wayneair

My initial thought is they remind me of Heresy I’s and II’s on steroids. Yet their price point sets them right in between Forté IV and Cornwall IV. Seems like that may be a tall order. Won’t really know until some more third party reviews come out. But with the amount of knowledge and experience that went into them, I’d wager they’re going to make it a tough choice for anyone in the market for a set around that price range.

I think at this point, there may be 2-4 people that know the reason, whether a decision or mistake, made on a late Friday afternoon about 27 or 28 years ago. 🤣 it is what it is. Maybe I’ll just split the difference and install a 5Ω. 🤷‍♂️

I didn’t think it would. I’m wondering why they changed from 4uF to 6uF.

@MicroMara Looked around and dug up the caps I pulled from the '95 set, they're even a different kind of cap, aluminum electrolytic, than those in my '98 set and your set, metallized polyester. Would the capacitor material dictate a change to 6uF from 4uF?

That's schematic for the '95 set I did. But here's my '98 set, which has the 6uF, like your set, instead of the 4uF

JEM’s list of availability kits only shows KG-2 and KG-4. Mine are from the late 90s KG .5 line (.5, 1.5, 2.5, etc. through 5.5). The KG-4 looks closely related to Forté with the rear radiator. Would they have the info for non-heritage vintage? I guess it’d be worth a call to inquire at the very least. i will say that the ‘98 3.5s seem to way more bass than the ‘95 set, like surprisingly more.

Restored a ‘95 set, crossover cap values matched the schematic on Mr. Crites’ site; 4uf, 8uf, and 24uf. Starting on a ‘98 set, but they have a 6uf instead of a 4uf. Everything else is the same. Would this be an improvement, or was it necessitated by a slight change in the tweeter, is there no significant difference between 4uf and 6uf? I’d find it hard to believe the change was arbitrary. In any case, I’m leaning toward replacing old with new of the same value unless there’s a good reason not to.

Yessir

Were these two changes done at the same time or am I understanding that the changes happened at arbitrary times? Reason being I just picked up a set without labels. They have k-22 woofers but k-53 mids.

Restoring an '86 Forte I set. Does anyone know what this finish is called, and how to reproduce/recreate it? It's similar to the finish on a KG 3.5 set I recently did, but the raised "spots" on the 3.5 set are more like dots, and like flat splotches on the Forte set.

Where is the sponsorship page?

Well, looking at the rectangular input cup, I don’t see “8 ohms”, however I do see “1986 KLIPSCH AND ASSOCIATES, INC.” Seems that you’ve inadvertently pointed me in the right direction. Guess that pretty much answers my question. 😆. Many thanks kind sir.

I recently acquired a very nice Forté I set. One of the previous owners removed the labels. Is there a way to date them based on appearance, driver model numbers, the “..completed and inspected” internal label, and/or crossover components? They’re oak, light green grills, the passive radiator had no sealing medium, and the crossover autotransformer is labeled “T2A-D1”. I understand that T10A autotransformer replaced the T2A at some point. The “completed and inspected” is dated 9-9, 9-10, and 9-11, which I don’t think really helps.. TYIA

I’ve scoured the forums for clarification, can’t find pertinent info. If anything, I’m more confused. Previously restored a set of KG 5.2s, replaced the metal domes with new Ti domes, there was no ferrofluid. The 3.5 domes are phenolic/kapton(?) with ferrofluid. I plan on upgrading these with Ti domes. The question is do I leave the ferrofluid, clean out and use new ferrofluid, or clean out and leave it dry? If I leave it or clean and use new fluid, do I need to find an adhesive to seal it? There is currently no adhesive. If I had to choose what to do right now, it’d be a roll of the dice. TYIA

Oh man, I feel bad, I’m sorry I didn’t reply after you asked for my thoughts, I thought I would get an email, or I just didn’t see it. You’re probably done by now. For what it’s worth, to be able to easily pick it up, what I do for boards is either put a small foot under each corner and use small washers to level it if need be, or route out an inverse half-round on the edge in the center of the short sides of the base rectangle.