marems

Oppose double post

Sorry guys I'm not an electrician and not good with the terms, it's just showing that there is no ground present in the power wire when it should show that there one present

Lars, thank you for your input, he did ohm just the cable alone and not while connected to the amp, it looked like it had some heavy bending wear on the cable jacket close to both ends, I'll post a pics of it soon, the cable had no wire strands exposed,( I never would have installed it) and the cable was installed correctly as I have done this type many times before. I just think that there was some kind of voltage issues and the ground was not present to help due to the faulty cable. I swaped out the power cable and tried the original cable that came with the amp and it still blew fuses. Inspected the power cable connection point on the amp as well and it looked normal, (nothing that could cause an arc.)

The blind test would be interesting.

I agree with u bubo about the ground not floating on the newer 3 prong amps or anything 3 prong. And as far as the expensive power cable for better dynamics etc. ha! snake oil! I learned the hard way I guess :-/ .....

All of the old stuff floats, my impression is that the new stuff does not.

I heard that! Ugg

My friend who is a electrician measured both hot and neutral leads on the power wire and was ok, tested the ground leads and no reading at all (no resistance) possibly broken ground wire in the power wire. I spoke with a couple of Mac techs today and they said that if there is no ground at all when a short or a power surge came thru it would hurt the amp, which is why they tell u not to use a cheater plug on 3 prong power cables, the amp is designed and engineerd to have a 3 prong power cable at all times. I just happen to have that kinda luck yesterday and something fried. I replaced the fuses on the amp 3x and popped them each time. The Mac tech said "Do not try and energize the amp anymore because there is something seriously wrong with the amp for it to be blowing the fuses like that ". I can tell you its so frustrating

Yeah it sucks, gota pack it up 150 lbs boxed! Ugg it came on a semi trailer when I ordered it from audio classics lol. I got to bring it there, cause luckily they are a Mac dealer. They said they will pay for repairs if they can prove the power cable did my amp in, they also said they will give me a loaner amp to get me by till mine is fixed, I personally think it fried something with that ground wite being open in the cable. Hell I didn't notice a diffence with it at all just a bunch of snake oil!

Well I decided I would try out a high end power cable in my system since the local dealer gave me on to try out. Installed it on my amp and watched a movie with my son. Listened to some music the following day with no problems. When to turn it on last night and nothing, I had some spare slow blo fuses so I put a new one in and popped that one, and then another after that.... I was pretty worried and wondered what happened, my power conditioner didn't show a fault so it was not a power input issue. I ohmed out the power cable and found the ground leads on it were open with no resistance. So much for the upgrade

Me too....especially after the mods....they really transformed the performance of the speaker.1. Titanium tweeter diaphrams 2. Titanium midrange diaphrams 3. Extended ports to 7.5" 4. Next is to upgrade the crossovers, although right now I don't 'hear' the need to but gonna do it anyway. I'm very curious on the mods for the 30's, could you explain? I already did the titanium upgrades and crossover is next, I like the idea of the longer ports cause they don't dig that deep stock, which had always bothered me.

Here are the stock cap and resistor values for my Ver.1 CF-4 crossover components: 10w 7ohm 10w 3ohm 10w 1ohm 10w 8ohm 10w 2ohm. Caps: 1.5uf, 3.5uf, 5.0uf, 15uf :::::::: 40mfd, 57mdf

I'm replacing the electrolytic caps in my CF-4's woofer section with Bennic Electrolytics and Raw Mundorf electrolytics. My question is are they polarity sensitive? Do I need to install the leads in a certain way?? I'm new at installing the electrolytics. I know that film caps don't matter for polarity. I just want to be sure. Thanks!

Ok I'm going to replace the stock elec caps with new elec bipolar's. I'm looking at the mundorf ecap bipolar raw and plain, what is the difference between the two??? And which would be the best to use?

thanks for your input!

Hi all I'm in the process of updating caps and resistors in my cf-4's and I have ran into a delema.. Should I replace the bipolar caps in the low end sec of the crossovers with polys? Or new bipolar's???? Any benefits from polys over the bipolar caps in the low end????

Thank you so much for the suggestion! I kinda figured that would be the best way to go, but I wanted to be sure. I'm gona upgrade the caps in the RB-75's first and then the CF-4's!

I have a question regarding capacitor tolerence. I'm going to be updating the caps in my RB-75's and I'm going to go with the claritycap ESA 630vdc's,& I found all that match to the factory values except for the 2.5uf. Claritycap has it only in a 2.2uf and a 2.6uf value with a rated +- 3% tolerence. Which of the two cap values would be recommended?? The schematic calls for a +- 5% tolerence. I'm kinda new with the cap upgrade DIY project, I have updated my forte's with all jentzen superior z caps and mills restors, I pleased with that upgrade I completed. So I have some experience in replacing the caps in the klipsch xovers. Advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you.

Just curious if replacing the roll off cap for the woofer in my forte will make any audible difference, i have replaced the mid and tweet caps with jentzen superior-z's and I love what that's has done for the sound..

Hey thanks to the both of you!

I just recieved the k-53ti diaphragms for my forte mid upgrade and they do not have positive or a negitive marking on them! Which is the positive???

Ok so I have started the great journey on the xover cap and resistor upgrade mod for the forte and have some questions. I'm only going to replace the caps and resistors Im leaving the inductors alone for I have read to do just that....I have started to do some research on different brands of caps. I'm not wanting to spend a ton of money, but I would love to get the best bang for the buck... I found some janzten Z superior caps from parts express. I have read some reviews on them and they got pretty good reviews, does anyone have any experience with these in klipsch speakers?? Also I can't find any mills 40 ohm resistors, where can I get some?? Also should the woofer roll off cap be replaced as well???

Does anyone have any info on the xover schematic?? I'm wanting to update the caps and resistors.

What is the difference that you noticed between the two?? 8 ohm vs the 4 ohm forte?