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Posts posted by Jay L
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Most of the difference will be in the ADC prior to the DAC, the rest of it on the output filtering. Unless you start digital, then it will mainly be the downstream components. No magic involved in this stuff.
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If it were only that easy.
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Because I want to put a big honkin horn in it. There are some things that are required by Dolby. I can't say what they are, but some of it is driven by our own heritage that makes us unique. Thus it makes it harder for us to just slap something together.
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That is the $64,000 question. The answer is yes, there will be a successor to the RF-7. I don't know when that time will be. or do I?
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woop woop The R-115SW is good stuff.
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So would you buy a surround that sticks 11" off the wall just to cram an RP-140SA in the top of it? Actually it would probably be even deeper than that. Things don't translate like they seem to on the surface. Building in Atmos to a surround is on the top of my want list, it is a lot harder to do than you might think.
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I have a few Atmos concepts floating about. A couple I have not even put on paper yet. You never know what might come about. For now, the answer is not sure.
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Nismo, based on what you desribed I would choose the same
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It is tuff to explain why one is better than the other without deminishing the smaller guy. Look at it like any other progression of models. The RF7 is highly regarded right? Now move up to the Jubilee, the RF7 seems like? You get the idea, you make bigger toys for bigger boys. The "lower tier" stuff is still kick ***, but you want even more.
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And no I have no idea what the difference is. I know someone put it there for a reason when using 6 modules. Does it make a difference when only using 4? Not sure, but I stick with verbiage and pictures that match the layout I am working with.
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Also remember if your rear modules are on your back surrounds, choose rear dolby. You would only choose "dolby surround" if your height module was sitting near or on your side surround speakers.
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The tower gets you more of everything. Higher directivity to a lower frequency, more power handling, more of that "holy crap it really sounds like it came from the ceiling" effect. Best way I can describe it.The other difference to consider in the towers is that the RP-280FA uses a 6.5in driver for the height channel, where as if you adding the RP-140SA on top of the RP-280F only gets you a 4in driver for the height channel.
I'm not sure how much difference that would make (maybe someone else can chime in on that) but its something to consider.
It is bigger, better, faster, more...
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Oh wow, did not realise it would be that close to the ceiling. That is too close, that also tells me your surrounds are too high. Do not mount a shelf over your surrounds if it puts the modules more than half way up the wall. Move the modules to a 130-150 degree location from the MLP assuming your side surrounds are at 90. Mount the shelf around 40-45" from the floor to put the modules on.They would only hang over the top by 2". With some rubber feet I doubt the small four inch driver is gonna bounce the speaker around. It might look kinda dumb with the over hang though and shelves directly above the 62's is a good idea. Problem is they will be only 24-36 inches below the ceiling. Would this effect the sound?
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Starting from scratch, go 280FA, 450ca center, RP250s or RP-160M for all surround duty, and use rp-140sa for rear atmos channels. And 2 R-115SW subs to fill out the low end. No one who has heard this has had a single negative comment. Ok maybe one, I heard a complaint of too much LFE. I ignored it.
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The height doesn't sound like a big problem. I don't see how you can sit a 140sa on an RS62, it will fall off. Also it is best to not have them against a wall. If you need to compromise, how about using a small shelf to put them on?I've also been thinking about diving into Atmos but going the RP140 modules on top of my 7's then maybe two more in the rear. Suppose putting them on top of my RS62II's would be a bad decision? The 62's are 12-18 inches above my head and about one foot behind me. So would stacking them on my 62's be a bad decision? That's really the only other place I could put them because my room is only 1900 cu ft. Then ofc I have to sell my beloved 4520 and thinking about the Marantz 7010.
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No matter how you get there, you will never be without Atmos again. It is that much better!
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If you insist on the cinema line, whatever the smallest one is will be fine.
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The height modules should be NOT be higher than half the height of the ceiling. Ideally all speakers are 1.2 meters from the floor. Dolby recommends In/On ceiling speakers have a 90x90 dispersion pattern. I don't see how you can fit a massive pro speaker on the ceiling without it being 5ft. from your head?
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This should be almost identical.
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-dual-binding-post-1-red-1-black--090-475
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Word, straight no tilt.
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Atmos modules should not be mounted any higher than half the height of your wall. It should generally be located very close to your main Left/Right speakers. For rear height channels they should be located as close as possible to the surround back channels. Atmos modules ALWAYS fire toward the ceiling, or it won't work. If you are using them as traditional back surround channels then mounting them as you have woudd be fine, though still too high. The WDST surround speakers you have should be mounted 90 degrees from your couch.
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Don't get hung up on the full range aspect of it, it just isn't a big deal. How much output do you really expect to get below 150Hz from a 6-8" in an open baffle ceiling?
You don't want to be directly below a set of IC speakers either, it will be distracting. With the reflecting approach you really can't loose IMO. If you are in Indy, perhaps I could arrange a demo.
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Turn it up to solve the problem permanently.
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R-115SW, or even a pair of them. You won't find a better sub for the money. Buy direct for a 30 day money back returns.
How Can Two DACs Sound Different?
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
No magic, that is just a guy selling buffalo chips.
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