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PrestonTom

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  1. Guys, Let me point out that we have not yet heard about what the specific problem is that needs to be cured. Is it a horn issue, is it a dispersion issue, is it a crossover issue , is it a driver issue, etc. I afraid this might be a case of "lets just change something and call it an "upgrade". I won't even touch the concept of "let's measure before and after" Good luck, -Tom
  2. Specifically, What is it about the midrange on the CW that you don't like? BTW, except for the vents on the cabinet, do not poke a hole in the back. Good luck, -Tom
  3. Don't worry about the drive. I would be concerned about the work that has already been done. If they have done a "round over" on the cabinet, then applying veneer will NOT be simple.
  4. Seriously, for the money you are talking about I would spend very little on a fancy CD player. With all the talk about "harshness" I would either use different speakers (that don't sound "harsh"), or I would get a moderately priced CD player and put the rest of the money toward a DSP unit and equalize the sound to tame the "harshness". Anywhere from a Behringer DEQ for $300 or Xilica for $1200. This is much better way to tackle the harshness. IOW, CD players are not very good as "equalizers". Good luck, -Tom
  5. Put the tools down and put your wallet back in your pocket. The bass should be fine on a Cornwall ( unless you are trying to do Home Theater stuff and really need a subwoofer). You mentioned that you have them tight in the corners. That is a good stating point (and please do not put them on stands or overly tall risers). Take a recording that is known to have a sufficient and well defined bass (I use Tracy Chapman, others can chime in). In a systematic and tedious fashion (same few tracks over and over again) try moving the speakers around a bit (and also changing the toe-in, but not at the same time). Try moving the listening chair around (you are manipulating the angle and the relative distance form the walls). You will quickly discover certain placements work better than others. Use those as the references and then further refine the positioning. Again, this is a slow process and not done while having a couple of beers (that comes later). Good Luck, -Tom
  6. PrestonTom

    Done sold

    Not really any of my business, but .... do we know if one the forum members was the buyer?
  7. There are some interesting suggestions here for good CD players (personally I like some of the Marantz models - depending on budget). However, the OP wants a CD player that is both good and "will tame the harshness in the speakers". That is really a different question. Asking a CD player to fix a flaw in the speakers is probably not going to go very far. I would look for other solutions (including different speakers), if that is the problem you are trying to fix. Good luck, -Tom
  8. Guys, this is getting ridiculous (but at least no one suggested new fancy capacitors on the crossover, yet). Let's do the obvious first since you do not yet have access to a volt meter. Have a look at the fuse, if it looks okay then it is (probably) okay (yes, I said probably). If the woofer is still in the cabinet, then get a flashlight and a small mirror (like a dental mirror) and examine whether the tinsel leads to the woofer look okay or whether they might be detached. Then, as said before, get a small battery and a cobble a couple of wires together (they do not need to be cryo-treated). Hold the ends to the terminals were the tinsel leads are. Then briefly touch the other end of the wires to a battery (you already pulled out the flashlight ....). Does the speaker go "thump" or does the cone move? It sounds like the OP may not have much experience, so I would caution against de-soldering the leads at the speaker end. Anyway, that would not come until later. Good luck, -Tom EDIT: I just saw that last reply. I assume "direct form the amp" means the fuse was bypassed. If so the woofer is needs to be fixed or replaced (most probable). However there is still a small chance that the woofer is okay but the tinsel lead has detached. Inspect and determine whether it might be fixable
  9. It would be perfect for Jubilees, IMHO (but I am biased). If you do go that route, go ahead and get the DSP (it is not that difficult and an intro level system will still give great results). There are some nice FAQs by Chris about starting out with Jubilees (requirements and best practices etc). Do a search and that will get you started. Good luck, -Tom
  10. PrestonTom

    Done sold

    Nicely done! GLWS
  11. Congratulations on your "new" speakers. I am sure you will enjoy them. Other than refreshing some capacitors or gaskets, may I suggest that you do NOT start with the "upgrades". Just listen and enjoy them. Experiment with their placement (distance from the wall or corner, listening angle, toe-in, etc, etc). This will be a tedious process and is not done in a single afternoon with a couple of beers. Rather, be systematic about it. This will provide much larger gains in performance. Listen, evaluate, enjoy, repeat, repeat, repeat. Sometime later if you can articulate some specific deficiencies, then come back with a clear description of what you want to change (not a nebulous statement of I want it to sound "better"), Then, you can get some reasoned advice from many of the members here. The urge to immediately "upgrade" is filled with problems. Good luck, -Tom
  12. The news is not good. What exactly happened? Did the amp put an enormous signal into the speaker or is it putting out 10s of volts?. With an RMS meter, is there any continuity between the leads (measuring a few to several Ohms)? Visually, do you see any damage (where the cone attaches in the front or the leads on the back)? When the speaker gets re-coned the voice coil will also be replaced. So it is fixable and the cost (parts and labor) is certainly less than a new speaker. However, the cost to ship each way can burn up any cost savings. On an optimistic note, phone a few local music stores or guitar shops. They will have someone on staff who can fix this locally (ask the usual questions...). Good luck, -Tom
  13. Come on guys, the presenting complaints are "the high and possibly the middle frequencies are washy, messy, and shrill -- painful to hear" Unless the guy is exaggerating, Do you really think this is wiring, crossover rebuild, capacitors? For instance, capacitors that built up a series resistance are going to decrease the energy in the high frequencies, That decrease would hardly be described as sounding "shrill". Look at the big issues. Is it on both sides (both cabinets)? Has a test tone been run through it to determine whether it is woofer, squawker, or tweeter? Playing music (of some unspecified type) is really a rotten test signal. There are much better ways to diagnose. Personally, I would make sure that none of the drivers have been damaged. I hope this guy gets it solved without doing the "obligatory let's put new caps in the crossover". I am not unsympathetic, the OP has not been very articulate in what the exact problem is. Good luck, -Tom
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