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PrestonTom

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Posts posted by PrestonTom

  1. Philip,

    Before you get the stands, you might want to try a "mock up" stand first.

    If you raise the cabinets 24in off the floor, the bass response will be definitely compromised.

    I am not sure of the geometry you are dealing with but there are elevated risers (Factory or DIY). These will raise the cabinet just a few inches (modest effect on the bass) but nicely aim the high freq at the listener (about a 15 deg angle as I recall - don't quote me on the specific angle).

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  2. K-Horns from the early 80s still used AA crossovers (mine are 82s). By the 80s certainly the Mid range horns were composite (401s) and not metal (400s). I am not sure about the mid drivers (K55s) mine are K55V with soldered connentions. Some (not all) of the earlier ones may have had some difficulty with a frequency notch around 9KHz

    Painting with a broad brush, the A & AA crossovers will sound more similar than dis-similar.

    If you have a chance to get K-Horns don't shy away from them if they are not from the 1970s. They will all sound good. Proper placement & room treatment will probably have more of an impact than the version of the crossover or which version of the mid driver & horn.

    Good luck,

    -Tom

  3. I never thought my Corns were that hot. Too much muddy bass and weak midrange.

    I think this opinion would be seriously in the minority.

    I believe that the general opinion around here is that the Cornwall is about the best Klipsch used bang for the buck you can get. It has a smooth, deep frequency response and is not terribly dependent on placement as many other cabinets. The only other Klipsch that come close in terms of sound value, are the ForteII .

    Michael

    I am not being argumentative and perhaps I am spoiled by having K-Horns in the house. However, the bass on the Cornwalls does have some problems and muddy is not a bad description. Remember this is on an absolute scale since I believe that Cornwalls are better than the vast majority of speakers available. Regarding the mid-range, I would not use the word "weak" but the mids are a bit "nasal' in their sound (listen to brass instruments).

    I am not down on Cornwalls - I own a pair. However, this poor guy is dealing with some room issues and some speaker issues and trying to sort them out. I will say it again, I love Klipsch cabinets; however, they are not perfect. Yes, the Cornwalls are a fantastic value (sound per dollar), but they are some problems.

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  4. Thanks Tom. I read a post from last year or so about the belle speaker were someone was building one in his garage. Was that you?

    Robert

    No it wasn't me.

    At one time I was thinking of building one as a center channel. But I was able to find a Cornwall instead. Now I have a pair of K-Horns with an additive center (Cornwall 2). It is not bad. Treating the room acoustics is my next task.

    Ultimately, I have two dreams. One is to convert my KCBR cabinets into "B" style and veneer them. The second is to build a two-way corner loaded horn cabinet (not unlike a Jubilee) with a circuit to time align the drivers and provide steep crossovers. Someday ....

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  5. forgive me if I am going off-topic.....

    The picture shows a ported cabinet. I understand the woofer is different in the Industial cabinets. I assumed this was for more power handling. Can I assume the T/S values also differ, thereby allowing a ported design. Let me ask the question another way: why aren't the regular Heresies ported? Or is the Woofer (or Freq Response) that different in the Industrial version?

    -Tom

  6. Jacob

    It is quite possible you have some issues with room acoustics. Prior to setting up the EQ, try moving the speakers relative to the rear and side walls. I bet this will change the the problems you have encountered. However, this is not fix, it will only shift the problems to a different frequency. If there is an appreciable difference, then you will need to investigate some room treatments. Using an EQ for this is of limited benefit.

    Good luck,

    -Tom

  7. If you are worried about extending the HF range from 17k to 20k, let me add some perspective. Between 17K and 20K there is not much music there, and if you are my age there is not much hearing there either.

    There certainly may be other reasons to make this swap however. If you have old alnicos they may need to be re-magnetized also the lower end looks better (although you may need to re-configure you crossover to capitalize on this).

    Good Luck,
    -Tom

  8. What else is on the circuit that feeds those outlets. If there is something with a large motor (i.e., compressor on a refrigerator etc) sharing that circuit, that could be causing the pops.

    Other possibilities include marginal tubes or a marginal cap on the power supply. Have you ruled out a pop on the CD itself (if it were, then it would happen consistently on re-play).

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  9. There is no such thing as "reforming" capacitors. This is total nonsense.

    JJK

    There is some ambiguity here. As I mentioned on the first page of the thread, a variac or series of bulbs should be used when bringing up an old tube amp. Others have agreed. I also mentioned the reason/mechanism was to reform the caps on the power supply. This is still true. I also mentioned that this should NOT be confused with voodoo about "reforming" caps when installing new ones on crossovers etc.

    I agree, on THAT application it is nonsense. However, you have been very negative about the need to slowly power on an old tube amp. Perhaps this is the source of confusion. I reiterate this because I think you are unintentionally giving some very bad advice.

    If you find an old tube amp in the attic, bring it up slowly. Several methods have been outlined. If you have not done this in the past and had no ill-effect, then consider yourself lucky.

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  10. Andy,

    I am intrigued by this discussion.

    Are you interested in taming the speakers or some room acoustics? If it is the latter problem then a EQ may be a limited solution (certainly some room treatments should be used along with it).

    In my case, it would be some tweaking on my K-Horns. I have always been leary about putting extra things in the circuit (one reason I use a passive pre-amp). However I have been intrigued about taking the digital out on the CD player This would eliminate an extra A to D conversion, which can sometimes be tricky to implement & get the levels for full resolution (number of bits). There are a number of stand alone signal processors that might accept a digital input and then implement the filter and finally use their D to A conversion. This may be more complicated then you are willing to deal with. But it is a thought....

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  11. Capt,

    I am sorry to hear about your loss. I cannot even imagine the headaches & heartaches that you are going through.

    I agree with Scooter about using K-Horns. However I suspect he must be a very smooth talker to be able to convince the better half that the K-Horn will actually be better WAF. Scooter, what is your secret?

    Good Luck with the re-building

    -Tom

  12. By all means use a variac!

    I certainly question why someone would negate that idea.

    For those who are unaware, large capacitors in the power supply may need to be "reformed" if they have not been used for a long time. By bringing up the voltage slowly (hence the variac or even light bulbs in series) the capacitors will "reform" and not send a large amount of higher frequency AC to the rest of the unit (the power supply rectifies then low pass filters the electrical from the outlet to give you DC power).

    A common mistake would be to remove a tube that is the rectifier (the rectifier may or may not be a tube). This would negate the procedure.

    If the amp is in any way suspect, certainly fuse the speaker or better yet place a load on the output with a radio shack power resistor (10 watt / 10 ohm & it costs about a dollar).

    Reforming the capacitor is not to be confused with the audiophile nonsense that has a similar name.

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  13. Gregory,

    Congrats on the house and the K-Horns.

    Certainly the false corners are going to help. Don't be put off by how they look. There are a number of variations on the design and with a bit of creativity you can get them to have a compatible look with the rest of the room.

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  14. Jacob,

    I currently run my K-Horns with a TFM 15. The combination is good (not necessarily great). If there is a "C" in the name, then the unit is bridgable (the early ones were not). I am surprised that they have 4 ch ones, that might be a misprint.

    There will be plenty of head room and they can drive loads that need current (have a low impedance). Although this should not be a problem for most Klipsch speakers. They are also a quiet amp. Frequently the VU meters are dead.

    At $180 this would be an average price, they sometimes sell for about 125-150.

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  15. The minimum amount of corner separation for Khorns is dictated by the 45 degree fixed angle of the top cabinet and where that intersects in the sound path to the listening position, that is the "sweet spot" for the listening position.

    The problem that that creates is that the listening position moves closer to the front the closer the corners get to each other, and you all know what horns sound like when you are too close to them! Something to be avoided, that's for sure...

    The geometry of the Khorn IS the main limiting factor. They can go on either short or long walls, there is no fixed rule. Only considerations....

    DM

    DM is certainly correct. This is a point that many folks ignore or avoid. You really do want to be on axis with the face of the K-Horn so that the cabinets are at a +/- 45 deg angle with the listener. It does make a difference. I appreciate the mods at "toeing out" the cabinet top in order to mimic this. In my case the set up would look to funky...

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  16. I am a little confused by the term "polish". Check the sticker on the back of the cabinet to get a hint of what the finish might be (Oil, Lacquer, or Raw).

    If you have an oil finish then BLO would be the right thing to use for re-oiling the cabinet, but please follow the directions since it take takes more than just a couple of minutes of effort. If you just want to get a bit of shine on the cabinet then furniture polish will suffice. However, please avoid any product with silicone!

    If the cabinets were Raw, they may have been refinished at one time. You can determine the finish by seeing what it will dissolve with (talk to someone knowlegible at the hardware store).

    Good Luck,

    -Tom

  17. Thanks Chris.

    You might be right about the tone Brilliance & Presence knobs. I remember there were 2 holes in the back and the wires came out of one of them. These in fact may have been holes for the knob shafts. Inwhich case it may have not been set up for a outboard cross over. At the time I did not have a flashlight handy to check the front openings. I don't recall seeing a slot in the back, but I was in a hurry.

    Thanks,

    -Tom

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