capo72

I ride a Specialized Roubaix with Sram eTap. I have always lusted after Italian builds with Campy grouppo's. I have Fostex drivers in my Oris 200 horns. They are currently not set up. I am looking to upgrade drivers (Tang Band maybe?) I used to run them with a simple passive crossover to my Cornwall's K33. The future plans are to build some Jubilee clone bass bins and run Xilica active crossover.

Nice work! There are lots of things for me to admire here, from a fellow DIY'er, Oris owner, and cyclist. I spy some fine Italian carbon hanging on the wall!

I personally would worry too much about the difference in the DCR in this case, or how much different it is than its rating. There are so many other variables to the end result of reproducing amplified sound. If you are doing any kind of equalizing then it is a moot point. Since you are a tube amp builder you are aware of all of the differences between channels within your amp, like capacitor tolerances, or tube output/ bias difference. My point is, If they are drivers that you want and local, I would go for it. All of the differences in tolerances in the signal chain can be compensated for in one way or another.

I just set up my daughters room with a bunch of these outlets because she got an Amazon Echo Dot for Christmas. She has the "smartest" room in my house! @wuzzzer It's working great Mark! Thanks for the good deal. Sorry for not getting back to you. With the holidays and all it was a couple weeks before I could spend time with it.

Wifi outlets from Amazon. They can be turned off and on with your phone manually or via a schedule. They also work with Alexia or google home assist.

Great Job! What adhesive method did you end up using?

Do you have a basement or crawl space? If so I would drill some holes at the baseboard and run those left speaker wires under the floor or a least get a rug.

Only use the Titebond II and iron on method if your veneer has a backing. If you use that method on raw veneer it will seep through any imperfections in the wood grain and it will never accept stain or oil like the wood will.

For perfect mitered veneer corners, you can slightly overlap the two perpendicular pieces at the joint. Then I use a speed square and align the 45° side to the corner. Use a razor to cut through both layers at the same time. Remove scrap and you will have a perfect joint.

Another vote for Titebond II and ironing method. Aligning edges and grain is easier with a dry adhesive method.

I thought this was clever! I thought it to be funny whether or not it was intentional on WMcD' part to suggest rugs to the OP who's user name is "The Dude". I'm glad this was not lost on everyone else!

I would happily pay $1500 for any decent condition within a couple hour drive. I've had my fair share of good deals, just frustrating when you see one you missed.

I'm angry I didn't see the post sooner! They were spoken for when I inquired. Good job Drewg!

Good Point! I assume these are the Ciare HW321. That seems to be a recently popular replacement for the Klipsch K-31K. I have been wondering is this particular driver would be suitable in a Jubilee clone cabinet. My understanding is the K-31-K was used in the early production Jubilees. I'm not sure what the current production Jubilee uses for woofers.

JBL made a slightly smaller version called the Metregon also. Bruce is correct, these were stand alone stereo cabinets design for people that wanted furniture as opposed to "speakers".