Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

PrestonTom

Regulars
  • Content Count

    3603
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

515 Revered

About PrestonTom

  • Rank
    Forum Ultra Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    New England

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. To the OP and his original question, re-read what GLENS wrote in his first post. Personally, I think you are seeking a solution in search of a problem. The bass is fine on the Chorus. There are other things that I would tackle first. Good luck, -Tom
  2. Those speakers were a favorite a few years ago over at DIYAUDIO, for use in the "tapped horn". The cabinet must be designed for those woofers, but there is a very nice program that will help you (HORNRESP). Do NOT use a generic cabinet for the woofers in a tapped horn design and remember that the title, "tapped horn" is a bit of a misnomer. They are more of a transmission line design and do not share all of the advantages of a true compression loaded horn (although, for the bandwidth they can be conveniently sized). Good Luck, -Tom
  3. There are plenty of choices out there. Is there something in particular you are looking for? Is it the cosmetics? Are you comfortable with setting up a DSP crossover (would involve some measurement) . Are you game for a two-way system? Do you (or a friend) have any wood working skills. If you are amenable to some major improvement, you might consider a constant dispersion (CD) set up. Good Luck, -Tom
  4. IN the current configuration (along the short wall) how much space is there between the back of your head and the rear wall? How much would there be in the new configuration? What is the angle (between the speakers) in the the old and new configuration?
  5. The first problem is that the K-31 ....... is not a problem. It is not the weak link in the system. The other problem is that the cabinet (back volume and throat see especially) require a woofer with a certain Qts (relatively low), a largish VAS, and a somewhat low Fs. There are some other features also, but those are the biggies. There are not many substitutes. Pioneer had one, but it is no longer made (JWC was able to find it IIRC). BEC has identified one, but I am not convinced the Jubilee cabinet would not require some re-design for it to work best (that is a question for BEC) I know many on the forum reject the idea of design specs in favor of "some guy on the internet liked it .....". However on a horn loaded design, it is best to use some engineering rather than tossing parts around in a random fashion. IOW, there are a few ways to do it right, but many, many ways to do it wrong. What is it that you are trying to fix. Are you unhappy with some aspect of the bass ? What specifically? Good luck, -Tom
  6. Maybe a separate thread would be better for discussing modifications. This thread started out as a "buyer's guide". We should probably get back to that. Incidentally the K-31's are certainly not the weak link in the Jubilee, IMHO.
  7. If you are going to re-seat the diaphragm, then Google for info on how to use a post-it note to clean where the diaphragm sits (there may be some debris or corrosion) Also inspect the voice coil winding for any burn marks and do not touch the the diaphragm's inside. I guess Dean is saying the K-55 diaphragm is self-aligning. I did not know this. Good luck, -Tom
  8. Audio quest, you bring up a number of interesting points and you also remind me of a "difficulty" that I have when folks talk about Jubilees. Since you have listened to Jubilees (with the TAD drivers), you have a good idea of what Jubilees can do. They really are a very good Speaker and Roy Delgado should be commended. You have also probably read a number of posts that discuss the modifications that folks might do. The problem is (and hence my "difficulty") that folks may come away thinking that stock Jubilees are somehow deficient in their stock form. I am not beating up on my fellow Jubilee enthusiasts, but I will be blunt. Stock Jubilees are NOT deficient. For most folks, even in their stock form, they are probably the best speaker most will have ever heard. PERIOD!!! There are upgrades available for the DIYer. Even I have engaged in some and yes, there is an improvement. Does that mean I think the stock versions are inherently sub-standard. No, absolutely not. They are a great speaker. If you liked what you heard (with the TAD drivers), I am sure you will still like the stock Jubilees. If what you are asking is (my words): can any car be made to handle better by installing some expensive shocks and tires? Yes .... but it does not mean the stock car was somehow medicore. As far as the DSP crossovers go, there has been some dedicated work on improving the crossover settings and equalization on the Jubilee. I applaud these efforts. However, even using last year's technology (the Electrovoice Dx 38 with Roy's settings) the Jubilee will sound great. When I got/fabricated my Jubilees, I used a Behringer 2496 DCX (hardly high end stuff). You know what - it sounded great and I never felt that I was somehow "cheated". Part of my "difficulty" is that when folks read about all the modifications and details on setting up the DSP crossover, they come away thinking that the Jubilee is not plug-and-play. Nothing could be further from the truth. Get a used Electrovoice or Behringer if you want to save some money (or get something better) and start out with Roy's filter settings. They will sound wonderful (even with mid-priced amplifiers) In the future, if you want to get the fancy shocks and tires, then by all means go for it. However, please don't think you will be disappointed by stock version when it arrives on your door step. I am done ranting. I hope my comments are not taken as a knock on any of you who have gone the extra mile with what you have been able to do. It is important that folks thinking about getting Jubilees are not scared off by all the talk of "modifications". Good Luck, -Tom
  9. The ohm reading showing that it is not "open" is a fairly crude diagnostic of the diaphragm. The diaphragm can still be damaged or not centered properly and give you "normal" ohm readings. Perhaps you should e-mail BEC directly and tell him the symptoms and diagnostics already performed. As noted above, the diaphragms are old and they can fail in different ways. A note to the other guys: Are these diaphrams easily replaced by the user (self aligning etc)? I recently replaced some JBL diaphragms that were a bit picky and required some adjustment and measurement (rinse and repeat ....).
  10. There will be some output since you are still within an octave. The filter is not very steep. Since the rattle followed the driver to the other cabinet, you need to be precise in what you are hearing. Is it a "rattle" or a "harshness" when you run a tone through it? Is there a chance that the gasket between the driver and horn has dried and rotted? Are the bolts snug? Was the bug screen ever removed? Was the diaphragm ever serviced (perhaps it was not centered correctly) Since I am not there, my ignorant guess is that the diaphragm is failing or something got into the gap on the voice coil and is rattling or has shorted something. I would contact BEC about this since probabilistically you are probably looking at a new set of diaphragms. Good luck, -Tom
  11. At that frequency, it sounds, like a cabinet rattle or a damaged woofer and not the K-55 (mid-range). One step closer ... Skip the DC voltage check and let's look elsewhere. Why not disconnect the mid-range at the crossover output. Runs the test tones and see if the "rattle" remains
  12. Do you have access to an inexpensive voltmeter? If so, place the two probes on the two outputs (+ and -) of the amplifier. Do NOT short the probes across the outputs. Set the meter on volts DC (not AC). Measure both sides. Perhaps, have a friend look over your shoulder if you are not sure of yourself. If there was an appreciable DC going to the driver, then this could have damaged the diaphragm. This is only speculation on my part. Has the driver been modified by anyone or has the diaphragm ever been replaced (sometimes the new ones are not self-centering and can lead to this sort of problem). Again these are only guesses because we are using words like "harshness" and "rattle". I assume the other driver is not showing this problem? If there was DC, I believe the the AA has a series capacitor on it. That should have blocked any DC Good luck, -Tom
  13. I would run some test tones through the driver/horn. At a somewhat high level, do you hear any harshness? That can be harmonic distortion and could indicate a failing diaphragm. Since this happened after changing amplifiers, take a RMS voltmeter and make sure there is no appreciable DC voltage going to the driver (I am not sure what your crossover is). If the DC voltage is anything over 50 mV or so, let us know. In answer to your other idea, if any debris got into where the voice coil is, then that could cause your problem also. Again, listen for any harshness. Good Luck, -Tom
  14. I have corrected my mis-quote (or whatever you want to call it). You are correct, Art Weller is a good source of information. There are a number of other capable folks there also.
×
×
  • Create New...