Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

The History Kid

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1708 Legendary


About The History Kid

  • Rank
    Connoisseur of Fresh Beats
  • Birthday 01/14/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern Iowa
  • Interests
  • My System
    Legendia System (9.1)
    Pre/Pro: Emotiva MC-700
    Amp L/R: Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 1
    Amp B: Emotiva UPA-2
    Amp HTR: Emotiva UPA-500
    BDP: Oppo BDP-103
    CDDA: Yamaha CD-N500
    Turntable: Technics SL-1500
    Phono Stage: Schiit Mani
    Media: Sony PS2, PS3 and PS4
    Dell Inspiron 3668
    TV: LG 49UH6100
    Main L/R: Klipsch RF-3 II w/ Crites XO
    Main C: Klipsch RC-7
    High L/R: Klipsch RB-5MA
    Side L/R: Klipsch RS-3 II
    Rear L/R: Klipsch RS-3 II
    Sub: Klipsch RSW-15

    Symphonia System (5.1)
    AVR: Integra DTR-40.3
    Media: Google Chromecast Gen 2
    TV: Vizio E40-C2
    Main L/R: Klipsch 1981 Heresy OO I w/ Crites XO
    Main C: Klipsch RC-3 II
    Rear L/R: Klipsch RSX-4
    Sub: Klipsch KSW-15

    Xillia System (2.0)
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V2500
    Main L/R: Klipsch KG-2WO

    Phantasia System (Console 2.0)
    AVR: Integra DTM-40.4
    SA/CD: Integra DPS-10.5
    Turntable: Pioneer PL-990
    Main L/R: Klipsch RSX-5

    Zestiria System (2.0)
    AVR: Yamaha R-N500
    Main L/R: Klipsch RF-3 II

    Garage System (Zone 2 from Living Room) (4.0)
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V730
    A L/R: Klipsch KP-101BR/KOMA
    B L/R: Klipsch KG-1.2

    Deck System (B Zone from Xillia System) (2.0)
    Main L/R: Klipsch AW-650

    Misc Gear/Systems:
    Headphones: Klipsch Status
    Work Headphones: Klipsch R6h
    Earphones: Klipsch R6e
    Portable: Klipsch Groove

    Amplifier Emeritus
    Aiwa: CX-NAJ20, CX-NAJ305, CX-NDS50
    Denon: AVR-1513
    Emotiva: Fusion 8100, UPA-1
    Harman: AVR-354
    Kenwood: VR-305, VR- 414
    Marantz: NR1501, SR5004
    Nakamichi: AV-500
    Pioneer: SA-420
    Yamaha: RX-V390, RX-V530, RXV-663BL, RX-V2500

    Speaker Emeritus
    Aiwa: SX-C610, SX-NAJ22, SX-NAJ302, SX-NAJ502, SX-R145, SX-R290
    Emotiva: UOM-6.2
    Kenwood: KS-303HT; SW-22HT
    Klipsch: KLF-C7, KSW-12, KV-1, Quintet Gen II, RB-3CH, RB-25, RC-35, RC-52 II, RF-25, RS-42 II, RSW-10
    Jamo: Cornet 175, E 6 CEN, SURR 150
    JBL: N 38
    MTX: AAL 540
    Pioneer: CS-G53
    Polk: DSW-PRO440, DSW-PRO660, TSi-100
    Sony: SS-MB100H
    Yamaha: NSA 636, YST-160, YST-SW012
    Zenith: Allegro 2000

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

8589 profile views
  1. Klipsch RSW 15 vs Klipsch R-115 better deal?

    Yes I have. We did a shootout with them with identical placement in the same room. Hands down the RSW performed better for music. I don't do movies much, so I can't comment nor care to for them. You have been here long enough to know specs on paper are but a mere fraction of the story. Those specs also come from rooms with the most ideal setups and treatments. So, to look at a piece of paper and assume something is close enough is a bit short sighted, wouldn't you say? The 115sw is one of the best Klipsch has offered in a long time, but I will always pick the RSW simply because it delivers performance that runs circles around the R series when it comes to accurate bass production in music. There's no contest.
  2. Klipsch RSW 15 vs Klipsch R-115 better deal?

    The RSW series is just a huge cut above, especially for music. Klipsch has not made a suitable replacement for them other than the RT subs. They do blow the 115s out of the water. No question. The problem is their age, mainly.
  3. How much are Rf82's worth.

    $300-$500 depending on location and cabinet color. Pics?
  4. Found Klipsch speaker

    Pictures would be good. Are you wanting to keep them or sell them? If the latter, a location would be beneficial too.
  5. What I really, realy, really, really, really miss about...

    I dunno. What is the old saying, thebes? You're only as old as you feel/act? I miss not paying bills. And not paying bills. And not paying bills. And not paying bills. And---
  6. 15” vs 12” klipsch subwoofer

    My overall assumption is that it really just depends on placement and design, rather than size.
  7. 15” vs 12” klipsch subwoofer

    I don't know that it'd be better. I don't think it'd be worse than having just a 15" though. I ran both a 10 and a 15 for a while until the 10 sold, and have little in the way of problems. I attribute that to the fact that the subs were of the same series. The only thing I'd say is, you'd have to manually turn off the 15 if it was being too boomy during music playback. The R-11x series of subs I haven't taken a shine to, they seem to be more movie oriented than the old RSW line - that may be the actual reason I haven't warmed up to them either. I suppose you could always have an extra sub on the side for a smaller setup someplace else if the 12 doesn't work out in your main setup. Just seems like a bit of money to spend for an experiment that may not work without a backup plan.
  8. 15” vs 12” klipsch subwoofer

    Can't beat a good ol' fashioned 72" woofer though...
  9. 15” vs 12” klipsch subwoofer

    My assessment of subs has always been that smaller drivers can deliver a better punch, but won't punch nearly as deep. That tends to be why you see a lot of recommendations for the 6" designs in the Klipsch lineups versus the 8". I know when I upgraded from my 12" Polk sub to the RSW-10 - I heard a huge sound change that I enjoyed, but I also know going from the 10 to the 15 sounded equally as "better." I think they each have their applications. Both can be punchy, both can be boomy. Depends on placement, design, things like that.
  10. RF7 II's vs RP280F vs RF3 ll's

    Sigh........Joe, where should I begin with replying to this wall of "hope I didn't offend" text...? I have been a member here for going on 4 years now, 12 if you want to be technical and include a previous username. I've seen things be done in certain ways that work, and in certain ways that don't. It's the story of life, some things work and some things don't. Some things go the way we plan and others don't. I've done my fair share of trial and error enough times to say I've participated in that loop a fair number of times as well. I will never claim any expertise, and I will never chime in on a subject I know nothing about unless it's asking a question to learn more. You asked about upgrading an AVR from one unit that is the Pioneer Elite SC-91, a reputable unit with serious power and a good feature set against the Denon AVR-X7200, another reputable unit with serious power and good features. But you didn't mention as to why. Why is that important here? Well, what did you want out of the upgrade? Power? Features? Upgradability? If so, could there be more cost effective ways to do it? There are. There's always multiple options out there for what a person wants to do. So when a person comes to the group here, we want to make sure that someone gets a good reply, an array of responses, and information to make a good well informed decision so that they don't have buyers remorse later. We all have upgradeitis, that's not what anyone asked you about. It's about ordering and maximizing your current upgrade potential. Now that being said, I've worked with the public for ten years (I don't anymore, for similar reasons as this). I've seen plenty of people come up to me insisting they know what product they want, and assuming that it's right for them. Then they get mad at me when I don't confirm their "well thought out (usually not)" research and refute it. I have never been in the business of enabling someone in the wrong direction. I'll push someone all day to upgrade, but only if it's the right option for them. I'd push someone into other products - again if it works for them. It seems to me, with your response above, you already made your choice as to what your updates are going to be. With that being said pardon my "kid" self (a moniker you haven't been around long enough yet to understand why it's there) and ask you, if that's the case, why are you here asking for advice? Why do you have such a problem with answering simple questions? Incidentally, what you're trying to do with an all in one approach with the X7200 will not yield the results you want. Bi-wiring as you're mentioning will reduce your WPC, thus making the point of bi-wiring moot. You need 2x the power for 3 dB of sound difference, which bi-wiring off of an AVR will not yield. You're better off to run a single lead off of it. With RF-7's you could potentially be better off buying a nice slim PreAmp, and a beefy power amp. But I digress, you've already made it clear that the X7200 is THE ONLY OPTION for you. But while you're focusing on my simple question and blowing it out of proportion, I and almost every other member (every other) that have replied have all suggested examining the speakers first. At any rate, good luck to you - whatever you do, hopefully you will prove yourself right.
  11. RF7 II's vs RP280F vs RF3 ll's

    Agreed. The SC-91 is no slouch. I'd put attention elsewhere. I've been doing more 2 channel listening lately, so I'd do mains as well, but my pointing at the center simply stems from it being the weak point in the current setup.
  12. RF7 II's vs RP280F vs RF3 ll's

    Easy there, Joe. No need to fly off the cuff. You came here asking for advice. You mentioned a number of upgrade options and some of them make better sense than others for the situation you are in. You mentioned you have an SC-91, but the features and power between it and the Denon you mentioned don't show much in the way of an upgrade, thus I asked you "why?" It was a simple question. No need to be defensive about it.
  13. RF7 II's vs RP280F vs RF3 ll's

    ...my question is: Why? What does the 7200 have that your current AVR does not? The RP-450C is not spec'd to match with the RF-7 II nor the RF-7 III. You'd want either the RC-64 II or III. If you upgrade subs, I'd suggest upgrading to twin 15's if you currently have twin 12's. One 15 does not equal two 12's.
  14. Klipsch RF7 II and Denon AVR-X7200WA question

    Another thing to note - just remembered this while recalling how my RF-3 XO's looked when I replaced them... Even if you did bi-wire - you're still running them into the same passive XO. You are not sending 60 W to the tweeter and 60 W to the woofer. You're sending a straight 120 to the speaker - period. The problem with that is for you to hear any difference in sound pressure, you need 2x the watts, which you don't get because you dropped the single line per channel from 75 to 60 when you bi-wired. At most you'd get an extra 2dB of sound pressure, which you will not hear. 1 W of power with your RF-7's produce 101 dB of sound pressure. 2 W produces 104 dB 4 (5) W produces 107 dB 8 (10) W produces 110 dB 16 (15) = 113 dB 32 (30) = 116 dB 64 (65) = 119 dB 128 (130) = 122 dB 256 (250) = 125 dB MAX 512 (500) = 128 dB 1024 (1000) = 131 dB PEAK
  15. New center

    From the feedback I heard that is anything but true. The horn in of itself is different, and the port designs are also different. They may be similar in timbre, but they wouldn't be nearly as seamless as the 450. Again, the 62 is a fantastic speaker, and I have no problems recommending it when all else fails, but if you had the option and the budget, the 450 is the speaker designed to mate with your configuration.