-510, but do what you have to do. Good luck, -Tom
  7. Chris, is it possible that the "reflector" is not near the diaphragm, rather it might be near the measurement microphone (perhaps some structure or hardware that is holding the microphone)? I am just guessing, but I have made a similar mistake in the past. -Tom
  8. Let's think this through guys, What is the bracing for? I believe it is to minimize vibration of the baffle. If your thinking is that the back panel moves and that motion in turn "generates sound" into the room, then that mechanism would lead to a trivial impact. If the baffle is relatively stationary, then there is little motion transferred to the back panel. In terms of reducing the energy in the cabinet due to the back wave, then flexing of the rear panel actually converts some of sound energy (SPL) inside the cabinet to mechanical energy (flexing, heat etc). Stiffening and dampening the baffle's motion is where you want to focus your efforts, IMO. Good Luck, -Tom
  9. There is definitely interest but please remember this is a big purchase, and these are big speakers (and not easily shipped). It will take time to sell them. It's a good deal of money and you have not shown any photos of them yet.
  10. Good Luck with your sale. I will suggest that it's best to provide many photos. Be sure to show the backside with serial numbers and crossover, any nicks, scratches or dings. Many will offer unsolicited advice on what your selling price "should be". There is no good answer since these are effectively too large to be shipped and the market varies by region and time. They may go quickly or you may need to wait 6 months. The "market" will ultimately determine the price, but you really do need to list an asking price since this forum is not an auction house. Good luck, -Tom
  11. IMHO, Wait until the treatments have ben installed and then listen to them for a few weeks. At that point decide what the weakness are that are bothering you (if any). I think that is a more focused strategy. BTW, unless you listen at crazy levels, I would not worry much about the the K77's being "delicate". The difference in sound between a type A vs type AA crossover is not dramatic (both having fresh caps). However, if I had the type AA, I would eliminate the diode protection and leave the "protection" solely to the 3rd order high pass filter to the tweeter. Good Luck, -Tom
  12. Glens, I think you are nit-picking, but I will join in. Over at DIYaudio, there are folks who consider panel speakers to be controlled directivity (your definition of "CD"), Okay, but I would hardly consider that as "constant" directivity or dispersion. This is probably enough said. There is no reason to confuse the issue.
  13. I have not looked up "elliptic tractrix". I suspect it is a marketing term and not a specification. This might be the source of confusion. Let's keep it simple. The "modified tractrix" is a design created by Klipsch (Roy Delgado). It does provide CD coverage and it does require CD compensation (the high boost that all CD horns require). Note: CD = constant dispersion, when the on-axis and off-axis frequency response is comparable (IOW, the horn does not "beam" as you go up in frequency). This is in contrast to a "tractrix" horn which is not a CD horn. There has been a bit of a cottage industry where folks (sellers) are fabricating "tractrix horns" and folks (buyers) are confusing them with "modified tractrix horns". They are not comparable. IMO, CD horns provide a number of benefits. Roy Delgado has mentioned these in snippets here and there. There is a fuller discussion by Floyd Toole (previously affiliated with Harman / JBL) about the advantages. Good Luck, -Tom
  14. Please remember that the K-510 horn is CD (constant dispersion). As with all CD horns, there needs to be some high end boost to counteract the on-axis drop off (CD compensation). Does the Crites crossover provide this? That is my guess on what the problem is (along with the sensitivities between the drivers being different than what the crossover was designed for. Before you do anything, check with Crites. The K-510 horn is a good one, it is probably just set up incorrectly. Do not worry this will be a fixable problem.
  15. My apologies, I do have some photos so it is doable. You might be surprised how simple it is. Right now this morning I need to get out and cheer my kids on in their little league game. I hope everyone gets a hit, makes a spectacular catch, turns a double play, etc. Otherwise the drive home can be very quiet. -Tom
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