kegman

Piranha, yes cali would be a long hall for you, the rest of us will have fun in your honor! LOL! Yah I've talked with craig from nos. Don't know many others Hallwalker Hopefully I'll see you there, I believe they are giving name badges based on your sign on name so mine over there is kegger, look me up! I'm hoping to meet some new friends and local contacts as I don't have but 1 buddy who is into audio as I am. Would be nice to find some guys/gals where we may swap/ buy/sell some audio with each other. Well see anyone there who shows up, if you see me (big guy with a big beard) say hi, I'm friendly and won't kick your ***! LOL!

Nobody from the group around anymore aye?

Anyone from michigan, or anywhere else going to: http://www.audiokarma.org/ak2005/ Any get togethers planned anytime soon?

"I don't have a copy of the RC-7 crossover schematic but I expect that something happens in the circuit between the two caps and that makes them need to stay at those values. For instance, the Type AA that I mentioned earlier has a tweeter inductor that come off the circuit between the two 2 uF caps." Still have'nt taken apart the xover yet. But now that I think of it your probably right as there are 2 inductor's on that board all beit they don't come directly in between the 2 caps on the board it is very very possable the tail end of each caps is directly conected to each inductor making a 4th order xover. cap in series 1st order, inductor in paralell 2nd order, cap in series 3rd order, then inductor paralell 4th order. MAKES SENSE DUH! So in that estimation yes the caps will definatly matter as it will change the xover point. Ok I got it now. Time to double check that is the case. Allrighty then! Can't believe I didn't even look for that, DUH! Well if that is the case I will probably build a set of first order xovers and experiment as at the moment I'm running 8watt set. Thanks guy's

I don't believe there is anything between those caps but I'm going to take it apart again to look.

Well that's very interesting as that's whats in the rc7 xovers! They have a 12uf followed by a 3.75uf in series with each other!

Here's probably a stupid question. If you have a xover that runs two caps in series how much if any does it matter that you use the same value of cap originally used for both caps as long as your final result is the same capacitance as the original? EXAMPLE: say the original has a 10uf followed by 4uf in series so you get 2.857 And you used a 12uf followed by a 3.75uf so you get 2.857 Does it matter what you use as long as the end result is the same? What about more or less caps to get the same capacitance? paralel or series Is there a cutoff of extremes that will make a difference if the above example does not? Thanks!

Unfortunitaly dean I had allready done the mods I praposed before I got your info. (live and learn) Now when the other parts come in I will do as you say. Didn't feal it necasary to rip it apart again just to do the resistors until I get the other parts. Just have to wait for my parts order then we'll go at it again! Thanks! Any thoughts on internal box treatments? Stuffing and such?

Well still a little bright even after the work! But better! So it's time to do some cap replacement. Ordered some kimber caps, we'll try those. If that doesn't get me where I want I'll try some jenson pios, first just the 3.75uf in the last chain of the series caps then from there if needed.

What about repacking the inside of the cabinet as klipsch does not put much in there? I repacked the walls and back with half thickness pink insulation. Any thoughts?

I was doing some cap prices when low and behold welborne labs has all there kimber caps 50% off! I ordered 4 of each 1uf 2.2uf 4uf 5uf 6uf plus some mills resistors and a couple other things. came to $157 plus a discount and I'll have extras! There limited in whats left and I had to buy what they had but for the discount I jumped on it as I'll have extra for other projects. Pretty cool!

Thank you very much dean! I've been a computer tech for about 20 years now and have worked at a couple places repairing electronics, radios and such so I thought I had that part figured out. (I miss type all the time to) I can trace my way around a curcuit and have recently been doing some mods /repairs on my tube equipment plus some speaker upgrades but by no means am I a master at this stuff, still learning as I go but I can solder with the best of um so I don't mind experimenting/hacking. Besides that I can't leave anything stock! Allways have to take it apart to see if I can improve it. And lately I like what pio's have done for coupling caps in my tube equipment so I figured it was time to mess with the rc7's. (built me a center with parts) Right now I'm running an antique sound labs 300b (original design no knobs) and I picked up the anthem pre 2l as I think it was you who also liked these for the price of $500 in really good condition with the remote. I've also got plenty of other amps I've tested these and many other speakers with! From stock to modded st70's to totally rebuilt golden tube audio se40's to a rogue 88 tube amp and other various preamps. I'll keep experimenting with these till I get um where I like um!

Hey thanks for the pic your right those babies are huge! Dean I'm a little confused about this statement, sorry if I'm asking to much! But I am a hack at best when doing this stuff but I figure eventually I'll learn! Anyway's this! "if the top is still too hot, then drop the series resistor by .5 ohm" It would seam if I lower the resistence on the series resistor going into the horn then I would get more out of the horn not less, Am I missing something?

Dean thanks for the info! I do not intend to mess with anything but the horn side of the xover! (That's the only area I feel unsatisfactory for my listening taste) The 2 things I am trying to accomplish with modding the xover are. 1. loose a little on the top end (just a little too bright for me) 2. smooth out the performance on the horn, more mellow/musical! As modding the xover is relativly easy I found no problem with experimenting with the series resistor size and brand. But! I don't really have a problem with the price of the parts if the outcome is what I'm looking for or find it a substantial upgrade. I just find it tough to buy expensive parts to experiment with! All of the above upgrades you mention I will look into. ------------------------------------ I do have another question though, as the smaller of the two caps is the last cap before the driver, any thoughts on just replacing that one with a Jenson pio cap? And which jenson pio's do you suggest? Thanks for any and all suggestions I do take them all serious!

First impressions seem pretty good, I believe the horns not to be harsh now and have tamed down some without being anywhere near dull! More listening and maybe even some parts breakin will tell!

Leo, Agree with your whole post and I'll look into the correct size pio's when I get a few extra bucks. For right now since it's easy and I have the parts I'm bypassing the series caps with new .22uF @ 400V Mil Spec german PIO Caps and replaced the series resistor with a mills 3.5ohm verse the original 2ohm. We'll let that fly for awhile and see what happens, I'll probably replace the caps with the larger jensen pio's in the future when I get some. But let's see what this sounds like for now! Thanks and anymore suggestions from you or anyone else is welcome and wanted. Se yu!

Haven't heard that one before but I'll keep it in mind anyway! Thanks for the reply!

Thanks don! I may try that.

Dflip: Thanks for the info but I'm not sure what this means! "I have found I needed to add another 1/2 - 3/4" of rope caulk to my Cornwalls" Could you please explain a little? Much appreciated!

Thanks for the reply! So you just use 2 caps, the series ones on the horn section of say 12uf and 3.75uf "that's what the rc7's use anyways" ? Not bypassing any other caps just two large pio caps? Just wondering as it would seem most people use a smaller pio cap to bypass the larger with as the larger value pio's are very expensive! Not critcizing at all just making sure that is what your doing. Any thoughts as to bypassing with pio's?

I allready posted this in the 2 channel section when I noticed this catagory! Sorry haven't posted much here and still learning! Anyway here's the question! ------------------------------ I've got my rc7's apart right now and I'm going to do some tweaking on the horn part of the xover and was wondering if one should leave or replace the mica caps with poly's. (2 rc7's as mains) What I'm planning on doing is Bypassing whatever caps I use with pio's that I have and up the 2 ohm resistor in line with the horn to a four. The speakers are a little to bright for me and I figured the pio's may give me a little more juice per say and the extra padding on the horn to tame the brightness a little! Any thoughts? Sound about right? I've got mills & dale wirewound resistors to replace the originals with. And I have plenty of quality poly caps in various sizes and brand. The pio caps I have range in brand but mostly around .10uf in size.

I've got my rc7's apart right now and I'm going to do some tweeking on the horn part of the xover and was wondering if one should leave or replace the mica caps with poly's. (2 rc7's as mains) What I'm planning on doing is Bypassing whatever caps I use with pio's that I have and up the 2 ohm resistor in line with the horn to a four. The speakers are a little to bright for me and I figured the pio's may give me a little more juice per say and the extra padding on the horn to tame the brightness a little! Any thoughts? Sound about right? I've got mills & dale wirewound resistors to replace the originals with. And I have plenty of quality poly caps in various sizes. The pio caps I have range in brand but mostly around .10uf in size.

I've gotten the tubes4hifi boards too from roy and they are fantastic! Nice now it uses (3) 12at7 input tubes. I installed them myself and worked great. Roy is a pretty good guy! About 6 months after I installed the boards I found that craig from nosvalves didn't live that far from me so he invited me over and we went through my st70 some more with extra capacitance in the pw supply and hey changed two caps on the tubes4hifi board to smooth out a very small ripple when looked at on the scope. He has the same board mods on an st-70 he has and found the issue about the board caps. The board mods are a truly remarkable transformation of the st-70. When craig tested mine we were flat frm 10hz-35k and 42watts a channel clean! Both Roy and craig are great guys who know there stuff!

Yes I've found the same info "a british firm having them. Also listed in Vacuum Tube Valley under Liouz(sp?)" But that's about as far as it go's. I've looked up and down for any of them with those contacts but no go! I emailed Vacuum Tube Valley and am waiting for a response. I'm sure a couple will show up some where.

"It's very unlikely you're going to find a "matching pair" that matches your "matched pair", although you'll probably be able to find another pair that are matched between themselves" agreed and that's really all I'm looking for , 2 per each side of the amp. So as you say as long as I can find 2 more strays I'll give em a try.