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Everything posted by Paragon

  1. You do not wnat to send line-level input into the sub even if it did work. You would probably blow the system as you would have full blast volume at all times. You would have to have an output that is volume controlled by your computer or something bet even then you are asking for trouble if you volume were to go full on. It MIGHT work http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/102005.aspx I would just be sure to have a preamp/volume control on it of some sort. You probably need to use some sort of headphone output with volume control to drive them.
  2. The sub is always on when plugged in with the control pod hooked up (not sure how it is when it is not hooked up) The DIN takes the power from the sub to the control pod where it powers the opamps for the preamp and headphone output) The singal is then sent back to the DIN and the sub for the speakers. The fuse on the power board inside the amp. If you do not know anything about electronics, don't attempt this. Find a friend/someone who does and is used to working on PCBs. You can get an idea of what you are dealing with here http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/102240.aspx If you know what you are doing, you can open the control pod up, remove the two screws that hold the board in and remove that (have to push it sideways of a sort and pull up lightly on the cords to remove it. The headphone and input jack sorta hold it in. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/87492.aspx You want to check the yellow/blk and the yellow wires for +-15V. If you are not getting it, the sub is not sending power. If it is getting voltage, then check the voltage at the opamps. (careful, you can easily short out the opamp) You will see two opamps, of the upper one (closest to the cables) will be upper left corner (there should be a dot on the opamp to show you) that is audio output from the opamp. Pin 4 is the one on that same left side but the bottom pin. That is the -Voltage pin. The upper right pin across from pin 1 is pin 8. That is +Voltage pin. If you need better explanation, look for the schematic of NJM5532 online. Careful not to short anything out when you turn the power on and test with the meter leads. You can also open the sub up and check for voltage there at the DIN connection instead of the control pod and also voltage in the amp in general. You must know what you are doing or you can be hurt. You are dealing with house voltages in some areas of the amp. You will need to disconnect the sub speakers in order to remove the amp section. Make note where the wires go on the speakers. Hope it helps a little. Don't kill youself.
  3. One review mentioned that they changed the midrange to match better with the sub and tweeter. Probably just a slight value change in the crossover.
  4. Did you hook the front speaker pods into the spot for the rears and test just the rears? iirc.. the brown goo is glue to hold those caps down so they do not get damaged. How does the headphone output sound? with and without the rears plugged in? You may want to pull the other two screws form the CP and look at the other side of that board. Possible that one of the opamps might be toasted or something.
  5. 4 philips screws.. pull it apart. There is nothing that can go wrong..(it's not working at the moment anyhoo) I have had mine open many time. Just do not overtighten when you put it back together. It may be a connection came apart inside from the jack to the driver or you might have a bad jack. You can try connecting the driver direct to the amp to test or if you have a multimeter, you can test for continuity between the two ends of the wire at the amp end to the driver
  6. my Grado 325 are breaking in nicely.. This message has been edited by Paragon on 05-02-2002 at 05:43 PM
  7. Yeah.. tehy already sound sweeter than when I first tried them..seems like the bass comes thru more.. real nice I will be building a nice amp over summer.. prolly pocket size.. with alot of current so the bass should be even better. I think this past week I have only really used the Grado.. Even in gaming. 'cept this morning I had the Pros on while I got done.
  8. Ya still here, Hofy? Havn't ya gone home yet? This message has been edited by Paragon on 04-25-2002 at 04:43 PM
  9. Unfortunately, I do not have an amp to test on nor do I have any other headphone to test. These are my first real headphones. I have only listened to the 225 at the Hi-Fi shop for a short time to hold me over till they got the 325
  10. go to www.headphone.com they have the 2200 on sale for 50 as for your selection, they are all going to be nice. mind most those senns are 64ohm ya.. what i would pick.. would probably be the 570 cost aside. Dont go too much on numeric freqresponse. The best thing to do is find a place to audition them and see what ya like However, you may like the lighter weight and at the sale cost, the 2200 may be for you..or not. anyhoo.. left hand is tired.. l8r
  11. Yep.. I finally got them.. Grado SR-325. Well.. They are all that I have been listening to today. Still considered new, hardly broken in and they sound great. Even from the box they were nice. Anyhoo.. to post what I said I would when I got them. They work fine through the CP-1 and my PCDP as well Looks like my Promediua will be getting a rest for a while.
  12. Try messing around with your sub placement.
  13. LOL.. nice.. I see you have a lot of time on your hands
  14. Ray, Good luck with finding another job. Hope you do not have to depart with too much
  15. NICE!!.. I like it ard. I wonder how many ard fans are here?
  16. I don't think it would really hurt them. In the same sense.. I do it to mine all the time. I have my Pros plugged into my under-monitor type surge protector with seperate buttons for each outlet. All I do when I shut down my comp is turn off the main switch Sometimes.. I will turn the speaker button off before doing this but most of the time I don't bother I wouldnt worry about it.. I can sit here all day switching the power to mine on and off and it doesnt even hurt them. *Just make sure the volume level on the control pod is fairly low as to avoid the loud "pop" when plugging them back in and turning on the speaker switch on the control pod. Hope this helps..
  17. ok.. lets try this again.. lost the first instructions I was writing.. OK.. first.. take the screw out of the bottom of the sat that is holding the stand and then slide the stand out - the screw may be on tight as well as the stand - make sure you use a large philips head screwdriver that fits tightle in the screw so you do not strip the head - you will need this screw later so set it aside. The above image shows how the correct bracket should be places and screwed on with a flathead screw included with the RB-1 stands. The other hole is where the sat is screwed on bt sliding the sat on and using the screw from the old stand Hope this helps.. any questions just ask. This message has been edited by Paragon on 12-23-2001 at 07:25 PM
  18. I have the 4.1 set and have noticed static at times.. but it is very weird - only some songs will have static when turning the volume. Again... it IS a rare thing and doesnt happen all the time.
  19. IMHO.. I would just use what you have now. The audigy isnt necessarily a better card for your uses. I am using the SBLive5.1 and am pleased with the sound quality. As for the higher 24bit etc stuff with teh audigy.. most things are not encoded that high to take advantage of it. I think the only thing out that is encoded that high would be SACD.. possibly DVD. anyhoo.. ------------------ 1GHz TBird @ 1096MHz Abit KT7A-RAID Kingmax 256MB PC150 256MB PC133 Infinion Annihilator2 32MB GT§ 230/354 Intel Pro100+Management NIC Promise Ultra100 IBM 75GXP 45GB ATA100 Maxtor DMP6800 27.2GB ATA66 Plextor 16X10X40A §ony 12X DVD §BLive! 5.1 AOpen HX08 Full Tower 300W §ony CPD-G400 19" Triny ProMedia 4.1
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