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The History Kid

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Everything posted by The History Kid

  1. They're listed on Klipsch's Online Authorized Dealers: Authorized USA Online Dealers | Klipsch
  2. Unfortunately I'm not a very good reference for tubes since I'm mostly solid state myself. The monoprice was affordable and the footprint was right for the space I was handling and the speakers I was powering. The only other brand I'm aware of at a price that I'd call reasonable is Schiit.
  3. This is absolute bunk, and I'm disappointed there's someone in the team that's making up numbers like this. These speakers aren't "rated" for room sizes - no speaker is, and if it is, it shouldn't be.
  4. As long as you disconnect the passive inside the speaker that should be possible. Otherwise your 4-way AXO won't do a darn thing other than add a headache. To be clear it's not possible because of the HF/LF terminals on the back. All four terminals may as well be two as they're shipped. To use them as HF/LF you will need to take the passive crossover on the back of the cup out of the equation. As for tube amps, I reckon that will depend largely on what you're mainly using your RF-5's for. I could make the simple recommendation of one of the Monoprice 50-watt tube amps, which power a pair of RSX-5's beautifully for me, but that might not be the best in your situation if we don't know what it is.
  5. Most of that will have to do with the power supply unit of the PC, and the proximity of the pre section in the PC to the rest of the topography of the other components (including how good the shielding is). My Dell computers were terrible with noise, mostly because the motherboards in them are just standard breadbox boards that aren't really built with anything other than cost cutting in mind. When I moved to a custom build with my MSI board, there was still noise until I swapped out the power cable with just a little bit better quality one. In addition, heat can cause significant problems with components in PCs. You will see degradation over time. Laptops almost always will run hotter than desktops.
  6. I am still skeptical of wireless speaker systems for a number of different reasons. I certainly wouldn't add a second wireless sub to this mix if there was no specification for it before hand.
  7. My point there is that the sub is probably fine in your configuration, but otherwise...the assessment with the 110 is correct. That being said, you will only gain approximately 3 dB with adding the second sub - but with better coverage is all. You would want to look at maybe one of the SPL lines? I think that's the current.
  8. So the short response is that you just have the upgrade itch. While it's true that you would generally have a sub that outputs more than your mains, consider the following: How often do you think you're using 100 W of power on your Quartets?
  9. OP, you just answered your own question. See bold/underlined. It's not broken, don't fix it.
  10. I don't remember if I took photos when I did the foam treatments. I think I had photos when I installed the XO's though, because they're actually on the back of the baffles rather than above the terminal cup. The foam that I used on the back was actually trimmed foam from the wrapping of the bass port (because the need of room for the XO). If I get a chance to take them apart again, I'll snap photos though.
  11. That OP looks familiar These are indeed the XO's in my current RF-3's. They cleaned a lot up for the towers. The diaphragm cleaned them up a little bit more and made them a little less harsh. The wrapping of the wire inside and laying out the foam in the back (inside of course) helped with some relatively tighter bass response. They sound different enough that they're *very* obvious in A/B between a stock RF-3 and the modded RF-3.
  12. I have modded RF-3 II's. The XO's are S/N1 and S/N2 B&K XO's. I replaced the diaphragms as well with some Crites spec'd ones and added a little extra foam on the rear of the speaker behind the woofers (made sure all the wires were wrapped too). Still have the stock cabs and drivers though.
  13. That's stealing. Excellent deal, OP! You are correct that you shouldn't be too worried about them. Enjoy what you're getting right now and start saving. By the time you start feeling the itch, you should have enough saved up for some great speakers. Your front three are what you'll hear the most, so enjoy them for now! Andre is correct (above - just posted) - the RS-35's are the designated match to the RF-35's. However you should have a little wiggle room there up to the RS-62's if your budget eventually allows. But I digress, enjoy for now - itch later.
  14. Age does not mean much when talking audio - especially speakers. Some of the best speakers you'll see and hear are older (look at most KHorns, Heresy, Chorus, Belles, etc). The newest speaker in any of my configurations is dated 2007, the next newest is 2003. Alone the RF-35's *or* the RC-62 II are easily $350 - so that's a hell of a deal. The 35's are the speakers that replaced the RF-3's and RF-3 II's. They were superseded by the RF-82. All will perform well over the R-28F as originally posted.
  15. Count me as another vote to Yamaha's CX-A preamps. I'm floored at the quality of build in my 5100 and it does all that I want and more. I was able to get it on A4L for $1,500. I don't use the YPAO, but most people that I know of that use it rave about it. At the risk of a few fans balking at me, I will share that I can't stay far enough away from Emotiva products. Every single Emotiva pre or unit that I've owned that's had some kind of digital interface has had problems or failed in an unreasonably short amount of time. I don't know about their newer stuff, but at least as recently as their MC-700, their pre's and CD transports were abysmal (oops, it's a day out of warranty...guess you'll have to pay us $200 to look at it, plus shipping). Oof.
  16. That's not really how that works. You don't lose power with age. That being said, your AVR isn't capable of 1000 W total, at max it will only produce 165-180W for one channel. Assuming it's a 5-channel unit, that means it's under 30 WPC. That is per your units operating manual. The typical 2-channel output is likely around 50. That is also not true. The 540 is rated for 310W maximum output, so around 60 WPC. Entry level units will likely spec lower than the PSU's will allow as well. What is your budget?
  17. Bumping this again. The RSP came back again, this time with an identifiable problem. It is still under warranty, so Rotel is replacing the XLR board on the unit. I will be relisting this on AudioGon after it's repaired, but I'm gonna go ahead and also give people here first dibs if they do want a newly refreshed RSP with the HDMI 2.0a board. Price here will still be $1,200 + PayPal and Shipping. AudioGon will be $1,400 again.
  18. Few AVR's will put out 95-110 RMS all channels driven. Most of those ratings are for 2 channels or 1 channel driven. The cleanliness of the power is much more important than the wattage numbers. There are plenty of people here that have single-watt configurations that would blow you away.
  19. It wasn't bait, it was just observation and fact. A lot of people weren't alive or able to comprehend what was happening. I certainly don't recall everything from being 5 years old. It's what happens. As for the "people forgot line", have you looked at a social media timeline today? None of that was bait - it was simple fact. It's sad, but it's world we live in today. They ran a sad news story locally about how there are already plenty of students that shrug it off. Maybe it's just my history background, maybe it's something else, no idea...but that irks me a bit. The magnitude of "so-what's" I've seen this year is really sad.
  20. It's simple: People (lied) forgot - or people weren't alive/comprehending for it. This is the harrowing face of reality.
  21. Looks like I forgot a 0. Should work in a sec.
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