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The History Kid

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About The History Kid

  • Birthday 01/14/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Iowa
  • Interests
    Guess...
  • My System
    Berseria System (7.2.1)
    See Build Link

    Symphonia System (5.1)
    AVR: RX-A780
    BluRay: Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD
    TV: Vizio E40-C2
    Main L/R: Klipsch 1981 Heresy OO I w/ Crites XO
    Main C: Klipsch RC-3 II
    Sub: Klipsch KSW-15

    Xillia System (B Zone from Symphonia System) (2.0)
    Main L/R: Klipsch KG-2WO

    Huxian System (2.0)
    SR: Yamaha R-N500
    SA/CD: Yamaha CD-N500
    Turntable: Technics SL-1500
    Cart: Nakamichi CR-1A
    Main L/R: Klipsch 1988 Forte OO

    Zestiria System (2.0)
    Amp: IIIP 40x2 Tube Amp
    Main L/R: Klipsch RP-160M

    Garage System (2.0)
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V2500
    L/R: Klipsch KP-101BR/KOMA

    Misc Gear/Systems:
    Headphones: Sennheiser HD 599 S
    Work Headphones: Klipsch Status
    Work BT: Klipsch Heritage Groove
    Portable: Klipsch Groove

    Amplifier Emeritus
    Aiwa: CX-NAJ20, CX-NAJ305, CX-NDS50
    Denon: AVR-1513, AVR-X4200
    Emotiva: Fusion 8100, MC-700, UPA-1, UPA-2, UPA-5, UPA-500, XPA-2 I, XPA-3 I
    Harman: AVR-354
    Integra: DRX-3.1, DTM-40.4, DTR-40.3
    Kenwood: VR-305, VR- 414
    Marantz: NR1501, SR5004
    Nakamichi: AV-500
    Pioneer: SA-420
    Rotel: RSP-1582
    Yamaha: RX-A840, RX-V390, RX-V530, RX-V663, RX-V730

    Speaker Emeritus
    Aiwa: SX-C610, SX-NAJ22, SX-NAJ302, SX-NAJ502, SX-R145, SX-R290
    Emotiva: UOM-6.2
    Kenwood: KS-303HT; SW-22HT
    Klipsch: Heresy II, KG-1.2, KLF-C7, KSW-12, KV-1, Quintet Gen II, RB-3CH, RB-25, RC-35, RC-52 II, RF-25, RS-42 II, RSW-10, RSX-4, RSX-5
    Jamo: Cornet 175, E 6 CEN, SURR 150
    JBL: N 38
    MTX: AAL 540
    Pioneer: CS-G53
    Polk: DSW-PRO440, DSW-PRO660, TSi-100
    Sony: SS-MB100H
    Yamaha: NSA 636, YST-160, YST-SW012
    Zenith: Allegro 2000
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Community Answers

  1. The short answer is yes. There's more to a sub than just the driver. I had an RSW-10 outperform a PSW PRO 660i - which is a 12" Polk subwoofer. The Polk wasn't a bad woofer, it just wasn't designed the same as the RSW-10, used a different cabinet acoustic method, better amp - just all around different. Even a move from the R-12SW to the RP-1200SW would be a major difference in sonic experience.
  2. That one you're showing is in pretty rough shape. The 02-20144 refers to the matching Klipsch part number, they aren't the same diaphragm based on what I've had in hand. These aren't the ones I have, but they're similar: Amazon.com: Dayton Audio OS-2M Outrigger HD Speaker Spike Set Medium with Black Steel Base 2 Pcs : Electronics
  3. Here are the diaphragms and XO's: CD76TiM Titanium Tweeter Diaphragm - Pair - FREE US Shipping! – Crites Speakers RF-3, RF-3 II Crossover - Pair, New - FREE US Shipping! – Crites Speakers I don't remember which feet I purchased, but basically I purchased a set that has a beam across the bottom of the speaker rather than the floating feet that comes with them. This relieves some of the stress on the corners and can help with issues with the front baffle and the feet.
  4. Everyone is different, there are many things you can do to them. My RF-3's have B&K crossovers in them that were reworked. I don't know if Bob's son has taken over the business, but if he has you could opt to get them built. If not, if you're good at soldering, replacing the caps would be a good bet. I'd have to double check, but I also know we beefed up the diaphragm in the horns too, fixed up the internal padding a bit and replaced the feet to help with the front baffle separation that some of the earlier Reference II's had. If you really want the look - you can use RF-35 drivers in the RF-3's as well - removes the black dust cap - but you aren't gaining anything over cosmetics (I personally like the caps myself). The XO's are definitely where I'd start though, they're the most practical and most likely to improve your overall experience. EQ them well (I actually just use tone controls and they open up well), feed them plenty of power, toe them, and pound it. Should be a great experience.
  5. I'm late to this, but to answer your question, you're talking about two fundamentally different series of speaker - as I mentioned in my post that you quoted. The R-28F's are the lesser of the two, with the IMG cone and aluminum tweeters. The RF-3's use cerametallic woofers and titanium tweeters. The 28's - as mentioned - lend themselves to the budget line of Klipsch speakers, while the 3's are more associated with the Reference Premier line. Although the RF-3's are first generation speakers, they're still some of the best budget pickups you can get, and with very little in the way of upgrades can be made to perform absolutely above and beyond their pricepoint.
  6. Please clarify: R-800F, not FA? Are you referring to "Height" or "Hi?" If "Hi" they should be jumped to "Low." If "Height" they're atmos channels. So it's kind of a big deal to make sure you're clarifying and getting these terms right.
  7. This is a learning experience for me, so I have a stupid question to ask. Wouldn't this cause more intermittent issues? It doesn't seem to happen once it has a signal. Case in point, I used it last night after it stopped working and it's still working now. If it was something as described, would it be more intermittent, or not necessarily?
  8. I'm scratching my head here. After about an hour it's responding again? Does this sound like a short? I'm just...stumped. What could possibly cause something like this? I sat here and even did the thumb-test on the lead - nothing. Then 45 minutes later the sub suddenly has signal when I do the same test? It's not in auto mode - at least not that I can tell. Is my sub haunted? @OO1 - noted that. The most reviews I've seen has been for Edwards Electronics, so if I do repairs, it'll probably be there.
  9. It's convenient you bring this up. Not sure, but the sub is back to being unresponsive after another outage. I'm not even getting feedback this time off the cable, so I'm back to waiting for options for repair or to see if I can get a replacement plate amp used. I'm wondering if that was all coincidental and the issue was still the sub. I'm trying to weigh the options between repair and replace - if I replace it's unlikely I will go the Klipsch route since I can't fit the 16 in the space, and I'd like to go with a 15 in some form. But I'm also trying to weigh the value with it.
  10. I don't, unfortunately. But there should be a way to mute that - I wish I could say for sure, but if that's the issue it comes down to two things: 1. Disruption from signals around it. 2. A problem with hardware. Have you tried calling Klipsch or messaging them?
  11. Does it only happen when the sub turns on and upon pairing? I know that a lot of Klipsch wireless devices tend to have audible effects when powering and connecting but can be muted using some method or another.
  12. Amplifiers will fail, it is just a matter of time. Fixed it for you. That's literally all electronics. Kinda why there's an industry for it. The only plate amp I've ever had fail me was on my old HTIB Kenwood SW-22HT 8" sub - which should surprise no one.
  13. Bi-wiring wouldn't get you anything. Especially on an AVR. Just use the jumpers and run one set of cables from the speakers to the terminals. You'll run your rears to the rear surround (or side surround) terminals, and the atmos to the height terminals.
  14. The RF-3's use 8" drivers, not 6" like the RB-3's. You should be able to use the RC-3's woofer, however. I'd still probably replace both if you can.
  15. Glad Klipsch got you sorted. I don't know the value on the 4520CI. The cursory view I did says between $300 and $600. RC-3's are probably in the $100-$200 range.
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