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About nola

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  1. 1. As for the phono pre amp, the new version needs a few independent reviews. Likely will say it's better, but at a price. For me, 1 issue is that if I go MC, I might need a 2nd phono preamp to use when in NOLA. The one have there is only good for MM carts. 2. What did AT say the charge would be for a retip of the 33 or OC9? If AT does the retip as an OC9, which version, the II or the III? The II has the thinner stylus from what I have read. Therefore, despite the III being newer, the II might be more desirable. Who did you talk to, time to do the retip, did you consider Soundsmith retip, etc? 3. Who are you buying the 33 from? I think I saw it on Amazon, although some suppliers are not in the US. 4. From the pics, the 33 has a very short cantilever. Maybe the shortest I have seen.Do you think this will be an issue during set up and adjustments on the headshell? What headshell and headshell wires are you going to use and why? What is the expected break in time? 50 hours of use? 5. The Avatar is from when I was at the Hockey Hall of Fame in Toronto perhaps 10-15+ years ago. I was at Michigan for 2 years, so a Red Wings fan. They were great in the early 90s and won a Cup or 2. In New Orleans we are very civilized. We believe ice belongs in a cup with some mixers, rum or vodka, etc....LOL. JohnJ, I am sure that many folks would like further updates on the 33 including the install process and how it sounds, me included. Have you ordered it already? THX again NOLA
  2. 1. JohnJ: Is the AT33PTG series likely similar to the OC9 series that I was looking at? If different, how? Where are you getting it from, etc? These are all in the $400-500 plus price range. Maybe we should chat over the phone. Let me know via PM. As for the ProJect Tube Box DS, the price just went down another $100 or so as they have a new, more expensive and different looking version just out. I have never A-B compared it anything else. To be honest, I had the chance to buy one at a good discount when I bought the ProJect TT last year. But based on my ears, the phono preamp has worked just fine with my TTs up in the DC area, and with no need to change any settings. MM carts only. 2. wvu80 / Dave, oh well, how our memories fade until reality steps in. I thank you for the kind offer, but don't worry about the oopsie. 3. Thank you Diz Rotus. 4. Thank you dirtmudd
  3. Thx for the effective mass of the ?tonearm at 12 grams I think all the cartridges I listed should be ok on a Technics 1200 series or similar S shaped tonearm. I have no idea about the capacitance of the internal wiring and any external RCA cables (2 sets, into and from the phono preamp). There appear to be a few web postings that adjustments at the level of the phono preamp can also alter and perhaps improve the overall sound of the system. These postings suggest that we should let our ears decide what sounds good to us, even if the values run different to manufacturer suggestions. Many postings urging very careful alignments etc as part of set up as well. Suffice it to say that these calculations are useful where and the input data is available. But if your possible set up is outside the acceptable range (?9-11?), does additional weighting of the headshell or rear tonearm weight dial allow for suitable adjustments? I have also taken a look at info regarding the AT OC9 ii and iii. These are Low Output MCs that should work with my Tube Box DS pre amp. Several postings that they sounded better than the AT 150MLX MM. Both of the OC9's are at or below $500 which is definitely a hard limit for me. It also limits me because I might need a second pre amp for the MC cartridge (1 for the DC area and 1 for New Orleans, assuming I carry the MC and headshell between locations). I have a low end MM usable preamp in NOLA, but it will not work with a MC. As for the Grado G2, I could not find much info on it. I assume it is at least 30 years old. Perhaps it might also need a stylus replacement, if they are still stocked. I could not find a review of it, but web postings suggest it was well thought of in the past. So yes, I might be interested. Thank you. Have a great Saturday night folks
  4. Wow, TWKH, quite an effort !! Unfortunately, though this will likely help others, I do not know what to do with it. But I will try to figure the calculations from the V E website calculator. I also found another place where the impedance of the wiring was part of the calculations needed for my Tube Box DS settings. All in all, this seemed quite complicated. In the end, one reply indicated that it was ok to mess around with the phono amp settings to find a pleasing sound. I have also called tech support for the Pro Ject phono amp and the man on the phone was quite nice.
  5. FS: McIntosh MC30 monoblocks

    Is there a functional reason for the shielding? The shield is only present on one of my 2 MC240s. When I A-B'd the 2 amps, I could not discern much if any difference, despite different brands of tubes, etc. Do I need to find / buy one of these tube shields? THX
  6. Thanks for the fast replies The tonearm database link seems to be for setup, not for compliance, unless I missed something. But thx for the link regardless. I do have an overhang tool. ?52mm? Image Model Eff length O/H O/S Pivot to spindle Cartridge weight Arm mass VTA MP HS Null Points rate/review Technics SL-1210 mk2 230 15 22 215 - - - - - 58.8 / 113.5 I have very little knowledge via the net regarding a Denon 103r and no personal experience. There seemed to be more info re the Ortofons and ATs and the pricing seemed to be within my ballpark. Are these the Zu Audio retips or originals? I think the higher quality Zu Audio ones were tough to find and quite pricey. If I wrong, please feel free to educate or correct me. THX
  7. FS: McIntosh MC30 monoblocks

    I have 2 x MC240s. Obtained from different folks and they came with different brands of tubes installed. One was from the audio engineer of a TV station in MSP. They sound quite similar. Delightful with my K horns. Originally bought 2 of them for a bi amp project that I never completed. My Q to the group is why the metal caps on the tubes closest to us in the pic? On my MC240s, only one of them has a metal capped or ?shielded tube. Thx for any info.
  8. We miss you Amy

    I think I remember Amy from at least 10 yrs ago. Best wishes.
  9. Looking TO BUY A Cartridge for a Technics SL 1210. I also have a Technics 1800 TT, which seems to be a less fancy version of the 1200 series. If possible I would like to mount the cartridge on a headshell and simply detach and reattach the headshell/cartridge when changing turntables. Hopefully all of the alignments will be ok between TTs. I also have an Ortofon Blue on a Project TT. However, there is no headshell, and it cannot be moved without complete removal of cartridge. I am happy with the sound. Currently all 3 TTs are in my small studio apt in the DC area. I would like to bring 1 TT back to NOLA by Mardi Gras. The Technics TTs came with many lower end cartridges, and the 2 TTs sound very similar. I use a Project Tube Box DS phono preamp. If someone has an appropriate cartridge (s) for sale, I am all ears. I am trying not to spend over $400 on this. I recently missed out on a 150MLX NOS for under $300. Over the summer there were some very helpful responses to my Qs about which one to buy. Thank you to the Forum members. Many, many choices out there. But I am thinking not to get a Shure nor a Denon 103 nor 110. Over 90% of my vinyl is used and I fear that an Ortofon Black or similar ?fine line stylus might lead to way too many pops and cracks on my lesser quality records. So what I "think" I am looking for might include the following: 2M Blue or maybe better, a Bronze, Super OM 30 (which I think should sound similar to the Bronze, but at a lower price), AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa), or AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540, etc....... Thanks for considering my inquiry From NOLA with love......
  10. Klipsch Heresy 1's SOUND

    Just to add my 2 cents: After Hurricane Katrina I was really worried about my speakers: 2 KHorns, 2 LSs, 2H1s, and an Academy. I thought the sound of some of the speakers was "off" or not what it should be. So began my journey 12 years ago....LOL. I recapped all of the Spam can caps with products via Bob Crites and ALK universals, 1 pair, via Al Klappenberger. I also bought Altec Lansing radial horns and wooden squawkers (which ever ones, 1 or 2 inch) use Klipsch type drivers, not the fancier (and perhaps better) drivers of the other throat size. My babies sound much better now. Another Khorn owner on the West Bank of New Orleans has the best sounding ones I have ever heard. I think room effects and very fancy steep slope ALK Xovers made the difference. If the wood in the cabinets is intact, not warped in any way, well sealed (extra gaskets and "interior wool" likely not needed), and if the rubbery gasketing and paper cones are in good shape, you should be good to go. Remember, we are all here to help each other.
  11. Newbie Type Qs RE Cornscalas and LaScalas This was prompted by a PM from another forum member, regarding SEOS CSs. In brief, if you already have a LS or CS (or other similar Altec, etc) why bother to change anything (besides horns, drivers, etc, like many of us do) if you have a sub? I am excluding the desire to tinker, which you have by definition if you are on the Forums - and that is likely why most of you are reading this post. If you are getting your first larger speakers, that is a different issue. Best to audition some first, realizing that most folks out there likely have no means to do this in the real world, especially in an A-B fashion. I have LaScalas and Heresys in a 550 sq ft place in the DC area, the rest of my stuff is still in NOLA. My single Fender 18” driver ported pro sub is roughly the size of a LaScala. Nice thick walls up North...LOL. I took a look at some SEOS CS webpages including diysoundgroup dot com where the SEOS waveguides or horns are listed and also looked at their LS or CS equiv, the Titan 615/615LX - under $600 each shipped !! Incredibly flat response from 100->15000 Hz; too good to be true? Several different curves below 100 Hz found in diff places. Let’s assume they roll off at 60 Hz. I assume bass bin size relates, perhaps not directly, to low end extension, eg 18” cubed maybe to 100 Hz, 25 x 25 x 12 (Titan) to around 60 Hz, 25” cubed (LS or CS) to around a 35-50 Hz roll off). The Titan bass bin size is maybe 40% of a LS bass bin size. So maybe if they had used a bigger (ported) bass bin maybe they could have gotten lower bass extension like the CS or LS. Perhaps that would also have required a different bass driver, xover, etc. But as stated below, add a sub, and you are done. And yes, I realize that this does not take into consideration tonality of the speakers, their “size” presence either in the room (almost “triangle” yard for K-horn) or whether you seem to be listening to a 10 piece band (K-horn) vs 2 high school kids (bad tower speakers), etc. One major Q: If you have sub that matches your speakers, whatever that means, what difference does it make to have lower bass extension from the mains? (No flame wars please, just looking for information.) Mind you I have big speakers per the above comment, but not directly for the bass extension. I resisted the “dark side” for decades as I thought the bass from the LSs and K horns was enough. I was very wrong. I am a bass a holic with many 15 and 18” subs, but no furnature/couch bass shakers (LOL). The CS adds about 10 HZ lower extension from the lower limit of the LS at the price of going from about 104 to 100 db/watt according to Crites' CS a-d webpage. Likely not a big deal to most of us with at least ?20+ watt tube amps. No doubt that is of some importance to some folks. However, if you have sub(s), does it really matter as you can program a receiver to output anything, say below 60 HZ to the sub(s)? If your audio receiver cannot do that, a dedicated sub amp can do that in almost all cases. (Though mains will run full spectrum, see below) Exception: I have thought of directly coupling the output of a turntable preamp to a stereo only amp and then directly into R and L speakers. But even here you could Y split the TT preamp output to add the sub amp as well. All you would lose is the ability to filter out the lower bass extension for the mains. It is only a guess, but I don't think the overlap, say below 40-80 HZ would be too noticeable to most of us (based upon whatever you use as the sub amp bass cutoff point). Outside of using maybe a Radio Shack Potentiometer, no idea how to control the volume inexpensively and ?cleanly. It makes the signal path as clean as possible (I think) - assuming that makes much of an audible difference to anyone. No remotes, so no couch potatoes. Just my 2 cents. Comments welcome. NOLA
  12. RE: Optimal Cartridge for a Technics SL 1210: 2M Blue or Bronze, Super OM 30, Denon DL-110, AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa), or AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540? First, thanks for the replies so far !! One Q not on the forum was why I have what I have. The ProJect TT was damaged and had a good price. I bought this first after my original Technics was no more. Sounds nice now after partial repairs and with the 2M Blue, but all things considered I likely should have bought new or undamaged as I will never get much $$ back if I sell it. As for the Technics x 3, I was not able to find any nearby at a reasonable price initially, they are all from SoCal. Yes there are likely better TTs out there for hifi use, given the price. But, easy to resell if I want to and recover at least most of what I paid. Many net postings note the tonearm as a weak point, as is true for one that I bought. However, simply stated I know the 1200 Series and its cousins (like the 1800). The 1800 was bought almost as an afterthought for low $ and after the POTs were cleaned sounds nice. However, very fine speed adjustments are easier on the 1200s/1210s. The second 1210 was simply available at a reasonable price, came with lots of used cartridges and a cover, which got beat up in shipping L. No doubt there are many needles that can sound good to great on various TTs, TT arms, TT preamps, etc. The total rig, stereo receiver, amp, speakers, room, etc all can make a huge difference. Nice to know so many cartridges can work nicely on a 1200 series TT. I also checked out vinylengine, audiokarma, etc for info via web searches for various cartridges and Technics 1200 etc as key words. To address each reply to date: Dirtmudd: THX for the links. The various Shure cartridges do have a nice advantage of various JICO SAS styli to use. DizRotus: “Mr DeMille, I am ready for my (facelift)”…LOL Thx for the info, but the process to make the peel seems a bit too involved. I also do not know where to get all the ingredients easily. I would think about buying a facial peel to try on some old vinyl if there was a means to buy it (hint). I think I found several links explaining the process. Some were a bit too detailed, even for me. My existing home brew cleaner is isopropyl alcohol 91% from CVS, distilled water or equivalent from WalMart and a drop or 2 of Dawn dishwashing liquid. I cannot recall the proportion of IPA and H20. I only made about 3-4 ounces and only cleaned a few records, rinsing with dist H20 and using microfiber cloths. I know it is not perfect. I also do not know if Dawn has appropriate surfactant. But lots of yuck was removed. Justinsweber: I found someone with a lightly used Bronze at a good price and we are starting an email dance now. I am happy with the Blue on the ProJect. For Denon, as best as I can sort out, the DL-110 might have some better reviews, although either seems like good match for the 1200 series tonearms. My concern is that if I have to replace a 1210 tonearm (maybe via kabusa.com or other), the Denon might not match (which I assume could be true for any of these needles to be honest). Although you can find any review you want of most anything on the web, there seemed to be more positive AT reviews. Thanks jimx2bo Thx Guy Landau (any relation to Martin…LOL) Hasty thx for info. I have bought caps from Bob Crites (or his son) in the past. FWIW, ALK has a $99.00 rebuild of the AA xover noted via a peculiarly obscure link on his website. (Please no flame wars). I have also bought from Al in the past. DizRotus: When I read 5-10 year old web postings I am shocked by the price increases for several cartridges. Also noted is that the styli can cost 75% or more of the entire cartridge. As a general point of info, it seems that the finer (?thinner / more oval) styli cost more (JICO SAS all appear to be over $100, many at $160-),some like the 2M Black are just too expensive for my rig. They also seems to hug the inner grooves better and be quite faithful to the groove itself. The latter can lead to many pops, hisses, etc on unloved vinyl. In brief, seems like great new vinyl will do well with such needles. But for my collection, maybe something less in a needle, which will not be as faithful to the ?deep groove will provide a more pleasant listening experience. So at this point, heavily influenced by current prices, these are my thoughts: 1. A potentially lightly / minimally used Bronze for about $300.00, This of course assumes that the bronze is better than the OM-30. I am not certain this is true. There were some postings indicating that the 2Ms could be a better match for the 1200 series tone arms vs the OM / Super OMs. 2. Super OM-30 for $290. Add the D25M mono stylus for about $50.00 - hoping that the mono stylus works ok on this body. If the 30 is similar to the bronze, I might go this route, simply on the basis of saving $50- for not needing the mono cartridge, just the mono stylus. 3. AT150Sa for $270. Overall, I seem to have found the most positive reviews for the 150MLX and the 150Sa has some good reviews. An MLX is at least $400. So maybe the Sa is close enough, given the cost. Without the mono needle consideration per the above, I would likely have this as my first choice. More liked this over the bronze or 30, however none were highly critical of the Ortofons in comparison. 4. The Shures, except for one model that is no longer made are certainly less expensive. But I the reviews I read from various web postings from real users often do not place it ahead of the above listed needles. Gladly listening back for more input J From NOLA with love.
  13. Optimal Cartridge for a Technics SL 1210: 2M Blue or Bronze, Super OM 30, Denon DL-110, AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa), or AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540? Hi Folks: Not sure where to post this. Let me know if it belongs elsewhere. Most of the info below is tell you folks about me and my gear. You can skip it if you like, as it is a bit detailed. My Technics SL1200 ?M3D is no more. Also gone is the Nigthclub S Cartridge and extra stylus. I still have the Music MMF-5 with a Goldring cartridge (?1024?), from about 10 years ago. It is my bedroom rig in New Orleans, I was never very happy with this, but completely different set up from what is noted below, except for the Onkyo. I work up in the DC area now and I have Klipsch LaScalas for my front speakers, Heresy Is for center and rear and a Fender 18” pro audio ported subwoofer (for which there is virtually no info on the web, nor from Fender). The LaScalas are “bright”, even for LaScalas. Therefore, I really do not need an over “bright” TT cartridge. I have a Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), 2M Red. It was bought knowing it had some damage and I got a 2M Blue stylus to put on the straight TT arm to replace the mangled Red stylus. It sounds very nice, but I have never had another needle on it. I do not intend to replace it. Also have a Pro-Ject Audio - Tube Box DS – Black phono pre amp. I have never compared this to anything else either. Seems to work fine. I only have a small studio apt now so I use the Tube Box for any / all TTs. Thank goodness for thick walls in an older building !! I use an Onkyo TX SR 805. Also about 10 years old. It is an all in one receiver, but with a very good amp for such a unit. I have acquired 3 additional TTs: Technics SL-1800 (repaired), 1210 MK5 and 1210 M5G (one of the 1210s also got minor repairs locally, the other has a gimpy ?gimble point on the tone arm, but it works fine – for now). (Long story on getting them.) Not sure I want to do the KAB fluid dampers on these now, nor any other modding now. Might consider mods after I get a good needle. They came with various used cartridges including an AT 92E, Stanton Groovemasters, etc. I have no way to know how “used” any of the cartridges and styli are. That said, none sound bad. I would like to have 1 good needle that I can easily interchange between these 3 TTs. Therefore, some sort of plug and play set up would be ideal, whether via a compatible cartridge mounted onto a head shell or a DJ needle, Best reccs for a DJ needle seem to be for the Ortofon Arkiv, but I doubt that it would be as good as any in the post title for regular hifi listening. I mostly listen to Jazz, Blues, 60s/70s rock, Disco, etc. I should also state that many of the dozen or so records I have up in DC now have seen better days and all were bought used. I have cleaned some of them, and yes there was gunk on them. The gunk and scratches were one reason to leave out the Super OM-40, as some web postings said that all the scratches etc are easily noted with the 40. Combined with the horn loaded speakers, I think the sound of nice new vinyl might be great, but most all of my 150+ records in NOLA are from the cheap used bin. I have listened to most of them before buying to make sure that that the records were at least in ok shape. 2M Blue- sounds fine on the Pro Ject and some say it is ok with the SL1200s. $210/165 (cartr/stylus, LP Gear or TTNeedles). It is mounted onto the Pro Ject arm and I am not going to mess with it. However, I would consider a second Blue on a headshell for the Technics TTs. Some really like the Bronze, but I do not know if either Blue or Bronze is a good match for my 3 Technics TTs when compared to the OM 30 or others listed here. $370/290. Super OM 30 gets good comments on the web. However, more postings seem to favor the ATs or Denon. $290/220, so more than Blue, but less expensive than a Bronze. TTN Jico Shibata stylus for OM 10, 20, 30, 40: $160 Super OM 40 might be better for those with high quality records, as I guess you hear every pop and such in the vinyl. Some folks on the web preferred the 30. $385/300. Denon DL-110 is said to be well mated to the 1200 series. However, there is no separate stylus for this cartridge, and setting the mount properly might be difficult. It might also be too bright for my LaScalas and Heresy’s. $200-300 AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa) is said to be a real step up from the 440s – but so is the price. I am not really sure how much difference there is from the Sa to the MLX. $270-450/335. Perhaps the bargain, if I could score a Sa for $270 and if the Sa is similar to the MLX. AT has just released the VM740ML, VM750SH and VM760SLC to replace the 150s, but I know very little about them. AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540 get good reviews. MLb is $199/179 I have a few Mono records, not sure the $90.00 OM D25M is worth it for me. One potential advantage to the OM 30 is if I could get a stylus for the D25M that would work mounted onto the OM30 cartridge. Also note that some plug and play or otherwise premounted to headshell sets are available from some of the web retailers. There were also some comments about how difficult some of these are to set up. Any advice appreciated. From NOLA with love.