[Pilgrimage Website and Sign-Up Form]

Pls add NOLA to the list.
Thx

[NOT TO BE MODIFIED: "WHO DAT THINK THEY GONNA BEAT DEM SAINTS".....]

"WHO DAT THINK THEY GONNA BEAT DEM SAINTS".....

From NOLA with love.

To all my friends in Indy, .....you have no idea what last night means to us in New Orleans.......

....when the Saints go marching in......

NOLA

[Now let's talk about album sleeves]

Hello all:

I have about 150 records now, post Katrina )

Do you think the MoFi sleeves are the way to go - esp for the humid climate here - and are the prices, once you include shipping, etc, are good from Sleeve City vs other places?

Thanx

[H700 Heresy]

Xavier is cool; great Pharmacy School. Nice to know that our country thought so much of us, that Qatar is spending $100M to rebuild the Pharm School.

But I digress. Give me a buzz, maybe meet over a beer/wine/beignets/etc. You can send me an email directly through the system without having to post your private info on the forum too.

[H700 Heresy]

Welcome Editor B

There were intended to be a center channel speaker for K Horns. Klipsch user in NOLA as well here. I think your stuff is from 1971. Upload some pics - esp. of the innerds. There are about 8 screws holding the rear wooden board in place. Unlikely to be sealed any further. Also, they likely need recaps badly. I work at Tulane. Give me a holler.......

NOLA

[HERESY I AND IIs]

As an owner of 5 Heresy spkrs with 4 more on the way: your 83 HIs are likely using H II components. Open them up. Check the xovers too. Unlikely to be type E. I have found the quality of the H Is to be far greater than the H IIs. The cabinetry is braced and constructed far better on the H Is. The drivers on the true mid 70s H Is are just like the KHorns and LaScalas (K77 and K55). The H IIs use different drivers - that look cheap by comparison. After recapping, my Is and IIs came closer together in overall sound quality and tone - but are not exact, though both sound nice

My goal is/was to get 5 good quality HIs and do a 5.2 system in the bedroom with them-with all matched innerds. Given all of the component changes over the years, it is painfully difficult to get matching cabinents and components. I have been at this since late spring. My luck might have been better with HIIs given what has been for sale this year. Lately I have bought 3 mystery Heresy's at good prices and 1 pair of HIs with very similar, though not exactly matching innerds should be here by Turkey Day. 1 speaker that arrived this weekend was from 1982 and despite what I expected, was filled with H II innerds in an HI cabinet. Oh well.

I have never heard HIIIs up against 2s or 1s. Most say they are great though. But I think the upgrade kit is quite expensive for what might be a modest gain or change in tonality in an inexpensive used speaker.

Just my 2 cents.....

[Just Tested Out Altec 511s and 902-8s, Quite "Tinny" Sounding]

Currently, I am modding the Khorns, but could just as easily mod the LsScalas, as they are all in the main room.

I do not have any active xovers now. I have stock Klipsch AAs, some have been recapped with Crites Sonicaps, some have not. I also built the ALK Unis early summer. I have type E xovers in the Heresy Is and the round cup H II xovers as well. Academies x 2,.....whew...... I could also buy some new inductors, caps, etc.

Of course, the various xovers are mated to the orig spkrs (except the ALKs), but I could use them or their component parts to experiment with - if I had someone else's crossover design. I have seen some plans and "charts and tables" for xover design on the net. However, given what I know about their design and the Klipsch driver part specs, Klipsch and Al K crossovers are not "simple" 1st, 2nd, nor 3rd order designs.

So, as it stands, I cannot cross at anything other than what AA or Unis allow for. If these were modded, if I knew how, then I could xover higher.

Also, can the K33s in the Khorn (or LS) bass bin hit 600-700 HZ?

How does one contour the response? Do you need an equalizer, like the $300 Behringer or the one built into the dbx PA/PA+? I do not know if the Electro Voice DX 38 has an eq.

Thanks for your thoughts on the ALK wooden squaker. Maybe the 902s I bought need new diaphragms as suggested by someone else, as the 902/511 combo sounds tinny from both sets (L and R). I will try to rig up a way to test the K55s with the 511s and 902s with Klipsch and ALK squakers as another check too.

[Just Tested Out Altec 511s and 902-8s, Quite "Tinny" Sounding]

Thanks for the replies )

I still have the ALK wooden horns. I was warned by GPA NOT to run the 902s below 500 HZ at any sign loudness for any sign time.

John, where do you find this stuff?

---------Or not. Attached is the AES paper introducing the La Scala. The
2-way top handled more power and was cheaper, but the 1-way was
smoother.

found this in an AK posting from 1 yr ago:

I've run Trachorns with stock K55Vs and various Altec. They sound great
with K55s and even better with upgraded drivers. So good that last
year, I paired them up with a new set of Altec 902s, and they were good
enough to eliminate tweeters up front (Trachorns up front handle all
the way up).



Just some thoughts.
09-17-2008, 11:05 PM


Carl G

tjnif vbmenu_register("postmenu_2128227", true); AK Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Roscoe NY Posts: 157 So let me get this right...., If I use the trachorns I "do not" need a tweeter?? I installed the Crites tweeter and use Als Universal network,K55 mid. Do you have to by the whole ES network or can I use the universal and "add on" to it?? Where did you get the altec & Beyma 's?? Thanks for alll the help! Originally Posted by tjnif ............... No, not necessarily. My point was that Trachorns can work nicely going all the way up with the right drivers, but it is not exactly a simple swap with Khorns - to just eliminate the tweeters by substituting Altec drivers. Is not a simple "fix" for most people with Khorns. The problem begins because the smaller format Altec drivers should not be used below 500 hz - and even though the Khorn bass bin can do 500 hz (in my opinion - some disagree), most networks are set up (including the Universals) to cross you over with a gentle slope at 400 hz. To solve the Khorn bass bin problem, I've augmented my mid bass with a Forte cabinet and Forte drivers to cover from 300hz to 700 hz. My recommendation would be to try Trachorns with the stock K55vs and the Crites drivers first. Bet you will be happy there. Don't worry about what I have done because I've been known to take things to the extreme. Works for me though, and I'll never upgrade my mains................ ---- If someone ends up reccomending the ALK ES-500T, I still have my pair for sale. ;-) that could be pricey....even used.......so I might keep thinking about actives......

[Just Tested Out Altec 511s and 902-8s, Quite "Tinny" Sounding]

Yup, I understand.

Thought my journey through the black hole of this audio hobby should include an attempt to try a 2 way with the Khorns or maybe even the LaScala's. The Altec 511/902 combo seemed a good way to try this - and in hard times, maybe the best time to buy the parts. I may also drop a posting about this to the altec heritage forum too.

As per your posting, maybe PWK never went 2 way because the drivers and horns of the day would not allow for it. Perhaps that is still true.

Cheers )

[Just Tested Out Altec 511s and 902-8s, Quite "Tinny" Sounding]

Just Tested Out Altec 511s and 902-8s, Quite "Tinny" Sounding

Hi

After loosing part of a wall here, finally got to test out, for 10 minutes the altecs.

A put a piece of folded shelf liner between the driver and horn to pad the connection point a bit - hope that is ok. About 1/8"thick.Slight intrusions on the open connection edges, but less than 1/4"in spots.

Made no changes on the ALK Uni Xover. The drivers were 7.3 and 7.7 ohms each.

They sounded quite "tinny". Almost certain the xover points from the alk are incorrect for this driver horn pair though. Probably will have to change the tap points off the autotransformer too.

Any reccs re better xover design for this duo? Trying to use the 511s as both mid range squaker and tweeter. Thus, xover would be 2 way.

Thanx all

[Subwoofer equalization with the Velodyne SMS-1 (long)]

Sorry if resurrecting an old thread isn't cool. But I am confused.

Roger, KlipschIndyFan, I finally set up the SMS in the bedroom with the RSW-15. Needless to say your HT is the boss - but I lost a lot of bass after setting it up (all 10 minutes worth). I forget the curves now, but bass came in at about 20-22 Hz.

Well, I am not that impressed. (

OK, I am probably a bass freak --- more must be better ) Hey, its what I like on my DVDs. I just used the Outlaw Audio set up instructions - the whole page (didn't even read the Velodyne booklet) - and well, Queen went limp.

How do I get my hard rockers kicking again? Should I just ditch the SMS until the main room can be opened up over the next month or so?

NOLA

[RSW-15 and F113]

Hi

I also have an RSW 15. I also just got an MFW 15 from AV123 - but lots of EMI FM interference so far. In my moderate sized bedroom about 15 x 15 x 12, each is awesome. Check on avs forums for Craigsub and his huge subwoofer thread, 100s of pgs. On pg 1 it has the summaries, but no RSW as memory serves me. You should probably read pg 1. The thread is probably about 2 years old now and closed about a yr or so ago. The 113 was a top dog - and at a top price.

NOLA

[LETS TALK ABOUT TUBE AMPS VS SS]

JL Sargent:

Right now I'm running active crossovers to tube and SS amps. I'm using
SET amps to the upper mid and tweeter range horns and SS to short bass
horns. I'm really into this type system right now. I have power on the
low stuff and I have the SET voicing I'm after on anything above 4 or
500hz.

tell me / us more about your active crossovers and system. thinking aboout doing this too.

NOLA

[K55V - where can I go from here?]

Erland

I don't remember if it was you or someone else posting about some very expensive horn drivers recently. Suffice it to say that the obscure object of your desire might be horn loaded, but also might clearly be in the DIY realm.

Although you have self made KH bins, for bass bins, check out Steve Deckers corner horns via ?decware.com. He also makes some tube amps that have a following. These can also be self made or made to order. Quite a wide range of driver or drivers too. Seems a higher end wood worker set of skills and tools would be required - but you might have these. BTW, I know of no one that has directly compared these 2 bass bins.

For horns, I think the Avant gards (?spelling) are the coolest looking. I heard the 2" throat mid ranges last week. Nice indeed. ALK does not recc the 2" horn at non loud levels. I was not present when my friend compared the 2" throat wooden horn to the K400 stock mid horn. I was not blown away by the changes made by the ALK 1" throat horn vs the K400. However, I did not do the comparison with the same drivers.

(I will be playing with Altec 511 multicellular mid/tweeter next week, I hope. Altec 902 drivers. There are convertor adapters for Klipsch series horn use too. I think you are looking for something beyond this.)

Tweeters: pls understand this my opinion only. Have you done any test tones on your gear? Well, above 400 Hz or so, they start getting very directional, above a 1000 Hz or so, the sound is very, very directional. So be aware that even a few inches change in position can make a huge difference in the sound pressure level (SPL), etc. Others willhave to chime in how much difference any different tweeters really make beyond the "sweet spot" area of your room.

Lastly, and perhaps most ghastly, will you really be able to appreciate the differences and do you own source material that can bring a system to life - as if the band is truly in your room? For most of us the answer to the former is maybe yes, and to the latter, probably no. We had a 3-5 piece band playing at our local audio club GTG last month. Even with really nice gear, there was absolutely no doubt as to which room had the band and which rooms had the spkrs.

Hope this helps a bit.......NOLA.....an all that Jazz.....

[At Klipschorn users: How big is your listening room?]

Bonjour de votre cousins a la Louisianne

1st - buy the Khorns, Jubilees, MWMs, etc.

2nd - never look back. It's that simple. Remember to use nice sources and a good tube or SS amp.

Find some friends that have some horn loaded gear and tube amps. The local audio club in New Orleans has been a godsend for me. Going to Indy or Hope takes a bit further in the process here. But I think a phone call or a visit to any speaker or amp builder will really set you firmly on the middle road of a nice highway for your new adventure.

Many on the forum here and on others elsewhere realize that the gear is basically good to great. We like to do some mods, etc. Sort of like the guys in high school that worked on their cars on a Saturday night.

To my fellow Klipscher in La Belle Province, I will tell you that I have been attending a congress in Paris yearly since Hurricane Katrina. I am always warmly treated as a cousin at a family reunion. To our future Klipsch owner, you will be treated just as warmly.

NOLA......and all that Jazz......

[New Subwoofer Causes A Lot of FM Interference - Why?]

Thanx for the replies so far.

I also posted this at avs forums after a google search showed other sub owners also had similar issues likely related to the amp:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16964345

AVS Forum > Audio Area > Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread p.253 exerpts- "Second issue: When I switched to the FM tuner I found that the sub is creating a MASSIVE amount of RF or electrical noise that completely interferes with FM reception. The only station that will come in at all is a powerful station whose transmitter is only about 5 miles away. All other frequencies have too much noise to tune, with a rising/falling sweep-type tone. I also found that the noise changes some when the level knob is adjusted, sometimes being just "noise" to changing to the rising and falling sweep-type tone, to noise again, depending on where the level is at. The noise also still occurs if the RCA plug is disconnected. Strange. I can't imagine this is normal." "I've never heard of an amp generating massive amounts of interference in the FM range. I'm sure Alex will let us know why this is fantastically unlikely from an electrical standpoint." "I haven't either. All I can say is that, turn the sub on, the FM reception goes bad, turn the sub off, everything goes back to normal." From me on Friday: "Well, you are not alone in FM interference problems with your sub amp Well, you are not alone in FM interference problems with your sub amp I posted this yesterday at: http://www.tweakcityaudio.com/forum/...ead.php?t=1794 and in the klipsch forums ............................ Most all replies that I got were related to ground loop hum. That was a problem that was easy to fix: cheater plug. That was NOT my issue. My issue, perhaps like yours was that although some FM stations were ok, some had lots of static. At some FM frequencies, I got lots of sort of chortling noises that were kind of loud. I called av123 today and talked to the owner, Mark L. Schifter. He told me to use ferrite EMI / RFI traps. I had some (ok about 10) from Parts express. I used them on the ac plugs both near the outlet and near the component for both sub and receiver and for the sub cable (with RCA connectors), and even on the FM antenna I use. Also tried all of this with and without cheater plugs and even using different wall outlet. Well, all of this, which may have worked fine for others, only worked for a few seconds for me. After turning the MFW amp back on, a few seconds later, the noises started again. Also, even with the RCA plug disconnected, I still got some buzzing noise. All of these issues only occurred at certain frequencies and were not uniform in the FM band. I unplugged the MFW and just use the RSW sub from Klipsch now. I will call av123 back on Monday. I am not happy. I am also concerned that the amp design did not shield the RF issues sufficiently. Perhaps that is your problem as well. If we share a common problem between manufacturers, perhaps the Consumer Product Safety Commission can tell us what acceptable levels of RF leak are, and if there is a way for to test for it. Any comments appreciated."

CECAA850 - nice link on hum, but with the cheater plug in use, not an issue now. I also bought some parts express isolation transformers about a year ago, pinky finger size. But due to construction in the main room, I cannot get to them quite yet.

Mr. McD: MS at AV123 also suggested the ferrite RF traps. I tried them (I have about 10 in the bedroom). Well, at best, only stopped the EMI for just a few seconds, then it came back. No apparent regard to use of the cheater plug. Pls see above. I have not moved the av123 MFW sub this weekend - had to spend the whole weekend on kitchen issues.

Thinking about it, I did not try them on the cable line itself. Hopefully I will also be able to get to the isol xfrmrs this week too.

Cheater plug: pls don't shoot me: as a non electrical engineer, my guess is that on well made new gear, the ground plug probably is only there to keep the us and european regulators happy. Using it to rid hum is for me a great $1.00 solution.

.Now, in his book, "Get Better Sound", Jim Smith also talks about possible polarity issues and cheater plugs. But such discussions are beyond my knowledge - and maybe my hearing - at this point.

.Dr. Who: I think we might like to know who, if anybody, actually regulates this stuff. As in, "is anybody there....does anybody care..." MLS at av123 did tell me that they had make a product that would pass US and EU (ce label) standards. He indicated, this alone required the use of the 3 prong cord. Pls note that the 1999ish RSW-15 does not use the ground prong.

.

But I am not going to wrap a sub, nor an amp in foil at this point. (Well, if I was Cristo, 30 yrs ago....) But putting mu metal around the proper parts of the amp might be an idea. However, exactly where to put it, etc, is beyond my knowledge. Mu metal is not cheap either. It is used in some MRI applications.

Like with the RSW sub, if you take out both pieces of the MFW amp and control plates, you have unwanted holes. In short it would be a mess. Hopefully the folks at av123 will have a new idea on Monday. I also have sub amps from the main room and an Adcom beast too. But why should I have to use another amp?

.

But let the buyer beware of FM interference as a potential ?new issue for sub amps that might be, shall we say, sub-par.

[ACVTIVE (POWERED) CROSSOVERS VS MODDED PASSIVES.]

Mark1101:

I read your reply with great interest. I have KHs and LSs. I have the ALK wooden trachorns (not the 2" throat horns also on the forums) and hope to finally test out the Altec 511 multicell horn and Altec 902-8 ohm driver combo this weekend. I have stock and recapped AA networks and the ALK uni networks.

I am very seriously thinking about trying active electonic digital crossovers and EQs - but that project may be delayed a bit.

I have seen postings here, and at the Altec, audiokarma, audiocircle, etc forums about active crossovers. Your posting is one of the very few that I have yet found that describes any compairson between the less expensive (dbx driverack PA, PA+ (includes room EQ), Ashly 2001, and Behringer 2496 models - $300-450 price range and add $300 more for the room EQ via a Behr DEQ) and more expensive models such as the EV DX38, at around $1280. Before reading your post, I was seriously thinking about the dbx gear.

If you have a 3 way system and subs and a 3 way center - active xovers can get very pricey very fast. Plus, you need a lot of high quality amps.

I had the true pleasure of hearing Colter's ?Jubilee system with the big bass and mid bins and great big (?2-3 feet per side) ?mid/tweeter. It had an active network, but I cannot recall any details of which product he used. Lovely. Canyonman had me over his place. His KHs with the new wooden horn and 2" throat with RTR 15 cm/s source was well, unbelievable. He had ALK Unis.

If we could reduce the numbers of positions for active digital crossover (to reduce cost), perhaps using high end passives (however one would define that):

??? between sub and woofer (although my preamp processor can do that automatically for LFE)

--between woofer and mid

--between mid and tweeter

not sure which area is best to leave passive, maybe we could get the best of both worlds and a "reasonable" cost.

Would also potentially save some $$$ on the amps needed.

Further cost reduction might also be achieved if a 2 way set up, say with the 511s in place of the K400 and K700, sounds nice.

FWIW, others have told me not to bother bi- or tri- amping the Khorns as the time involved and cost would not be worth the minimal incremental gain. But I doubt they tried high end gear such as the EV for the active xover.

Any further thoughts appreciated.

[New Subwoofer Causes A Lot of FM Interference - Why?]

I just put the 2nd sub into the bedroom. 1st stop, right next to the existing RSW-15. Started to test it out. First tests were ok as far as bass response goes-although the curves were quite different from the RSW.

Had to use a cheater plug to get rid of hum. Currently, the sub cable from the receiver goes to a Y split, with 1 Y plug to the MFW and 1 cable after the Y split to the RSW. Signal strength to the RSW must still be pretty strong, despite the split as the RS SPL meter still reads about the same.

However, the new AV123 MFW-15 sub (I think with the new redesigned amp) causes enormous FM interference when it is turned on. The interference can sound like added static on stations with decent signals. Other stations sound normal. But with some stations it totally wipes out the FM signal and you get sort of loud chortling sounds - unlike anything I have ever heard before. My receiver is an Onkyo 805, and I use one of those cheap rabbit ear and loop tv antennas for the FM antenna. The RSW is about 5 ft from the antenna. The MFW is about 2 1/2 feet away from the antenna.

I had a few issues pulling in weak signals before, but never any interference like this.

Anybody have any ideas on what is going on or how to fix it? I plan to call AV123 too.

[Ideas for passive subs; have amp, need sub]

Consider Pro Audio passive subs. Guitar Center or your local musician - type gear store should have some. In the used market, be patient and try Craigslist etc. There is an internet marketplace for new and used gear, but I can't recall the name, but much of the gear was above your price point, and shipping could be an issue too.

[Altec 511B & Driver/ Klipschorn question??]

Tom:

Thankyou.

I ain't married....hehehe.....LOL.

Just finished fixing a sub amp and starting even more projects here, oy vey...... So I am a bit beat now.

I have 511s, they just need a good cleaning. I have 902-8 ohm drivers as well. Got some new nuts and washers for them. Will also make a thin plastic "gasket" at the meeting point of 511 and 902 from some drawer liner material. They measure 6.8 and 7.3 ohms.

Intent is 2 way. But if I can't do that, will try to figure out best 3 way components. Too many posts from SFogg to sort through now, but will try this weekend.

Canyonman bought the 2 inch wooden horns and drivers. Can't wait to hear them.

BTW the 511s, etc are intended as K horn mods. I do own LaScalas as well, but want to futz with the KHs first.

I think Don Richards answered another of my posts saying that he used an A network. I will check rolloff of the bass bin and Klipsch mid horn and tweeter and ALK wooden horn and the 511 all separately via ALK Uni and AA networks. With the new software (Room EQ Wizard) this should go fast (I hope).

I can further modify my xovers, if I can figure out what and how much to change.

There are multiple formulas and filters for xovers-and have no idea what to use. Any further specific info appreciated. (BTQ, I measured the K33s at about 4 ohms).

[Altec 511B & Driver/ Klipschorn question??]

Thx Blvdre:

I found the P-audio adapters at usspeaker.com and loudspeakerplus .com. Is that who you buy from?

I called Great Plains Audio in OKC. They are the main parts forlks for Altec. They seriously warned me against driving the 511 horn/902 driver - 8 ohm (expect 6-7 ohms on the multimeter) combo below 500 Hz. In fact they suggested a higher crossover frequency if at all possible, perhaps 800 Hz. I was warned that the Altec type diaphragms (at $100 each) will not hold for long at 400 Hz, and only to drive them quietly and only for short periods during testing out the Altec combo. The Altec combo should be good up to 20 kHz, thus potentially obviating the need for a tweeter. They know about Klipsch folks doing mods, but could not comment further.

The K33 LaScala or Khorn bass bin is good to 350, maybe 400 Hz from what I have read here. Using a xover at 500 Hz might be a bit of a stretch.

However a single 500 Hz xover for K33 and 902 might the only viable compromise. I would anticipate using the cheapest and easiest to make passive xover from the many parts I now have, which include the Klipsch AAs and ALK Unis. I have never seen a posting about a 2 way passive xover on this or any other forum, for a 500 Hz xover, woofer at 4 ohms and midrange driver at say 6 or 7 ohms. Perhaps later this year I might get an active xover.

A separate subwoofer xover / amp would be used, at about 60 Hz, I think.

Thx NOLA

[Altec 511B & Driver/ Klipschorn question??]

" I don't know about the Altec drivers, but the K55 mounts right to the 511B's with an adaptor. I have run this combination for many years with my ALK Universals and they sound great! Much better than the K400 horn! Mike "

I have heard folks talk about an adapter. Is it one of these from Partsexpress?

Speakers >> Compression Horn Adapters ADM-25 or ADF-25, both under $10- each?

COMPRESSION HORN ADAPTERS
Grid View | List View	Sort Results By Highest Rated Most Reviews Price Low to High Price High to Low Category	Results Per Page 9 27 48 99
Items 1 through 3 of 3.	All Records Shown
Selenium ADM25-25 Horn Adapter (5 reviews) List: $10.99 Now: $6.35 In Stock Ships Free on Most Orders Over $98 click for details Eminence APT-3 APT To Screw-Thread Horn Adapter (3 reviews) List: $4.99 Now: $4.47 Due 8/12/2009 Ships Free on Most Orders Over $98 click for details Selenium ADF25-25 Horn Adapter (9 reviews) List: $5.99 Now: $3.76 In Stock Ships Free on Most Orders Over $98 click for details

I also have 511s and also have 902-8 ohm drivers. Could you use the 902s on the K400 horn of the Khorn or LaScala? Which adapter to use?

Can you use the K55 Klipsch driver on the 511 horn? Again, which adapter to use?

No one has mentioned how to raise the woofer/mid cutoff from 400 to 500 Hz on either the Klipsch A or AAs nor the ALK Universal? How do we do this?

But thanx for letting us know to adjust the auto transformer.

How does one get rid of the tweeter/mid cutoff at 4500 Hz so that the 511 horn can run from 500-20000 Hz?

THX from the Big Easy -- NOLA

[cleanning cane grills]

Bump to the Budman on that impressive speaker and equipt list

NOLA

[SPL vs Frequency Chart of Bedroom Icon WF-34s In Stereo Mode With RSW-15 Sub]

Tried it last night with the RS SPL plugged into the lappy. I don't quite understand these curves. I used the RS SPL correction table. This portion went to just shy of 200 Hz. This chart and the ones above are different. This was automatic and fast!

WF-34s Lt/Rt and av123 gear C RL RR and RSW-15 sub. Onkyo 805, I think non Audyssey corrected. Sub xover at 80 controlled via the onkyo. My my my, have I got bass - and some room nodes.

Thanx so much for the link DrWho, whomever you may be

[Any Suggestions for a 2 Way Crossover Network Design: Khorn or LaScala with Altec 511 or Mantaray Horn?]

Thanks again

I appreciate the offer for borrowing an extreme slope xover. )

I am not ready for the active purchase yet. 1 Q: how do I fugure out the time delay stuff?

I think my needs now are for a simple 2 way xover. I think my values are:

500 Hz, 4 ohms for K33 woofer, 6-7 ohms for the altec, great plains audio 902 for the 511 mid horn/tweeter combo

http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/XOver/ but found similar stuff elsewhere too (http://www.ajdesigner.com/crossover/crossoverfirst.php)

1st Order Solen Split

500 Hertz

7 Ohm Tweeter / 4 Ohm Woofer

Parts List Capacitors C1 = 32.14 uF Inductors L1 = 1.8 mH

c1 becomes 37.5 uF for 6 ohms

1st Order Butterworth

500 Hertz

6 Ohm Tweeter / 4 Ohm Woofer

Parts List Capacitors C1 = 53 uF Inductors L1 = 1.27 mH

at 7 ohms c1 becomes 45.43 uF

Butterworth, Solen split, yikes.... Other sources, of the few I found also lead to c1, L1 numbers all over the place. So, what should I do?????