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Coytee last won the day on July 4 2016

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About Coytee

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    Klipsch Forum Lifer
  • Birthday 04/11/1960

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    Knoxville, TN
  1. LSI woofers - K43 or?

    Maybe they had been replaced with the lessor cost 33's?
  2. Plumbing question (1/2" copper)

    As I contemplated.... (with the Cherub staring at me).... I think I'm liking the copper tube idea more & more. I've never used it but for the water supply to the fridge (1/4" as I recall) Anyway, what would be the pros/cons of flaring the end? I don't mind buying the flair tool if need be (I'm guessing my wife's cousin next door probably has one I could borrow for such short use) Also... I was scratching my head on why copper tubing instead of braided?? The braided would need a larger hole to go through the wall (point for tubing) The braided though would then screw on to both ends (point for direct connection and getting away from compression ends)
  3. Plumbing question (1/2" copper)

    The 'vanity' in the bathroom is a reconfigured Bombay chest. I pulled two drawers out and modified them to fit around the -plumbing The third drawer is fixed in place and non-operable. (it actually turned out pretty nice) Sistine Chapel.... yeah....you can contemplate a lot of things in there. As for the thing in the back corner, it's yet another Cherub that is hung from the ceiling. Not only good for scaring little kids, it will make the adults weird out too....seems it has eyes that keep staring at you.
  4. Plumbing question (1/2" copper)

    I shut the water off more than you might realize however, it's primarily done in basement killing the pump... so your point is well taken.
  5. Plumbing question (1/2" copper)

    Interesting (regarding the dual outlet).... so you are suggesting I attach my supply line (I usually use braided) from the secondary output and run it back THROUGH the wall and then simply connect them to their respective hot/cold connectors. This would essentially leave everything in the wall intact and make the bathroom my focal point if I ever need to do work here. Interesting thought... I don't "love" the idea (I'm OCD about some things and controlling something from another room would take some getting used to BUT... it would fix several issues too....) hmmmm.... The wall behind the vanity (which is really a repurposed dresser). I forget the name... the dresser has a pronounced bulge in the front and uses curved drawers. Point being, it would hide all the sins.
  6. Plumbing question (1/2" copper)

    Union / coupling.... you're as bad as my wife.... "you know what I meant" (isn't that what they always tell us in spite of us trying to teach them that words DO matter?) Ok, you're right... it's a coupling. I appreciate the clarification. Here's a picture.... interesting... I took a picture of the walls in the bathroom and suddenly can't find them. Oh well, here's a ceiling shot. You can see some 'framing' on the wall. The lower portions have the fabric background in then. Yes, we have Cherubs floating about in the bathroom, keeping an eye on everyone who dares to enter. Ceiling was hand painted, walls were hand painted and then finished with the fabric things... the crown molding is made up of seven (yes 7) pieces on each wall to get it built up the way she wanted it. So I'm not going to do anything that messes up this room. Back to copper... because of that strap, everything is held in place as a single unit. I might have to take more apart to get the coupling separated. There is zero room on the left for my little copper cutter to squeeze in there (the small type for tight spaces).
  7. Plumbing question (1/2" copper)

    Didn't think about cutting the stud.... interesting thought. I would have to remove more drywall... might be difficult on the bathroom side. That room has some 'treatments' where she hand applied various shades to get what she wanted. Also (and I don't THINK it exists in this area) most of the walls have little art-deco things done to them where she attached a picture frame to the wall and inside the frame, put down some kind of fabric. So the room has various "squares" spaced along the walls with this fabric treatment done. Leaving the internal wall intact would be important. House on slab or crawl space? HA! none of the above!! It's a walk out basement (so I guess that makes it a slab) Bathroom in question is on the 1st floor (middle floor). Room underneith is finished basement (not going to break into ceiling) and room above is bedroom/bathroom. I know it's a union, I"ve already opened the wall. He had something like 8" stubs coming out of the plate, then mated them to another section... Will try to get picture later on, I just got back from trip into town. Right now, I'm thinking on trying to sweat it off. Put something protective between the pipe and stud. Take it off and go from there... Funny how she always thinks these projects will "be done by noon" Project is defined as deconstruct not one, but two openings to the kitchen. One was in fact done in about 30 minutes (other than nail pulling). The main one though has several sets of wires going to it. Then of course, we have the plumbing situation.... All of this because she thinks it will look better if she can see the island from a certain seat..... I told her to just move the darn island!
  8. Plumbing question (1/2" copper)

    Setup: In the kitchen, we have a wall (duh!) On the other side of this wall is a bathroom. Contained in this common wall is the water supply/drain for the bathroom lavatory. On the kitchen side of this wall, we're going to add some floor cabinets and a secondary sink. I've broken into the wall to see what I'm up against. The existing copper lines come up through the floor plate. One is close enough to the left stud that I will not be able to get a pipe cutter in there. The other one is close enough to the back drywall (bathroom side) that I "probably" won't be able to get my cutter in there. Irrespective of that, they need a TEE installed in them so I can create some water supply on the kitchen side of the wall. Worse come to worse, I can always pull out a saw and cut things off but, don't want to (bathroom side has a copper support strap soldered to each supply making it pretty firmly attached without creating more issues on that side of the wall) Each line coming out of the floor plate has a union which brings me to my question..... In general, is it easier/better to heat/remove the existing union (and replace it with a TEE) or cut them and install a TEE in close proximity to the union? I personally prefer fewer connections however, this is so close to the wall, I'm not so sure I'll be able to get all the old solder off and that will make mounting the TEE quite a bit more difficult. Although I have replaced a fitting after melting the solder to remove it, this is near touching the stud and it's a tight space for me and my MAP gas.... So, what say you.... de-solder the union or cut a new spot? (both have issues, if I cut a new spot, I'll have to cut it twice to compensate a bit for the addition of the TEE and, if I leave any burrs on the part next to the wall, it will be a real PITA getting it to fit (since I have so little space to work))
  9. Horn adaptor for K-77 replacement

    Dave, is the pattern just an ellipse that happens to fit or does it follow any certain profile? (is it a tracktrix (sp) for example)
  10. Modding KPT-456 to KPT-942?

    The rules certainly may have changed....but before giving up, I'd try another dealer then. They used to be available. Let me clarify in case we're not on the same page.... you used to be able to (and as best I know, still can) buy the whole UNIT(horn/driver/base) If you are asking about the horn lens itself then I agree..... I don't think anyone sells it. (Klipsch isn't in the 'parts' business) So are you being clear about the question? (your question is you want the whole assembly even though you are evidently only going to use the horn itself) Maybe you could order it with the driver you need, then sell the one you have. (just tossing ideas on the wall)
  11. TAD 4002

    Some interesting tidbits on BE for a Saturday morning. There will be a test later in the afternoon... Uniquely strong and light, beryllium is used to make cell phones, missiles and aircrafts. But workers who handle the metal need to watch out, as airborne beryllium has been known to be highly toxic. Named after beryllos, the Greek name for the mineral beryl, the element was originally known as glucinium — from Greek glykys, meaning "sweet" — to reflect its characteristic taste. But the chemists who discovered this unique property of beryllium also found that it is in fact highly toxic and should therefore never be tasted, according to Jefferson Lab. In fact, the metal, its alloys and salts should only be handled in accordance with specific work codes. Beryllium is also classified as a carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer and it can cause lung cancer in people who get exposed to beryllium on a daily basis because of their occupations that require them to mine or process the metal, said Dr. Lew Pepper, a medical researcher at Queens College Center for the Biology of Natural Systems in New York. Despite its toxicity, the element is highly useful because of its unique qualities. For instance, it is one of the lightest metals and has one of the highest melting points among the light metals, according to the Los Alamos National Laboratory. Steel gray in color, beryllium's modulus of elasticity is about one-third greater than steel. Beryllium is nonmagnetic and resistant to concentrated nitric acid. It also has superior thermal conductivity and resists oxidation in air in normal temperatures. Just the facts Atomic number (number of protons in the nucleus): 4 Atomic symbol (on the Periodic Table of the Elements): Be Atomic weight (average mass of the atom): 9.012182 Density: 1.85 grams per cubic centimeter Phase at room temperature: Solid Melting point: 2,348.6 degrees Fahrenheit (1,287 degrees Celsius) Boiling point: 4,479.8 F (2,471 C) Number of isotopes (atoms of the same element with a different number of neutrons): 12, including one stable isotope. Most common isotopes: 9Be (Natural abundance: 100 percent) Beryllium discovery and use Beryllium was discovered in 1798 by the French chemist Louis Nicolas Vauquelin, who found it in the oxide form in beryl and a green-colored variety of beryl, emerald.The metal was isolated in 1828 by two chemists, Friedrich Wölhler from Germany and Antoine Bussy from France, who independently reduced beryllium chloride (BeCl2) with potassium in a platinum crucible, according to the Jefferson Lab. These days, beryllium is typically obtained from the minerals beryl and bertrandite in a chemical process or through the electrolysis of a mixture of molten beryllium chloride and sodium chloride, the Jefferson Lab reports. Beryllium is found in about 30 mineral species, including bertrandite, beryl, chrysoberyl, and phenacite, according to the Los Alamos National Laboratory. Beryl and bertrandite are the most important commercial sources of the element and its compounds. Beryllium is alloyed with copper or nickel to make springs, gyroscopes, electrical contacts, spot-welding electrodes and non-sparking tools, according to the Royal Society of Chemistry. Other beryllium alloys are used in high-speed aircrafts and missiles, as well as spacecraft and communication satellites. Beryllium copper is also used in windshield frame, brake discs, support beams, and other structural components of the space shuttle. Thanks to its low thermal neutron absorption cross-section, beryllium is used in nuclear reactors as a reflector or moderator. Moreover, the high melting point of beryllium oxide makes it a useful material for nuclear work and ceramic applications, according to the Los Alamos National Laboratory.
  12. Modding KPT-456 to KPT-942?

    I don't pretend to know all the answers but I thought the K402 WAS available as a stand alone purchase. (horn plus driver plus stand as a unit package). I thought it was "about" $1,200 (per assembly AND this is old understanding, about 9 years old so any pricing certainly might have changed by now). They don't often come up for sale so one might be waiting a while. Have you asked @MetropolisLakeOutfitters about their availability??
  13. TAD 4002

    Though I've never removed mine but I once saw (on Ebay) an OEM replacement..... looks to me like the honeycomb cover is actually part of the diaphragm assembly. (I did once take the front off to see the diaphragm, I just didn't remove the diaphragm assembly itself)
  14. Underground Outdoor Landscape Subs

    I'll bet the bugs & worms love it