texican58

---------------- On 5/27/2005 8:53:54 AM Colin wrote: nice system bet it sounds great but no sub? need a sub with LS! not just for movies, but for music too. ---------------- Using the Dynaco ST70, how would one connect/integrate a sub into that configuration? I've been looking at tube amps/preamps and am dying to hear the difference. Is there anything wrong with a good, rebuilt Dynaco ST70? I've not heard of this "vrd" thing. What's up w/ the Peaches and Blueberries? I know nothing (in the immortal words of Schultz) about either. Do I need one of these as well? I have Klipsch LaScalas (AL-3), and Cornwalls in my HT configuration. I would love to hear the difference b/t my Yamaha VXR2400 HT receiver and a real tube configuration. I don't know where to start. Help is appreciated, especially from those of you with lots of experience. Regards....Mitch

---------------- On 6/21/2004 8:23:20 AM picky wrote: A blind guy sits down at the bar and asks if the bartender would like to hear a good blonde joke. Bartender: Well, first of all, I am blonde, second of all, the woman sitting next to you is blonde and a black belt in karate. The person sitting two stools down from you on the opposite side is a blonde biker, and there are two blonde championship weight-lifters shooting pool behind you. Now, do you think you still want to tell us your blonde joke? Blindman: No, I've changed my mind. I don't want to have to explain the joke 5 times! (Rimshot implied) ---------------- Caught at work again!!! Laughed Out Loud, (many persons rushing to my office to inquire) What should I say? I just read one of the best 'blonde' jokes ever. LOL....

---------------- On 5/19/2005 6:19:22 PM texxas guy wrote: Ok, I picked up the speakers from the dealer today and told them I would attempt this fix myself. Didn't want to ship them back to Klipsch after reading the nighmare shipping thread here. He was on the phone with the Klipsch rep and he said they had no problem with me doing this. My question is, what is the best way to get the back off? Do I need to remove the woofers and heat it up with a hair dryer from the inside and out, then tap on it from the inside gently with a rubber mallet? Is there going to be any problem with the crossovers as far as removal?Input appreciated! Thx, Larry ---------------- In my KLF-20's there's enough slack in the X-over wiring and speaker connections to remove fronts or backs. Once you get the backs off, you'll see what Colter was talking about (a very poor glueing choice - IMO). I would take 1 woofer out (middle) and tap against the "loose" portion of the back until it begins to give way. Once you get it started it should remove fairly easily. Once removed, clean the back piece, put new glue on the mating board or back and re-install it. To be sure of good adhesion, you might want to place pressure on the back piece to ensure a tight bond (clamps, sandbags, etc.) Good luck to you... Mitch

---------------- On 5/20/2005 4:55:14 PM cueman wrote: I did not disassemble the cabinets, no. You simply measure the veneer and cut to size. Give yourself an extra inch or so. On the inside pieces, like the doghouse roof, you need to measure and cut it exact. I used contact cement. It is not the right stuff for raw veneer. Is your veneer paper backed? I think contact cement is right for that. Wood glue wood be best for raw veneer, I think. Heck I don't know. ---------------- I'm planning to use the Titebond glue. My veneer is raw (no paper backing). I'll post pics as this project moves forward. Thanks...mitch

That's too much, tremendous, awesome, what a job!!! Cueman, you rock! I dare you to advertise 'em. They'll easily bring $1600 - $2000. I, too, will be up considering something similar. Out of curiousity, do you have to disassemble the cabinets to do this project? If not, how do you get the exact dimensions for the veneer? I'm lost as to where I would start on such a project. Meanwhile, I finally got my Walnut veneer from CertainlyWood.com. Before I screw this up, what cement should I be using? Contact Cement? Titebond II? etc? Mitch

Michael, The shipping charges weren't bad. I paid $70 each for FedEx Ground (Grand Rapids, MI to Houston, TX.) $140 isn't bad considering the weight, dimensions, etc. I threw a few extra bucks towards insurance, but the total charge (I think) was less than $150. Hope things are well w/ you. Mitch

I don't know exactly what they charged for the packing, but I do know that I paid him $195 for shipping and packing from SC. to TX. (5-day Ground). My LaScalas were only $140 from MI. to TX. The KLFs weighed 90lbs each and the LaScalas were 130lbs each.

I must say that I was very eager just to hear these babies before UPS came and retrieved them, so I carefully re-assembled both units and secured them with shrink wrap (just to hold the units together) during testing. Even without properly sealing these units, they still rock! It's a shame that i can't negotiate something w/ UPS where I could purchase what's left of these for $100. For that amount of money, I would completely disassemble these units and rebuild them using 3/4" plywood, and a new veneer job. They wouldn't be 100% Klipsch, but they would still be awesome.

Shots of my trashed KLF-20s. I purchased these things last week. I had them shipped via UPS using their agent Mailboxes, Etc for packaging. I guess they must give the "packing" jobs to the newbies, because the only packing that was done was a thin cardboard box and peanuts? These things were trashed when they got here. Here are some pics. Enjoy or cringe (as I did). When I see Klipsch speakers in pain, hurt, damaged, it affects me.

and with the box open? Pics of the missing LaScala

Pics of the missing LaScala

Update! They found the speaker! I just got off the call w/ FedEx. Apparently, when something gets lost, can't be identified, etc., it gets routed to a collecting depot in Salt Lake City. I noticed a single Klipsch LaScala on eBay yesterday and guess where? It's in Salt Lake. After careful inspection, I realized that it was not my missing unit, but it got my attention. Anyhow, I digress. The speaker is in SLC, and is being routed to me today. Finally! Thanks to all that have contributed to this topic. I hope it helps others in the future, or at least highlights some of the issues that you may have to endure when using shipping companies. From what I've experienced recently, UPS seems to be the clear leader in Customer Satisfaction. Noteworthy. I also picked up a pair of KLF-20s recently. They were packaged by Mailboxes, Etc and shipped via UPS. The shipper did not insure them. They arrived trashed. The fronts (motorboard) were falling off, the back on one of them fell off, one tweeter(horn) was not working, shells were full of styro-peanuts, corners were mashed and splintered, some leveling feet had impaled the cabinet from being dropped on end, etc. I took pix, emailed the seller, he contacted UPS and they are taking care of everything (even without insurance), as they are acknowledging that their packager failed to pack these appropriately. Full refund to me and the seller. That's SERVICE! Take care all...Mitch

---------------- On 5/4/2005 8:48:01 PM MrMcGoo wrote: How can something be "vintage" if they still manufacture it??? What was the age of the set? What is the bluebook on it? Get your evidence together, then call a senior claims rep. Do NOT cash the check. A missing speaker ruined the matched PAIR. Ray Garrison has a relationship with FedEx. PM him for some advice on the best procedure for quick resolution. Bill PS: I wish that I had read this post BEFORE I purchased my latest item. B ---------------- Oh, and get this. The information/explanation that they included with the check mentioned NOTHING about limited liability on Vintage items. It did mention "collectibles", but collectible is an extremely vague idea and concept. If I buy something from ebay, audiogon, Jared, Walmart...it doesn't matter, I'm still collecting it, am I not? The way they're using this loose classification of 'collectible' allows them to throw anything into that category. From my perspective, if I buy something, I'm collecting it. I'll take some good advice from you guys. I'm not cashing the check, I am escalating within FedEx, and I am going to work this thing the best way I can. Stay tuned and thanks for the input and advice. Mitch

---------------- On 5/3/2005 5:21:10 PM NOSValves wrote: That is ridicules. I have had a customer paid $450 for damage to a amplifier that was shipped here. Funny part is I fixed the damage for free so he ended up with it completely free the claim covered the purchase and rebuild. All he used for proof of worth was a past eBay auction closing price without a single problem. I think you should not cash the check and go back and argue. Craig ---------------- No doubt about arguing this issue. I won't cash the check. I'm going to work this thing from every angle I can. Thanks for the input....Mitch

---------------- On 5/3/2005 9:24:53 PM johnyholiday wrote: don't cash that check! if you do it means your in agreement ,contact their legal department ,an tell them you will sue them, on just princple ; FedEx paid me $169 for reimbursement of the speaker shipping cost and the value of the speaker;an why would you have to pay shipping, on something you didn't get ,tell them being subpoena, an depossition under oath ,all the way up the chain ,is quite uncomfortable, an you would like to resolve the issue, you have all the documentation ,an have made your, $200 an hour esq, card company, insurnace comissioner,bbb,... aware, an document everyone you talk to in the process ,and of course you will also sue them for court costs, you incure,don't deal with customer service, which is farmed out, get ahold of the higher ups ---------------- Exactly! In fact, that's exactly what the check states (acceptance of the check would constitute final resolution to the claim...yada-yada...) I'm not about to cash that check. thanks for the heads-up anyway...Mitch

---------------- On 5/3/2005 11:05:28 PM k2dx wrote: Contact American Express and see if you were insured by them as well. Mastercard insures any purchases you make using their card, as well as extending a warranty on an item by 50%, for up to one year. Pretty handy on a major appliance. ---------------- this is my next move. I was worried that this would rob my seller and he did nothing wrong. But, i didn't even think about insurance for lost merchandise. Great call! Thanks,....Mitch

---------------- On 5/3/2005 8:35:48 PM mungkiman wrote: I could understand them not wanting to pay on some vintage item that was damaged in transit by YOUR negligence, but I can't understand them not paying your claim for something THEY LOST! I would hate to think it isn't lost, that someone on the shipping chain FOUND it and has a sweet new center channel. For your sake, I truly hope this works out in the best possible way. If not, you will be able to collect the fair market value of the item. As a single, it should be worth more than half of the pair, but they may not give you that. The fair market value shouldn't be determined by them, at any time. I didn't catch the sales price, but that may be the closest indicator of market value. Best of luck! Chris ---------------- Chris, You don't how many times I've already thought of that. Some FedEx dude is listening to my matched LaScala in his living room and already knows that FedEx will simply deny the claim using this "vintage" BS category. I've got a lawyer friend that's trying to help me with this issue right now. Maybe he can make some progress. Thanks. I'll keep everyone posted. Mitch

It was definitely FedEx Ground. I didn't know that they were not part of the original FedEx. I've always had the highest respect for both UPS and FedEx, but this ordeal has completely erased any good that FedEx ever did. I can only hope that they may still find the speaker and deliver it to me. Thanks....mitch

Forum members, If you haven't heard of this take heed. I purchased a nice set of Klipsch LaScalas on eBay back in March. I contacted the seller for packaging options. He agreed to package them for a minimal price. I called FedEx and used my account to create a "Call Tag" (a pickup dispatch) whereby FedEx personnel are dispatched to pick up a package and it's automatically billed to my FedEx account. No problem...right? Wrong!!! FedEx picked up the packages (2 speakers) at the seller's residence, and my tracking began online. I saw the pickup information (2 items each with their own tracking #), I say their routing (left Grand Rapids, MI...arrived in Chicago, etc.) They showed that 1 package left Chicago, the other one didn't. Days later one LaScala shows up at my front door in great shape. I hooked it up...it sounded awesome. The other one is still missing (they can't find the speaker). It's 38"x26"x27" and weighs 135lbs. FedEx can't find it. My recourse? File a claim! I filed a claim w/ FedEx to cover my loss. I had to provide to them a copy of what I paid for it (American Express to PayPal), the PayPal statement showing that payment was made to the seller, and estimates of the item's value. I insured each speaker for $1000 each and paid the premium. The claim has just been resolved! FedEx paid me $169 for reimbursement of the speaker shipping cost and the value of the speaker. Evidently, FedEx reserves the right to classify this type of equipment as "vintage" and vintage items have a high-limit cap that restricts FedEx's liability to $100 per item. So, my LaScala has vanished without a trace and FedEx has reimbursed me $169. Life is soooooo good! Moral of the story? There's nothing like local pickup...OR...don't use FedEx for shipping anything w/ more value than $100 (which basically rules out all Klipsch equipment). Later, fellow dudes and dudettes....Mitch

Auction's Over! Winning Bid $300!...and it wasn't me. I think my limit was $250 and that was a stretch. The search is on! mitch

---------------- On 4/12/2005 10:58:50 AM colterphoto1 wrote: Mitch, at this point, you only need one 600 Horn, right? Might I get in line to purchase the two K55 drivers if you win? (I won't bid against you good buddy). Too many of my speakers have other than those driviers and I'd like to correct that. I would suggest you use EZSnipe, they will give you the first three snipes for FREE! IT's easy to sign up, just make sure your name and password exactly match those you're using on ebay. They'll put your last second bid in automatically for you, so you don't have to sit by the computer and stress out. Michael ---------------- Michael, No problem at all on the drivers. You're first in line, and yes...I just need the K600 flute (1). I'll be watching that auction carefully when it ends. I might take your advice and do the EZSnipe bit. How many K55s do you need. Since this is a pair, I can let at least one complete set (driver and horn), and another K55 driver go. Keep me advised. Mitch

---------------- On 4/12/2005 8:43:33 PM greg928s4 wrote: I don't think a router is a good way to go either. I've recently started tipping my pieces upside down on a table with the edge on a piece of hardwood or metal and cutting the veneer overlap off with a sharp knife. You have a lot more control cutting down onto the veneer than reaching up underneath, especially when you are seated in front of it and looking closely at where you're cutting. (I used to cut up underneath the veneer with a metal straight edge on top, and before that I would cut from the top, against a metal straight edge) You just have to be careful not to cut in with the grain. You also have to be careful not to rip the veneer at the end. Sometimes I cut in from both sides to the middle. No matter what, you have to be very careful cutting the overlap off. I now finish the freshly cut edge with a block sander instead of a power sander like I did before. You'll still want to dab a little glue on the cut edges with your finger before gluing the next side on so you get a good joint at the edge. Just a general comment - this iron-on method has not gotten any easier for me even though I've now done a lot of it. I still have the same problems with bubbling and getting the veneer to stick down everywhere evenly. I also have the same problems with cracking and keeping the matched edges tight. Greg ---------------- Greg, See....that's what scares me the most about this project (are you reading Colter?). I truly appreciate your valuable input on this process. I've seen your work, and you make it look easy although it's probably quite tedious. Turning it over and cutting down against a hard surface makes complete sense. So does using the block sanding approach for finishing. My issues are more with getting the bookmatching to stay together using veneering tape. (That just sounds too fragile). What about applying some glue to the edges of the bookmatched sides (or do you already do that)? What's the 'cracking' problem that you mentioned? Re: Ironing, do you use a damp cheesecloth or pillowcase-like fabric between you and the iron? Are you at it's highest setting (Cotton+)? Let me know...and thanks for the input. mitch

---------------- On 4/11/2005 6:11:44 PM colterphoto1 wrote: Mitch, there are two corn horns only on ebay right now. Looks like thread mounts, so you could get both, possibly trade or sell the other to pay for the K55 that you want. Then sell the K700 units to someone wanting to build up a custom Heresy center and you shouldn't be out much money. Don't worry about the ebay 600's being the metal ones, the rope caulk mod works great, I did it on one of my LSI's and the result was fantastic! Michael but wasn't all this Mr. Science talk fun? ---------------- The Mr.Science stuff was very interesting...lots of contributors jumping through hoops to determine volume displacement measurements. What's admirable is that this must be worthy of consideration for many to attempt to get accurate measurements. The tonal characteristics of the CW are already unique, and mucking w/ that is nearly a mortal sin for me. Ergo the attempt to get the right replacement equipment in it. I'm already all over the correct K55/600s on eBay. I'm currently the high bidder, but there may be some other dude/dudette in need of the same, so no chickens being counted here...just elevated anticipation. thanks for the help and replies. mitch

---------------- On 4/11/2005 3:18:01 PM colterphoto1 wrote: JW- can you dunk your 601 alone? I'm willing to do a plastic horn, but there's NO WAY I'd put a driver under water. I have a 700 plastic (is that a 701) from a Heresy out right now. So you put a mark on the side of your utility sink, then dunk the wrapped horn, make another mark, then pour water in to determine the volume of water displaced by the horn, right? do you have the in3 -> Gallons or OZ calculation? I can't find it. This is ridiculous, but fun! How many in3 or how much % difference should we determine is enough to bother with? 10% of the volume? or ???? Michael ---------------- The other issue is the mounting. That 700 horn has 4 mounting holes (2 on top, 2 on bottom). The motorboard on the existing cabinet has 12 holes from where the previous speaker was mounted (3 on each side and 3 on top/bottom). My only other issue would be with the concept of 'cluging' this thing. I want to keep it as standard as possible. This thing waw originally a CBR. I'm converting it to a CWO. IMO, that makes it more valuable, but it is a change from its original form. I really don't want to Frankenstein it, albeit would still be all Klipsch, but for a CW to be 'right', I think it should have the right components. Michael, you're probably right that it wouldn't sound very much different, but I would always know that it's not a true CW w/ true CW sound. It would bother me. I haven't checked w/ Klipsch parts yet, but I doubt that I can still purchase that flute. Anyone know? Thanks all...mitch