Jump to content

tofu

Regulars
  • Posts

    518
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by tofu

  1. Tofu,

    Your parts list will definitly make a good crossover. The important parts to get right are the .20 and .30 Litz inductors. The pricing depends on where you get them but they won't be as expensive as Hovlands by any sight!

    Al K.

    thanks for the words of confidence. makes things a lot easier knowing i can use 100% solen parts instead of having to shop around northcreek and hovland.

  2. Dude!

    2 2.40 mHy inductor wound of AWG #12 solid $63.18

    2 .30 mHy inductor wound of AWG #14 Litz wire $18.38

    2 .20 mHy inductor wound of AWG #14 Litz wire $15.14

    That is a fabulous quote. Is the solid one the S122.4?

    Damn. If you won't buy em, I will.

    yep, those are the prices from the solen site. al's schematic calls for a awg#14 for the woofer, but dean recommended i buy the #12 or #10 if possible. #10 was a bit too rich for my blood at $50 per inductor.

  3. Tofu, still want those parts?

    i sure do! but due to this thread, i've had to make a bit of a revision to my list. i think this is sufficient to make a good ALK universal network.

    2 2.40 mHy inductor wound of AWG #12 solid $63.18

    2 .30 mHy inductor wound of AWG #14 Litz wire $18.38

    2 .20 mHy inductor wound of AWG #14 Litz wire $15.14

    4 20 uFd. +-5% Solen "Fast Cap" $22.44

    2 6.8 uFd. +-5% Solen "Fast cap" $5.28

    4 2.2 uFd. +-5% Solen "Fast caps" $6.88

    comes out to about $131 + shipping/handling. let me know if i made any errors pricing out the caps/inductors, or if you suggest any changes.

    would a Money Order be all right with you? my spending limit on paypal is down to around 40 bucks.

  4. Now I got a question: I got a pile of base boards made on a CNC machine for my Universal network that have a hole cut for a terminal post just in the right place for the lead length of the Hovland 2.2 uF cap. What reasonably priced caps have stranded wire leads of the same or longer length as the Hovlands? I don't want to drill holes and add another terminal post just to change cap brands! If I just moved that one terminal post the leads of the 6.2 + 1.0 wouldn't be long enough.

    Al K.

    well, al, i'm sure you get discounts for buying in bulk, but from what i priced out, the hovlands cost ~$80 four, versus using four fastcaps at $6.88. is drilling holes REALLY that bad? [:P]

  5. "I don't get it? Why would you use Solens in your high buck ES crossovers and Hovlands in your less expensive universal? I mean if they make no difference why the heck would you spend 20 times more for those 2 locations on the universal networks? Wouldn't it be pertinent to omit the Hovlands and pass the savings onto your customers? "

    Greg,

    There is several answers to this. (None of them are very good though!):

    1 - This was my first design and I want to pull out all the stops! I was also not very aware of alternitives at the time.

    2 - Snob appeal!

    3 - The design is very simple compared to the ES networks and I still hope that the design might have an edged using super quality caps.

    The truth is, I have always stated in my downloadable design info that you could save some money by using Solen caps instead. I really think the overkill is those 1 uf Harmony bypass caps. I have already stoped using the one around the 39 uF cap in the ones I build. I am using two 20 uF FasCaps instead. The ESR (Q) is actually better wit two 20 uFs. The 6.2 + 1 uF could be a single 6.8 uF FastCap instead. I suppose I should give the customer cap options like Dean does!

    Al K.

    reading this one post made skimming through the entire 8 pages of this thread worth it for me.

    ... and here i was about to put down $80 for the four hovland caps.

    edit: well this brings the cost down to a total of $143 for caps/inductors (with a higher guage wolen woofer inductor) and an extra $60 for the two auto transformers.

  6. Do ya ever get tired of this hobby? I mean to where you just don't listen to music or watch tv anymore. I'm fairly well tripping over speaker cabinets all over my house, only about one third of them are actually plugged into anything, but it just doens't mean much anymore. I don't enjoy all the stuff, as much as I used to love music, it just doens't do anything for me. I find myself shutting it all down and just going to bed earlier and earlier....

    Michael

    i can see that happening. perhaps you should try out the DIY areas of the hobby and start building your own horn speakers. it's sure more rewarding knowing something you created with your own hands sounds much greater than most speakers on the market.

  7. Get a skinner equipment rack ,throw the CDs in a draw,inches gained 5''+3\4''MDF+a pinch lets call it 6'',now you have 3" to play with on each side, but what really ticks Johny'Holiday off, is there could be a standing wave, between that left wall, an that right entry way wall,try a defuser like a wall hanging, or throw some pillows up on the TV, you have enough room the center speaker is so high,an a different antenna system,the scotch tapes got to go bro

    U sure gave me the opposite review of most people, thanks for being different.[:|] I don't want to waste money on an equipment rack i don't need. I have no idea what u mean by a standing wave, it sounds fine though. What's a standing sound wave do? Yep the center sounds fine to. Don't listen to tuner much. Yeah i don't care for the antenna either. Actually i would like options on what to do for getting radio.

    you could lay your rf-3's on their backs aiming at the ceiling and they would still sound "fine." that doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. simple rearrangement isn't asking much.

  8. What if this problem is caused by what i found out re doing my 74 K-Horns...i found that the back air chamber was not airtight and it leaked pretty bad.Maybe some of us forum members who report bad bass have this problem and dont know it, its easy to fix and check,it does not take much of a crack or glue leak to cause a big leak.Rick

    i understand you're talking about khorns, but could this apply to the la scala as well? when checking out the woofer, i noticed there was no weather stripping or any kind of sealant between the "cover" and the "opening." i'm pretty certain SOME air escapes from there, i'm just not sure how severe the issue is.

    it's quite a pain to take these heavy suckers off of the risers, unscrew both panels, put them back on, and set them back on the risers again, this is why i'm asking before i start doing it.

×
×
  • Create New...