texican58

---------------- On 4/10/2005 3:01:56 PM colterphoto1 wrote: There you go Mitch. We'll all stay clear on that bid, looks good so far, the only other interested bidder is that guy from Spain. Are you building a pair or just a single Cornwall center channel? How did you get advice to buy 700 horns? Maybe Bob or someone here wanting to fix or build a center Heresy cabinet can take the 700 off your hands. I might be interested in the k55V's, as I'd like to double-up my LaScala Industrial Cabinets and am looking at buying the boxes from Cueman in Arizona. But I'll have to obtain all the parts at reasonable prices to make that project worthwhile! It's a sickness, isn't it? Thanks, Michael ---------------- Michael, I'm just building the one, but i screwed up and accidentally (brain-farted) bought the K55V out of a Heresy, so it had the K700 (metal) attached. I'll offer it on the forum to other interested parties prior to putting it on the 'bay'. I think I have $75 in it between purchase and shipping. I checked the driver w/ an Ohmeter tonight...10.1 ohms. Haven't tested it yet. Gotta do that prior to posting. As far as a sickness goes...I got it bad!!! seeya...mitch

---------------- On 4/10/2005 7:44:12 PM 3dzapper wrote: Mitch, I bought a "veneer router bit" and never had any luck with it. The trick I use is to hold my 1/8" thick carpenters square against the edge and trimming against it, then sanding the edge flush. This prevents splitting and the Exacto knife following the grain to where it should not go. Rick ---------------- Rick, Thank you so much for adding that tidbit. I was hoping that there was an easy way to trim the veneer without a knife, but it seems that it's the safest way to get a quality job. I'll abandon the router/cutter approach and go with the manual way. It may take a little bit more time, but I don't have to worry about slipping w/ a router. Great advice...thanx....mitch

---------------- On 3/29/2005 12:44:03 AM michael hurd wrote: Looks like great work so far, I know that you tried the wood filler, it just does't spread as nice? I recommended a premium lightweight bodyfiller, due to it's fast curing time, as well as being easier to sand. To make the corners square, keep checking as you sand with a square. If you are power sanding, take some time to block it by hand, before the venner stage. Using a long board sander, sand on a 30 degree ( roughly ) angle to the grain. ---------------- Took you advice w/ the block sander. Using an orbital, you can actually sand too deeply on the edges, creating a 'sunken' area on the sides (it happened to me). I built it back up to flush by adding more bondo and then block-sanded using 120 moving up to 220 for the final sanding. I have this baby ready now. Waiting on Walnut (2 fletches 9" wide x 117" long). I'll bookmatch it and hope for the best. The thing that scares me the most is trimming the overlapped veneer once I get to that point. I was hoping that a cutting bit on a router would do the job, but I'm not good w/ routers. I might have to use the traditional approach of an X-acto knife to do this work, but I can only hope that this turns out well. My last task will be building the base to match my other two, but that's not a biggie. I'll probably just paint the base a flat black. 117" of veneer will give me enough to do the top 16", two sides 36" + 36", and the bottom 16" (16+16+36+36 = 104"). There may not be enough left over to do the stands. Thanks for the input....mitch

---------------- On 4/9/2005 11:30:30 AM Budman wrote: Mitch, a set of them plus drivers is on ebay right now #5766037315 these don't come up to often ---------------- I'm currently the high-bidder on these. I just didn't want to spend that much $$ again fixing my mistake on what I bought in the first place....D'ohhh! Thanks all....mitch

Thanks, Daddy-Dee. Now, do you have one?...or know where I can get one? Mitch

Members... I need some help AGAIN, I purchased a squawker last week for my CW project (K55-V). The flute that came attached to it doesn't fit my CW cabinet cutout. It is the metal version and has "K-700" stamped on it. Even though the squawker drivers are the same for Heresys and CWs, etc., the FLUTE is NOT the same. Anyone have a spare flute that will fit Cornwalls? Please help. Mitch

Members... I need some help AGAIN, I purchased a squawker last week for my CW project (K55-V). The flute that came attached to it doesn't fit my CW cabinet cutout. It is the metal version and has "K-700" stamped on it. Even though the squawker drivers are the same for Heresys and CWs, etc., the FLUTE is NOT the same. Anyone have a spare flute that will fit Cornwalls? Please help. Mitch

---------------- On 4/8/2005 9:38:11 PM jwcullison wrote: I have started a lot of threads recently....so for those steaming right now...I'll apologize in advance. I just refinished some Corns with Black Acrylic latex with a foam roller and a foam brush. Cheap project and they look pretty good. However, I was slam dunked in the thread where I mentioned this. I deserved it. So here is my deal. I am still gonna use a foam roller and a foam brush. Sorry, not gonna change. I will do some sanding if needed. SO THE QUESTION: WHAT BLACK PAINT (LAQUER) AND PRIMER WOULD YOU USE? I WANT A "GLOSS FINISH"; NOT PIANO BLACK. Thanks jc ---------------- JC, I'm in the midst of doing the same thing (Cornwall project) and now some La Scalas. I've had great difficulty using fillers to prepare my cabinets for sanding. Apparently, if the base coat or primer coat is an oil-based paint, bondo won't stick and harden. It simply clumps together when trying to sand it. My experience (so far) has been to completely sand the whole cabinet after scraping and sanding all bondo and primer off. If you've messed up by using an oil-based primer (like me), use a stripper and scraper and get that crap off of the cabinet. Then, use some bondo (Auto-parts store ~ $5) and fill in the gouges/cracks/corners. ONce dried, sand it smooth, and then prime it with the right paint. I've decided that I want to go with a 'piano' lacquer gloss finish. The only luck that I've had so far is to go to an Auto-paint store to buy it. It will run you around $40/quart, but you'll need the right painting equipment to apply it. If you're stuck on rolling you're paint, you might be best served going with later primers and finishes (water-based). Personally, I'm going for a mirror shine on mine and I already have the equipment (paint guns/compressors/driers) to spray mine. Best of luck and keep us posted....hope this helped a little? Mitch

Sorry that it took me this long to respond to my OWN post and forum member comments/help. I simply forgot about this post. (IDIOT!!!) I've been reading the forum and learning more every day. The CWs are not loud unless I throw some power at them. On my Yammy, -15db is what I would consider loud. -10 is really loud. I've checked the connections (inside the cabinets) and phasing. Both are fine. Based on some recent topics, I've begun to question if my '78 CW x-overs are in need of a tune-up (old caps begin to act like resistors?). I would suppose that I could buy the 'oil can' caps and replace them myself pretty easily, but to make them more musical and 'full', I'm thinking of just buying new x-overs so that I can eliminate them as culprits. I do believe that if I ever find a tube amp to test them with, I will be able to determine much more than I know now re: Amps (SS vs. tube). Thanks for the responses. mitch

---------------- On 3/22/2005 10:57:30 PM BS Button wrote: This is starting to look good. Why did we round the corners again, before the wood bondo? ---------------- Actually, I didn't round the corners. They were already 'rounded' due to abuse. My issue was with squaring them up again... therefore, the need to bondo all edges and corners so that the veneering will lay flat without air holes/pockets and have a good surface to bond with. I'm ordering veneer today. This project will be updated with new pics soon. mitch

Interesting idea w/ the veneer cutouts. I went w/ the auto-bondo idea and it works wonderfully. It sands nicely and creates a good, rigid corner and edge. Meanwhile, I'm having one helluvatime trying to post these pix. I had no problem before but tonight i'm brain-dead. Can't make up my mind on the veneer. I did find some cherry (certainlywood.com) that would look good (16"w x 144" long), but that doesn'g give me enough left over to do the edges. My only other option is to buy 3 fletches of Walnut (matches my other CWs), but the 3rd fletch is strictly for the bottom and edges. I just don't want to waste that much veneer just to do the edges and bottom, so....I might just paint the bottom black and go w/ two fletches (9"w x 117" long). That will give me enough waste to do the edges.

Before and After... The before w/ lots of wood filler... (prior to me getting wise and going to bondo) And after using the bondo (Auto Parts store...$5)

Another one... note the small 'chip' on the edge of the corner... ...gotta go over that AGAIN!!! ARGGGGGGGGGGH!!!!

New pix

New pix

Thanks for the input Yaff. It sounds like going down that path may not be the right choice for what I'm trying to do. I'm pretty worried that if I get the RFs that I'm scouting now, my Yamaha RXV2400 will not be satisfactory (too sharp/piercing/etc). I want full sound at both low and high volumes, so I might be looking to upgrade to another amp, or scrap the Reference line and add the Legends (KLF20s or 30s). Thanks....mitch

Forum members, Please help a newbie out. Would someone kindly explain what a monoblock does vs. a standard SS amp? I have been shopping Audiogon for amps so that IF I get a set of RF7s, I could bi-amp them for some deep, killer bass at lower volumes. I'm embarrased to say that I don't really get how all this goes together when it comes to bi-amping and using multiple amps to drive speakers, so I need either a diagram or a good explanation of how I would put this system together. I believe that much of the power of an amp is dedicated to the 'low' end of a speaker, and by bi-amping or splitting the output to a speaker into two amps, I could increase the speakers' ability to be full-bodied at low volumes. Is it possible for one of you experienced audiphiles to explain to me in 'layman's' terms what a monoblock does for me? I might find that simply updating the crossovers (DeanG), I might be able to eliminate the monos and still get the type of performance I want without having to cluge/connect multiple amps together. My limited imagination has pictured a pre-amp (Yamaha 2400) feeding two separate amps (two monoblocks), each dedicated to either one woofer within a speaker or to the whole speaker itself. I may be waaaaaay off! If I did bi-amp using two monoblocks, what would I use for the midrange/highs for the other part of the speaker? Here's the real deal. I'm finishing my HT theater. I have RS35 rears, an RC3II center, and currently two Cornwalls as mains. I want to move my CWs to an audio room for me(Wife doesn't like the size and look) and install two RF5s or RF7s. I want the RFs to sound full and intense even at lower volume levels. (I know from reading that if I throw the serious wattage at them, they'll do well, but wifey won't let me do that when watching normal HT/TV). So, assuming I pick up these RFs, do I need multiple amps (monoblocks) for the RFs, or just a crossover to attain my objective? Am I expecting too much? (unrealistic) Lay it on this novice...and don't worry about hurtin' my feelings. I may be dumb right now, but I'm trying to get up to speed quickly. Mitch

---------------- On 3/22/2005 3:50:59 PM colterphoto1 wrote: Mitch, I just purchased a set of MINT (and I mean never out of the house) split Industrial LaScalas- the super nice ones in fibreglass/aluminum. You might poll the guys for the Yamaha/Reference system. The Heritage is much more forgiving and you might not like the combination. Just a thought. I personally love my Yammies, but many here do not care for them with Reference AT ALL! So be warned. Would like to see photos of your center channel carpentry. Did you stay true to Cornwall dimensions, or modify to fit your center space? I'm sending some components to Bob C. and will probably get some work done to most of my xovers. Michael ---------------- Yes, I stayed true to the dimensions of the CW. I'll be posting the updated photos later this week. I've done the work to fix the corners, gouges, etc. The next job is the veneering. I think I'll order it this week. It appears that I'm going to have to purchase 3 fletches of 9" x 117" Walnut because Certainlywood doesn't have anything wide or long enough to do CWs. I'm really struggling w/ buying that 3rd fletch simply to do the bottom of the cabinet. The other option is to simply paint the bottom a flat black (like the motorboard) and go with two fletches. Re: the amp. I'm already looking at amps to go with RF7s...if I go that route. The more I read about these RF7s, the more scared I get. Not only do you have to get the right amp for them, but you also have to spend lots of $$. It's bugging me. Kathy's post was probably the most illuminating to me. She's got RF7s, like others here, and the consensus is that you need the right amp to make these babies perform. As much as I like my 2400, I'm inclined to think that I'm going to have to go VERY HIGH END to get the RF7s to perform, especially in an HT system...AND I'll probably have to modify my x-overs too. That translates to big $$. The more I think about it, the more inclined I am to back off and just go for the KLFs. I'm on AudiogoN right now...looking. Mitch

Michael, I still love my Cornwalls. I just had a conversation last night re: getting rid of my CWs in favor of RFs. I ended that conversation quickly, stating that I'm keeping the CWs regardless. I'm just adding to my collection of Klipsch speakers. I'm still actively working on the CW center (it's almost ready for veneering). I'm moving the CWs upstairs into my audio room. I'll be looking for a nice tube amp to go with them eventually. For now, though, I'm finishing the HT system (downstairs) and I want some RFs to go w/ my Yammy, my RC3, and RS35s. That'll round out things nicely for HT (smaller footprint to appease the WAF), while I still have my CWs upstairs for me and me alone. Not to worry, the CWs are here to stay...unless I upgrade one of these days to Horns or Scalas. How's your project going? Mitch

Thanks for the replies. I went to the other threads and picked up lots of valuable information. For the most part, I'm indifferent on which one I buy. I'm looking for both RF5s, RF7s, KLF20s, or KLF30s. As Russ said, I don't think that I can go wrong w/ any of these choices. Mitch

Would someone direct me to a thread that illustrates a connection diagram or a clear explanation of how to connect an external amp just for bass? thx...mitch

Thanks for the link...i'm on it. ...and it appears that of the respondents, most endorsed the RF-7s. However, the overall tone of the thread was that the sound of a good Klipsch product is quite subjective. Seems everyone has his/her favorite, but everyone seems to be happy w/ both. Either way, I would venture a guess that both are quite fine. mitch

They 'smoke' Cornwalls? I know that La Scalas are sweet. But, being a CW fan, should I take offense? Not to worry...I won't. Good Luck and enjoy! mitch

Fellow Members, ...just looking for some input from members that have either owned both types or evaluated both the KLF-30s and the RF7s. When comparing RF-7s to KLF-30s, what's your preference? KLF-30 36Hz-20Khz 102db 1W/m 200Watts/800Watts Bass reflex via dual rear-mounted ports 3-way system K-79k Tweet, K-52 Squawker, (2)K-31k (12")Poly-Carbon Graphite, 102 lbs. RF-7 32Hz-20Khz 102db 1W/m 250Watts/1000Watts Bass reflex via dual rear-mounted ports 2-way system K-67DV Tweets, (2)K-1089-AV (10") Cerametallics, 90 lbs. I have a feeeling that both are sweet. Personally, I'm a Heritage lover, but these speakers get lots of respect also. mitch

Budman, I could've gotten 5. My issue was transporting the 4x8' sheet. I had the guy at Lowes simply slice this thing into 3 parts, knowing full well that when I got home, I'd be putting them on the table saw and 'exacting' them. But the math works....I could have gotten 5 out of it. Since I'm considering going w/ the 1/4" stuff, I think I will cut it so that 5 are possible. Thanks for noticing. mitch