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  1. Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions Hello Folks: Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions I have been reading many of the old, sometimes 20 year old posts. Many of the project and photo links no longer work . Moved into my new house. 1890s, hardwood floors 12-14 foot ceilings and 14 x27 ft main room plus 11 x 14 foot bedroom. Higher floor moldings than the K horn rear cutouts. General questions, some of which I am only asking due to the high cost and / or limited ability to get parts. Pre COVID, I would likely just do these. On all speakers, but do the big boys first: check all caps and replace the spam can caps on all of the larger speakers that were not previously replaced about 15 years ago, post Hurricane Katrina. Should I just contact Bob Crites? I will assume the crossovers, either original Klipsch or ALKs that I built when he sold the kits years ago are otherwise ok. I know I have a LaScala with a blown tweeter. Which replacement is suggested and will xover changes be required? I do have some baby butt JBL tweeters. Not sure if ok with the xovers. Should all cabinets be opened to check seals, gaskets and snug placement of woofers, mids, and tweeters? Re-gasket and reseal as needed – what do folks suggest for replacement gaskets / seals? Or: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it? Should “O” rings between Alnico or KL drivers and various Klipsch horn components be replaced? If so, with what – just red rubber 25 cent plumber’s O rings? I have never opened any of the large speaker woofer panels / dog houses, etc. I have owned all speakers for about 15-34 years. FWIW I do have 1 set of wooden horn with 1 inch throats I think for the Khorns and a set of JBL radial horns of similar size (still looking for the drivers, lost in a box someplace). Old place had uneven stone floors and crumbly brick walls on 3 sides, plus roof leaks. 17 x 40 uniroom with high sloped ceiling (about 12-17 ft high) and good acoustics. New main room is much smaller, rectangular and without any carpeting or treatments is sonically very harsh. None of the 4 large outside windows work anymore – sealed shut long ago. No idea for the age or “firmness” of the existing plasterboard or drywall, but likely before the 1980s. I do not want to mess the place up making additional 4 x 4 ft 1 in thick plywood wall corners and triangle above the floor to brace things better. This would also likely require screwing the 4 x 4 s above the existing baseboards and floor. For sealing the khorns into a corner, the issue for me is that the baseboard is a few inches taller than the lower Khorn cutout. Should I make some cuts onto the Khorn or simply cut some strips of 1-2 inch wide x 1-2 inch thick pieces of wood and use foam pipe insulation or door seal around them and the rear of the Khorn to make a wall seal on the sides? Some great old posts with pics, like Garyd9 on 2 22 2004 (and many others): https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/37435-sealing-bass-bin-of-khorn/page/2/. Includes the wood corner braces too. I did not find a consensus on how to seal the top few inches or the bottom few inches in the center rear of the K horn woofer cabinet against the vertical wall corner. Suggestions? For sealing any of the large speakers to the floor (not the Heresy’s I guess) these seem to be representative posts: HDBRbuilder had several posts emphasizing the use of grippers, from Jan 7, 2009: Dr. Who: I would like to remind that if it is NOT grippers, then it may NOT have the same effect. Grippers are peel and stick 1/4" thick NEOPRENE with a traction enhancing non-stick side, which will "squish" somewhat under weight and give a better stability on SMOOTH-SURFACED floors which are slightly uneven. Groomlakearea51Posted March 14, 2007 Yup, pipe insulation works perfectly; You can also use 1/4 size (also comes with the "peel off" tape for the sticky edge). To seal to the floor.... I replaced the factory metal gliders (they will tear up a hardwood floor....) with teflon "gliders", but used more of them, including three "inboard" in the center; then used a piece of 3/16" thick x 3/4" wide closed cell foam weather stripping, but did not peel off the the "floor" side "sticky" cover. Slides around perfectly. Cheap to replace after several "move out for spring cleaning" moves that will tend to wear it off. I'm also debating about doing the same thing on the edges instead of pipe insulation next time around. Easier to trim and gets them very close to the wall. My humble Qs: since the 100+ pound LaScala, Belle, or Khorn is technically on small pieces of squished slightly pliable material, is it really “nailed” to the floor? I found some Scotch 8 gripping pads, 1.5 in diam at Home Depot for about $5.00, SP940-NA, 0-51141 59807-9 bar code. I also looked at some of the kitchen drawer liners at Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/search?q=drawer+liner. Could something like these do the trick? Mostly under $1 per foot. How easy or difficult is it to extract those small metal gliders from the factory? I can see doing this with the grippers and the LaScalas and Belle as 2 folks could move the speakers into place with only mildly destroyed finger tips and knuckles at worst. But why not just remove the metal gliders and place directly on the floor with maybe a few pieces of paper or cardboard or those floor sample freebies from Home Depot or Lowes stuffed under a corner to prevent any issues from uneven hardwood? Or even a few pieces of thin wood directly under the corners or fully under the outer floor edges of speakers and using foam or gasket to seal air around the corners and just leave the metal gliders in place? As for the Khorns, doing the grippers plus sealing the rear woofer cabinet to the wall corner will be a real problem so as not to mess up the floor and our hands. Since folks agree not to place the Khorns on a carpet (carpet plastic bottom to the KH bottom), I was thinking of using very thin wood strips above the floor, maybe ¼-½ in thick. For example, just cut to needed length: from Lowes: ReliaBilt 1/4-in x 2-in x 4-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board Model #POPSRL142SU04 $3.04 Seems cheap and easy. Could use multiple wood strips both to move the speakers in and out and seal the air around the KH base similar to the vertical corner walls (adding a touch of foam at the triangle corners). Likely a major finger saver too. The metal sliders could be left in place. Would folks foam or weather strip seal the KH bottoms to the floor (if it could even be done) to prevent any movement through the “cracks”? Thx From NOLA with love
  2. Hello Folks: Westcoastdrums, I need to join your gym !! Definitely not a 1 person job for me, especially lifting them up 5 stairs. About 50 lbs of uneven weight is my max. Maybe 2-4 person job to make sure things don't get bashed up. As memory serves me, from over 20 yrs ago, I think there are only some metal "dots" underneath, no wheels or anything like that. I do not remember anything that seemed to be a slider device. I think I would need 1/4 - 1/2 inch riser or pads to clear the height of the dots., so as not to destroy the hardwood floor, hence the thought of carpet, or maybe thick felt pads Posted here as I saw the pic of one ready to be moved. Apologies if my q is not appropriate and no intention to hijack thread. Again, apologies. Thank you
  3. Hello: I bought some vibration isolators, like in your photo, both the cork and rubbery ones from supplyhouse. Have you found them truly helpful? Thank you Hell
  4. I have an RSW 15 in my 15 x 17 sloped roof bedroom. Heaven. Will go into a smaller room in the new house. I have a friend in Greenville, less than an hour away. Do you have a sub amp also for sale? Please PM me if at least 1 RSW 15 is not sold. Thank you
  5. Hello Folks: I have to move my mid 1970s Khorns about 3 blocks to the new house. What is the best way to move them? The tops can be removed from the bass bins. I can unscrew the wing nuts to the cloth covers at the sides of the bass bins. They will have to go up and down 1 step from the old place and up 5 steps into the new place. Also, what is the best way to place them on the hardwood floor? Is putting a small carpet upside down best so as not to scratch up the old floor. 1890s house, raised on piers as is typical in the French Quarter of New Orleans. Thank you in advance for any comments From NOLA with love
  6. Question on room size and potential modifications regarding Klipschorn speakers Hello Folks: (Hope this is the correct Forum) I live in New Orleans and I am thinking of buying a house (finally). So where to place my “babies”? Top contenders so far: One place had 2 adjacent rooms that were roughly 13 x 13 feet. Not certain of ceiling height, perhaps 11-12 feet. Just a divider that juts in about 18-24 inches on both sides and the top. I would likely not be inclined to take out the mini divider here. So, in a sense, a 13 x 26 foot room. Would do corner horn (3 ft width), space (2 feet), Belle or LS for center (about 2.5 ft), space (2 ft), corner horn (3 ft). Would likely have to put electronics to the side and turntable too. LS rears (I have 4 in place in NOLA now and 2 more LS2s elsewhere). No clue yet where subwoofers would go. No ATMOS set up nor receiver for it (yet…LOL). Would put couch or chair(s) just behind cross point of Khorns (I think). Rt triangle h = ab/c =81/13 = 6.23 ft, or c/2 = 6.5 ft. So the couch or chairs fit in the room with the Khorns. Not sure how far back to put the LSs, if it matters. Other place is larger, but it is more complicated My measurements were different vs realtor in part due to fireplaces and also the built in tables and bookcases in the foyer side of the living room. Etc. My measurements are true usable space. Ceiling height about 12’6” in both rooms. About 9’6” through the divider Usable width is 15’ 5” or so in the dining room and 14’ 6” max or so in the living room. About 75 inches through the divider. Length: about 15’5” in the dining room and about 14’5” in the living room. Main issue, I think is the room divider with roll out doors between rooms. These take up about 48-56 inches per side (due to doors jutting out about 8 inches per side) and 43-47 inches at the top (variation due to architectural moldings). It is a great house and as a “guest” in this 170 y o house for the next 20-30 years (if I am lucky), I would prefer not to cut into or cut out the partial partition at the sides and top. Not sure which room would get the Khorns, but likely the living room up against the front wall and windows. Couch or chairs would be about 7.5-8 feet back. LSs would be in the dining room I guess, but unless placed a few feet to the center of the room, or angled in towards the couch, would I just end up with an acoustic “hot mess”? Is this how folks would do it, please see diagram (approx scales for Khorn, Belle, and LaScala cut outs)? Thx in advance From NOLA with love Possible set up for Khorns Belle and LaScalas at 813.ppt
  7. Hello, Been off the forums for a long time. Bored in COVID isolation...LOL. I have used this type of amp for about 10 years I think. Currently driving a Fender pro sub x 5 years. Fender cabinet is similar size to a LaScala cabinet. 18" driver and 3 ports in the sub cabinet. No issues that I noted with the old model. I only listen about once a week, maybe for 2 hours max. I think 225 is a good price. Already have 2 larger sub amps or i would be tempted. As for repairs, we have a person in New Orleans that seems to be good with fixing gear. Such folks are not everywhere though. Good luck with sale. From NOLA with love.....(although working in the DC area now)
  8. Hello Folks: Just Did Comparison Audio Recordings of 3 TTs and 3 Cartridges I hope this is posted to the correct part of the Forum. Today, I just wanted to make certain that the cartridge physically worked. It does. Although more break in time and tweaking are likely needed. I ran 3 tests today. Most all of my records were bought used, and most are in reasonable though not pristine shape. Each test therefore used a somewhat clean record (but with a couple big fingerprint smudges which are common in my mostly used record collection). I chose somewhat wisely as no loud pops are noted, the record was not warped and had no significant scratches. Bruce Springsteen, Born in the USA. Chosen in part because I thought others might have this for comparison purposes, no bad scratches, and no bad warps. It would be great to get test audio files from others for comparison. Testing gear: Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), Ortofon 2M Blue needle. The TT was bought with a damaged body (nothing that affects the sound) and I swapped out a broken red stylus for a new Blue. No mounting changes were made to the cartridge. Middle string weight position. Technics SL 1210 MK5, bought used and the mounting gimbal might not be in great shape. Stanton Groovemaster cartridge that is blue in color, used, but no idea of prior history of either the TT nor DJ cartridge. Heavy DJ use suspected. Not recently rebalanced. Technics SL 1210 M5G, bought used. New cheap head shell ($15.00 or so) and new AT 33 EV MC cartridge. I bought the 33 on a great sale. So for the price, I decided to give it a try. The screw lengths in the 33 package were a cluster – only 1 screw was of perfect length. I had to “adjust” a longer screw on the other side, so perhaps that subtle difference in weight might cause an issue, though no tilt was obvious. On my stereo, the LT channel was clearly emphasized (or RT side was too quiet). 1.8gr tacking force, the minimum for the cartridge was used. This was not tested with a gauge, only via spinning the counterweight knob. VTA was set to zero position which gave close to parallel positioning. The needle tip looked to be in good position using the SL 1200 overhang gauge. I have never had much luck with the protractors, so I only guestimated this. Phono or TT preamp: Pro Ject Tube Box DS. Bought with the P J TT. Ugly box, but preamp looked pristine. Settings: MM cartridges: pins cross at 40dB and 100pF on both LT and RT sides (as per directions for Ortofon 2M Red). AT 33 EV treated as a Low Output MC (LOMC) due to 0.3 mV output. It is listed at 100 ohms, but the Tube Box manual notes that no pins should cross per capacitance, so I pulled the pins at 40 dB, pulled out the 100pF pin, and placed the only crossing pin at F/V for LT and RT sides and dial was at 10 (as noted for the Ortofon Rondo Red). NO other settings were tested today. Receiver: Onkyo TX SR 805. From around 2007, also bought used. Great shape. My preferred all in 1 unit due to highly rated amp. Tape IN used for preamp input, not the phono input. VCR OUT (Tape out did not work) for recording to desktop computer LINE IN (blue color on the back of the desktop). Cables: nothing fancy. All electronics plugged into same surge protector 8 outlet extension device. Ground wire from TT to Preamp. Another ground wire from Preamp to Onkyo phono grounding pin. There were some audio hum issues before recordings were done, but none were noted during recordings. All TTs were pretty close to level via green level bubble. Audacity was the free software used for the W10 PC. The Groovemaster SL1210 was by far the loudest. So Audacity levels were reduced to about 33%. I thought the sound was ok / good. The Ortofon Blue Pro Ject combo was the next loudest and native Audacity recording level of about 50% was used. I thought this sounded best via Klipsch LaScalas in simple stereo mode. I have a Fender Pro 18” subwoofer too. I have a tiny studio apt where these were tested today. The AT 33 EV was tested after only 2 minutes of prior use by me. It was quiet and I set the Audacity levels to 80% or so. The only reason for the test today was to ensure that the AT 33 EV worked as this was my last day to return the cartridge if it was a dud. So I accept that break in time is needed and likely some more “fiddling” as well. I was not impressed at 2 minutes of use….LOL. On my stereo, I had to readjust the volume for each TT to get a similar loudness. Please bear in mind I have never done this before so I do not know how to edit the sound files at all. There is about 10-20 seconds of dead time from when I start the recording on the computer until I run to the TT and do the needle drop. Only recorded about 60-90 seconds of the Born in the USA tract. Should be enough for listening and comparison purposes. I also do not know how to equalize the recording volumes. They all sounded crappy via my tiny computer monitor speakers. Please let me know your thoughts or how to edit. Seems like the max size for attachments here is 2MB and my recordings are 15-17 MB each. If appropriate, where else to post the comparison that allows uploads of the audio recordings? From NOLA with love
  9. Hello Again: Bought an AT33EV MC cartridge and a headshell to mount it on. In doing my web research I happened onto a few YouTube postings where someone had recorded the same album tract with different needles. (Even played back through my system, the differences I tended to hear were not great.) Wondering how exactly to do the recordings. I think I could send the signal from my receiver all in 1 unit to my laptop or desktop and record it if I knew how, and I do not know how to actually input the sound. I assume for my laptop, the input would have to be via usb. No idea what software to use either. I now have several TTs and multiple needles along with some cleaner and some more used vinyl. Any thoughts appreciated. Also, if this is possible, could I upload 1 minute samples onto the klipsch forums someplace? THX
  10. 1. As for the phono pre amp, the new version needs a few independent reviews. Likely will say it's better, but at a price. For me, 1 issue is that if I go MC, I might need a 2nd phono preamp to use when in NOLA. The one have there is only good for MM carts. 2. What did AT say the charge would be for a retip of the 33 or OC9? If AT does the retip as an OC9, which version, the II or the III? The II has the thinner stylus from what I have read. Therefore, despite the III being newer, the II might be more desirable. Who did you talk to, time to do the retip, did you consider Soundsmith retip, etc? 3. Who are you buying the 33 from? I think I saw it on Amazon, although some suppliers are not in the US. 4. From the pics, the 33 has a very short cantilever. Maybe the shortest I have seen.Do you think this will be an issue during set up and adjustments on the headshell? What headshell and headshell wires are you going to use and why? What is the expected break in time? 50 hours of use? 5. The Avatar is from when I was at the Hockey Hall of Fame in Toronto perhaps 10-15+ years ago. I was at Michigan for 2 years, so a Red Wings fan. They were great in the early 90s and won a Cup or 2. In New Orleans we are very civilized. We believe ice belongs in a cup with some mixers, rum or vodka, etc....LOL. JohnJ, I am sure that many folks would like further updates on the 33 including the install process and how it sounds, me included. Have you ordered it already? THX again NOLA
  11. 1. JohnJ: Is the AT33PTG series likely similar to the OC9 series that I was looking at? If different, how? Where are you getting it from, etc? These are all in the $400-500 plus price range. Maybe we should chat over the phone. Let me know via PM. As for the ProJect Tube Box DS, the price just went down another $100 or so as they have a new, more expensive and different looking version just out. I have never A-B compared it anything else. To be honest, I had the chance to buy one at a good discount when I bought the ProJect TT last year. But based on my ears, the phono preamp has worked just fine with my TTs up in the DC area, and with no need to change any settings. MM carts only. 2. wvu80 / Dave, oh well, how our memories fade until reality steps in. I thank you for the kind offer, but don't worry about the oopsie. 3. Thank you Diz Rotus. 4. Thank you dirtmudd
  12. Thx for the effective mass of the ?tonearm at 12 grams I think all the cartridges I listed should be ok on a Technics 1200 series or similar S shaped tonearm. I have no idea about the capacitance of the internal wiring and any external RCA cables (2 sets, into and from the phono preamp). There appear to be a few web postings that adjustments at the level of the phono preamp can also alter and perhaps improve the overall sound of the system. These postings suggest that we should let our ears decide what sounds good to us, even if the values run different to manufacturer suggestions. Many postings urging very careful alignments etc as part of set up as well. Suffice it to say that these calculations are useful where and the input data is available. But if your possible set up is outside the acceptable range (?9-11?), does additional weighting of the headshell or rear tonearm weight dial allow for suitable adjustments? I have also taken a look at info regarding the AT OC9 ii and iii. These are Low Output MCs that should work with my Tube Box DS pre amp. Several postings that they sounded better than the AT 150MLX MM. Both of the OC9's are at or below $500 which is definitely a hard limit for me. It also limits me because I might need a second pre amp for the MC cartridge (1 for the DC area and 1 for New Orleans, assuming I carry the MC and headshell between locations). I have a low end MM usable preamp in NOLA, but it will not work with a MC. As for the Grado G2, I could not find much info on it. I assume it is at least 30 years old. Perhaps it might also need a stylus replacement, if they are still stocked. I could not find a review of it, but web postings suggest it was well thought of in the past. So yes, I might be interested. Thank you. Have a great Saturday night folks
  13. Wow, TWKH, quite an effort !! Unfortunately, though this will likely help others, I do not know what to do with it. But I will try to figure the calculations from the V E website calculator. I also found another place where the impedance of the wiring was part of the calculations needed for my Tube Box DS settings. All in all, this seemed quite complicated. In the end, one reply indicated that it was ok to mess around with the phono amp settings to find a pleasing sound. I have also called tech support for the Pro Ject phono amp and the man on the phone was quite nice.
  14. Is there a functional reason for the shielding? The shield is only present on one of my 2 MC240s. When I A-B'd the 2 amps, I could not discern much if any difference, despite different brands of tubes, etc. Do I need to find / buy one of these tube shields? THX
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