capo72
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Posts posted by capo72
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There is just over 2 feet of depth behind the equipment to move around. That rack on the right is going to serve as a hidden door to get behind it all. I put in a light back there and the ceiling is open so I can run wires through the floor joist to the open area behind the room. It's so hard having all that stuff just sitting in the boxes. I now know what IndyKlipschfan was going through. I can hardly wait!!!
Jeremy
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Here is a picture of my equipment itching to get back out of those boxes. My "current" revised goal is to be done in time for a Superbowl party. Hopefully with long holiday weekends coming up, I can make some real progress.
Jeremy
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Here is a picture of the wall unit i'm building. To the right is a media rack that will be hinged to the right wall and serve as a door to get behind the unit. To the left is my component rack with just the permanent shelves in place. There will be about 8 more adjustable shelves. In the middle is the tv stand for my 70" JVC. Underneath is the center channel angled up at 15 degrees. The pockets to either side of that are for my 2 Dayton Titanic 15" sealed front firing subs. The spaces in between will be filled with more shelves and cabinets. It is all oak veneered 3/4" plywood, and it will have solid oak trim on all face surfaces.
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There is just something special about a trombone on my Cornwalls.
Jeremy
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I'm somewhere around the 100 mark too. Got alot of work ahead of me
Jeremy
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I also really like the B&K reference 50. I don't have the series 2 but it doesn't bother me since I don't know what i'm missing. The only other Pre I have ran with my RF-7's was a JVC reciever into my B&K Reference 4430 amp. 200wpc X 3. The difference in clarity an dynamics was night and day. The JVC has been collecting dust ever since.
Jeremy
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I really like your center channel stand. Very well excecuted!
Jeremy
Thanks Jeremy,
I was pretty frustrated when I brought the new RC-7 home to find it was literally an 1/8 inch to tall to fit on the shelf where my RC-35 sat. And if I had found a way to jamb it in there... there would be no room to tilt it up toward the listener. My wife was not real excited about one of those TV mount arms hanging on the wall behind... not to mention my stud spacing would not have allowed exact center placement above the TV.
I started looking at the back of the Sony and saw there were some molded in little nubs on the back slope. I used those in my design as they actually carry the load of the back legs instead of just having the legs glued or double sticky taped to that slope. Then I contoured the bottom edge of the shelf over the bezel of the TV... giving me a VERY secure lock on things. The only way it will move is if the TV collapses!!! The shelf is Oak and is assembled with Glue and brads, clamped overnight and painted with a matt black spray.
I did something very similar over my 36" CRT for my 2-channel system. You can't see mine though. It just provides a flat surface, flush with the top of the tv, for my Kenwood crap to sit on. Mine is not as pretty as yours though. Good job!
Jeremy
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I really like your center channel stand. Very well excecuted!
Jeremy
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Here's my 77 Corns with grill cloth that I have not been able to figure out yet. My black RF-7's look like everyone else's so I won't post them.
Jeremy
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Does anyone have any opinions on this monster. I'm in the market for a good DVD-A, SACD player, and this thing looks awesome. My dealer sells it for $1500 which is more than i'm looking to spend. I just want to know if it's worth it. There is a dealer selling B-stock on ePay for $899. I'm just a little hesitant investing that much in a DVD player with HD-DVD around the corner. Please tell me what you think.
Jeremy
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Does anyone know how B&K's sr10.1 remote compares with the Harmony universals? I have the B&K but have not tried to program it yet. It looks like you need a degree in software engineering to program this thing. If the Harmony is a lot simpler. I might just go that route.
Jeremy
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I'm gonna throw in a vote for Linkin Park and Jay-Z Collision Course. If you like either or both it's really great music. I think they did a great job of seamlessly mashing up their tracks. Mike Shinoda is very talented.
Jeremy
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The 1st time I saw those, I was thinking "I didn't know they grow corn on the gulf coast!" I didn't think they were from a hurricane.
Jeremy
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Why don't you listen to them all, and buy the one that sounds best to you. Not necessarily the one that cost the most, or has the most prestiege. It sounds to me like you are trying to make up your mind based on numbers and not on what sounds good to you.
Jeremy
Just out of curiosity, do your RF-7's sound like they are a little soft in the midrange?
Compared to my Cornwalls, yes they do sound a little soft if the mids, but compared to most other "new" speakers i've listened to, no. I don't think there is anything at that price point that compares to the RF-7. They are strong and accurate top to bottom. This is my opinion and may not reflect the feelings of alot of others here, but this is what I here.
Jeremy
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Why don't you listen to them all, and buy the one that sounds best to you. Not necessarily the one that cost the most, or has the most prestiege. It sounds to me like you are trying to make up your mind based on numbers and not on what sounds good to you.
Jeremy
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Well that shows I don't know squat about making a mold!
What I would like explained is why it would cost so incredibly much. Especially if you have a metal K-600 or plastic K-601 from which to make the mold. I guess I just do not see exactly what is so hard and/or labor intensive about it.Are you thinking of casting new horns from a cast mold of the original part? An injection mold means squirting liquid plastic into a cavity the is machined from expensive tool steel. A mold for a horn would require lots of moving parts, called slides, that need to move out of the way, as the mold is opened, in order to remove the part. Think of the horn itself as airspace surrounded by steel. Hard to explain without seeing it. I will attach a picture of a simple mold core and cavity. It is a highly skilled profession (5 year apprenticeship in the U.S.) we make decent money for that skill, so the labor rate is high in the U.S. Also, steel prices have a huge impact on the final cost. Steel is in high demand these days due to demand issues forced by the rapidly increasing Gross Domestic Product of China. Basically they need more steel, so we all pay more for it. I hope I am making sense here.
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Are the windows mounted in the foundation, or in a framed wall. If there are mounted in your block wall, I wouldn't think vibration would be a problem. It's hard to tell from you pic.
Jeremy
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You should post this in the "Let's see your home theater" thread. Do a search on that topic to bump it back up to the top, and post this pic there. Looks pretty cool!
Jeremy
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I am a Tool & Die maker. I used to work for a mold building company, and givin my experience I can tell you that a mold to make that horn out of plastic would be in the area of $50K if it's built here in America. A Chinese mold would be cheaper, but lack the quality of American made. It would be a very difficult mold to produce with the compound curves involved. If the horn were to be die cast it would be even more expensive on account of the tighter tolerances required. Even temporary tooling for a low production run would be in the $25-30K range. Has anyone priced steel lately? Material alone would cost probably 10 times what it did 30 years ago.
Jeremy
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My "current revised" goal is to be done in time for a Superbowl party. That means getting the Bar done too! [
] I also want to get the extra bedroom done before the holidays. I'm just excited to be really moving forward now.Jeremy
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Woo Hoo! Drywall started today. It's been over a year of doing things myself. Now I've hired out the drywall and plastering. Should be done in a week. I'm excited to finally sell real progress. My wife is painting the walls in a couple weeks. Then I'll put the laminate wood floor down. After that i'm starting my wall unit for the home theater. Forget about hanging doors, or trim, or finishing the bedroom and bathroom. The theater comes first!. I was pulling outlets and switches at 11:00 pm last night and forgot to take pictures before the drywall, oops. I'll post some pics as things progress. Boxes full of unused audio/video equipment, and you guys, have been my motivation.
Jeremy
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I've had my RF-7's for a couple months now. I'm still working on the theater room (drywall starts today!). I've had a couple of them out and listening to them while I work on the room. At 1st I had one speaker crackling once in a while. I thought maybe it was a bad connection due to a makeshift set-up. I moved them a couple of times and reset-up. It started getting worse. All connections were good. I swapped channels thinking maybe it was the amp, Surely it can't be my new 7's. No help. I even switched amps. Still not right. After a while it sounded like the tweeter was cutting in and out, then it was mostley cut out. With the tweeter cutout most of the time, I noticed the woofers on the bad speaker moving quite a bit more than they should, even at low volume. Well now everything is boxed back up to move out of the way for drywall.
Here is my dillema. Do I take it apart myself to try and find the problem? I've taken many apart before, so It's not that I don't know how, or I'm incapable. It's that this is a brand new speaker with a 5 year warranty. Do I take it back and let some yahoo work on it, when it my just be a loose wire? I'm leaning toward looking into it myself, but I don't want to void the warranty if I take it apart. My wife thinks that for what I paid, I should just take it back. I've thought about calling tech support to see what I can do, but thought I would get some opinions here 1st. Let me know what you think.
Jeremy
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Also, is there anywhere good online that I can buy these speakers because there dosent seem to be anywhere local.
If you buy online, it will not be from an authorized dealer. Therefore you will not have the factory warranty.
I personally would not make the kind of investment you are talking about without auditioning the speakers for yourself. You may not like what someone else told you was good. Good luck with your quest. Lots of good info here.
Jeremy
] I also want to get the extra bedroom done before the holidays. I'm just excited to be really moving forward now.
Update pics of my home theater
in Architectural
Posted
Here is a link to the plastic cd holders that I have.
http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView.cfm?Cat_ID=198
There is going to be a shelf and cabinet to the left of my CD rack. I have foreseen the need to leave room for the CD rack to swing out. The shelf/cabinet size will be determined my the amount of room I need to swing the door. I'm hoping it's minimal enough that a piece of trim, attached to the front left edge of the Cd rack, will cover the gap when closed.
Indy, the shelf for the center has about 10" of open space behind it, and it's open to the back. I may need to mod that or other things in the future. I have been planning and drawing this wall unit, on my CAD at work, for months now. I figured I had thought of everything, but have already had to make changes as I go. I'll keep posting updates, and i'll see if I cad post a screen cap of my CAD drawing.
Jeremy